Prague (Czech: Praha) [1] is the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic.

Prague Castle

The east bank of the Vltava river

Districts

Prague Castle seen from Petrin Hill

Prague has fifteen numbered districts: Praha 1 through to Praha 15. Praha 1 is the oldest part of the city, and has by far the densest number of attractions. It can be further subdivided into these quarters:

• Castle (Hradčany) - the Historic nexus of the city, and the highest point on the left bank

• Lesser Town (Malá Strana) - the settlement around the castle

• Old Town (Staré Město) - the nucleus of the right bank

• New Town (Nove Město) - the district adjacent to Old Town, established in the 14th century

• Jewish Town (Josefov) - the old Jewish ghetto

The outer areas of Prague can be divided as follows:

• North - Praha 7, Praha 8 and Praha 9

• East - Praha 3, Praha 10, Praha 14 and Praha 15

• South - Praha 2, Praha 4, Praha 11 and Praha 12

• West - Praha 5, Praha 6 and Praha 13

Understand

Regarded by many as one of Europe's most charming and beautiful cities, Prague has become the most popular travel destination in Central Europe along with Budapest and Vienna. Millions of tourists visit the city every year.

Prague was founded in the later 9th century, and soon became the seat of Bohemian kings, some of whom ruled as emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. The city thrived under the rule of Charles IV, who ordered the building of the New Town in the 14th century - many of the city's most important attractions date back to that age. The city also went under Habsburg rule and became the capital of a province of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In 1918, after World War I, the city became the capital of Czechoslovakia. After 1989 many foreigners, especially young people, moved to Prague. In 1992, its historic centre was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 1993, Czechoslovakia split into two countries and Prague became capital city of the new Czech Republic.

The Vltava river runs through Prague, which is home to about 1.2 million people. The capital may be beautiful, but pollution often hovers over the city thanks to its location in the Vltava River basin.

Learning a little of the language may receive a smile or two (see the Czech Republic page for an introduction to basic Czech phrases).

Chaty

Many Praguers have a small cottage (which can range from a shack barely large enough for garden utensils to an elaborate, multi-storey dwelling) outside the city. There they can escape for some fresh air and country pursuits such as mushroom hunting and gardening. These cottages, called chatas, are treasured both as getaways and ongoing projects. Each reflects its owners' character, as most of them were built by unorthodox methods. There were no Home Depots under communism. Chata owners used the typically Czech "it's who you know" chain of supply to scrounge materials and services. This barter system worked extremely well, and still does today. Chaty (pl. of chata) are also sometimes used as primary residences by Czechs who rent out their city-center apartments for enormous profit to foreigners who can afford to pay inflated rent.

Local foreign language newspapers

• Prague Daily Monitor (in English)
• Prague Post (weekly, in English)
• ABC Prague (in English)

Get in

By plane

The international airport Ruzyně (IATA: PRG) (phone +420 220 111 111, +420 296 661 111) is about 30 minutes northwest of Prague. ČSA (Czech Airlines) is the national carrier operating to many European destinations. There are also many cheap direct flights operated by easyJet, Ryanair and BMIbaby from UK, by SmartWings from Continental Europe & Turkey, Aer Lingus from Dublin, by SkyEurope from assorted destinations and by Sterling from Scandinavia. Starting on May 2nd, 2007, Delta Air Lines will start flights to Prague from Atlanta in the United States.

Getting into the city from the airport

The airport is located about 20 kilometers outside the city center. It generally takes 30 to 50 minutes to get there.

• By taxi: The most comfortable method to reach the city will cost 350 - 700 CZK with AAA. AAA [2] has an exclusive contract with Prague airport to have a fleet of taxis waiting. For a bargain, call one of their competitors such as Profi Taxi [3] or Halo Taxi [4]. There are also shuttle vans [5] who drop off multiple parties of individuals and are a bit cheaper than the taxis. Avoid cab drivers who solicit inside the terminal building - they will charge 50% to 100% more for the same journey.

