Sana'a is the capital of Yemen and generally the first destination for travellers to that country.

Understand

One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho, Damascus and Aleppo), Sana'a is believed to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".

Get in

By plane

Sana'a International Airport is the hub for Yemenia, Yemen's national airline. It is also served by other airlines, such as Emirates.

By car

The roads into Sana'a are covered. All major cities and provincial capitals are connected by roads which are generally covered.

By bus

Yemen has a few bus companies. Sanaa is connected by all major cities (aden, taiz, Marib, Sayun, etc) via bus.

Get around

Sana'a is a big city which, in common with many other developing-world capitals, is spreading in all directions at once. Visitors will almost certainly have to use taxis or hired cars to get around, as the street maps often leave much to be desired.

There are many "dobbats" (sp?) that run around the city. Basically they are mini-vans that serve as public buses. They have fixed routes and cost 15-30 riyals/ride.

See

The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive qamariya windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably one of the better souks in the Arabian Peninsula.

Do

Sana'a is a great place for people-watching. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to pull up a chair in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.

If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen: participate in a qat session. Qat is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. A bag will cost no more than 5 dollars, and you can get "inferior" product for a cheaper price. Side effects are lack of appeitite and insomnia.

Learn

The Yemen Language Center in Sana'a offers courses in Arabic and also helps with in-country travel arrangements.

Cheaper options are the Sanaa Institute of the Arabic Language (SIAL) and the Center for Arabic Language Studies (CALES), both of which are located in the Old City.

Work

Unless you have work lined up as an expat, work in Sana'a (and elsewhere in Yemen) will be very hard to come by. The majority of the locals sitting by the road will be waiting to be hired as manual labourers or domestic staff - in the latter role competing with guest workers from across the Red Sea. Those with good abilities in Arabic may be able to find work teaching English, however this will be informal and exceptionally temporary work.

Buy

Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately. When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, bear in mind that the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver working added. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or even ivory. While it is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are the real thing, a wooden or amber handle may be a better option. If a real jambiya seems too much, there are also pendants and brooches commonly available in the shape of the knife and its sheath.

Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will in fact be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.

Contrary to guidebooks such as Lonely Planet, bargaining is expected and worthwhile. If you are with local guides, a common approach is to have them ask for the "Yemeni price", however any bargaining on the part of the tourist will result in discounts. Bear in mind, too, that what may seem an absurdly cheap price for an item in Western terms will still be a great return for many locals.

Yemen's currency, the rial (riyal), is subject to high inflation. As a result, many prices (particularly those quoted to white-skinned visitors) will be given in American dollars or even Euros. Any of these three currencies will be accepted by the seller, so ask for the cost in whichever currency you are carrying at the time. Discounts for paying in one currency or the other are not high enough to warrant only paying in local money (for example), but luck may be on your side.

Eat

Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands and the like, as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.

Budget

Nearly all Yemeni food is budget. An average meal at a Sanaa restaurant will cost less than 2 dollars. Chicken is ubiquitous. A tuna steak served with rice costs 150-200 riyals.

Mid-range

Two words: Hadda Street. That is where the more "upscale" restaurants are located. If you want a clean environment with a larger range of food, this is where you should go.

Splurge

The Sheraton Hotel has decent, pricey western food (and beer!).

Drink

As in the rest of the country, the tap water should be avoided at all costs. Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of juices and softdrinks.

Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

• Mercure Sanaa Al Saeed
• Sheraton Sanaa Hotel

Splurge

Contact

Stay safe

Sana'a itself is relatively safe, in contrast to some other parts of Yemen.

Travellers should, however, take care particularly in the Old City as the streets are poorly signposted and unwary visitors will often find themselves in someone's courtyard. The city can also get very crowded, although pickpocketing is rare (possibly due to the weakness of the local currency).

Maps of Yemen tend to have details of the city, but (as with road maps in the country) they are unreliable. If at all possible, visitors should find themselves a local guide. Security escorts are probably unneccessary, although the situation can change rapidly.

Cope

Gunfire and car horns are common sounds in Sana'a. The former tends not to be a sign of violence, but rather of celebration. The latter can be that as well, but it can also have other meanings, including a desire to overtake another vehicle.

Get out

The awe-inspiring Imam's Palace is located roughly 40 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion.