Melbourne

For other places with the same name, see Melbourne (disambiguation).

Melbourne [1] is the second-largest city in Australia and the capital of the state of Victoria. Located on the southern coast of Australia’s eastern seaboard, it is Australia’s most cultured city. The city’s features include Victorian-era architecture, many cultural institutions such as museums, galleries and theaters, and large parks and gardens. Its 3.8 million population is multicultural (large Greek, Italian, Jewish, Vietnamese and other immigrant groups) and sports-mad.


Melbourne hosted the XVIII Commonwealth Games [2] from 15 - 26 March 2006.

Yarra River and Melbourne skyline
Enlarge
Yarra River and Melbourne skyline

Contents

Districts

  • the City Center - the city's CBD and historical core, planned on a regular grid pattern north of the Yarra - also includes the Southbank district, immediately across the river. The city's CBD is full of hidden laneways and arcades where you'll find the coolest bars and designer boutiques. For the best tips, ask a local.
  • Albert Park
  • Carlton
  • Fitzroy
  • Footscray
  • Port Melbourne
  • Prahan
  • Richmond
  • South Melbourne
  • St Kilda
  • Williamstown

Understand

History

The settlement of Melbourne commenced in 1835 when settlers from Tasmania purchased land on Port Phillip Bay and the Yarra River from the Aborigines. In 1837 the streets of central Melbourne were carefully laid out, with some streets 30 meters wide. The first governor, Charles La Trobe, arrived in 1839 – his cottage still stands and can be visited in Kings Domain. The year 1851 was a landmark for Melbourne - the colony of Victoria became independent from New South Wales and very soon after gold was discovered in Victoria, sparking a huge goldrush. Aspects of goldrush history can be seen at the Gold Treasury Museum, housed in the Treasury Building built in 1858. Gold was the catalyst for several decades of prosperity lasting through to the late 1880s and examples of the ornate Victorian-era structures built during this time still stand. In 1888 the property boom collapsed and Victoria suffered the depression of the 1890s. Throughout the gold and building booms Melbourne managed to retain its many and spacious parks and gardens and these remain to this day.

In 1901 the British colonies of Australia became an independent federation and Melbourne the temporary capital of Australia. The Federal Parliament met in the Parliament House of Victoria from 1901 until 1927 when Canberra was founded. After World War II Melbourne grew rapidly, its till-then mainly Anglo-Celtic population boosted by immigration from Europe, particularly Greece and Italy. Today Melbourne has the biggest Greek city population (over 800,000) outside Greece and the biggest Italian city population (over 230,000) outside Italy. The significant pre-war Jewish population was also boosted after the war. From the mid-70s many immigrants came from South-east Asia, particularly Vietnam and Cambodia. Melbourne has had a Chinese population since the goldrush of the 1850s and Chinatown has existed from that time but the population of Chinese and other East Asians has also been boosted by immigration in recent years.

New high-rise buildings replaced many of Melbourne’s interesting old structures in the building boom of the 1970s and 80s. Melburnians belatedly recognised the loss of their architectural heritage and steps were taken to protect what was left. Construction of the huge Crown Casino (briefly the largest casino in the world) in the 1990s upset many Melburnians with its introduction of a crass gambling culture and the sucking of money from the rest of the city. Melbourne’s development continues in the 2000s with the opening of the Melbourne Museum, Federation Square and the Docklands precinct.

Culture

Melbourne considers itself the cultural capital of Australia, a boast supported by its large number of art galleries and a strong coffee culture[3]. In addition to the Melbourne Museum, there are special museums dedicated to subjects such as science, immigration, Chinese history, Jewish history, sport, racing, film and moving image, railways, police, fire brigades and banking. Melburnians are sports enthusiasts and particularly passionate about Australian Rules football [4], a sport invented in Melbourne. In fact AFL is not so much a sport as a religion in Melbourne with 9 of the 10 Victorian teams being based in Melbourne, the only other being based in Geelong. Horseracing is another passion, and the majority of the state has a public holiday on the first Tuesday of November for the racing of the Melbourne Cup [5], one of the world’s famous horse races. Cricket is the big summer sport and the Melbourne Cricket Ground (the 'MCG') [6] is one of the world's leading grounds. Each January Melbourne hosts tennis’s Australian Open [7], one of the world’s four Grand Slam championships. In March, Melbourne hosts the first race of the Formula One season [8]. The race is held in Albert Park in South Melbourne. Melbourne is the unquestioned sporting capital of Australia with the largest arenas and two of the major sporting administrations basing their operation in Melbourne: Cricket Australia is a stone's throw from the MCG, and the Australian Football League is based at the Telstra Dome.

Get in

By plane

Melbourne is serviced by two airports, Tullamarine (International/Domestic) and Avalon Airport (Domestic Only), both located West of Melbourne.

Melbourne International Airport (Tullamarine)

Melbourne Airport (MEL), located 22 km north-west of the city centre at Tullamarine, provides regular access from all major Australian cities, as well as many international destinations across Europe, America, Asia and the South Pacific region. Note that due to Australia's distance from most parts of the world, many international flights may go via an Asian hub (for example Singapore, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Hong Kong) or a Pacific Hub like Auckland, and/or transfer in Sydney.

The airport is divided into three terminals, T1, T2 and T3 which are all in the same building.

  • T1 (also known as the North terminal) is host to Qantas and Jetstar domestic services
  • T2 (also known as the international terminal) is host to international services. It is the middle terminal of the airport.
  • T3 (also known as the South terminal) is host to Virgin Blue and REX Regional Express domestic services.


All arrivals are on the lower level of the terminals, with departures from the upper level. Unlike many airports around the world, all the terminals at Melbourne Airport are connected and within easy walking distance of each other. However, each terminal has seperate security screening, and access between terminals is not available once in the sterile area.

Taxi between the airport and the city centre cost around $40-$45 and take about 25 minutes when traffic is no problem.

