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San Francisco [1] is a bustling cosmopolitan city in California, the centerpiece of the Bay Area, well-known for its diverse ethnic and political communities, hilly and picturesque terrain, and history of earthquakes. It is located on the tip of a peninsula by San Francisco Bay and the Pacific coast and has a population of around 750,000. It is 7 miles by 7 miles (11 km by 11 km) in size. The best times to visit are March through May and September and October because they are mostly fog free. But just in case, dress in layers. Nothing makes locals laugh more than a tourist wearing shorts, sandals and a brand-new parka.
Districts
UnderstandSan Francisco (don't ever call it "Frisco"), was founded in 1776 by the Spanish and has been a vibrant city ever since. Known today for its mixing of cultures, its liberal outlook, and its beautiful sights, it remains one of America's top tourist destinations. A good book on the tumultuous early history of San Francisco is Herbert Asbury ("Gangs of New York") "Barbary Coast", which details the years from the gold rush in 1849 to the earthquake in 1906. Get inBy planeThere are three airports in the San Francisco Bay Area:
Oakland and San Jose tend to offer more discount airline flights, while San Francisco Airport attracts more international flights and can be more convenient for those staying in the city. San Francisco and Oakland Airports are connected to downtown SF by the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) system, which costs about $5. Taxis are considerably more expensive: a taxi from SFO to the city can easily cost upwards of $40, and over $60 from OAK. Shared vans will cost around $14. Note that taxi and van prices from San Jose to San Francisco are significantly higher. Passengers arriving in SFO can walk (5 minutes from United's terminals) or take a free airport shuttle (AirTrain) to the BART station. From Oakland Airport, you must take a bus to the BART station. The cost of this bus is $2, and it takes 10-15 minutes. From Oakland Airport BART has direct trains to San Francisco, with a 5-15 minute frequency. BART trains head directly to downtown San Francisco, from where taxis and the MUNI can take travelers to their final destination. The San Jose airport is served by a free shuttle to both VTA Light Rail and Caltrain. Passengers arriving in San Jose can use Caltrain to reach San Francisco directly. Caltrain also links with the BART system at the Millbrae intermodal station. Be aware that public transportation within the South bay is not as developed as around San Francisco. Private pilots should consider Oakland (ICAO: KOAK) rather than SFO, as the separate general aviation field there is more accommodating to light aircraft. By trainAmtrak [5] serves the Bay Area with long-distance and intercity trains, but none of its trains actually enter San Francisco. Instead passengers must transfer at the Amtrak station at Emeryville in the East Bay to an Amtrak California [6] bus that crosses the Bay Bridge to San Francisco's Amtrak stop at 101 The Embarcadero (near the Ferry Building). Alternatively, riders approaching the Bay Area from the south may transfer to Caltrain [7] at San Jose's Diridon Station for a direct ride to Fourth and Townsend Streets in San Francisco. Amtrak can be contacted on +1 800 872-7245. Amtrak routes serving the Bay Area are:
Caltrain [12] operates a regional rail service from San Jose to its San Francisco terminal at Fourth and Townsend. The service also runs between San Jose and Gilroy during rush hour. Caltrain is very useful for travel between San Francisco and cities of the Peninsula, Silicon Valley or South Bay. On weekdays Caltrain provides two trains per hour for most of the day but run more during commute hours, including "Baby Bullet" limited services that cruise between San Francisco and San Jose in 57 minutes; on weekends and public holidays trains run hourly, except that after 10PM only one train runs, leaving at midnight. The 4th & Townsend terminal is served by Muni Metro (see 'Get around' below) giving connections to the rest of the city. Fares vary depending on how far you go. Tickets must be purchased before boarding the train from ticket vending machines at all stations or from ticket clerks at staffed stations. Tickets are checked on the trains and anyone found without a ticket is liable to a substantial fine. Caltrain can be contacted at +1 510 817-1717. Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) [13] provides a regional frequent rail service connecting much of the East Bay and Contra Costa County with San Francisco and the San Francisco Airport through the Transbay Tube. BART operates five routes, of which four reach San Francisco; there are three or four trains per hour on each route. In the East Bay and outer parts of San Francisco BART runs mostly on elevated track; in downtown San Francisco it runs in a subway under Market Street, and several underground stations provide easy access to downtown areas and simple transfers to Muni Metro, also running in a sub-Market subway. BART also meets Caltrain at Millbrae. Bicycles are allowed on BART except between the Embarcadero and Oakland City Center stations during commute hours. Fares vary depending on distance traveled. You should check the map at your departure station and buy a ticket for at least the correct amount. The minimum amount that a trip will cost is $1.40. You will need to insert your ticket into barriers when entering and exiting the system. If there is still value left on the ticket when you exit, the ticket will be returned to you and you can re-use it, increasing its value as necessary. BART can be contacted at +1 415 989-2278. By busGreyhound [14] has frequent intercity service from San Francisco. The station is inside the Transbay Transit Terminal, First and Mission streets. Several regional bus systems serve San Francisco from the immediate suburbs:
By boatIn many ways a boat is the ideal way to approach San Francisco. The city's spectacular site is best appreciated from the water, and from the deck of a boat the bay and its bridges and islands can be viewed as a whole. Cruise ships and private yachts are regular visitors to San Francisco, but the passenger ferries that regularly link other Bay Area cities to San Francisco are probably more practical for most visitors. Ferries run to San Francisco from Larkspur, Sausalito and Tiburon in Marin County, from Vallejo in Solano County and from Alameda and Oakland in the East Bay. In San Francisco the ferries dock at one or both of Fisherman's Wharf and the Ferry Building. For more information:
By carThere are four major highway approaches to San Francisco. 101 North comes up the eastern side of the SF peninsula and is the most direct route from the south, although it often backs up with traffic. I-280 North is a more scenic route into the city, but it is a little more out of the way than 101. I-80 approaches the city from from the east over the San Francisco Bay Bridge. From the north, take 101 South over the Golden Gate Bridge. Get aroundOn footWalking can be an enticing option to get from one neighborhood to another, so long as you are aware of where you are and keep your street smarts-- SFis a city of friendly neighborhoods but it is also "big city" --be aware of your surroundings that commonly accompany a city of SF's size. Streets which often go straight up and down hills may make driving difficult, but make for breathtaking views (as well as good exercise) for the pedestrian. There are many stairway walks scattered throughout the city when the streets are too steep. You can find maps that include hiking trails, bikeways, and the grade pitch of all streets marked in varying colors by how steep each segment is, that can help you orient to city walks suitable to your ability and temperament. Note that locals rarely use the designations "street" or "avenue," except in differentiating the numbered streets and avenues. Numbered roads designated "Street" are located south of Market in Downtown, Castro, Noe Valley, and Mission. Roads designated "Avenue" put you in the Richmond and Sunset districts. Highlight walks include:
By public transitSan Francisco's Municipal Railway or Muni runs a network of local transport that covers most areas of touristic interest well. An all day Muni Passport good on all Muni vehicles, including Cable Cars costs $11. Other passports and passes are available for longer periods: a 3-day pass costs $18, while a 7 day pass costs $24. The passports come in the form of scratch cards; be sure to scratch off the appropriate dates before using. Passports, as well as maps of the public transport system, can be purchased from the information booths at San Francisco airport, the Cable Car ticket booth at Market and Powell, and many other locations. Muni can be contacted by calling +1 415 673-6864. [24]. A credit card sized map of San Francisco, called PocketBay, and all its public transit (MUNI, BART, Caltrain) is also available at stores around the city or through their website [25]. 90 minutes of travel on the Muni system (Metro, F-line, Buses), except the Cable Cars costs $1.50 (since September 1st '05); be sure to get and keep a transfer ticket when you pay for your first ride; you may be asked to show your transfer ticket (or pass) by fare inspectors at any time. Cable Cars are $5 per one-way, single-vehicle ride, or $10 per day. You can not transfer to or from the bus or street cars, but you can transfer to another cable car. Before 7AM and after 5PM Seniors are $1. San Franciscans who use the cable cars for commuting to work can buy MUNI passes at a reduced cost. Components of the Muni are:
