Tokyo

Shinjuku at night
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Shinjuku at night

Tōkyō (東京; [1]) is the capital of Japan. At over 12 million people in the official metropolitan area alone, Tokyo is the center of the most populated urban area in the world, Greater Tokyo (which has a population of 35 million people). Tokyo brings the most modern wonders of technology, commerce and architecture side by side with the old, and has something for everyone.


Contents

Districts

 Tokyo Districts:    Central      Old Tokyo(Shitamachi)      Suburbs      Western
Tokyo Districts:    Central      Old Tokyo(Shitamachi)      Suburbs      Western

Huge and varied in its geography, with over 2,000 square kilometers to explore, Tokyo prefecture (東京都 Tōkyō-to) spans not just the city, but rugged mountains to the west and subtropical islands to the south. This article concentrates on the 23 central wards (区 ku) near the bay, marked blue and green on the map, while the western cities (in gray) and the islands are covered in a separate article.

The geography of central Tokyo is defined by the JR Yamanote Line (see Get around). The center of Tokyo — the former area reserved for the Shogun and his samurai — lies within the loop, while the Edo-era downtown (下町 shitamachi) is to the extreme north and east. Sprawling around in all directions and blending seamlessly into Yokohama, Kawasaki and Chiba are Tokyo's suburbs.


Central Tokyo

  • Chiyoda, the seat of Japanese power that includes the Imperial Palace, the electronics mecca of Akihabara and the business center of Akasaka
  • Chuo, including the famed department stores of the Ginza and the fish markets of Tsukiji
  • Meguro, a residential area with a few nice parks and museums
  • Minato, the port district (at least in name) which includes the artificial island of Odaiba, the skyscrapers of Shiodome and the nightclub district of Roppongi
  • Shibuya, the fashionable shopping district which also encompasses the teenybopper haven of Harajuku (also home to the Meiji Shrine) and the nightlife of Ebisu
  • Shinjuku, home to luxury hotels, giant camera stores, futuristic skyscrapers, hundreds of shops and restaurants, and Kabukicho, Tokyo's wildest nightlife and red-light district
  • Shinagawa, a major train hub and business center


Old Tokyo (Shitamachi)

  • Sumida by the river of the same name, including Ryogoku, home of the Edo-Tokyo Museum and Tokyo's main sumo arena (Ryogoku Kokugikan).
  • Taito and Bunkyo, the heart of Old Tokyo featuring the temples of Asakusa and many museums of Ueno
  • Toshima including Ikebukuro, another giant train hub
  • Koto, between the two rivers Sumida and Arakawa, located on just the south of Sumida. It is famous for the former woodland in Kiba, and Kameido Tenjin the shrine worshiping Michizane Sugawara known as a father of study in Kameido.

Suburban wards

Understand

Over 400 years old, the city of Tokyo grew from the modest fishing village of Edo (江戸). The former seat of the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Imperial family moved to the city after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The metropolitan center of the country, Tokyo is the destination for business, education, modern culture, and government. (That's not to say that rivals such as Osaka won't dispute those claims.)

Language. It's easier than ever for English speakers to navigate their way around Tokyo without speaking any Japanese. Signs at subway and train stations include the station names in romaji (Romanized characters). There are also many districts of Tokyo (such as Roppongi) with establishments that cater specifically to gaijin (foreigners). Once you've decided to venture beyond the gaijin scene, however, the language barrier is more likely to become a problem, so it can be helpful to know some tips for ordering in restaurants, shopping in stores, and asking for directions. Learning katakana is not difficult and most words written with it can be understood by English speakers so it can be useful even for people with no Japanese vocabulary. If you plan on asking for directions to Tokyo destinations, it especially helps to carry the name of the destination written in Japanese characters.

Expenses. The cost of living in Tokyo is not as astronomical as it once was. Deflation and market pressures have helped to make costs in Tokyo comparable to most other large cities. Visitors from San Francisco, New York or London will not be at all surprised. Travelers should budget a similar amount of money for their stay in Tokyo as they would for any other great city in Europe or North America. Locals will know the bargains, but experienced cheapskates from anywhere in the world can get by with a little ingenuity.

Get in

Luggage delivery

Send your bags into town before you arrive—Tokyo is crowded. Lugging even a moderately sized suitcase through the subways and up stairs can be difficult, particularly during rush hour. Delivery services (takkyuubin) deliver luggage dependably and quickly to nearly any address. You can send almost any shape or size of luggage, even bicycles, from and to the airport. One exception: if you have bottles of alcohol in your luggage, you'll have to carry those yourself even if the airline allowed them in your in checked baggage.