• By bus: The easiest and cheapest way to get to the city is by bus. First, get some change in the local currency (use the ATM and then buy a chocolate). Buy a ticket from the vending machine, next to the bus stop, for 20 crowns. Take bus 119 to its terminus (Dejvicka) and go downstairs to the metro. Your ticket will continue to be valid in the metro. (Alternately, Bus no. 100 brings you to subway station Zličín (metro B).)

• Airport Express (bus operated by Czech Railroads): Buses leaving the airport every 30 minutes; the first one at 4:40 a.m., the last one at 9:10 p.m. Price is 45 CZK/person, tickets available from the driver. They will take you to the railway and subway station Nádraží Holešovice (metro C), which is also the railway station to take a train to Berlin and Vienna.

• By Cedaz bus: These buses operate from 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every half hour. They will take you past the subway station Dejvická (metro A) and into the city center to the Náměstí Republiky (metro B). Fares are about 90 CZK per person. The same company's minibuses run a shared-ride transfer service direct to your hotel, delivering groups of 1-4 passsengers for 480 CZK.

• Hotel shuttles: various companies run shuttle services to the hotel and back. These can be found in the airport arrival halls. One company in the halls is the Smart Shuttle run for Smart Wings airline. There are also private companies that provide transfers and will meet you in the arrivals hall, one of which is the American operated Prague Airport Shuttle.

By train

Prague has two international train stations: Hlavní nádraží (central station, abbreviated Praha hl.n., subway connection by metro C); and Praha Holešovice (Holešovice station, subway connection by metro C).

Eurocity trains connect Prague to Berlin, Vienna and Budapest. It is a very comfortable way of travel, but not as quick as in other countries - Eurocity has average speed about 120 kmph only, because Czech railroad network is not suitable for higher speeds. From Berlin, a train reaches Prague in 4:45 hours, from Wien (Vienna) in 4 1/2 hours and from Budapest in 6 1/2 hours. The trainline from Berlin to Prague passes through the Erzgebirge mountains, and for a couple of hours the passengers are treated to a series of beautiful alpine river valleys, surrounded by rocky escarpments and mountains.

Since 11 December 2005 fast trains Super City Pendolino operate between Ostrava (3 1/2 hours) , Olomouc (2 1/4 hours) and Prague (station Praha - Holešovice). Reservation is necessary on these trains. If you come to Prague by SC Pendolino, you can use Airport Express to Prague Airport without any additonal fee. These buses operate every 30 minutes (5:15 a.m. to 9:45 p.m.). Without SC Pendolino ticket you shall pay 45 CZK to the driver.

Train connection from western countries (France, England) is complicated because of an inconvenient layout of German railroads (they lead mainly from north to south, with no direct connections from east to west) - you have to change frequently, for example to Paris you have to change at least two or three times and it takes more than 13 hours.

It is important to note that travel within the Czech Republic is not included in the Eurailpass.

• Online train and bus timetable: http://jizdnirady.atlas.cz/ConnForm.asp?tt=X&cl=E5
• Map of Czech rail network: http://www.cdrail.cz/cp1250/sluzby/online/kjr_2005.gif

By car

Prague has highway connections from five major directions. Unfortunately, the highway network in the Czech Republic is quite incomplete and some highways are old and in poor condition. Thus, the highway connection from Prague to the border of the Czech Republic is available only in two directions - southeast and southwest. Southwestern highway (number D5, international E50) leads through Pilsen (Plzeň) to Germany. There is still a small incomplete part on the German side of the border, but it is only about 20 km. Not counting this small part, the D5 highway is connected to the German highway network. Riding from the state border to Prague takes about an hour and a half (only 160 km). Southeastern highway (number D1) is the Czech Republic's oldest and most used highway yet it is in good condition. It leads through Brno to Bratislava in Slovakia. It offers a good connection to Vienna, Budapest and all traffic from the east. You have to count on more than two hours as it is more than 250 km. To the northwest you can take highway D8 (E55), but it is not complete to the German border. It ends now at Lovosice (about 60 km from Prague). From northern Germany (Dresden, Berlin, Leipzig), you have to take state road E55, which is sometimes quite overcrowded. To the northeast you can take highway R10 (E65). It is strictly speaking a motorway, not a highway, but it has four lanes and differs little from a highway. It leads from Liberec through Turnov. I don't think it is an important access direction because there are no major cities in this direction (Zittau in Germany, some cities in Poland), but it offers a good connection to the Czech mountains Jizerské hory and Krkonoše (Riesengebirge) with the best Czech skiing resorts. To the east you can take D11 (E67), which is only 40 km long and is in poor condition. It leads to Poland.