Other public transportation options include:
By bikeIf you have strong legs, bicycles can be a convenient form of transportation in San Francisco. The City is fairly small -- about 7 miles square (18 km²) -- and it's fairly quick to get from one end to the other. But much of the terrain is hilly and hard to pedal up. Do not be misled by maps depicting the city's strict, regular street grid, as even the straightest of San Francisco's streets might include steep hills or even staircases instead of a roadway. Downtown, SoMa, and the Sunset and Richmond districts are relatively flat. There are a number of bike paths and bike routes on city streets; the San Francisco Bike Coalition keeps a lot of information about them. By taxiTaxis in San Francisco are, for a large city, surprisingly inefficient and expensive, starting at $2.85 just for getting in the door. Except for taxi stations at or near downtown business hotels, or cruising just a few major arteries, taxis can be hard to find and hail -- and calling for a cab can mean a 30-45 minute wait, if the cab shows up at all. Now, if you're anywhere near Union Square and are holding shopping bags, just by standing on the curb and hailing passing cabs will usually get you one quite quickly. It is significantly easier to catch at taxi on weekdays, not including Friday night. If you are heading to the airport, your best bet is to call ahead with a specific pickup time to one of the many taxi companies (Yellow by far has the most cabs and they all accept credit card). By carPerpetually-clogged traffic, a confusing system of one-way streets, expensive parking, and a fleet of meter-maids who enforce parking laws with zeal can make driving in downtown extremely frustrating; visitors to the city should seriously consider alternatives to automobiles when possible. In addition traffic from the Golden Gate bridge uses surface streets either along CA-1, 19th Avenue or US-101 on Lombard and Van Ness. The most difficult problem with your car in San Francisco will be parking. Parking throughout the city is extremely scarce. Most parking garages, particularly downtown are also quite expensive. San Francisco has some of the strictest parking laws and enforcement in the country. For day trips into the city, consider a park-and-ride at a Peninsula Caltrain [26] station or at an East Bay BART [27] station. Finding your way aroundCross streets: As San Francisco streets are numbered (100 per block) from the beginning of the street, It is best when asking directions to ask for a cross street or neighborhood name. For instance, if you are at the intersection of Haight Street and Clayton Street, and you ask the driver of the 33 Stanyan bus "Does this bus go to Market Street?" it will get you a yes, but the bus won't get you downtown, it will get you south from that intersection to Market and 18th in the Castro district. Numbered streets and avenues: San Francisco has both numbered streets, in the Mission, the Castro, Noe Valley, and SoMa, and numbered avenues in the Sunset and the Richmond. Mixing numbered streets and avenues when asking directions may leave you miles from your destination. This can be confusing, as San Franciscans will not say "Street" or "Avenue" unless it is required to avoid ambiguity. Thus, "I live on Fifth Avenue" but "I live near Fifth and Geary." Street signs generally don't have "Street" or "Avenue" either; they just say "GEARY" or "MASONIC". See
San Francisco has much to see. For more detail see the district sections, often linked from this entry.
Golden Gate ParkOnce an area of sand dunes, Golden Gate Park is a roughly two-by-four mile long urban oasis, with windmills, bison, museums, and a carousel hidden among its charms. At 1,017 Acres, it is 174 acres larger than New York's Central Park, so unless you rent a bike [32], you'll want to plan which area you want to visit, especially along the East (Stanyan street) to West (the Ocean) axis. During the summer to October a free shuttle bus circulates. On Sundays only bicycles are allowed on most park roads. The number 5 bus runs along its North boundary, and the N streetcar two blocks south of its South boundary. The Conservatory of Flowers is at 2nd Avenue (4 small blocks West of Stanyan). To the South, are tennis Courts, a children's playground and its Carousel, and playing fields for Frisbee. At 8th Avenue is the Shakespeare Garden with roses and other flowers mentioned in his plays. The de Young Museum