Skybus, tel 9670 7992, runs a 24x7 shuttle to and from the Southern Cross bus terminal on Spencer St at the west end of the Central Business District, just north of Lonsdale St. The trip takes 20 minutes and is the fastest way between the airport and city by road (it uses an enhanced freeway route with bus lanes). It costs $15 adult one-way, $24 adult return, $5 child one-way (between 4 and 14 years of age). There are also several family ticket options available. There are two airport pickup locations. One is outside the Virgin Blue/REX terminal (T3), 50m from the international terminal (T2). The other is outside the Qantas/Jetstar domestic terminal (T1). There are ticket desks at both T1 and T3, and if unattended tickets can be purchased electronically or from the driver. Frequency ranges from hourly during the wee hours to quarter hourly from about 6:30am-7:30pm (always on the quarter hour). They also run a connection service between the terminal and central hotels/hostels during the day (M-F 6am-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm). Book hotel pick-up 3 hours ahead. Bookings are not needed for travel from the airport to hotels. It is worth noting that the Skybus will drop you at Southern Cross bus terminal, which is connected (albeit not very well) to Southern Cross train station, where you can board all suburban trains and country/interstate trains.

Avalon Airport

Avalon Airport (AVV), is Situated in the Geelong outer suburb of Lara. The Airport is located 55 km to the south-west of Melbourne. Sun Bus Australia operates a shuttle service to Melbourne's CBD at $19 per adult one way. The Avalon Airport Shuttle provides a service to other areas of Victoria from $12 per adult one way. Avalon Airport is serviced by Qantas subsidiary low-cost airline Jetstar which services destinations such as Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, Darwin and Perth.

By train

All intercity rail services from interstate and intrastate destinations operate to and from Southern Cross Station, located on the western edge of Melbourne's central business district. The station is currently undergoing renovation.

Train rides from major cities take about 10 hours. CountryLink operates a twice daily service from Sydney (10½ hours away), though this may soon be cut to daily. Great Southern Railway run four services a week from Adelaide (10-11 hours away).

Services from cities within Victoria are operated by V/Line. These services operate from regional centers such as Geelong, Ballarat, Albury, Bendigo, Bairnsdale. Note that V/Line also operates bus services which connect with these trains.

VicLink is a handy website to manage your state-wide travel on trains and buses across Victoria. Regional Victoria's public transport is controlled by VicLink.

By car

From Sydney, the quickest route is the Hume Highway, which takes about 9-10 hours (non-stop). A more popular, longer route is along the coast on the Princes Highway. This adds several hours to the journey as it is longer in distance and there are fewer bypasses.

Adelaide is slightly closer, and can be reached in 7 hours. Once again, it is possible to go inland or along the coast - the coast is very scenic, but will add a couple of hours to the journey.

Although not often travelled, a direct journey from Brisbane takes around 24 hours (non-stop) and takes you further inland through areas not commonly visited (along the Newell Highway). This makes an interesting alternative to the more common Brisbane-Sydney-Melbourne coastal route.

By bus

Bus services to Melbourne from out of state are provided by Firefly Express and Greyhound (incorporating McCaffertys).

Bus services within Victoria are operated by V/Line, and operate from most major and many minor Victorian towns. VicLink is a handy website to manage your state-wide travel on trains and buses across Victoria.

By boat

Melbourne can be reached from Devonport, Tasmania by car/passenger ferries run by Spirit of Tasmania. The journey takes 10 hours and runs every night (in both directions), departing at 9pm and arriving at 7am. During the peak of Summer, there are also day sailings (departing 9am, arriving 7pm) on many days - check in advance.

Ticket prices depend on time of year and your sleeping accommodation. A seat (no bed) is the cheapest, starting (in off-peak season) from $108 for adults and $82 for children. Bear in mind, the seat is most uncomfortable, equivalent to a cinema seat. Cabins with bunk beds start from $187 adults, $97 children. Peak season costs are about 25% higher. Cars cost $59 all year round.

Get around

By foot

Melbourne is an excellent city for walking and you should have no problems navigating the CBD. It is a very large metropolitan area, but most areas of interest can be reached within about 20 minutes from the CBD on the train or tram. Maps can be purchased from bookstores such as Angus & Robertson, taken from Federation Square or viewed online at Street-Directory.com.au. If you're planning on taking the train to a specific area and walking the rest of the way, a combination of the afore-mentioned site and a decent printer will serve you well.

By public transport

Melbourne’s public transport system "Metlink" is comprised of trams, trains and buses: trams service the central city and inner suburbs, trains service the suburbs, and buses where there are no tram or train tracks. A single ticket (called a "Metcard") allows travel on all three modes of transport.

The "Met Shop" in the Melbourne Town Hall, on the corner of Swanston St and Little Collins St provides timetables and brochures, and sells tickets, maps and travel merchandise (open 8:30am-5:00pm Monday to Friday, 9am-1pm Saturday). The Met Information Centre, ph 131638 (131MET), every day 7am-9pm, provides information and the Metlink website also provides information including maps, fares and zones and all timetables. Metcards are also available from:

  • many retail businesses (especially 7-Eleven stores)
  • train stations - less than one-quarter of Melbourne's suburban train stations are staffed. At unstaffed stations, Metcard vending machines are provided. All ticket machines accept coins and will issue a maximum of $10.00 in change. Most stations will also have at least 1 machine that will take notes but little-used railway stations may have just coin-only machines.
  • trams - all trams have a coin-only ticket machine that issues a limited range of tickets (up to a day-ticket).

Metcards are divided into "Zones", with Zone 1 covering the central city and inner suburbs (and consequently almost the entire tram network), Zone 2 covering the middle suburbs and some outer suburbs, and Zone 3 the remaining outer suburbs and the Mornington Peninsula. Almost all tickets are time-based; that is, they can be used for the given period of time from the first time you use it. The following are the most useful tickets (and some idicative costs) for travellers:

  • two-hour (adult Zone 1 $3.20) (New fares effective 01/01/06)
  • daily (adult Zone 1 $6.10)
  • weekly (adult Zone 1 $26.70)
  • Sunday Saver (travel across all zones, all day Sunday; $2.50 but the ticket is not available at automatic ticket machines)
  • City Saver (a single trip within the CBD only; adult $2.20)

Concession Metcards are available for all children aged under fifteen years, but concessions for older students are only available to Victorian residents who are eligible and have paid for a student concession card. A concession Metcard costs roughly half the price of an adult Metcard.

Before each journey, and sometimes to gain access to the station platforms, a metcard must be "validated" by inserting it into a validation machine. On trams, the metcard must be validated after boarding the tram; however, tickets purchased on the tram (from the machine) are already validated. Note that a two-hour metcard that is validated for the first time at 6:01pm (18:01) or later is valid for the rest of the night, so if you’re heading out after 6pm for an evening’s entertainment, don't buy or validate a day ticket.

Ticket inspections are rare during peak hour for obvious reasons, but more common during the middle of the day. You'll find that Flinders Street station and the adjacent tram stops almost always have a large population of inspectors floating around who'll swoop on you as soon as you make a move to exit the station - especially if you appear to be young or are carrying a concession ticket. If you are caught using a concession ticket without a concession card, you will be fined. The ticket barriers have a light on the top which flashes if you are using a concession ticket. It has now been written into law that your ticket can be inspected even after you have left your train, tram or bus. Fines which used to be $100 can now be up to $500 depending on the transgression.

Services generally operate between 6:00am and midnight Monday to Saturday, and after 8:00am Sunday morning. After midnight on Saturday and Sunday mornings only there are NightRider buses which run defined routes to the suburbs. Tickets are $6 except for Mornington ($8) and Melton ($8.20) and Metcards are not valid.

Although Melbourne is a reasonably safe city, crime can and does occur on public transport. If you're waiting at a station at night, it would be wise to stand in the designated 'safety area'. These areas are well lit and provide easy access to the emergency intercom.

You'll find that the trains have intercoms as well, but be warned: if you move to the next carriage to send a message to the driver, everyone onboard will be able to hear it.

The free City Circle trams run around the CBD perimeter, covering Flinders St, Spring St, Nicholson St, Victoria St, La Trobe St and Harbour Esplanade. They run in both directions every 12 minutes every day except Good Friday and Christmas Day from 10am-6pm, and until 9pm Thursday-Saturday during daylight savings. Several of the trams on this service are equipped with recorded commentary about attractions passed. They are geared to visitors and are a great introduction to central Melbourne.

By bike

Melbourne has an excellent network of bike paths, making pedal-power a great way to take in the city. Most paths are "shared footways" under the law, although the majority of users in most places are cyclists. This means cyclists should expect to share the path with pedestrians, dog-walkers, rollerbladers, joggers, prams and tricycles. Some trails contain on-road sections (in marked bike lanes). It is legal to cycle on footpaths only when supervising cycling children or when the path is marked or signposted as allowing bikes. Helmets are required by law, and care should be taken when cycling near slippery tram tracks.

The main paths of interest to travellers are:

  • The Yarra River Trail runs from the mouth of Melbourne's iconic Yarra River, through the city and onwards to Westerfolds Park in the outer suburbs. See [9].
  • The Capital City Trail runs a circuit through Melbourne's inner suburbs, the Docklands precinct and the city. It's a good way to see a slice of day-to-day life. See [10].
  • The Bay Trail is a pleasant trek aroung Port Phillip Bay, running from Port Melbourne, through the bustling beachside precinct of St Kilda, past the famous bathing sheds of Brighton, all the way to Carrum. A punt operates under the West Gate Bridge allowing a start at Altona Meadows along the Williamstown Trail, across the punt, and joining with the Bay Trail. See [11].

Detailed maps of the bike path network can be found here.

Information about cycling rules can be found at [12].

Bikes can be hired from Hire a Bike on the Yarra River Bank just over the river from Federation Square, ph 0417 339 203.

By car

The cheapest car rentals are from places like Rentabomb but use may be restricted to the Melbourne metropolitan area.

Mid-range rental companies give good value. Try:

  • Snappy, 225 Franklin St, Central Melbourne or 79 Matthews Ave, Airport West
  • Crown, 371-379 King St, Central Melbourne or its affiliate Abel, 247 Mickleham Rd, Tullamarine.

The more pricey major chains are well-represented. These include Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Thrifty.

Be aware of rental car insurance conditions in Australia. You will pay an excess on damage even if it is not your fault.

Driving in the city shouldn't be attempted without at least a basic map! You can buy a very detailed 'Melways' directory of the metro area from most bookstores or petrol stations.

Drivers should watch out for "hook turns" in the inner city areas. Normally, a driver would have to be in the right-most lane of a multilane street in order to legally perform a right turn. When a hook turn is indicated by a sign "Right turn from left only", the driver must go as far as practicable into the intersection, staying on the left. When the light of the street you are turning into turns green, you complete the turn. Lots of Melbournians are confused about this, but you should not complete the turn until you get a green light on the street you are turning into. The point of hook turns is to keep all turning cars away from the tram tracks. Check out Wikipedia's hook turn page.

Check out CityLink's site for details of Melbourne's T-shaped tollway which links the Westgate, Tullamarine and Monash (formerly South-Eastern) freeways. It is a fully electronic road with no manual toll gates. You can buy a day pass in advance, or within 3 days of having driven down it, giving your registration and car details. You can do this by phone, internet, or at some Shell petrol stations. The registered owner of the car will get a fine in the mail if you do not buy a pass within 3 days. The tolled sections are indicated with purple and orange signs, rather than the standard green and white. CityLink can cut a worthwhile amount of time from your journey, especially if you are driving from, say, the south-eastern suburbs to Melbourne Airport. Motorcycles are free, cars are around $11/day. Larger vehicles are more.

In progress is the EastLink tollway. Formerly called the Scoresby, then the Mitcham-Frankston freeway, it will link the Eastern, Monash, Frankston and Mornington Peninsula freeways. It was itself to be a freeway, until Labour party Premier Steve Bracks broke this election promise in 2004.