Czech highways are under development (D8 and D11 are being prolonged, the city by-pass of Pilsen is nearly finished on D5) so things may get better. There are only seldom traffic jams on Czech highways, with the exception of D1 near Prague (and near Brno, too) - not counting road construction work.

When you get to Prague, things get worse. Prague suffers from heavy traffic and on working days the main streets are one big traffic jam. Moreover, Prague still doesn't have a complete highway outer circuit. It is a really good idea to use the P+R (park and ride) parking places, where you can park your car for a very small fee and use public transport. The P+Rs are situated near all highways and are well marked.

By bus

The main bus station for international busses in Prague is Florenc, Křižíkova (metro lines B and C). It is located east of the city center.

Eurolines connects Prague to major European cities, some of them depart from Nádraží Holešovice (metro C) but the majority leave from the main bus terminal at Florence (also metro C).

By boat

You can travel down the famous Vltava River (Moldau, in German), which inspired writers and composers such as Smetana and Dvorak.

Get around

Public transportation is very convenient in most of the areas visitors are likely to frequent. There are three main subway lines (Czech: metro), and numerous bus and tram (streetcar) lines. Purchase 75 minutes transfer for 20 CZK ticket at any tobacco shop or 24-hours, 3-days or 7-days tickets at ticket offices in some metro stations; date stamp this the first time you ride. Tickets are not checked upon boarding, but uniformed ticket inspectors sometimes make the rounds asking to see your ticket. Even though "riding black" seems easy in Prague, you should invest in the cheap ticket, for the simple reason that Prague's transportation works perfectly, and it functions on the honor system - help it stay that way. If you want to risk it, the fine is 500 CZK.

Public transport continues at night: Night trams or night buses (00:00 to 5:00 AM) usually come every 30 minutes. Every 15 minutes some night trams leave the central exchange station in the centre of Prague called Lazarská. You can also easily change tram lines here.

One valuable tourist purchase may be the Prague Card [6] which for 740Kc (less for children/students; as of July 2006) gives a four day travel card, a guidebook, free entry to more than 50 attractions, and other discounts. The card can be bought from various locations in Prague.

Prague Public Transit[7]

Try to avoid getting taxi on the street and if you have to, try to negotiate price in advance. Its advisable to call one of the major Prague Taxi services:

Profi Taxi [8] City Taxi [9] Halo Taxi [10] AAA Taxi [11]

Deceptive taxi drivers are another trap that can badly surprise a tourist. Mostly they charge more than they should. The municipal council has been trying to solve this problem since the Prague mayor dressed up as an Italian tourist and was repeatedly overcharged. The most frequent cases of cheating happen between the railway station or airport and hotel. If you must take a Taxi, and cannot call one directly or call your hotel for a referral, the best way to find a reputable one may be to look for a hotel and ask them to call a taxi.

The public transportation in Prague uses the honor system: after buying a ticket, it must then be validated (stamped) using the machines at the entrance to the metro, or inside trams and buses. If the ticket is not stamped, you will have to pay a fine if checked by ticket inspectors. These inspectors, now wearing uniforms, have mostly improved a great deal, and usually speak a fair amount of english and are fairly polite in their difficult jobs. One problem is false inspectors who most often ride the trams between "Malostranske Namesti" and Prague Castle - these deceivers can be detected by asking for the identity card which should be possessed by every inspector.

When you use public transport in Prague, keep in mind that it is a habit to let elderly people and mothers sit down.

See

• Charles Bridge
• The famed Astronomical Clock is located in Prague's Old Town.
• The Jewish ghetto's Old New Synagogue (Czech: Staronová synagoga) is Europe's oldest active synagoge. It's rumored to be the resting place of the famed Prague Golem.
• Don't miss the new town's Prague Dancing House, one of the most fascinating architectural expressions of Prague.

Do

Culture

There are many Opera and Black Light Theatre companies in Prague. There are several performance groups that cater to tourists. They aren't strictly to be avoided, but common sense should tell you that the opera advertised by costumed pamphleters is not going to be up to truly professional standards.

• AghaRTA Jazz Centrum [12]
• Black Light Theatre [13]
• Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club [14]

River cruises

Prague Boat

River cruises are both popular and varied, from one hour cruises to long evening cruises with dinner or music.

• Cruise Prague [15] offers a wide range of regular and private cruises
• EVD [16]
• JazzBoat [17] combines cruising and jazz concerts

Tours

There are many tour companies in Prague, offering a variety of tours including short walking tours, all day tours of the city, tours for large tourist groups, and private tours. Most tours start from the Old Town Square. Leaflets can be found in the airport, and the various tourist information centres in Prague.

• Authorized Guides of Prague Senovazne nam. 23 - A326, Praha 1, ph +420 776868770 [18] provide private sightseeing tours in various languages. They find a tour guide according to needs of the visitors. The language, time, meeting place and duration depend on the decision of the clients. As the tours are tailor-made, it is recommended to contact them at least one day in advance. They also arrange other related travel services such as transportation, restaurant bookings, cruise tickets etc.

• Citywalks [19] - private and group tours, either on foot or using other forms of transport ranging from riverboats to micro-scooters.

• Daily Walks of Prague [20]

• Fun in Prague [21] - options include "sport tours" such as water rafting, paint-balling and go-karting.

• Martin Tours [22] - regular tours, including walking, bus driven or on riverboats.

• Prague Private Guides [23]

• Prague Walking Tours Vinohradska 28, Praha 2. ph 222 516 064 or 777 070 784, fax 271 742 622 praguetravel@praguetravel.cz [24] - themed walking tours with an English speaking guide, all of which meet at their marked orange umbrella by the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town, where tickets can be bought on the spot.

• Premiant City Tour [25]

• Self-guided walking tour of Prague [26]

• Walks of Prague [27]

Eat

Lunch is traditionally the main meal. Czech cuisine is typically based around pork or beef with starchy side dishes such as dumplings or fries. Fish is not so popular, though these days it is widely available. Popular Czech desserts include fruit dumplings, crêpes or ice cream. Most restaurants become very crowded during lunch and dinner, so consider making a reservation or eating earlier than the locals.

The tip should be about 10 to 15% - in cheaper restaurants or pubs you can get away with rounding up the bill or leaving a few extra coins. Otherwise it's customary to leave at least 20Kč-40Kč or 1-2 Euros. Taxes are always included in the price by law. Many restaurants in heavily-touristed areas (along the river, or with views near the castle) will charge a cover or "kovert" in addition to your meal charge. If this is printed in the menu, you have no recourse. But a restaurant will often add this charge to your bill in a less up-front manner, sometimes after printing in the menu that there is no cover. Anything brought to your table will have a charge associated with it (bread, ketchup, etc.) If you are presented with a hand-scrawled bill at the end of the meal, it is suggested that you take a moment to clarify the charges with your server. This sort of questioning will usually shame the server into removing anything that was incorrectly added. It should be noted that some waiters are impolite especially to people from the eastern part of Europe. Pay no attention to this, and simply find another restaurant.

If you're on the look out for fast food, you won't be able to move without tripping over street vendors serving Czech style hot dogs and mulled wine in the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square in New Town. If you're after western-style fast food, the major chains also have a large presence in Wenceslas Square and the area immediately around it. Most beerhalls also serve light snacks or meals. Definitely try the hot dogs - they're far superior to the greasy, messy version you get in the West. Small, hollowed-out French baguettes are used for the bread, filled with mustard and ketchup, and then the frankfurter is inserted afterwards. This turns the bread into a convenient carry-case and means you don't get ketchup all over your hands. Make sure you get mustard, even if you don't normally like it - unfortunately the hot dogs are somewhat flavourless and need that extra bit of kick. Prices range from around 15 crowns for a small one to 45 crowns for the terrifying-looking 'gigant'. Note that size of hot dog relates to girth rather than length.