At airports and major train stations, look for a sign that says "Baggage Delivery" or something similar. The most common company is called Kuroneko, which has an easy-to-spot black-on-yellow logo of a mother cat carrying her kitten. Other companies include Nittsu and Sagawa. Fees are based upon distance, expect to pay around ¥2000 within the greater Tokyo area. Usually, the delivery is performed the following day, in a specified time range.

This works the same way on departure. Most hotels and many convenience stores will take care of the pick-up for you, but you should check delivery times in advance, so that your luggage can arrive in time for your flight. You can pick up your luggage in the airport lobby. This makes getting to the airport a breeze. This service can also be used for intercity travel.

In Japan, all roads, rails, shipping lanes and planes lead to Tokyo.

By plane

Tokyo has two large airports: Narita for international flights, and Haneda for (mostly) domestic flights.

Narita Airport

Tokyo's main international gateway is Narita Airport (成田空港 NRT), located in the town of Narita nearly 70 kilometers northeast of Tokyo and covered in a separate article.

Transportation to and from Narita Airport is largely done by the Narita Express train (stops at Tokyo, Shinagawa, Yokohama, Shinjuku and several other locations), the Keisei Skyliner train (stops at Nippori and Ueno), and the Airport Limousine bus service, which stops at a variety of hotels in Tokyo.

Haneda Airport

Most domestic services, as well as the shuttle service to Seoul, fly into Haneda Airport (羽田空港 HND) in Ota. The easiest way from Haneda to the city is the Tokyo Monorail [2] to Hamamatsucho, from where you can connect to almost anywhere in Tokyo on the JR Yamanote line. The other, slightly cheaper alternative is the private Keikyu (京急) line to Shinagawa and Yokohama; Keikyu also runs trains to Haneda from the Toei Asakusa subway line.

On December 1st 2004, ANA and Air Do moved to the new Terminal 2, while JAL, Skymark and Skynet stay in Terminal 1. The Keikyu station is between the two, while the monorail now has separate stops at both terminals. Services to Seoul use the small separate International Terminal, which is connected to the main domestic terminals by a free shuttle bus that runs every 5 minutes.

Chōfu Airfield

Chōfu Airfield (調布飛行場 Chōfu hikōjō) serves only some turboprop flights to the Izu Islands south of Tokyo. The nearest railway station is Nishi-Chōfu on the Keiō Line, a 15-minute walk away. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Chofu or Mitaka stations.

By train

There is a frequent intercity Shinkansen service to and from Tokyo Station (東京駅 Tōkyō-eki) in Chiyoda, from where you can easily connect pretty much anywhere in the city on the JR Yamanote or Metro Marunouchi lines. For all northbound trains, you can also hop on at Ueno, while most (but not all) westbound trains stop at Shinagawa.

For non-Shinkansen services, Shibuya and Shinjuku stations offer local connections to the west. Ueno and Ikebukuro stations connect you to the northern suburbs and neighboring prefectures.

By car or thumb

While you can drive into the city, it's really not recommended as the city can be congested, signs may be confusing and parking fees are astronomical. Tokyo is essentially a gigantic (and fascinating) warren of narrow streets with no names which is best explored using a mixture of the excellent mass transit system and your feet.

Hitchhiking into Tokyo is pretty easy, but hitchhiking out is considerably more difficult. It's definitely possible for determined cheapskates though, see Hitchhiking in Japan for a detailed list of tested escape routes from the city.

By bus

Highway bus services link Tokyo to other cities, resort areas and the surrounding prefectures. There are JR and private bus companies. Bus service may be cheaper, but the train is probably more convenient. If you have a JR pass, then stick with the trains.

Long-distance buses use a number of terminals scattered throughout the city, but the main JR depot is at Tokyo Station's Yaesu-minamiguchi (八重洲南口) exit, while Keio and some other private companies use the Shinjuku Highway Bus Terminal (新宿高速バスターミナル), opposite Yodobashi Camera near the West Exit.

By boat

One of the great ports of the world, Tokyo also has domestic ferry services to other points in Japan. However, none of the regular international ferries to Japan call at Tokyo.