has recently reopened (see "Hide in a Museum"), although the Aquarium and Planetarium of the California Academy of Sciences, and the Music Concourse at 10th Avenue are currently being completely rebuilt. West of the de Young it is the Japanese Tea Garden at 12th Avenue, and South (at 9th Avenue) is the Strybing Arboretum. Boating on Stow Lake is at 18th Avenue. The Marx and Speedway meadows for picnicking and music festivals are near 30th. Ave. Horse riding, around the Polo field is available at 34th Avenue (currently - 2005 - closed to the public), model boating is at 35th Ave., fly-casting at 36th Avenue, and a Petanque bowling field is at 38th Ave. At 38th Avenue is also the Bison Meadow, where buffaloes roam. Golf and Archery is played at 47th Avenue. Finally, beyond 48th Avenue are the Dutch windmills that were used for Park irrigation in the past and the Beach Chalet for lunch, drinks, or dinner overlooking the Pacific Ocean and admiring brave surfers. Golden Gate BridgeHighway 101 N (from Park-Presidio or Lombard Street entrance), +1 415 921-5858 (Email: bridgecomments@goldengate.org) [33]. Open 24 hours, occasionally closed Su morning for events. $5 (toll driving south into San Francisco; free on foot or bike) The Golden Gate Bridge is one of the most famous bridges in the United States, and has been called one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. The bridge spans the Golden Gate, a strait between San Francisco and Marin County to the north, and is one of the major road routes into and out of the city. Vehicular traffic in both directions share a single deck; yellow pylons are used to allot lanes to one direction or the other depending on traffic conditions. Observation areas and parking lots are provided on both the north and south sides of the bridge; the best way to enjoy the bridge is to park and walk across, not least because you don't have to pay a toll. Note that winds are high and it can be cold and foggy; dress appropriately. Bikes can also be difficult to navigate in the high winds and narrow pathway. The masterwork of architect Joseph B. Strauss, whose statue graces the southern observation deck, the bridge took seven years to build, and was completed on May 27, 1937. Not actually golden in color -- a common misconception -- the bridge is painted a deep red-orange. Erroneous legend has it that the bridge is continuously painted, with crews starting at one end and, on getting to the other end, turning around and starting over again. In fact, the bridge is only painted once every few years, with some touchup done continuously. Alamo SquareAt Steiner and Hayes, it has the famous Painted Ladies row of Victorian houses on its east side, but many other pretty Victorians throughout its surroundings. The Hayes street Muni bus #21 goes along its south side. If you enjoy walking and don't mind modest grades you can get there by walking west from Hayes Valley or north from the Lower Haight. Fisherman's WharfFisherman's Wharf is both a "tourist trap" and a place to see amazing street entertainers, eat excellent seafood, watch sea lions, and go to the, Aquarium Marine Museums and exhibits. Working fishing boats still come into the small harbor at Jones and Jefferson, the endpoint of the Muni Historic F-streetcar. There are also small day and party boats available. The fresh breeze from the bay can provide a bracing setting. Civic CenterThe Civic Center has impressive Beaux Arts buildings and the celebrated Asian Art Museum, but the main reason for going there are its music and theater venues. On an historic note, the Charter for the United Nations was signed in the War Memorial Veteran's Building at the corner of Van Ness Avenue and McAllister Street. Nearby Hayes Valley along Hayes Street (West, past Van Ness Avenue) is a neighborhood known for its sophisticated yet funky shops, bars and restaurants. Moscone CenterThe Yerba Buena Gardens, above the Moscone Center, at Mission and Third streets provide a nice urban oasis. There is a carousel, a museum, and play places for kids, movie houses, various exhibit spaces, and the Museum of Modern Art across the street. A big garage at Mission between Fifth and Fourth streets makes it quite accessible for drivers. The Moscone Center itself houses major exhibits and conventions. Half of all Muni lines come with a few blocks of the area. The conference center itself is home to a number of major (especially IDG) expos that occur each year, including Apple Computer-related expos such as Macworld and Apple's WWDC, and LinuxWorld. ChinatownThe original Chinatown, centered around Grant Street from Bush to Columbus is part tourist trap, part an exhibit of local life. Good eating places remain, and the side