If you're looking for somewhere more formal, Old Town Square has several places with outside seating on the square. It's an excellent place to people watch.

• El Centro, Maltézské Náměstí 9, Praha 1, tel. +42 0257 533 343, bar-elcentro@volny.cz, [www.elcentro.cz]. Open every day 12PM-12AM (Last orders at 11PM). An excellent little restaurant located near the Charles Bridge, but tucked behind a couple of other buildings. It's a typical Spanish restaurant, has a very friendly atmosphere, good prices and isn't crowded. Also, it doesn't have any hidden charges such as service taxes which are common in Prague. English menus and takeout available. Mains 90Kč-350Kč.
• 'U Jednoho Pokoje, reservation@ujednohopokoje.cz, [28]. 'U Jednoho Pokoje' is Czech for 'At the one room' which is a summary of what this restaurant is. The restaurant was started by a French chef in a semi-abandoned apartment in the vicinity of I.P. Pavlova. With a little painting, scrubbing and mopping the room was fixed up. All of the furnishing for the restaurant (tables, chairs, etc.) are items that have been salvaged and restored and friends and supporters of U Jednoho Pokoje lent their art for the walls. Dinner is a set menu by appointment only and everything is done by the owner himself from greeting guests to cooking, pouring wine and serving the meal. No beer is available. The food is superb, and at 250kc for a three course meal it's not cheap by Prague standards but still very reasonable.
• Radost FX Bělehradská 120, Praha 2, +42 0603 193 711, vk@radostfx.cz [29]. One of the best restaurants in town. Near the IP Pavlova stop on the Red Metro line or get the 22/23 tram. Great vegetarian food, great prices. Radost is also a lounge and has a club in the basement, making it a favorite with expats. Mains around 160Kč-180Kč.
• Dahab Dlouha 33, Praha 1. Not far from the Namesti Republicki stop on the Yellow Metro line, Dahab is an Egyptian Restaurant/Tea House/Hookah bar. Lots of vegetarian options, good hookahs, and great tea.

Buy

Christmas market in the night-time

The streets around Old Town are full of gift shops geared towards tourists, selling Bohemian crystal, soccer shirts and other mass produced memorabilia. The throughway between Charles Bridge and the Old Town Square is particularly bad, turning off into one of the laneways you can find the exact same merchandise for half the price. If you are looking for some decent souvenirs, try to get off the beaten path. Street vendors can have some unexpected treasures and there are plenty in the Charles Bridge area. Prints of paintings and good quality photos are very popular, and a really good way to remember Prague.

Christmas market

In December the squares host Christmas Markets selling a mix of arts, craft, food, drink and Prague memorabilia. The markets are an attraction in their own right and a great place to pick up a more unique memento of the city.

Drink

Pubs abound throughout Prague, and indeed are an important part of local culture. A green sign hanging outside an establishment indicates one of the country's excellent local beers is to be had inside. Most pubs serve only a small selection of beers. Locals seldom pay more than 25Kč for a half liter glass, while tourist traps often charge 50Kč or more.

In Prague it is customary, especially at beer halls, to sit with a group of people if there are no free tables, so go ahead and ask if you can join.