See

  • The Melbourne Zoo in Carlton is very good. In the past few years, they've updated the exhibits a lot
  • Parliament House of Victoria, the first seat of the Australian federal government, in the city and is very interesting
  • Queen Victoria Market in the city is interesting and a great place to pick up all sorts of stuff
  • The Botanical Gardens in the city has bats, plants and everything else you'd expect
  • The State Library in the city is pretty good if you're into books and has a very large collection, although you'll find a lot of the more interesting titles behind the counter
  • The updated Melbourne Museum city, is now very interesting and worth seeing.
  • The IMAX theatre in the city, which is right next door, is, though

East Brunswick, Northcote & Thornbury

  • CERES [[13]] is an environmental park established in 1982 on the grounds of the East Brunswick Tip. Its a fun park for eco-adults with a lot going for its small area in the middle of suburbia. The feeling that you have stepped out of Melbourne for a short time, and get more earthy is what keeps people coming back time & time again. From all directions at CERES, you may encounter:
  • a Bike Shed (run by Brunswick Bicycle Users Group)
  • Alternative Technology Association building and demonstrations
  • biodynamic shed - for teaching people how to grow food biodynamically
  • African & Indonesian villages - a credible recreation of a traditional village, with locals from those countries helping it run smoothly
  • a farm - sheep and chooks - children are encouraged to mill around them
  • cafe - some of the best food in Melbourne is here
  • Aboriginal area - talks by local aboriginal representative, again for the children, is to increase awareness of local Aboriginal culture & life
  • Market is on Saturdays and Wednesdays, and is a great place to buy your organic vegetables & fruit near the farm setting
  • Nursery - one of the best places to buy any locally grown indigenous plants. Watch out for their massive water sprays!

and much more, including a mudbrick oven that bakes bread.

Also its festivals are numerous, ethnic-orientated, community-minded, children-friendly and often going late into the night. Their most popular & biggest - Return of the Sacred Kingfisher in November boasts colourful lanterns made by the local children, large paper-mache animals & full decked-out costumes! Entry is by donation, and you are free to walk around most days during sunlight hours. Entry to special night events (concerts, festivals) are charged (often quite reasonably). http://www.ceres.org.au/

Take the Number 96 tram north from St Kilda Acland Street or Fitzroy Street, or Bourke Street or Southern Cross Station in the city all the way to the last stop (Blyth St, East Brunswick). Look at the front of the tram for the electronic indication saying - 96 East Brunswick. Do not take No.86 tram.

St Kilda & Elsternwick

  • Luna Park, Lower Esplanade, St Kilda. F 7-11pm, Sa 11am-11pm, Su 11am-6pm. Open more days and hours during school holidays. Historic amusement park built in 1912. Admission free; single rides $7.00 13+ years, $5.50 4-12 years, $3 3 years and under; unlimited rides $33.95 13+ years, $23.95 4-12 years, $12.95 3 years and under. http://www.lunapark.com.au/
  • St Kilda Pier. Popular spot for fishing and walking.
  • St Kilda foreshore. Fine place for walking, skating, sunbathing and, on Sundays, shopping at the Esplanade Sunday market.
  • St Kilda Botanical Gardens, Blessington St, St Kilda. First planted in 1859.

Tullamarine

  • Woodlands Historic Park is immediately north of Melbourne Airport. Entrances are off Somerton Road, Oaklands Road and Providence Road. Contains an 1840s homestead, a walk up Gellibrand Hill, and a nature reserve. It is a good spot to see Australian wildlife, with kangaroos and native birds common in the park.

Organ Pipes National Park

A small national park located just to the north north-west of Melbourne on the way to Bendigo. Contains walking trails and rock formations including the “organ pipes”, hexagonal columns of basalt, the Rosette Rock (a radial array of basalt columns like the spokes of a wheel) and the Tessellated Pavement, the tops of basalt columns. http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/1park_display.cfm?park=167

You Yangs

You Yangs Regional Park is 55 km south-west of Melbourne and 22 km north of Geelong. Access from Princes Freeway is via Little River if coming from Melbourne and Lara if coming from Geelong. Open 8am-4:30pm year round and from 8am-6pm on weekends and public holidays during daylight saving. Four main walks traverse the park. The 3.2 km walk to Flinders Peak (348m) takes 90 minutes and gives good views. The longest track is the 3 hour Branding Yard Track. http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/1park_display.cfm?Park=208

Do

  • See interesting films at Cinema Nova in Carlton, the Kino, Lumiere or ACMI in the city, or the Astor in Windsor. There are several moonlight cinema programmes in summer. The Melbourne International Film Festival is on in August.
  • Visit a comedy club. The Comic's Lounge has shows for $10-25 including a show filmed for Channel 31 on Mondays, or dinner and show for $45. The Comedy Club has dinner and show for $32 and shows only beginning at $7 (discount ticket price).
  • Watch the mesmorising process of personalised hard candy being hand-made at Suga. Around lunch time is a good time to see (and sample!). There is one store at Queen Victoria Market, but if you visit the Royal Arcade location, you can also watch chocolate making next door at Koko Black.
  • Watch a game of AFL football at the MCG or Telstra Dome during the winter, or a Cricket Match during the summer, AFL Fixtures Cricket Fixtures bookings at both the MCG and Telstra can be made through Ticketmaster.

Learn

  • You can take language classes, join a cafe book group, learn to draw, sign up for historical or foodie walks, study for your Victorian Certificate of Education or take computer or business classes at the Council of Adult Education (CAE). The CAE is also home to the City Library where you can sign up to borrow books or just read magazines in their cafe.

Work

If you have an appropriate Visa (e.g. Work & Holiday Visa, temporary work) you can join a temp agency and get placed in positions all around Melbourne. To get started it's recommend to walk around in the Backpacker Hostels and look for the jobs corner or surf in the Internet. Although checking the website of major companies in your preffered industry will give you an idea which positions are open.

Most popular is to work in hospitality jobs around the St. Kilda area. The wages in all other industries are usually much better than working in hospitality but require a certain kind of skills. At the moment there are a lot of job offers for nurses etc and craftsmen.

Fruit picking is a possible source of income but in the greater Melbourne area not many jobs are offered. Better chances are in the dairy business but some basic experience should be proved.

Buy

Melbourne is the Fashion Capital of Australia without a doubt. Bridge Road is a strip where warehouse direct outlets rule and no one pays recommended retail price. Chapel Street in South Yarra is a favourite among the locals, with its spread of exclusive boutiques, cafes and well established chain stores. In the CBD itself, Little Collins Street is home to some of the world's top designers and fashion houses; Collins St also boasts a Louis Vuitton outlet. Brunswick Street features an eclectic mix of vintage, retro and alternative gear for the more adventurous. There are also several huge shopping complexes in the suburbs, such as Chadstone (dubbed "the Fashion Capital") in the South-East and Knox City in the outer East. and With its numerous Shopping Malls and boutique lined streets, Melbourne has more than enough to keep the most avid shoppers happy!

