Turkmenistan is a country in Central Asia with a population of about 5 million, and an area around half a million square km, a bit larger than California. It has a coast on the Caspian Sea, but is otherwise landlocked. Neighboring countries are Iran and Afghanistan to the South, and Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to the North. It is a relatively poor desert country. The traditional life of Turkmen is as nomadic shepherds, though some have been settled in towns for centuries. The country has oil which is being developed.
Regions The great Garagum (Kara-Kum) desert, occupies over 80% of the country in the West and center. The Eastern part is a less desolate plateau. The country shares a mountainous, or at least hilly, border with Iran. Cities
Historically, most of these towns were oases along the Silk Road. Other destinationsUnderstandNorth Korea may get all the press, but even Kim Jong-Il's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal Stalinist utopia set up by Turkmenistan's all-powerful President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov. He has adopted the title Turkmenbashi ("Father of Turkmen"), named the city of Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) after himself, and built a 15-meter tall golden statue that rotates to face the sun in the capital Ashgabat. The month of January is now known as Turkmenbashi, while the month of April and the word "bread" are now officially Gurbansoltan Eje, the name of Niyazov's mother. Decrees emanating from Niyazov's palace have banned, among other things, lip syncing, long hair, video games and golden tooth caps. Through it all, Serdar Saparmurat Turkmenbashi the Great (his official title) has remained modest: "I'm personally against seeing my pictures and statues in the streets - but it's what the people want", Niyazov said. PeopleThe people are predominantly Turkmen, also spelt Turkoman, by both ethnicity and language.
TerrainTurkmenistan is largely desert country with intensive agriculture in irrigated oases and huge gas (fifth largest reserves in the world) and oil resources. One-half of its irrigated land is planted in cotton, making it the world's tenth largest producer. Get inYou will need a visa to visit Turkmenistan, however recently it has been possible to get this upon arrival in Ashgabat. Make sure you check this information well beforehand, as the requirements vary for different nationalities. This procedure can be greatly helped by travelling with a tour group, which is arguably the best (and most hassle-free) way to visit Turkmenistan. According to available information, Turkmenistan has withdrawn from the Commonwealth of Independent States unified visa regime, so this potential visa-loophole is also closed now. Bear in mind that you might well have to be met by a guide, regardless of how you enter Turkmenistan. This can be particularly important, especially if your inward journey is delayed as is possible when entering across the Caspian Sea by boat. By planeTurkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from London and Birmingham, used predominantly by the British Sikh community as a transit point for further flight to India and Pakistan. Look out for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niyazov at the front of the cabin. Turkish Airways flies to Ashgabat from Instanbul. Lufthansa also flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat. By trainThere is a railway connection to Russia. By carBy busBy boatThere is a ferry between Baku (Azerbaijan) and Turkmenbashi about twice a week. Get aroundBy planeInternal flights are possible with Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple other destinations. Flights are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. Prices are around $5 US for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with a new fleet of Airbus 737s, purchased in 2001. Be aware that you might not be able to photograph freely in and around the airport, though this is not unheard of elsewhere. By boatThe Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for Turkmenistan. By carAt least in Ashgabat, like in much of the former Soviet Union, 'taxi's are mostly unofficial - and can be hailed by flagging down a car by the roadside. Haggle, and agree the destination and a fee in advance - a knowledge of Russian will definitely come in handy at this point. The usual sensible precautions apply here. If your instincts suggest that something might be not quite right, then it's best to go with your instincts. Roadblocks operate throughout the country, so this method is really best used only within city limits unless you are specifically looking for trouble. By trainIt is possible to travel by train between some of the major cities in Turkmenistan, but journeys are slow (up to 16 hours from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi) - so unless you have a specific interest, plane travel is the best way to get around the country. TalkAbout 72% of people speak Turkmen. The rest speak Russian (12%), Uzbek (9%), or other languages (7%). See also: Turkmen phrasebook BuyTurkoman rugs are famous, tending to rich reds with geometric patterns. Sometimes they are called Bokhara rugs (which is actually a mistake as Bukhara is a city in the neighbouring Uzbekistan - but could be a remaint of the era then all of this territory was part of the Bukhara Emirate). Turkoman designs are now often copied in India and Pakistan. A good current reference is Murray Eiland Carpets: A Complete Guide The classic book is "Tappiseries de l'Asie Centrale", in Russian and French by AA Bogolyubov, Tsarist governor of Turkmenistan, in 1905. It was a limited edition with hand-painted illustrations, now rare and extremely expensive. Why not add to your own despotic library by adding Turkmenbashi's self-penned 'Ruhnama' book, exploring his views on what it means to be a Turkmen. Surprisingly, this is a fairly sensible read. A translation, "Carpets of Central Asia", was published in Britain in the 60s. Even it is now hard to find and expensive. However, if you intend spending a lot on these carpets, it is definitely worth reading. Look for it in libraries. EatExpect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, 'plov', and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets. If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea - which is sometimes prepared in a 'tempura' style. DrinkLook out for a range of 'Turkmenbashi' labelled vodka, which can be washed down with the range of Russian 'Baltika' brand beer. Tea is excellent and readily available. Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled water. As in Russia, you might want to specify 'negazirovanie' (literally 'without gas' or 'still') if you do not like fizzy water. Georgian 'Borjomi' mineral water is avaiable in shops in Ashgabad. SleepHotel Nissa, Atabaeva Street, 18B, Tel: (+993-12) 22-10-25, Fax:(+993-12) 22-10-23 Apparently owned by family of Turkmenbashi, this is a four-star hotel with air conditioning, swimming pool, pool bar, sauna, Turkish sauna, gym, jacuzzi. This is a very good quality hotel in Ashgabat, about 10 minutes walk from the war memorial and book shop. The restaurant (Italian) has excellent food. Expect to come across lots of foreign workers, and women of dubious persuasion at the hotel bar. LearnWorkStay safeUnlike visiting DPR (North) Korea, it is possible to photograph relatively freely in Turkmenistan. However, you are best advised to excercize caution when photographing anyone in uniform or government buildings. Play it safe early on in your visit to give yourself an idea of what is acceptable. It should not be necessary for your guide to accompany you if you wish to leave your hotel, and go for a wander. Stay healthyPay a visit to 'Kow Ata' underground sulphur lake, found in the mountains an hour or so outside Ashgabad. It is possible to swim in the year-round warm, mineral rich, and medicinal waters. Expect a walk down increasingly slippery steps, and a corrugated shack to change in - unless you're handy with your towel. RespectDo not under any circumstances, critize the President, the country or its people. Despite the smiling face of the President as seen on the countless posters, the government runs a restrictive system, to the extent that every word of the President is obeyed. According to reports, he once expressed the opinion he liked a particular hairstyle in women - resulting in the adoption of said hairstyle by every woman and school girl the very next day. ContactKoryo Group, http://www.koryogroup.com/turkmenistan/ is a good place to start looking into your trip to Turkmenistan. Regent Holidays, http://www.regent-holidays.co.uk/classicturk.html is another established company operating tours to the region.
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