• U Fleků, Křemencova 11 ,Praha 1, tel. +42 0602 660 290, [30]. Open every day 9AM-11PM. A restaurant that brews their own fantastic dark, sweet beer. It is the color of Coca-Cola with an alcohol content of 5.5%ABV, but its flavor is not overly strong. The servers will suggest a shot of local herb liquer Becherovka, but it won't be free. The ghoulash they serve comes with a piece of bread that has sausage and cheese baked into it. The atmosphere of this pub gets very rowdy as it is loaded with tourists from all over and oompah bands play regularly. It's a lot of fun with a group. Mains 185Kč-360Kč, U Fleků 13°lager 30Kč for 200ml and spirits around 79Kč.
• U Zlatého Tygra (The Golden Tiger Pub), Husova 17, Praha 1,[31]. Open every day 3PM-11PM. - If you aren't easily scared off by smoke so thick you can climb up it and mean-looking Czechs that look like they would rather shank you than share a table, then this place is a must-stop. It is almost always crowded to standing capacity but if you stop by just before closing during the week you can usually grab a table next to a local or knowledgable expat and have some great Pilsner Urquell for 26Kč a half liter, a price that is almost charitably low for the city center. There's also a simple menu of snacks and mains for around 35Kč-90Kč. Check the picture on the wall- that's President Bill Clinton drinking here.
• Reduta Jazz Club, Národní 20, Praha 1,[32].Reduta is a popular venue with a distinguished history - Bill Clinton visited here on his first trip to post-Communist Prague. Live Jazz every night from 9.30. Advance bookings from 3pm.
• AghaRTA Jazz Centrum, Železna 16, Praha 1, near the old town square, tel. +42 0222 211 275, info@agharta.cz, [33]. Open every day 7PM-1AM, live music from 9PM-12PM. AghaRTA is another well known jazz club, and organiser of the Prague Jazz Festival [34].
• Al Capone's Coctail Bar, Bartolomějská 3, Praha 1, tel. +42 0224 212 192, [35]. Open M-Th 5PM-2AM, F-Sa 6PM-3AM, Su 6PM-12PM. Al Capone's is a small and family like bar, located in the very centre, but with acceptable prices. Beer 25Kč-70Kč, cocktails 45Kč-80Kč.
• Duplex Vaclavske Nam 21, Praha 1, New Town, tel. +42 0224 232 319, info@duplex.cz, [36] Situated in Wenceslas Square, this club pays $5000 rent per day, and consequently charges an outrageous cover fee to teenage tourists who still think that Prague is the "wild" place it once was in the early 1990's. This club does a good job of keeping the more pleasant clubs in Prague free from tourists who come for Prague's more disreputable aspects.
• Karlovy lázně, Smetanovo nábřeží 198, Praha 1, tel. +42 0222 220 502, info@karlovylazne.cz, [37]. This self-styled "biggest music club in Central Europe", is right next to Charles Bridge, with 5 floors of clubs each featuring a different style of music. It is frequented by Czech teenagers and German high school students. There are security guards at the door who search entering patrons.
• N11 Music Club and Lounge, Národní 11, Praha 1, tel. +42 0222 075 705, info@n11.cz, [38]. Open Tu-Th 8PM-4AM, Fr-Sa 7PM-5AM, Su 8PM-4AM. Cocktails 80Kč-150Kč, beer 35Kč-90Kč. This club is named after the infamous "Nine Eleven". Run by natives of the USA, it is a well-run club whose rules are very strict.

• Solidni Nejistota is located at Pstrossova 21 (ph: 6-0500-0500) [39] is frequented by the Czech Yuppie set.

• Alcohol Bar is located at Dusni 6 (ph: 2-2481-1744) and has one of the largest selections of drinks in the city, they have an extensive coctail menu that's so big they have some copies in hardback. [40]

• Lucerna Music Bar (Vodickova 36) at Wenceslas Square is nice, but a little touristy; they play mostly 80s music (with the accompanying music video on the big screen).

• Nebe is located at Křemencova 10 (ph: +42 0224 930 343) and is a fun and popular club for expats in the heart of Prague. It is easiest to reach by taking trams 3, 9, 14, 24, or metro line B to the stop "Národní Třída." There is a dance floor, and on Thursdays stop by for their popular "Indie Music Night." Beer costs approximately 30 Kč, and cocktails 75-125 Kč.

Sleep

Prague has a wealth of accommodation options, many of them within walking distance of the town centre. Peak season generally runs from April to October and a major influx of visitors can be expected during New Year as well. Prices for accommodation can be up to twice as high in the peak season and reservations are advised. Otherwise, the main train station, Hlavní nádraží, has a accommodation booking service for hotels and hostels upstairs. Normally, tax and breakfast are included in the room rate. Check the district pages linked above for individual listings.

