Saipan is the largest of the Northern Mariana Islands.

Map of Saipan and Tinian

Cities

• Garapan is the main hotel area on Saipan, and includes a number of gambling establisments, as well as karaoke/hostess bars.

Other destinations

Understand

Saipan is 23 km (14 mi) long and 8 km (5 mi) wide. The best beaches and most populated areas are on the western and southern coasts, with the north and east being rugged and mountainous.

Many Chamorros on Saipan consider their culture more intact than on Guam, and the US Military has a much smaller presence on Saipan than on Guam. Therefore, comparisons between the two islands should take this into account. Furthermore, Chamorros on Saipan and throughout the CNMI still primarily speak Chamorro at home, while the same isn't true of Guam. Furthermore, while the differences between a commonwealth (as in the CNMI) and a territory (as in Guam) may not appear to be great (especially to a mainland US citizen), Saipan should not be referred to as a territory when speaking to a local. Finally, while the population of the CNMI, as on Guam, are US citizens and proud to be recognized as such, their independence is equally important.

Talk

While English is the official language, relatively few people on Saipan speak English as their first language. Nevertheless, nearly everybody does speak English, though with much more of an accent than on Guam. Most speak Chomorro at home, and the many migrant workers on Saipan come mostly from China and Taiwan. Furthermore, Korean and Japanese tourists make these languages fairly prevalent as well.

Get in

By plane

Saipan International Airport (SPN) is located in the southeast corner of the island. Direct flights exist between Saipan and Seoul, South Korea (via Korean Air and Asiana), as well as between Saipan and Guam, Tinian, and Rota. US Travellers require passports and must pass through customs, as Saipan and the CNMI are considered international locations.

Get around

There is little public transport as such, excluding shuttle buses running between larger towns.

By bus

There is no public bus service on Saipan, but on Saipan PDI and other companies run a shopping shuttle bus to and from the Duty Free mall (DFS Galleria) in Garapan. DFS also has their own free shuttle from most of the major hotels.

By taxi

Taxis on Saipan are expensive but plentiful, however the only place they are allowed to pick up or drop off passengers is at the airport or a hotel, and sometimes at DFS. There is also a large network of illegal taxis run by Chinese and Korean immigrants, that will take you anywhere for less than $5.00. For some Saipan residents this is their only means of transportation.

Because Saipan is so small, taxis from the airport to the main hotel area of Garapan can run upwards of $25-30, so plan ahead by arranging transportation through your hotel, which often charge $10 per person flat rate.

By car

Car rental is a good option for getting off the beaten track, as roads are generally quite good. Most car rental offices are either at the airport or at major tourist hotels; some offer a free pick up and drop off service.

By moped

Mopeds can be rented for about $20, though roads are very dark at night and bugs predominate after dusk. Therefore, consider mopeds for day-tripping only, as drivers tend not to give heed to mopeds or bicyclists throughout the CNMI or Guam.

See

Saipan, Guam, and many other islands of the Marianas were all important battle sites during WWII, and many Japanese bunkers and armaments still exist on these islands. These sites are managed by the National Park Service under the "War in the Pacific" Parks designation. Saipan is fairly small and by renting a car or moped, it is easy to drive around the island and take in the natural splendor, as well as visit a number of parks. Scuba diving is also popular, and the underwater world should definitely be seen.

Do

Scuba diving and snorkeling are deservedly the most popular activities here among western tourists, though gambling and karaoke/hostess bars are most popular among Korean businessmen, as well as some Japanese travellers. Garapan is coastally located, so other watersports abound as well. For scuba divers, the term "Fun Dive" is used for those who have already been certified and just want to recreationally dive, while "Taiken dive" is used to designate first-time divers that take classes on Saipan. The same is true for the rest of the CNMI and somewhat so for Guam.

The Saipan Hash House Harriers meet every Saturday at 3:30 p.m. at the Bank of Guam parking lot in Garapan to run, hike, jog, climb and otherwise trek through jungle, swamps, mountains, and other terrain. It's usually a great way to meet people and see a side of island life you might not catch otherwise.

Buy

Duty Free Galleria, in the center of Garapan, has the top name brands and fashions available for high prices (but supposedly lower rates than in Tokyo). Locally made crafts are available in some stores on the islands, but check first to make sure the items were not manufactured in the Philippines, Thailand, or Indonesia.

There is a tiny branch of Bestseller Books, packed full of the latest titles as well as magazines and travel guides, in the Joeten Susupe shopping center. Music And, further south on Beach Road, carries discs by local musicians. Blockbuster Video has a branch in the Town House shopping center.

Eat

Many nice bakeries exist in and around Garapan and local breakfast places are within walking distance of the main hotel area. Seafood is understandably very fresh.

Hard Rock Cafe, Tony Roma's, McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Subway, Church's Chicken, and the Filipino hamburger chain Jollibee are all represented on Saipan. Vegetarian options are possible to find as well. For self-catering options, try one of the Joeten supermarkets for fruits and vegetables, some locally grown.

• Coffee Care, Capitol Hill. Has excellent coffee and some very good homemade pasta dishes, sandwiches, soup, and desserts.

• Ebisuya, Susupe. Fresh bread, sandwiches, sushi, and homemade soup.

• Esco's Bakery, Capitol Hill. A good choice for pan tuba (a steamed bun made from rice flour and coconut wine) and other local delicacies.

• Wild Bill's Bar & Grill, Beach Rd, Garapan, [1]. Great omelets, hash browns, and pancakes.

• Winchell's. For donuts and coffee.

Drink

Karaoke/Hostess Bars abound in Garapan, as do Gambling Casinos, all of which allow ample drinking opportunities if one is so inclined.

Sleep

Most of Saipan's accommodation caters to package tourists. Rates are steep during Japanese holiday seasons but equally steeply discounted outside them. Internet bookings can regularly find rates below $60 per night, depending on the season.

Budget

• Gold Beach Hotel, Garapan. $30 per night if you can prove you're a local resident.

Mid-range

Splurge

• Saipan Diamond Hotel, Susupe, tel. (670) 234-5900, [2]. Massive hotel with all the facilities you'd expect set on a beautiful beach. The best thing to do here is to borrow a kayak (free), paddle out to the rusting tank hunks a few hundred meters offshore, tie up your boat and dive in to see the corals and fish lurking nearby. Rack rates from a ludicrous $195 per night.

Contact

Many hotels and restaurants on Saipan now offer free wireless internet access to customers that bring their own laptops, including Herman's Bakery in Garapan, Coffee Care, Wild Bill's in Garapan, Java Joe's in Dandan, and Dai-Ichi Hotel in Garapan.

• Information Technology Center, Joeten-Kiyu Public Library, Susupe. The best place to get online on Saipan.

Get out

• Managaha Island. A small island sheltered in a lagoon, this is Saipan's best spot to snorkel. There are even some introductory scuba trails laid out in rope on the sea bed, which also make for great snorkeling sightseeing tours.