The main long-distance ferry terminal is Ariake Ferry Terminal, located on an artificial island adjacent to Odaiba in Tokyo Bay. The nearest station is Kokusai-Tenjijo-Seimon on the Yurikamome line, but it's still a bit of a hike. You can also take a direct bus from Shin-Kiba station on the Metro Yurakucho line. The main services from this terminal are:

  • Tokyo-Tomakomai (Hokkaido): Kawasaki Kinkai Kisen, 03-3528-0718. This ferry has no passenger facilities, so it can only be used if you have a car; fares for a car and driver start at ¥25,820.
  • Tokyo-Tokushima-Kitakyushu: Ocean Tokyu Ferry, 03-5148-0109. Tokyo-Kitakyushu passenger fares are ¥14,000 for second class, ¥26,600 for first class.

Ferries to the Izu and Ogasawara Islands leave from Takeshiba Terminal (竹芝客船ターミナル), adjacent to Takeshiba station on the Yurikamome line. Cruise liners tend to use the Harumi Terminal (晴海客船ターミナル), best accessible on bus 都05 from Tokyo stn Marunouchi South Exit or 東12 from Tokyo stn Yaesu exit. International ferries and cargo ferries that also take passengers can leave from other terminals too, enquire with your shipping company.

Get around

Subway lines with transfer stations labeled. The Yamanote surface line is in black.
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Subway lines with transfer stations labeled. The Yamanote surface line is in black.

By train and subway

Rail service within Tokyo is extensive, safe and efficient. It is important to bear in mind that several railway systems operate within Tokyo - JR East, the two subway networks, and various private lines - and different route maps show different systems.

If you are planning to travel by train in Tokyo, familiarize yourself with the JR Yamanote Line (山手線), which runs in a loop around central Tokyo; being inside the Yamanote loop is synonymous with being in the core of Tokyo. Almost all inter-regional JR lines and private lines start at a station on the Yamanote. JR's lines are color-coded, and the Yamanote is green. The JR Chuo (中央線, orange) and Sobu (総武線, yellow) lines run side-by-side, bisecting the Yamanote loop from Shinjuku on the west to Tokyo on the east. JR's other commuter lines, the Saikyo and Keihin-Tohoku, run off the rim of the Yamanote loop to the north and south. JR East has a good English information line, 050-2016-1603 or 03-3423-0111.

Tokyo has an extensive subway network with frequent trains. Many stations are served by both JR and the subway, however some places, for example Roppongi, are served only by the subway. Two companies operate the subway service. The Tokyo Metro runs nine lines: Ginza, Marunouchi, Hibiya, Tozai, Chiyoda, Yurakucho, Yurakucho New Line, Hanzomon and Namboku lines. Toei operates the Asakusa, Mita, Shinjuku, and Oedo lines. If you are using a prepaid Passnet card (see below) the subways are effectively a single network. However, if you are purchasing individual tickets, a change between Metro and Toei lines requires a special transfer ticket.

A number of private commuter lines radiate from the Yamanote loop far out into the outlying wards and suburbs, and almost all connect through to subway lines within the loop. The private lines are useful for day trips outside the city, and are slightly cheaper than JR.

This picture, taken on the JR Chuo Line, is an indication of how crowded trains in Tokyo can get during the rush hour.
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This picture, taken on the JR Chuo Line, is an indication of how crowded trains in Tokyo can get during the rush hour.

Fares and hours

All train stations are equipped with automated vending machines. Fares are based on distance, and the minimum fare (1-3 stations) ranges from ¥110-¥170 depending on the line. If you can't figure out how much it is to the destination, you can buy the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the end. Most vending machines will let you buy a single ticket that covers a transfer between JR, subway and private lines, all the way to your destination, but working out how to do this may be a challenge if you are not familiar with the system.

Prepaid fare cards are convenient and highly recommended because they allow you to ride trains without having to read the sometimes Japanese-only fare maps. The JR fare card system Suica can only be used on JR train lines; Passnet cards, on the other hand, can be used on every subway and train line except JR. Suica is a rechargeable contact-less smart card. The card itself requires a ¥500 deposit, which can be refunded at JR ticket offices. Any unused balance will be refunded for a ¥210 fee. (JR's IO-Card system has been discontinued.) Passnet cards come in denominations of ¥1,000, ¥3,000, and ¥5,000, and are inserted into the ticket gate when you enter and leave the station. These cards are disposable and non-refundable. Passnet cards sold by the Tokyo Metro company are also called SF Card and by the Toei Subway company are also called T-card. Prepaid fare cards do not give a discount.