Budget

Even during peak season, dorm rooms in hostels close to the city centre can be had for around 350Kč per person per night. Prague has its share of rough and ready youth hostels with a party vibe, but there are many with a more relaxed atmosphere and some housed in beaufully restored buildings as fancy as any hotel. Many hostels also offer private rooms, with or without shared bathrooms, for much cheaper than a pension or hotel room. Around Hlavni Nadrazi, the main train station, there are many touts offering cheap accomodation. Many are Czech residents renting part of their apartment for extra cash. Prices don't vary much between them, but some may not be trustworthy so be cautious.

Old Prague Hostel in historical center Cheap, top location, cleanBenediktska 2, Prague 1, +420224829058

• Sokolska Hostel, Sokolska 52 (Metro C, I.P. Pavlova), ☎ +420 296189610, [41]. Located in Nove Mesto, 10 minutes tram ride from the centrum, this homy hostel has 6, 8 and 12 -beds private rooms. The atmosphere is cozy and friendly, the common space is not huge, and the advantage of this is that you meet lots of new people. Free tea, coffee and internet and clean linen. Parking is available for a small extra fee.

• Sir Toby's Hostel, Delnicka 24 (Metro C, Vltavska), ☎ +420 2 8387 0635, [42]. Located in Holesovice, 10 minutes tram ride from the centrum, this atmospheric hostel has both dorm and private rooms. Especially the rooms in the top floor are great with windows up to the sky. Staff here is extremely helpful and will happily give you advice on all your Prague needs.

Mid-range

Pensions and cheap hotels are easy to find throughout Praha 1, particularly in Old Town, New Town and the Jewish Quarter. For those looking for something a little different, a 'botel' (boat hotel) may be an appealing option. Most are moored on the south of the river in Praha 4 and 5.

You can explore a selection of hotels in the city centre of Prague on Prague one hotels [43] this is the most central Prague postcode and the site has a useful city map.

Another great solution is to rent an apartment. Many companies, including Old Town Apartments [44], Mary's Agency [45] and Accomm-Prague [46], offer high quality apartments in various locations around Prague. These are great for families, as a four person apartment will run you 1700Kč - 2800Kč and while it may not be cheaper than a hostel, it's a lot cosier. Be sure to check the map before making a reservation, as some apartments are not in the city center.

• Pension U Medvidku (literally: at the bear cubs), Na Perstyne 7, Praha 1, tel. +420 224 211 916, info@umedvidku.cz, [47]. U Medvidku is a great deal and only 5 minutes walk from the Town Square. The pension is built on the site of an old brewery that is now a Czech Budweiser (Budvar) restuarant and the pension building houses a brewing museum and shop. It is also connected to a smaller bar that is open until 3am. The rooms are clean and atmospheric. Ask for a room at the very top (#43 is a good pick) to avoid street/restaurant noise. Rates are seasonal but start from around 1550Kč/2300Kč/3100Kč per night for singles/doubles/triples off peak. Add an extra 10% if you want one of beautifully restored historical rooms.

Splurge

Prague is the business hub of the Czech Republic and hosts the Central European headquarters of many international companies, so there are many luxury hotels catering to business travellers.

• Hilton The Hilton Prague is a very new, very luxurious, very expensive, and very anonymous business hotel. It is similar to nicer Hiltons in any other city in the world, though it seems more luxurious, as if trying to compensate for its very high rates. Conference rates in the Spring of 2005 were 250-300€ per night. In comparison, clean, comfortable no-frills (except the ubiquitous Czech breakfast, consisting mostly of cold cut meats) doubles could be had for 50€, closer to the city center. It is an easy place to do business, hold conferences, speak English. While this has its convenience, it feels artificial.

• Ambassador Zlata Husa [48] 5 star Ambassador Zlata Husa hotel is Art Nuveau style building located on the famous Wenceslas Square directly in the historical center of Prague. Wenceslas Square today is the center of the city, and it is a marvelous combination of old architecture, modern buildings and business centers. In the area around the Hotel Ambassador - Zlata Husa there are several department stores, luxury shops and theatres, and a large number of private restaurants, cafes and clubs.