streets especially have stores one wouldn't find in a mall. Stockton Street, the street paralleling Grant to to west is the main street where most locals do their shopping for groceries. Be sure to sample some of the Dim Sum and other specialties offered in the many bustling shops. However, many local Chinese prefer to eat and shop in the new Chinatowns located in other neighborhoods such as the Inner Richmond neighborhood or on Clement Street between 2nd and 12th Avenues. The Muni #1 (California) and #2 (Clement, does not run at night) buses get people from one Chinatown to the other. Chinatown is easily accessible from the downtown area via the 30 Stockton or 45 Union-Stockton Muni bus routes. Expect frequent crowding during peak hours. The Cable Cars also run fairly close to Chinatown as well. Lincoln ParkLincoln Park defines the extreme Western edge of San Francisco. It provides great views of the Marin Headlands, the Golden Gate Bridge from the Ocean side, and the Pacific Ocean itself. At the extreme western end the well known Cliff House provides both semi-casual and a more formal eating and drinking place. The #18 Muni bus goes from the center of the park via the Cliff House to Golden Gate Park, while the very frequent #38 Geary buses terminate in between. Drivers will want to take the El Camino del Mar Drive through the small Seacliff area on the northwest side to view some fancy mansions between Lincoln Park and the Presidio. DoCity PassA relatively cheap and easy way to cover many attractions of the city is a so-called "city pass". This is a passport to the most exciting tourist spots of the town and allows you to explore them by yourself whenever you like. For a fare of $49 (adults) and $39 (children 17 and under) you get the chance to visit the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), the Exploratorium, The Legion of Honor, the California Academy of Science (OR if you wish the Asian Art Museum instead) on 9 consecutive days starting with the use of your first ticket. The pass also includes a Bay Cruise and seven days of Cable Car and MUNI fares. Official CityPass SF website Harbor toursOne of the best ways to see San Francisco is from the waters of San Francisco Bay. There are many companies offering San Francisco harbor tours of varying durations and prices but they all provide marvelous views of the bay, the bridges, the island of Alcatraz and the city. Only specific island tours are allowed to land at Alcatraz, but the typical harbor tour will circle the island at a slow crawl, giving you plenty of opportunity to photograph the now-inactive prison from the water. Also consider taking a ferry from San Francisco across the bay to Tiburon, Sausalito, or Alameda. Same views for a fraction of the price. Most tours leave from docks between San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf and adjacent Pier 39. Tickets can be purchased at kiosks along the waterfront walk. Buy tickets a day or two in advance during the summer high season. Boats leave hourly starting around 10am and ending around 5pm. Multi-lingual guides are available on some tours. Prices range from $20-$40, more for sunset, dinner, or whale watching tours.
Companies offering tours include:
Performing Arts
See the Unauthorized Rolling Stones, a San Francisco Institution play [57], or local musical genius Rudy Colombini [58] play in one of the local clubs.
Museums
Other options
EatSan Francisco is a sensual, epicurean city with a vast array of restaurants. If money is no object, you can have an unparalleled dining experience at Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Masa or Boulevard. But less budget-busting restaurants exist for every type of cuisine. Vegetarians and vegans will find SF a paradise. Sushi is a local obsession, and though you can find a sushi bar on almost every street corner, the Richmond district has more than its fair share of excellent sushi chefs. San Francisco also has the largest Chinatown in North America, with many exceptional restaurants serving dim sum and other Chinese delicacies; this localized Chinese cuisine has its feet in Hong Kong and America, and is different from what many visitors are accustomed to. Fisherman's Wharf serves fresh seafood, especially clam chowder and crabs cooked to order. North Beach is the place to go for Italian food, and the Mission for Mexican restaurants (and Latin American cuisine of all sorts). San Francisco restaurants are also very corkage friendly. Average corkage fee appears to be in the $15 range, with some of the more pricey places charging $25-35. You should also visit Ghirardelli Square [67] to pick up some of their world-famous chocolate. Just a visit to the shop gets you a free piece!