Melbourne Easy Guide is a comprehensive and ever expanding directory of Melbourne shopping, tourist attractions, entertainment and more. Interactive maps let you explore the city area by area and street by street. The web site is complete with photographs, movies, and plenty of tourist and shopping information.

Eat

For the culinary traveller, Melbourne is one of the best destinations in the world. There is an abundance of affordable, high quality restaurants representing almost every cuisine — though authentic Mexican is a notable weak point. While prices have increased in recent years, eating out remains noticeably cheaper than in Western Europe or the United States.

Excellent eateries can be found sprinkled throughout all of the inner (and some outer) suburbs, while certain neighbourhoods have become magnets for residents and restaurants of particular countries.

A few ideas:

  • Hungry budget travellers can eat all they want for $7.95 at the Melbourne Bar & Bistro smorgasbord, 168 Elizabeth St, near the Bourke St corner. All You Can Eat Buffet restaurant chains like Foodstar have also appeared in recent years serving a large number of patrons around Melbourne. The quality leaves a lot to be desired, though.
  • Another budget option is the interesting Crossways lunch restaurant at 123 Swanston St., where you'll find a delicious 2 course vegetarian all-you-can-eat meal for $6.00 (or $4.50 if you have a concession card). Open Monday to Saturday 11.30 - 2.30 pm.
  • In Degraves St and Centreplace (which link Flinders St to Collins St, between Swanston St and Elizabeth St) you will find several breakfast restaurants. Most open from 7 and serve all kinds of breakfast. Competition is strong and keeps quality up so make your own choice. Aix has a huge selection of crepes.
  • Dozens of Vietnamese eateries on Victoria St, Richmond (109 tram, East Richmond station) will be kind to your wallet. Most are authentic and good.
  • Brunswick St, Fitzroy (11 or 112 tram). Try Babka's bakery or Atomica for breakfast. Try Fusion or the Vegie Bar for lunch (the Vegie Bar does great wheat-free meat-free dishes). Try Trampoline for icecream (look for the dots) or Vertigo for cakes. Jasper Coffee for sheer coffee expertise.
  • A largely undiscovered budget gem is Bimbo's Delux on Brunswick St., which has $4 gourmet pizzas every weekday between 12pm and 4pm and Sunday - Thursday after 7pm. It is hard to miss, with a gian baby stuck to its roof.
  • Shakahari's, on Faraday St in Carlton, for fancy but not overpriced vegetarian food. The White Lotus, on Victoria St near Victoria Market, does good vegetarian Chinese for those who like fake meat.
  • Lygon St in the student quarter of Carlton hosts an innumerable Italian restaurants of varying quality. Try the Lygon Food Store for lunch; Trotters, Tiamo 2 or the University Cafe for dinner. Both Il Dolce Freddo and Cassa Del Gelato serve first-rate gelati & icecream. Heading further north along Lygon Street, (Tram #1 or 22) to North Carlton you'll also find some good Indian options, and Thai Thalia and I Carusi are great. Rathdowne St has some (more up-market) exceptional choices — Cafe ZumZum, La Luna, the Rathdowne St Food Store are good starting points. Kumichan provides good value Japanese.
  • Melbourne's Chinatown district, centred around Little Bourke St is filled with cheap Chinese options and some well-hidden (but excellent) Japanese alternatives. Avoid the Post Deng - it's cheap, but filthy. Search Tattersal's Lane for deliciously cheap dumplings, and the out of place but kitscky ode to Bollywood that is Gaylords (4 Tattersalls Lane; tel 9663 3980; open 11.30pm - 3pm Sun-Fri, 5.30pm - 10.30pm Mon-Sat). The CBD is also suffused with postmodern oriental restaurants catering to the large Asian student market. In this vein, Gigi on Swanston St is the place for fast Japanese.
  • East St Kilda and Caulfield are home to a vibrant Jewish communities, and kosher bakeries and cafes abound. Nearby Acland St in St. Kilda is noteworthy for both felafel and cakes. Bala's, opposite Luna Park, is a must for the budget traveller. Fitzroy St, around the corner, also has numerous (slightly more expensive) choices. Try The Pelican for its famous tapas, or Cafe A Taglio for a slice of authentic Italian pizza.
  • There is some reasonable food on Chapel St, South Yarra.
  • Fifteen Melbourne, the fourth restaurant in Jamie Oliver's Fifteen franchise has recently opened in Melbourne at: Basement, 115-117 Collins St.(Enter through George Pde.) The restaurant however, is fully booked until February.

If you're in Melbourne for more than a couple of weeks, and wish to sample the cuisine in a studious fashion, get a copy of "Cheap Eats in Melbourne" from a book shop. Serious epicureans can move up to "The Age Good Food Guide". The online restaurant guide FoodGod is also available, and has reviews of a number of eateries in Melbourne by local residents.

For Kosher food some really good places include: Lamzinis, a chinese take away place, is located on 272 Glen Eira Road, Elsternwick (9532 7385) or Glicks, including a bakery, a pizza/pasta sit down (9527 8733) and a fast food take away (9527 9968), located on Carlisle St, East St Kilda, other Kosher restaurants include Zavdiel a pizza place on Kooyong Road, North Caulfield (9500 8227). For a more Formal kosher meal, Park Grill overlooking Caulfield Park, is a great kosher grill located at 58 Hawthorn Road, Caulfield North (9500 0110) There are a couple of Kosher Bakeries located on Carlise St, and Kosher Butchers within the East St Kilda subarb.

Drink

Coffee

Caffeine lovers rejoice, for Melbourne is a city of cafes. Fuelled by the passion of Italian migrants arriving in the aftermath of World War II, Melbourne's lauded cafe culture makes it one of the few cities in the world where an espresso is never more than a few metres away. Thousands of cafes, ranging from the bohemian and cool of Fitzroy to the Euro-chic glamour of Collins Street or the traditional coffee houses of Carlton, are waiting to dispense half-froth decaf-a-chinos, soy lattes, or just a high-fuel espresso. All caffeine addicts have to fear in Melbourne is a case of the jitters. Warning: There is plenty of bad coffee in Melbourne too. Use your judgement.