Subway fares range from ¥160 to ¥310. Many of the private lines interoperate with the subways, which can occasionally make a single ride seem unreasonably expensive as you are in essence transferring to another line and fare system, even though you're still on the same train. It pays to check your route beforehand.

When you have multiple ways to get to your destination, as a general rule of thumb, Tokyo Metro lines are cheapest, Toei lines are most expensive, and JR lines fall somewhere in the middle (but are usually cheaper than Metro for short trips, i.e. no more than 4 stations).

Most train lines in Tokyo run from around 5:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. During peak hours they run about once every three minutes; even during off-peak hours it's less than ten minutes between trains. The only night when regular passenger services run overnight is for the New Year's Holiday on select lines.

If you are planning your trip in advance, or have internet access while traveling in Tokyo, the Tokyo Metro and Toei subway companies have a special service to help people get from A to B. The Tokyo Transfer Guide[3] will allow you to plan your trip based on time, cost, and transfers. This guide will provide information for all trains within the Tokyo area. Some major stations have terminals to help travellers.

For additional information for train travel in Japan generally, refer to the By rail section in the Japan article.

By taxi

Taxis are pricey, but may be a value for groups of three compared to the subway. Also, if you miss your last train, you may not have another choice.

Fares generally start at about ¥660 for the first kilometer and can add up rapidly. Do not count on your taxi driver speaking English--or knowing more than the best-known locations, though most taxis have GPS "car navi" systems installed. If possible, get a business card, or print out the address in Japanese of any specific places you wish to go. Also, note that taxis can get caught in traffic jams. The meter automatically runs a staggering 30% faster between 11pm and 5am. No tips are expected or given.

Taxi doors are operated by the driver and will open (and close) automatically. Don't open or close them yourself.

By bus

The few areas within Tokyo that aren't easily accessible by train are served by various bus companies. Buses have a fixed fare regardless of distance (typically ¥200), and fares are not transferable. Compared to the trains, the buses run much less frequently, carry fewer passengers, and are much slower. This makes them amenable to the elderly residents of Tokyo, but rather inconvenient for travelers, who will also have to deal with complicated routes and lack of information in English.

By ferry

The Tokyo Cruise Ship Company operates a series of Water Bus ferries along the Sumida River and in Tokyo Bay, connecting Asakusa, Hinode, Harumi and Odaiba. The ferries feature a recorded tour announced in English as well as Japanese and a trip on one makes for a relaxing, lesiurely way to see the waterfront areas of Tokyo. Of particular note is the super-futuristic Himiko ferry designed by anime and manga creator Leiji Matsumoto, which runs on the Asakusa-Odaiba Direct Line. You might want to arrive well before the departure time just in case tickets on the Himiko sell out!

See

Lanterns at Chingodo, Asakusa
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Lanterns at Chingodo, Asakusa

Tokyo has a vast array of sights, but the first items on the agenda of most visitors are the temples of Asakusa, the gardens of the Imperial Palace (in Chiyoda) and the Meiji Shrine (in Harajuku).

If you're looking for a viewing platform, the Tokyo Tower is the best known but a rather expensive choice. Another option is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building (in effect, Tokyo's City Hall) in Shinjuku. Its twin towers have viewing platforms that are absolutely free, and still offer a great view over Tokyo. Probably the best view would be from the World Trade Center next to JR Hamamatsucho station which, although not quite as high, is near Tokyo Tower and the waterfront making the view more interesting. A recent addition to the viewing platforms around Tokyo is Tokyo City View in Roppongi Hills, Roppongi -- admission is a steep ¥1500, but includes admission to the Mori Art Museum. Another good option especially at night is the Rainbow Bridge at Odaiba, whose pedestrian walkways are free.

The city is dotted with museums, large and small, which center on every possible interest from pens to antique clocks to traditional and modern arts. Many of the largest museums are clustered around Ueno. At ¥500 to ¥1,000 or more, entrance fees can add up quickly, but the GRUTT Pass [4] allows access to 49 of them for a flat ¥2000 fee. The pass can be purchased from any participating museum and is valid for two months.

