Sultan Mosque

Bugis and Kampong Glam are districts of Singapore, just to the east of the city center.

Understand

Map of Bugis and Kampong Glam

Bugis has a lurid past. Originally named after the bloodthirsty race of pirates who prowled in the Straits before the arrival of the British, for a long time the area was Singapore's equivalent of Patpong, a red-light district known for its bars and transvestite prostitutes or katies (the anglicized version of the Thai kathoey). However, in 1985 the area was redeveloped with a vengeance, turning it into a sanitized shopping experience for the whole family.

Neighboring Kampong Glam, also known by the name of its main thoroughfare Arab Street, was where Singapore's Arab traders settled in the founding days of the colony. But here too the original inhabitants fled in the 1920s as real-estate prices drove through the roof, and today the heart of Muslim Singapore beats in Geylang Serai on the East Coast.

So what's left then? A slice of modern Singapore at its most hyperactive: hundreds upon hundreds of shops and restaurants, several attractive promenades and a bazaar selling the cheapest T-shirts in town. Head here on a weekend to experience Singaporean consumerism at its finest.

Get in

The Bugis and Lavender MRT stations on the East-West line are the primary entry points into the district.

If exiting at Bugis, the key roads are Rochor Rd and Victoria St. Walk north on Victoria St until you spot the golden domes of the Sultan Mosque; turn left here for Arab St, or keep walking north for Lavender MRT. Alternatively, head west on Rochor Rd to reach Little India, within easy walking distance; or head south on Victoria St to return to Orchard Road.

Get around

The pedestrian sections of Albert St and Waterloo St make exploring the area on foot a pleasure. Getting to Kampong Glam from Bugis is a slightly longer hike though, hop on any northbound bus on Victoria Rd for a few stops to shortcut the distance.

See

Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho Temple

Except for the odd mosque or temple there are few attractions per se in Bugis. Do as the Singaporeans do and window-shop your way through, stopping for quick eats every now and then.

• Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, 178 Waterloo St. Dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. According to legend wishes made in here come true, which would explain why it's always packed. The procedure goes like this: enter, light some joss sticks, pray, then shake a container of cham si (bamboo sticks) until one falls out. Get a free matching slip with verses (also in English) explaining your fate, and maybe take it to one of the resident soothsayers for more explanation. Free.

• Malay Heritage Centre, 85 Sultan Gate, http://www.malayheritage.org.sg/. Mon-Sat 10 AM-6 PM. Set on the grounds of beautifully restored Istana Kampong Glam, the site looks gorgeous from the outside but, despite some half-hearted attempts at whiz-bang multimedia, the museum inside is rather disappointing. Free entry onto the grounds, $3 for the museum.

• Sultan Mosque, 3 Muscat St (off North Bridge Rd). 9 AM-1 PM, 2-4 PM daily. Also known as Masjid Sultan and the largest mosque in Singapore, the building is easily identified thanks to its golden domes, but there's not much to see inside. Note that shorts, short skirts or sleeveless T-shirts are not permissible attire, but you can borrow a cloak if needed. Free.

• Sri Krishnan, 152 Waterloo St. A Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Right next door to Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, and there's a steady stream of Chinese visitors hedging their bets by making offerings to the Hindu gods too. Free.

Buy

Bugis Junction

Bugis in particular is nothing but shopping these days!

• Parco Bugis Junction, 200 Victoria Street (MRT Bugis), http://www.parcobj.com.sg/. Singapore's teenage heaven, run by the folks behind Shibuya's Parco — and there's a distinct Japanese vibe in the area with plenty of Japanese-themed shops and restaurants, including the Seiyu department store, minimalist home decoration shop Muji (Seiyu 2F) and much more. At the center of the mall are the restored shophouses of Hylam and Malay Streets, covered with a roof for shopping in any weather; also check out the ever-surprising fountain in the middle of Bugis Square. For many tiny boutiques selling affordable local young fashion, check out the Zone on the third floor of the Junction.

Right across Victoria St, Bugis Street no longer has bars and transvestites, but it does have a bazaar that sells all sorts of vaguely touristy knick-knacks. This is the cheapest place in Singapore to buy T-shirts for the folks back home, although the quality of those $2 shirts is pretty much what you'd expect. If you haven't sampled tropical fruits yet, take a look at the fruit stalls at the other end.

• ButtOn Trendy Undies, bazaar, 2nd floor. Sells Singapore's funkiest collection of underwear. How about Hello Kitty panties or a Funky Year of the Monkey thong?

If you continue walking straight through Bugis Street, you'll reach the Albert Street and Waterloo Street pedestrian mall. Browse through shops offering Buddhist paraphernalia and take a peek at the two temples on Waterloo St. Keep going straight to reach electronics haven Sim Lim Square and beyond it Little India.