While it would be impossible to list all the cafes in Melbourne, below is a tiny selection of the cafes well-regarded for brewing an (almost) perfect cup:

  • If Melbourne's coffee culture has a home, it is the Italian precinct surrounding Lygon St, Carlton. Brunetti's (198-204 Faraday St, Carlton; Phone: 9357 9499; Sun–Fri 7am–11pm; Sat 7am–midnight) is a Melbourne institution for good coffee and a fiendish selection of Italian sweets and gelato. The cafe also pioneered the now ubiquitous use of gas heaters to let customers sit outside, even in the winter months. Tiamo 1 (303 Lygon St, Carlton; Phone: 9347-5759) is a traditional, no-fuss Roman style espresso bar beloved by Mafia bosses and those seeking an authentic espresso. The family behind Grinders Coffee House (277 Lygon Street Carlton; Phone: 9347 7520; Mon–Thurs 9am–5.45pm; Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 9am–12.45pm) have not only been supplying Melbourne's cafes with coffee since the 1960's but at their first store you can also get a shot of your favourite brew.
  • The central business district also holds some hidden gems. Degraves Espresso Bar (23 Degraves Street, City; Ph 03 9654 1245; Mon–Fri 6.30am–7.30pm; Sat–Sun 7.30am–4pm), tucked into a bluestone laneway near Flinders St Station, has long-held the title of Melbourne's best coffee. If Parisian pastries and good coffee are what you crave, then head to Laurent Bakery (306 Little Collins St, Melbourne; Phone; 9654-1011) a now franchised establishment with well-trained barristas.
  • Further afield, Wall Two 80 (Rear, 280 Carlisle Street, Balaclava; Phone: 9593 8280; Daily 7.30am–6pm) has received nothing but praise for its coffee and breakfasts. The prize for most bizarre and welcome arrival to Melbourne's coffee scene, though, must go to Kanteen (1 Alexandra Ave, South Yarra; Phone: 9827-0488) a refurbished toilet block beside the Yarra that serves exceptional coffee and tasty burnches to an in-the-know crowd. Note: Kanteen is currently closed for refurbishment.

The blog Melbourne Coffee Review is well worth a read.

Bars

The past decade has seen a revival of Melbourne's inner-city bar scene, with dozens of weird and wonderful watering holes opening up within forgotten alleyways and anonymous lanes of the CBD. Melbourne also has its fair share of stylish places to drink, although the better ones can be hard to find. The theory seems to be: the harder your bar is to find, the more people will talk about it.

Australian licensing laws are very similar to those in the UK, i.e. you are not allowed to be drunk on licensed premises. In practice though, Melbourne venues and bouncers draw the line very low. If have a British enthusiasm for drink, you might be in for a surprise here.

Highlights of bars and pubs include:

  • Serious cocktail aficionados should check out The Gin Palace (190 Little Collins St; 9654-0533), a welcome mix of knowledgeable bartenders, funky bordello ambiance and a laid-back crowd. A little more upmarket is Tony Starr's Kitten Club (267 Little Collins Street; Phone: 9650-2448; www.kittenclub.com.au) which offers a leopard-print throwback to the smooth cats and cool jazz of the 50's. The weekday crowd of funk loving twenty-something professionals sip on a range of cocktails blended and shaken by well-trained and attentive staff. The upstairs performance area hosts local and visiting funk, jazz and cabaret acts.
  • The Croft Institute (21-25 Croft Alley; Phone: 9671-4399) epitomizes the kitschy-hidden-bar trend of the past few years. Tucked within the narrowest and smelliest alley in Melbourne, this place is somewhat charmingly fitted out like a high school laboratory; complete with beakers, test tubes and retorts. Check out the upstairs 'gymnasium' playing house and electro, and the hospital gurney (with stirrups) on display near the women's toilets.
  • Arthur's Lounge (Corporation Lane; Phone: 9654 9744; www.arthursbarlounge.com.au) is a decadent club / bar with prices and door policies to match. A crowd-friendly mix of house and electronica will keep you going, and the fun-loving (but sometimes pretentious) patrons are a pleasant mix of funky bohemia, city glamour and coke-snorting party people.
  • For a taste of Fitzroy in the CBD, drop into the cheerful Rue Bebelons (267 Little Lonsdale Street; 9663-1700) for a reasonably priced coffee or beer. The Nepalese family behind the bar mix up great music and a friendly vibe to a crowd of laid back artists and students from nearby universities.
  • Misty's (3-5 Hosier Ln; Phone: 9663 9202) hosts a smiliar crowd, but in slightly cooler retro-sci-fi surrounds. The staff are friendly, live DJs spin groovy tunes most nights and it makes a great launching pad for shows at the nearby Forum.
  • St Jerome's (7 Caledonian Lane; www.mcity.com.au/features/stjeromes.php) for unique Melbourne sub-culture and street style.
  • Cookie (Swanston St between Lonsdale and Bourke opposite the Lounge) Excellent bar and cocktails with an upstyle crowd that likes to party hard. Although a restaurant for dinner.
  • Borsch, Vodka and Tears, 173 Chapel Street, Prahan, +61-3-9530-2694, [14]. Borsch, Vodka and Tears is a Polish vodka bar, serving quite a number of genuine Polish vodkas, a number of other vodkas and a reasonable amount of decidedly non-Polish absinthe. Ordering vodka in the slightly smaller tasting glasses is a comparitively economical way to drink.

For Kosherfood some really good places include: Lamzinis, a chinese take away place, is located on 272 Glen Eira Road, Elsternwick (9532 7385)

Sleep

Budget

Around Grand Prix time (early March) hostel accommodation is booked out and some hostels raise prices. Be sure to book ahead for that period.