Itineraries

Do

  • Take a boat ride on the Sumida River from Asakusa.
  • Enjoy a soak in a local "sento" or public bath. Or one of the onsen theme parks such as LaQua at the Tokyo Dome (Taito) or Oedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba.
  • Go to an amusement park such as Tokyo Disneyland or the more Japanese Sanrio Puroland (in Tama), home to more Hello Kittys than you can imagine.
  • Check out the hip and young crowd at Harajuku's Takeshita-Dori (Takeshita Street) or the more grown up Omotesando.
  • In the spring, take a boatride in Kichijoji's lovely Inogashira Park, and afterwards visit the Ghibli Studios Museum (well-known for their amazing movies, like Spirited Away, and Princess Mononoke), but you will need to buy tickets for these in advance at a Lawson convenience store.
  • Sing karaoke at any karaoke box in town!
  • Lose yourself in the neon jungle outside major train stations in the evenings. Shibuya and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or Piccadilly Circus look positively rural in comparison - it has to be seen to be believed.
  • Take the Yurikamome elevated train across the bay bridge from Shimbashi station to the bayside Odaiba district, and go on the giant ferris wheel - the largest in the world until recently.
  • Take a stroll through the Imperial Palace's East Gardens (open to the public daily at 9am, except Fridays).

Learn

The curious can study traditional culture such as tea ceremony, calligraphy, or martial arts such as Karate, Judo, Aikido and Kendo. There are also many language schools to help you work on your Japanese. Several universities in Tokyo cater to international students at the undergraduate or graduate level.

  • Keio University (慶應義塾大学 Keiō Gijuku Daigaku), [5]. Japan's top private university (unless you ask a Waseda student). Established in the samurai days of yore and has a stuffier rep than Waseda, with alumni including prime minister Junichiro Koizumi. Main campus in Mita.
  • Tokyo Institute of Technology (東京工業大学 Tōkyō Kōgyo Daigaku), [6]. Tokyo's top technical university. Main campus in Ookayama.
  • University of Tokyo (東京大学 Tōkyō Daigaku), [7]. Japan's uncontested number one university, especially strong in law, medicine and literature. Passing the entrance exams is fiendishly difficult if you're Japanese, but getting in as one of its 2000+ exchange students is easier. Five campuses scattered around town, but the original one is in Hongo.
  • Waseda University (早稲田大学 Waseda Daigaku), [8]. Japan's top private university (unless you ask a Keio student), famous as a den of artists and partiers. Main campus in Waseda.

Work

Teaching English (or to a lesser extent, other foreign languages) is perhaps the easiest way to work in Japan. Tokyo also offers more work options than other areas: everything from restaurant work to IT. Work permits can be hard to come by and will take time. Consult your local Japanese consulate/embassy as far in advance as possible.

Buy

If it is for sale anywhere in the world, you can probably also buy it in Tokyo — at a price. Items to look for include electronics, funky fashions, antique furniture and kimono, and specialty items like Hello Kitty goods, anime and comics, and their associated paraphernalia.

Remember that, as usual in Japan, credit cards are only accepted in large stores, so carry plenty of cash.

Cameras and electronics

Ever since Sony and Nikon became synonymous with high-tech quality, Tokyo has been a favored place for buying electronics and cameras. Though the lines have blurred since the PC revolution, each has its own territory and stores: Akihabara has the electronics stores and Shinjuku has the camera stores, and both now sell mostly computers. There are branches in other major areas, but each side stays out of the other's traditional territory and products.

Battery-powered small electronics and still cameras made for sale in Japan will work anywhere in the world, (though you might have to deal with an owner's manual in Japanese). However, if you are buying other electronics to take home, it's best to shop at the stores in Akihabara that specialize in "overseas" configurations. You can get PAL/NTSC, region-free DVD players, for example. Also, keep in mind that Japanese AC runs at 100 volts, so using "native" Japanese electronics outside Japan without a step-down transformer can be dangerous. Even the US standard 110V current is too much for many devices.

The stores advertising "duty free" only save you the 5% consumption tax and require you to have your passport with you to get the benefit. Still, it is worth taking into consideration if you are making a larger purchase.

The discount chains have better prices than small local retailers, but prices basically don't vary from one to the other. So if you know what you want, don't waste your time comparison shopping. Selection can vary, though, and one brand might be cheaper than a similar item at a different store. Bargaining for major items is expected, but the salespeople probably have prepared scripts for a week's worth of "this is normally as low as we can go, but hey, just for you..."