Look also in the Districts section for more local recommendations. DrinkFor you travelers who like the grit and gritty of the city, go to Zeitgeist. It is a great place to split a pitcher of beer with some friends on a hot summer day. There is lots of outside seating; even better there is a shade tree to give you some relief from the sun. Ohh wait, we're talking about San Francisco. The tatooed bar tenders are friendly enough and will have information about staying in one of the rooms above the bar, if you have drank too much or if you believe in love at first sight. This place is cool, go there. They have great beers on tap. Everyone is friendly, even though the place looks like the home of Satan's Helper's. After the in-house food stops being served, you may see the tamale lady. Feeling buzzed and looking for late night Grub? Get a tamale. If you like soccer (football) and all things English, you should stop into the Lower Haight's Mad Dog In the Fog. Located at Haight and Fillmore, the pub quiz and bar food are good. Swill some pints and stay in the dark. Good for a entire days worth of drinking. It's also central to other "dive" bars on Haight. Toronado [78] in the lower haight has a many, many beers, crowding out the atmosphere. They allow you to bring in food from outside, and the block is chock-a-block with takeout (Rosemund for sausages, Memphis Minnie's for barbeque, others for other food). Thirsty Bear Brewing Company [79] is an upscale brewpub/restaurant and favorite expense-account spot for the trade show crowd from nearby Moscone Center. The cask-conditioned ale is satisfying, but the place can get crowded. SleepBudget
Mid-rangeDecide if you want to be in walking distance of your destinations, or are up to driving and parking. If you have a specific destination in mind, look also in the Districts sections.
Splurge
ContactStay safeAs with many other major cities in the world, San Francisco also has a share of problems. The distinct areas that one should be cautious in are around the southeast and north sections of the city, such as the Bayview-Hunters Point, Western Addition, Tenderloin (north-east of Civic Center), and Mission districts at night. The South of Market (SoMa) district used to be considered somewhat shady; however, recent development has led it to become a rather hip neighborhood with plenty of art galleries (such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, or SFMOMA) and clubs. San Francisco attracts a large homeless population, the largest per capita in America. Generally, if someone begs from you, you may either politely say that you do not have any change or just keep walking, and they will leave you alone. Pickpocketing can be expected, as with any other large city. Be especially cautious on crowded MUNI buses and during the busy holiday shopping season. CopeReligious services
St. Patrick, 756 Mission St. (between 3rd & 4th Streets, across from Yerba Buena gardens).[107] Sun: 07:30, 09:00, 10:30; 12:15, 17:15; Mon-Sat: 07:00, 08:00, 12:10 (except Wed: 12:00), 17:15 St. Boniface, 133 Golden Gate Ave. (10 min, direction west).[108] Sat: 17:15; Sun: 07:30, 9:00, 10:30 (span.), 12:15, 15:30 (vietn.); Mon-Sat: 07:30, 12:15
Notre Dame des Victoires, 566 Bush St.[109] Sat: 07:00, 17:15; Sun: 07:30, 9:00, 10:30 (french), 12:15, 17:30; Mon-Fri: 07:00, 12:10, 17:15 Old St. Mary's Cathedral, 660 California St./Grant Ave.[110] Sat: 12:05, 17:00; Sun: 08:30, 11:00; Mon-Fri: 07:30, 12:05 RespectIt is important to remember that San Francisco is the most open-minded and progressive big city in the country. With this open-mindedness comes a variety of languages, skin tones, sexual orientations, hair colors... it is all a part of the joy of San Francisco, and as a visitor it is something that you have to learn to accept and welcome. Smokers beware: as in the rest of California, smoking is illegal in bars, restaurants, and other public places. Bay Area people can be particularly vocal about your personal habits. Be aware of nonsmoking areas, and try to be courteous about smoking in other places. They will probably not bother you about standing and smoking outside a restaurant or bar. However, smoking is not dead in San Francisco —there are a small number of bars that take advantage of loopholes in the law, and cater to the short-of-breath. The Zeitgeist (a motorcycle-themed dive bar) on Valencia in the Mission District is one of the better known. The Eagle (a gay biker/leather-themed bar) and the Lone Star (a gay bear-themed bar) both feature large outdoor smoking patios. Get outFor laid-back, involved-with-your-fellow-travelers kind of travel (cooking is shared, the sleeper busload camps ensemble), check out the Green Tortoise. GT runs buses up to Seattle and down to Baja California; to Black Rock City, Yosemite National Park, a National Parks loop including the Tetons, Yellowstone and more, and a coast-to-coast run to New York. Bikes can be rented from around the northern waterfront (Pier 41/Fisherman's Wharf/Aquarium Park area) or near Golden Gate Park for trips to Marin County via the Golden Gate Bridge. Golden Gate Transit also serves the North Bay from San Francisco, and has bike racks on most buses. Nearby destinations suitable for day trips include:
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