Central Melbourne

  • Arthouse Hotel, 616 Elizabeth St, 9347 3917 (arthouse@hotmail.com). Also a live music venue so you might want to check whether it will be noisy.
  • Central City Accommodation Melbourne, Various locations: Lonsdale St & Elizabeth St, 8304 5008 (enquiries@centralcityaccom.com). 2 Bdrm Apartment from $89 Per night. For more information visit our website http://www.centralcityaccom.com/
  • City Centre Private Hotel, 22 Little Collins St, 9654 5401.
  • Elizabeth Aus-Asia Hostel, Lvl 1, 490 Elizabeth St, 9663 1685 (elizabethhostel@hotmail.com, fax 9663 2475).
  • Enterprize Hotel, 44 Spencer St, +61 3 9629 6991 (http://www.hotelenterprize.com.au, fax (03) 9614 7963). Recently renovated, centrally located, unfortunately their studios have kitchens but no cutlery or crockery!!
  • Exford Hotel, 199 Russell St (cnr Little Bourke St), 9663 2697. Old English Pub in the heart of China Town, Heaps of atmosphere 24 hour Reception Free Breakfast http://www.exfordhotel.com.au/ res@exfordhotel.com.au
  • Flinders Station Hotel, 35 Elizabeth St (cnr Flinders Lane), 9620 5100 (res@flindersbackpackers.com.au, fax 9620 5101). 24-hour reception. Centrally located. The dorms don’t seem to get cleaned often. There is a music venue in the basement but the noise doesn’t penetrate the rooms. However the rooms do get a lot of street noise at night and early morning, but probably other central city hostels have the same. Twins and doubles have own tv. Beds in 4-bed dorms $23 per night or $136 per week, twin or double $64 per room per night or $379 per week, double ensuite $79 per room per night or $469 per week. http://www.flindersbp.com.au/
  • The Friendly Backpacker, 197 King St (near Little Bourke St), Central Melbourne, 9670 1111 (friendly@friendlygroup.com.au, fax 9670 9911). Dorm bed $25, double $80 (all include free Internet and breakfast). http://www.friendlygroup.com.au/
  • Greenhouse Backpacker, 228 Flinders Lane (just off Swanston St), Central Melbourne, 9639 6400 (greenhouse@friendlygroup.com.au, fax 9639 6900). Dorm bed $27, single $60, double $78 (all include free Internet and breakfast). http://www.friendlygroup.com.au/
  • Hotel Bakpak, 167 Franklin St, Central Melbourne, 9329 7525, 1800 645 200 (infofranklin@bakpakgroup.com, fax 9326 7667). 24 hour reception. Dorm beds $21-$25, single $55, double $60. http://www.bakpakgroup.com/
  • Hotel Y, 489 Elizabeth St, 9329 5188.
  • Kingsgate Hotel, 131 King St, 9629 4171.
  • Melbourne International Backpackers, 450 Elizabeth St, 9662 4066 (res@mibp.com.au, fax 9662 4077). Jan-Apr Dorm beds $19-$21.

  • Melbourne Metro YHA, 78 Howard St, Melbourne, 9329 8599 (melbmetro@yhavic.org.au, fax 9326 8427). 24-hour reception. Excellent hostel located on the fringe of the city, about 10 minutes walk to the centre of city. Great facilities and very clean. Free car parking on-site. Shared room from $26, double/twin from $78, Ensuite rooms from $88 (YHA non-members $3.50 extra). Hostel website
  • Stork Hotel, 504 Elizabeth St, 9663 6237 (admin@storkhotel.com, fax).
  • Toad Hall Hotel, 441 Elizabeth St (just north of A’Beckett St), Central Melbourne, 9600 9010 (toadhall.hotel@bigpond.com, fax 9600 9013). Office open 7am-10pm. Dorm beds from $25, single from $60, double from $70. http://www.toadhall-hotel.com.au/
  • Victoria Hotel, 215 Little Collins St (between Swanston St and Russell St), Central Melbourne, 9653 0441, 1800 331 147 (stay@victoriahotel.com.au, fax 9650 9678). Single $56-$155, twin/double $78-$155, triple $99-$165, family rooms and apartments from $150. http://www.victoriahotel.com.au/

North Melbourne

  • Melbourne Oasis YHA Hostel, 76 Chapman St, North Melbourne, 9328 3595 (oasis@yhavic.org.au, fax 9329 7863).

Small friendly hostel located in the pretty suburb of North Melbourne. 10 minutes by tram to city. Close to Royal Park, Melbourne Zoo and main Melbourne hospitals. Great hostel garden, very sheltered, sunny and relaxing. Shared room $26-29, Double $65 (YHA non-members $3.50 extra). Hostel Website

Fitzroy

  • The Nunnery, 116 Nicholson St (between Hanover St and King William St; near the Museum; catch the 96 tram from Spencer St Station, get off at stop 13 on Nicholson St), Fitzroy, 9419 8637, 1800 032 635 (infonunnery@bakpakgroup.com, fax 9417 7736). 24 hour reception. Dorm beds $23-$27, single $60, double/twin $65-$75, other options also. http://www.bakpakgroup.com/nunnery

South Melbourne

  • Nomads Market Inn, 115 Cecil St (near York St and the South Melbourne Market), South Melbourne, 9690 2220, 1800 241 445 (backpackers@marketinn.com.au, fax 9690 2544). Dorm beds from $19, double/twin $58, triple $72. http://www.marketinn.com.au/

Windsor

  • Nomads Chapel St Backpackers, 22 Chapel St (just north of Dandenong Rd), Windsor, 9533 6855 (info@csbackpackers.com.au, fax 9533 6866). Jan-Apr dorm beds $20-26, twin $29 pp, double $75. http://www.csbackpackers.com.au/

St Kilda

  • Jackson’s Manor, 53 Jackson St, St Kilda, 9534 1877 (info@jacksonsmanor.com.au). Dorm beds $19-$24, single $58, double/twin $30 pp. http://www.jacksonsmanor.com.au/
  • Olembia Guesthouse, 96 Barkly St (near Inkerman and Grey Sts), St Kilda, 9537 1412 (stay@olembia.com.au, fax 9537 1600). Office hours 7am-1pm, 5-7pm. Dorm beds $25, single $46, twin/double $78, triple $90. http://www.olembia.com.au/
  • The Ritz for Backpackers, 169 Fitzroy St (near Princes St), St Kilda, 9525 3501 (ritz@backpackerscentre.com). 24-hour reception. Located above the Elephant and Wheelbarrow hotel. You can park in the carpark behind the hotel overnight, officially till 8am but you will probably get away with parking there a bit longer. http://www.backpackerscentre.com/ritz/index
  • St Kilda Coffee Palace, 24 Grey St (between Fitzroy St and Dalgety St), St Kilda, 9534 5283, 1800 654 098.