Most of the big chains have a "member's card" that gets you "points" which can be used as a discount on your next purchase, even if it's just a few minutes later. If you bring a card with your hotel address in Japanese, you can probably convince the sales person to give you a points card.

With the advent of the large-format electronics retailers (Bic Camera, Yodobashi Camera, Sofmap, Yamada Denki) there is less and less reason to fight the crowds and haggle in Akihabara. In fact the culture of Akihabara has been morphing from consumer electronics towards anime (often of a sexual nature.)

Fashion

Shibuya and neighboring Harajuku are the best-known shopping areas for funky, youthful clothes and accessories. Note that, almost without exception, clothes are sized for the petite Japanese frame.

Department stores and exclusive boutiques stock every fashion label imaginable, but for global labels prices in Tokyo are typically higher than anywhere else in the world. The famous Ginza and Ikebukuro's giant Seibu and Tobu department stores (the largest in the world) are good hunting grounds. Recently, Roppongi Hills has emerged as a popular area for high-end shopping, with many major global brands.

Handicrafts and souvenirs

Nakamise shopping arcade, Asakusa
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Nakamise shopping arcade, Asakusa

The easiest places to find Japanese-themed handicrafts and souvenirs are Harajuku's venerable Oriental Bazaar and the Nakamise arcade in Asakusa. Both also have wide selections of clothing in foreigner-friendly sizes, which can be very difficult to find elsewhere. Quality can be dubious though, especially in Nakamise, so for high-end items like kimonos, swords and antiques it is better to consult reputable specialist dealers.

Street markets

Bustling open-air bazaars in the Asian style are rare in Tokyo, except for Ueno's Ameyoko, a legacy of the postwar occupation. Yanaka Ginza in the Shitamachi Taito district, a very nice example of a neighborhood shopping street, makes for an interesting afternoon browse.

There are often small flea and antique markets in operation on the weekend at major (and minor) shrines in and around Tokyo.

Eat

Tokyo has more restaurants than you can possibly imagine, so see the main Japan guide for the types of food you will encounter and some popular chains. Menus are often posted outside, so you can check the prices. Some shops have the famous plastic food in their front windows. Don't hesitate to drag the waiting staff out to the front to point at what you want. Always carry cash. Many restaurants will not accept plastic.

In a city with literally tens of thousands of restaurants representing more or less every cuisine in the world, there aren't all that many uniquely Tokyo specialties, but the nigirizushi (fish pressed onto rice) known the world around simply as "sushi" in fact originates from Tokyo. Another is monja-yaki (もんじゃ焼き), a runny but tasty version of the Hiroshiman half-pancake, half-pizza dish okonomiyaki, which is originally from the Tsukishima area of Chuo.

  • Bento.com is the premier English-language restaurant and bar guide to Tokyo and Osaka.
  • vaou.com A Tokyo restaurant site where you can share your own reviews and restaurants.
  • Hot Pepper Available in various editions, by region, around Tokyo, this free magazine offers a guide to local restaurants in Japanese but provides pictures and maps to the restaurants. Some restaurants even offer coupons. Most restaurants within this magazine are on the mid-range to high end scale.

Budget

Go to the convenience store (conbini), there is one every second corner. Really, the options may surprise you. You can get rice balls (onigiri), bread-rolls, salads, prepared foods (like nikuman and oden), and drinks (both hot and cold) for ¥100-150, bento for around ¥500 and sandwiches for ¥250-350. Supermarkets (supaa) are usually cheaper and offer a wider choice, but more difficult to find. (Try Asakusa and the sidestreets of Ueno's Ameyoko market for local--not big chain--supermarkets.)

Also, look for bentō shops like Hokka-Hokka-Tei which sell take-out lunch boxes. They range in quality and cost, but most offer good, basic food at a reasonable price. This is what students and office workers often eat.

Noodle shops, curry shops, and bakeries are often the best option for people eating on the cheap. They are everywhere. The noodle bars on every corner are great for filling up and very cheap at ¥200-1000. You buy your meal ticket from a vending machine at the door with pictures of the dishes and hand it to the serving staff. The one question you will typically have to answer for the counterman is whether you want soba (smaller diameter) or udon (larger diameter) noodles.