• Sin Chew Chinese Cultural Products Supermart, 192 Waterloo St. True to the name, this store packs in vast quantities of Buddhas and Confucian deities, glittering in gold, blinking lights and all shades of kitsch. Note the statue of Hotei the "Laughing Buddha" outside — there is a steady crowd trooping up to rub his big belly, hoping to catch some of his good luck.

Many of the stores on Arab Street specialize in batik and silk. Be prepared to bargain.

Eat

Bugis has a wide selection of restaurants catering to every taste, while the area near Arab Street specializes in halal (Muslim) food with quite a few Middle Eastern eateries too. Golden Mile Complex, on Beach Rd, is much favored by the local Thai population and consequently serves the cheapest and most authentic Thai food in town.

Budget

There is a large hawker centre at the intersection of Albert and Waterloo Sts, and plenty of others scattered through the area.

• Golden Mile Claypot Rice, Golden Mile Food Center #01-65 (Beach Road). A humongous claypot bowl packed with rice, chicken and thick dark sauce will cost you just $5, but prepare to wait while they make it. You may want to opt out of the super-salty dried fish if you're not previously familiar with the stuff though. $5.

• Sajis Indian Food, Blk 261 Waterloo St #01-29, Stall 12. Daily, morning-7 PM, closed last Monday of the month. Known for its Indian rojak, deep-fried goodies served with an amazing peanut dip. Halal. Around $3/plate.

• Zam Zam, 699 North Bridge Rd, ☎ +65-62987011. One of Singapore's best-known restaurants for all sorts of Muslim-Malay food. Try their legendary murtabak, a type of stuffed pancake eaten with curry, although the nasi briyani spiced rice is also pretty good. $5-.

Mid-range

• Ajisen, 200 Victoria Street, Parco Bugis Junction 01-01. Daily noon-10 PM. A Japanese chain offering reasonably authentic Japanese ramen noodles — definitely worth trying if all you've had before are the instant kind. $10/bowl.

• Sofra Turkish Café & Restaurant, 100 Beach Road #02-42/44 (Shaw Tower), ☎ +65-6291-1433, http://sofra.com.sg/. Somewhat localized but cheap and tasty Turkish treats. $10-20.

• Diandin Leluk, 5001 Beach Rd #01-67/68 (Golden Mile Complex). Authentic greasy spoon Thai food by Thais for Thais, so steer clear if you can't take the spicy stuff. The phad thai here is probably both the cheapest and the best in town. $5-10.

Drink

For a district once known by sailors as Boogie Street, modern-day Bugis is woefully short on dedicated places to drink, although you can of course get a cold beer at any hawker centre.

• Divine Society, 600 North Bridge Road (Parkview Square). Offering a collection of 3000 wine bottles stacked 12 meters high, winged waitresses are hoisted up on a rope to fetch the better stuff. Theoretically members only (at some S$3000 a year), in practice anybody in a suit gets in.

Perhaps a better (if non-alcoholic) option is to kick back on one of Arab Street's many cafes with an Arab-style waterpipe (shisha) and a glass of mint tea. Figure on S$10 for a pipeful.

• Cafe Le Caire, 39 Arab Street, ☎ +65-62920979, http://www.cafelecaire.com/. Daily 10 AM-5 AM. The Middle Eastern food here is somewhat localized, but comes in generous portions — $12 for the mezze set is easily enough for two — but the main draw is the shisha ($12) and the vast tea menu. In the evenings, it can get so crowded that they even set up tables on the pavement across the street! No one will chase you away until morning.

Sleep

A few hotels are scattered about Bugis and Kampong Glam, although backpackers might wish to head to neighboring Little India instead.

Budget

• Bugis Backpackers, 162B Rochor Road (within Bugis Village), http://www.bugisbackpackers.com/. Well located and run by a former backpacker. Dorm bed $20.

• New 7th Storey Hotel, 229 Rochor Road, ☎ +65-63370251, http://www.nsshotel.com. A backpacker hostel near Bugis, quite simple but nice and clean. Reservation is possible on their website with credit card. Dorm $17, rooms from $49.

• A Backpacker's Haven, 490 North Bridge Rd, ☎ +65-63388826, http://www.cozycornerguest.com. A/C. Internet. Dorms $10-$15, rooms $35-45.

Splurge

• InterContinental Singapore, 80 Middle Rd (MRT Bugis), ☎ +65-63387600, http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hd/sinhb. Swanky modern hotel done up in an attractive pseudo-colonial shophouse style, well located in Bugis Junction itself. $155-.

Contact

• Sun Byrd, #01-21 The Bencoolen, 180 Bencoolen St (opp Sim Lim). Broadband Internet for $1.20/30 minutes.