• The Four Seasons

• The Intercontinental

• The Aria

• The Three Storks

Contact

Many hostels and hotels offer free internet on shared computers or over a wireless network, so ask before you shell out extra at one of Prague's many internet cafes.

• Grial Internet Cafe, Belgická 31, Vinohrady, Prague 2, tel. +42 0222 516 033, info@grial.cz, [www.grial.cz]. The nearest metro station is Náměstí Míru on the A line. Open M-F 9AM-11PM, Sa-Su 11AM-11PM. Grial Cafe serves hot and cold drinks, including alcohol, and scanning, printing and CD/DVD burning are available. Internet access is 40Kč per hour.
• Internet Cafe Interlogic, Budějovická 13, Praha 4, tel. +42 0241 734 617, info@interlogic.cz, [49]. Open every day 10AM-10PM. 12Mbit/second internet connections, couches and drinks. 1Kč/min.
• Blue Mail, Konviktská 8, Praha 1, (Old Town), tel. +42 0222 521 279, info@bluemail.cz, [50]. Open M-F 10AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-11PM. The first five minutes is free and an hour of access will set you back 81Kč.

Stay safe

Prague is a very safe city by European or American standards. The risk of assault, murder, and other crimes are extremely low (in fact, more than half of all fights reported to Prague police in 2005 were involving people from the UK!); the most common crime in Prague by far is car theft: the outrageous prevalence of car theft / vandalism pushes up the crime statistics of Prague; crime statistics therefore show Prague to be much more dangerous that it really is.

Use of hard drugs is a criminal offense while the use of softer drugs such as marijuana or "magic" mushrooms (if fresh) are not punishable - and are in fact tolerated in all walks of life (however you may have to smoke your non-tobacco materials outside).

Be aware of teams of pickpockets that lurk outside metro stations, Charles Bridge, and the Old Town Square. They usually work in teams of three and are looking for lost or distracted tourists, the carrying of a backpack is especially interesting to them.

Due to the low incidence of violent crime, the threat of pickpockets has been played up as a great problem; some natives use the problem as an excuse to spread fear of Romany, (the underclass of the Czech Republic); however, common sense and basic precautions can assure anyone of being safe from pickpockets.

Be careful with taxi drivers, particularly from the train station. Taxis that are legally registered may still be mafia-run affairs that do their best to overcharge. It is illegal for a taxi driver to refuse you a reciept in Prague, so agree a price before putting youself, or your luggage, in the taxi. The risk of over-charging is greatly overplayed, just take the usual sensible precautions of only using taxi firms affiliated with the station or your hotel, or call a reputable company and wait. Finally, if presented with a wrong bill from a taxi driver, call the police on your mobile phone. Your driver will quickly change his tune!

The emergency phone number is 158.

Get out

Buses and trains are frequent and quite inexpensive and can get you to even the smallest village.

How to get out

All information for buses and trains is available on the web (in English and German) here [51]. Don't be intimidated about buying tickets even if you don't know the language, most bus and train terminal employees can speak a few phrases in English.

Buses Almost all buses leave from either the city's main bus terminal at the Florenc metro stop (red and yellow metro lines C and B) or from Anděl metro stop (yellow metro line B), the station is 200 meters south of the metro stop.

Trains Almost all trains leave from either Nádraží Holešovice, Hlavní nádraží (both red metro line C stops).

Practically every major European city on the continent can be reached by bus or train from Prague.

Where to go

For just a small selection of places off the beaten path:

• Kutna Hora - church decorated with the remains of 40,000 human skeletons

• Novosedly - take a horseback trip through the vineyards of Moravia

• Písek - beautiful South Bohemian town with the country's oldest bridge

• Vyšší Brod - three day canoe trip from the Sumava mountains through Český Krumlov

• Vysočina - great mountain area for hiking, located halfway between Prague and Brno

• Beroun - small city located on the way to Plzen, follow the Beroun river north to some beautiful villages

• Karlštejn castle and the holy cave monastery - hiking trip to the famous castle as well as an off the beaten track monastery

• Konopiště - Archduke Franz Ferdinand's Castle located 40km south of Prague