Fast food is available just about everywhere, including many American chains like McDonald's, Wendy's, and KFC. But if you are visiting Japan from overseas, and wish to sample Japanese fast food, why not try MOS Burger, Freshness Burger, Lotteria, or First Kitchen. If you're looking for something more Japanese (not to mention more cost-effective and probably tastier), try one of the local fast food giants, Matsuya or Yoshinoya. For under ¥500, you can get a giant bowl of meat, rice, and vegetables, sometimes with egg thrown in for good measure.

Raw fish enthusiasts are urged to try kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi), where the prices are very reasonable. Prices are depending on the color of the plate, so be sure to check before they start to pile up.

Many of the larger train and subway stations have fast, cheap eateries. Around most stations, there will be ample choices of places to eat, including chain coffeeshops (which often serve sandwiches, baked goods, and pasta dishes), yakitori places, and even Italian restaurants.

Mid-range

By tradition the basement of almost any department store, including Mitsukoshi, Matsuzakaya, or Isetan, is devoted to the depachika (デパ地下), a huge array of small shops selling all kinds of prepared take-out food. You can assemble a delicious if slightly pricey picnic here — or, if you're feeling really cheap, just go around eating free samples! The very largest department stores are Tobu and Seibu in Ikebukuro, but Shibuya, Ginza and in fact any major Tokyo district will have their fair share. Shinjuku Station is home to several famous department stores, such as the Keio and Odakyu department stores. Many stores begin discounting their selections at about 7pm each night. Look for signs and stickers indicating specific yen value or percentage discounts. You will often see half-price stickers which read 半値 (hanne).

Splurge

There are countless very expensive restaurants in Tokyo, but one splurge is worthwhile for fans of sushi. The best sushi in town, if not the world, can be found in Tsukiji, fresh from the famous fish market. Figure on ¥3000 for a set meal. A sushi breakfast in Tsukiji, after exploring the fish market, is a great option for the jet-lagged traveler's first morning in Tokyo.

For upmarket Japanese eats, Ginza is guaranteed to burn a hole in your wallet, with Akasaka and Roppongi Hills close behind. You can limit the damage considerably by eating fixed lunch sets instead of dinner, as this is when restaurants cater to people paying their own meals instead of using the company expense account.

Drink

Propaganda, Roppongi
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Propaganda, Roppongi

Hit Roppongi for establishments which specialize in serving foreigners, although things can get a little rowdy in some gaijin bars. Visit Shibuya for cool nightclubs, dancing, and live music. Shimokitawaza is full of good bars and restaurants and is popular with students and 20/30-somethings. The Kabukicho red light/gay district in Shinjuku is worth a visit and has some good music in "live houses".

You will find good little bars and restaurants everywhere. You will also find that you are never far from a beer vending machine in Tokyo.

Most drinking is done in restaurants. Cheaper bar and grill type places are called izakaya (居酒屋). You can get all kinds of food and drink. The cheaper chain izakaya usually have picture menus, so ordering is simple. Some popular izakaya chains include Tsubohachi and Shirokiya.

If you want a Western-style bar that serves drinks but is not a restaurant, try any of the higher end hotels. This will cost you, though, and you may want to dress up a bit.

Sleep

There are thousands of hotels in the Tokyo area, ranging from cheap to very expensive. They are distributed throughout the city, with some of the high end and the low end almost everywhere. Many Western-style hotels, especially those affiliated with American hotel chains, have English-speaking staff.

Budget

Much of Tokyo's budget accommodation can be found in the Taito area, especially Asakusa and Ueno.There are a few hostels are around that area like The Tokyo Hostel ..[9] But if you are not afraid of being a little bit off-centered you may have a look to the surroundings : Yokohama, etc.

Capsule hotels are generally the cheapest option. They may be reluctant to play host to foreigners as there are quite a few rules of behavior which may be difficult to explain; see the Japan article for the full scoop. Most capsule hotels are men-only.

24-hour comic book library/internet cafes have become common around Tokyo. This is one of the cheapest ways to crash if you miss your last train and need to wait for the early morning transit service to get started. No bed, but you have a comfy chair and a PC and/or DVDs if you can't sleep. Later in the evening, karaoke boxes often offer discounted prices for the whole night, they usually have a couch you can sleep on.

Mid-range

Keep an eye out for what is called a business hotel. The rooms are usually tiny, but they are conveniently located near stations and rates start from around ¥6000. Staff may speak minimal English, but it's not too hard to figure out. These are the best options for solo travelers. Affordable chains found throughout Tokyo include Tokyu Stay [10], which offers free internet access and breakfast, and Sunroute [11].