Mid-range

  • Atlantis Hotel, 300 Spencer St (near LaTrobe Street), +613 9600 2900, (reservations@atlantishotel.com.au, fax 9600 2700). 24 hour reception. From $140, but cheaper rates available online. http://www.atlantishotel.com.au
  • California Hotel, 138 Barkers Rd Hawthorn (East along Victoria Pde), 98180281 ,1800 33 11 66

(reservations@californiahotel.com.au) From $110 for Double/Twin. http://www.californiahotel.com.au

  • Explorers Inn, 16 Spencer St (near Flinders St), 9621 3333, 1800 816 168 (contact@explorersinn.com.au, fax 9621 1922). 24 hour reception. Twin or double $118. http://www.explorersinn.com.au
  • Southbank Apartments Melbourne, 28 Southgate Ave, Southbank, 9686 7711 (info@southbankapartments.com.au, fax 9686 7722). Premium 1 bedroom serviced apartments from $195. Corporate and government rates available. http://www.southbankapartments.com.au
  • Melbourne Accommodation, 2/33 Latrobe St, Melbourne, 9663 8878 (enquiries@melaccom.com, fax 9663 8878). 1 bedroom apartments from $140. Lower rates for extended stays. http://www.melaccom.com
  • Rydges Melbourne, 186 Exhibition Street ph 1300 857 922 - Rydges Melbourne is located in the heart of Melbourne's vibrant theatre district and is situated opposite Her Majesty’s Theatre, 1 block from The Comedy Theatre and The Princess Theatre, 2 blocks The Athenaeum Theatre and The Regent Theatre and 3 blocks from The Forum (Old State Theatre). Rydges Hotels and Resorts is an Austrailian owned and operated company.
  • Riverwalk Melbourne, 649 Bridge Road ph 1300 857 922 - Located only 4km's from the Melbourne CBD, the hotel is ideally located within the popular Bridge Rd shopping precinct.
  • Rydges on Bell Preston Melbourne, 205 Bell Street ph 1300 857 922 - Located 20 minutes from the CBD and just 20 minutes from Melbourne's International Airport. Positioned within walking distance to both Tram, Rail and Bus networks. Rydges Hotels and Resorts is an Austrailian owned and operated company.

Splurge

The Park Hyatt Melbourne

Contact

Post

After a fire gutted the original building in 2001, most of Melbourne's grand General Post Office (250 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne; Phone: 13 13 18; Fax: 9203 3078; Mon-Fri 8.30am to 5.30pm, Sat 9am to 4pm, Sun 10am to 4pm; australiapost.com.au) has now been turned into an upmarket retail precinct, but it still has a range of postal services including post restante.

Phone

Telstra payphones are easily found through the city, but many are being phased out due to growing mobile phone ownership. These phones are coin-operated or use prepaid Telstra Phonecards, which are available from most convenience stores or newsagents. International calling cards are also available at these outlets.

Mobile phone coverage within the CBD and surrounds is usually good-to-excellent. Melbourne's area code is 03.

Internet

Internet cafes are dotted throughout the city, especially near the backpacker enclaves of St Kilda and Flinders Street. Speeds are usually excellent and rates range from $2.50 - $12 per hour, the cheapest usually found in combination market/internet cafes in the Asian parts of town. Some of the best include:

  • e:FiftyFive (55 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne) is like a huge basement lounge room that feels more like a bar than an internet cafe. Great DJs, comfortable couches and dirt-cheap $2/hour internet access when you buy a drink attract plenty of travellers and will make writing that email home an enjoyable experience.
  • World Wide Wash (361 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy) is a laundromat with plenty of internet terminals to keep you busy while your socks are tumble drying. There's an espresso machine, friendly staff and their motto is "Our internet is so fast you'll s*#t your pants ... and then you can wash them!"
  • The City Library (253 Flinders Lane, Melbourne) offers free internet access to members - temporary membership is available. The service will soon have charges.
  • The State Library offers free internet at many workstations and does not require membership. You can get a free membership for access to free wireless web access, however, the wireless access is limited and you may not be able to access some sites and services.
  • You'll find that some of the McDonald's restaurants in the city offer wireless access as well.

Stay safe

Like most Australian cities, Melbourne is relatively safe and in fact boasts the country's lowest per-capita rate of violent crime. Usual big-city precautions like avoiding dark alleys after sunset should apply, but otherwise your visit should be hassle free.

Melbourne's red-light districts include King Street in the CBD and Grey Street, St Kilda, but you're more likely to face drunken revellers and unwelcome approaches from street walkers than any major threat. Melbourne City Council has also recently established all-night "Safe City" taxi ranks with security guards on King Street, outside Flinders Street Station and on Bourke Street.

It is not advised, as in most large cities, to travel by train late at night unless completely necessary. If travelling, travel in the front carriage close to the driver's area and note emergency buttons. If a problem occurs, push emergency buttons on the train or railway station to attract attention. Stay in "Safety Zones" while on stations at night. These are marked with yellow lines and are usually well lit and have emergancy buttons aswell as about 4 cameras pointed at the area. Be vigilant on trains as rape, beatings and murders have happened on the Melbourne train system, however they are rare occurrences. Security is always under fire. Robbery does happen on the train system, especially at night. Railway police patrol most services.

If you are driving your own car or rented automobile, please be aware that break-ins to automobiles have also occured. Do not leave any valuables in an easy-to-spot area in your car. Carjackings are rare in Melbourne. Be more vigilant in lower income areas such as Footscray or Broadmeadows and keep all doors locked and windows up after dark. DO NOT OPEN YOUR WINDOW OR DOOR FOR ANYONE, ONLY OPEN FOR VICTORIA POLICE AFTER ID HAS BEEN SIGHTED.

Pickpocketing is almost unheard of in Melbourne. Although be aware of your belongings out the front of Flinders Street station and the first block of Swanston Street (between Flinders and Collins Streets).

As with any large metropolis, be vigilant but not paranoid, as Melbourne is generally a very safe city.

Get out

Melbourne is more-or-less centrally located on the coast of Victoria, and there are many natural and manmade attractions close enough to easily visit in a day's return drive. These include:

Melbourne Area (less than an hour's drive each way)

Northern Victoria

Southern Victoria

  • Twelve Apostles.

Eastern Victoria

Western Victoria

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!




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