Ubon Ratchathani (อุบลราชธานี) is the capital of Ubon Ratchathani Province in the north-eastern Isaan region of Thailand. Often referred to as simply Ubon (อุบล), it should not be confused with Udon to the north.

Candle sculpture in Thung Si Muang Park

Understand

Ubon was founded on the northern bank of the Mun River by a group of Lao princes fleeing Vientiane in the late 1700's. They applied for King Taksin's protection, duly granted in 1779 along with the city's new name, meaning "Royal City of the Lotus". Modern-day Ubon was a U.S. air base during the Vietnam War and grew rapidly at the time, but little has happened since then. The town of Warin Chamrap, on the south bank of the river, is effectively a suburb of Ubon these days.

Get in

By plane

The grandly named Ubon Ratchathani International Airport (UBP) in reality serves only flights to Bangkok, but a longstanding Thai Airways monopoly was recently broken when low-cost competitor Air Asia added the city to its roster. The airport is at the northern edge of the city, almost within walking distance; take a 70-baht coupon taxi to any point in the city, or head out the parking gate to haggle with the waiting tuk-tuk drivers.

By bus

Buses from Bangkok, an 8-hour ride, arrive at the BKS station, or more commonly known as Morchit 2 or Morchit Mai, to the north of the city. Ubon is also less than 100 km away from the Lao border at Chong Mek / Pakse, although you'll have to transfer a number of times to get there by public transport.

By train

Daily trains connect with Bangkok and stop at all the southern Isaan provincial capitals (Si Saket, Surin, Buriram, and Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)). The station is to the south of the city in Warin Chamrap; buses 2 and 6 connect to the center.

Get around

A bus/songthaew network with 13 fixed lines operates around the city. Most lines are numbered and colour-coded; pick up a map at the Ubon TAT office.

Alternatively, there are plenty of tuk-tuks puttering and samlors pedaling around. As always, agree on a fare before you get in, and expect to pay 20-40 baht depending on distance and your haggling skills.

See

Chedi of Wat Nong Bua

Ubon is a little short on must-see sights, although there are a few mildly interesting temples.

• Thung Si Muang Park, at the center of town in front of City Hall, is a pleasant little park with several points of interest.

• A bright yellow elaborately carved candle sculpture, completed in 2000, standing 22 meters tall and dedicated to the King, showcases Isaan art styles and has become the symbol of the city. The candle is placed on a junk, with a garuda eagle at the bow and a naga serpent around it.

• A statue of Phra Phatumvoraratsuriyawang commemorates the tersely named founder of the town.

• A Monument of Merit has been erected by former World War II POWs to commemorate the kindness of the people of Ubon.

• Wat Nong Bua (off Chanyangkun Rd, past the BKS station) is a highly unusual large white angular chedi, said to be a copy of the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodh Gaya, India. Quite stunning in appearance, but the decorations seem rather modern and with reason - the structure was built only in 1957 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of Buddha's death.

• 'Wat Thung Si Muang' (Luang Rd) is primarily notable for its wooden scripture hall (hor trai), on stilts above a pond to stop ants and termites. The monastery itself was built in the reign of Rama III (1824-51) to house a replica of Buddha's footprint. The Ayutthaya-style bot is currently (2004) being repaired.

• Wat Pah Nanachat (International Forest Monastery) is a famous forest meditation temple with more than 20 foreign/western monks from all over the world. If you come before 08:00 AM you can join in the morning meal, and maybe speak to a monk afterwards. You can take a red song-thaew (public shuttle bus/truck) from Warin Chamrab to Wat Pah Nanachat for about 10 baht.

• Wat Nong Pah Pong is the forest monastery of the late venerable Ajahn Chah, one of the most famous meditation masters in Thailand in recent times. About 70 monks live here, and there is a small museum and a stupa (or chedi) with the relics of Ajahn Chah to visit. A few foreign monks live here, also.

Do

• Ubon's biggest event is the Candle Festival, held in early July on Khao Phansa day, which marks the beginning of the rainy season retreat. During three months, monks do not leave their temple, unless for an emergency, and lay people vow to abstain from taking alcohol as well as to refrain from any negative action. Huge wax candles are displayed in Thung Si Muang park, which are carried around town in a procession the next morning.

• A less well known illuminated boat procession is also held in October to mark the end of the rainy season (Ok Phansa).

Buy

There aren't any particularly noteworthy markets. American-style strip malls dot the main roads south and north of the city.

Eat & Drink

• Muen Thip (Phichit Rangsan Rd, east of intersection with Thepyothi) is a very popular two-storey place specializing in a Thai interpretation of Korean barbecue (neua yang Kaolee), grilled at your own table and dipped in fiery sauces. A plate of your meat of choice and a large tray of veggies, plenty for two, will set you back 90 baht. English menu available, not that you really need it.

• Big Chilli Chakkree Road. Maybe the best Mexican Restaurant in Thailand! Run by Wes. Atmosphere is plain, but the food is amazing.

Sleep

Most of Udom's hotels date to the 70s and look the part.

• Laithong Hotel Phichit Rangsan Road, tel. +66-45264271 - advertises itself with the tagline "In Ubon, Luxury Equals the Laithong Hotel" - which is probably true, if only for lack of competition. A little faded in decor, but kept in reasonably good shape, and features a pool, restaurant, nightclub and karaoke bar. Rooms 1400 baht and up.

• Tohsang Khongjian Resort 66 Moo 7, Baan Huay-Mak Tai, Khongjiam (over an hour away from the city); tel. +66-45351174 [1] A classy resort on the banks of the Mekong River near the Lao border. Rooms 2000 baht and up.

Contact

• The sleepy Ubon office of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (264/1 Khuan Thani Road) is worth a visit to pick up useful English maps of the town and nearby provinces. Basic English spoken. Open daily 08:30-16:30.

Get out

• The Khmer temple of Preah Vihear (Prasat Khao Phra Wihaan in Thai) is accessible as a day trip from Ubon.

• Cambodia

• Laos