Tokyo has some self-proclaimed ryokan (Japanese inns) that cater largely to foreign tourists, mostly concentrated around Ueno and Asakusa. While not as opulent as the real thing, they offer a sample of Japanese home life at affordable rates.

If you are traveling solo, you are out of luck, but Japan's infamous love hotels can be a reasonable (and interesting) option for couples in Tokyo. Shibuya's Love Hotel Hill offers the widest selection in the city. If you're really going to spend the night, be sure to check in for a "stay" rather than a "rest".

If you plan to stay more than one week, you can try weekly-mansion [12]. These are flats you can rent for short periods of time for reasonable prices. Rates are around 5000¥ per day for one or two people. However everything is done in Japanese and it helps greatly to know someone in Japan who can speak your language. Gaijin houses (guest houses for foreigners) can also offer good prices.

Splurge

You can spend a fortune on accommodation in Tokyo. Most of the high-end international chains are well represented. Particular concentrations of luxury hotels can be found in western Shinjuku (including the Park Hyatt Tokyo, featured in Lost in Translation), around Tokyo station (best here are the Seiyo Ginza and Four Seasons Maronouchi), and in Akasaka.

Contact

Good connections are available at Internet cafes everywhere. Expect to pay ¥400-¥500 per hour. "Gera Gera" is a popular chain. Paid WiFi service is also taking off in Tokyo with reasonable coverage - at a price. WiFi services are probably not convenient for those just visiting.

If you bring your own computer with a WLAN card, it is possible to find a free connection in a fast food outlet like McDonald's or Mos Burger. You also have a good chance to find a free connection in one of the numerous coffee shops. Just look for a wireless connection sign in the front window or computers within the shop.

Stay safe

Tokyo is probably one of the safest cities you will ever visit, and Japan in general is one of the safest places to visit in the world. Street crime is extremely rare, even late at night, and continues to decrease. However, "little crime" does not mean "no crime", and common sense should still be applied as anywhere in the world.

Take the usual precautions against pickpockets in crowded areas and trains. The red-light and nightlife districts can be a bit seedy, but is rarely dangerous. Note some small, back-street drinking establishments in red-light districts have been known to charge extortionate prices.

The police are a resource you can turn to for help. You will rarely find yourself far from one of the numerous local police boxes(koban), usually staffed by one or two police officers. Don't hesitate to go to the koban if you are lost, they have great local maps (in Japanese). Some police officers will also speak basic English. Give them a try. Also, if you carry travel insurance, report any thefts or lost items at the koban. They may have forms in English as well as Japanese.

Still in a jam? Call Tokyo English Life Line, tel. 03-5774-0992, daily 9 a.m.-11 p.m.

Dial 110 for police, 119 for fire and ambulance service.

For more information, the web-page of MPD (Metropolitan Police department, Polices in Tokyo area) is in English [13].

Like the rest of Japan, earthquakes give Tokyo a little shake from time to time. Most of them are totally harmless but be aware of safety procedures. Don't put heavy objects in high places, especially above your bed. If you're indoors and you feel a shake, extinguish gas burners and candles and watch above you for falling objects - shelter under a table or a doorway if necessary. If you're outdoors, stay away from brick walls, glass panels and vending machines, and beware of falling objects.

If you make it as far out as Izu Islands, note that visitors to Miyakejima Island are currently required to carry a gas mask, due to volcanic gases. Those in poor health are advised against travelling to the island.

Get out

From Tokyo, the entire surrounding Kanto region is your oyster. Particularly popular destinations nearby include:

  • Hakone — for hot springs and views of Mount Fuji
  • Kamakura — home to dozens of small temples and one Big Buddha
  • Nikko — grandiose shrine and burial site of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu
  • Tokyo Disney Resort — with Tokyo Disneyland (just like the ones everywhere else) and Tokyo DisneySea (an only-Japan theme park aimed at adults)
  • Yokohama — Japan's second-largest city

The Tokyo area also has some less-famous destinations that are easy day trips from central Tokyo:

  • Ashikaga — historical hometown of a famous shogun clan
  • Hachioji — a refreshing climb up Mt. Takao through a forest to a shrine and beer garden
  • Kawasaki — home to the Nihon Minka-En park with 24 ancient farmhouses (more interesting than it sounds), not to mention the shrine of the Lord Big Iron Penis
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