Medellín is a city in Colombia. It has 2 million people and is the capital of the department of Antioquia. It's set in a valley running south to north just one hour by plane from Bogotá.

Understand

Medellin was once considered one of the most dangerous cities in the world for its size, and had a highly disproportional homicide rate. It was the home of the drug lord Pablo Escobar, who virtually took over the city in the late 1980's and early 1990's. Since his demise, the city has recovered a good deal of its stability and prosperity. For example, the number of homicides 1991 was around 4000. As of June 2005, there were only 386 homicides, making Medellin one of the most secure cities in Latin America.

The wealthier classes live in the well-protected suburbs of El Poblado, Laureles and Envigado. This is far removed from the action and commotion which are found in the city's center. There are the busy markets and a thriving street life that make up much of the city's charm. The city is flooded with refugees from the ongoing civil war and the ingenuity applied to make a living is impressive. People sell anything from crayons to guinea pigs to garden earth in the bars in order make a living.

For travellers, Medellín is famous for its beautiful women, which is why it is frequented by young male travellers; in fact Medellín is the number one exporter of female models from Colombia, including Natalia Paris, Ana Sofia Henao and Tatiana de Los Rios.

Get in

Medellin is served by Jose Maria Cordoba International Airport, located in the city of Rionegro. Flights arrive here from Madrid, Bogotá, Miami, and New York City (among other places.) There are usually taxis that can take you down to the city. As of January 1, 2006, a taxi from Rio Negro to the city is 40.000 Colombian Pesos. The minibus to Medellín downtown is at 5.800 Pesos and takes approximately one hour.

Medellin has two bus terminals (north and south) and one local airport (Olaya Herrera) where only small airplanes arrive.

Get around

Travelling trough the city is easy and quick, with the Metro System, you can go to anywhere in the city with The Metroplús (Bus extension to the Metro) and the Metrocable, a sky train that has revolutionised transport in the city.

All taxis have meters, make sure they use them. Minimal fee costs about 3.000$ (1.5 USD)

There is also the TuriBus, a modern bus that goes around the city showing it's parks, beautiful sectors and historical parts; it only cost 10.000$ (about 5 US$)

If you want to go around downtown or neighborhoods near the downtown area without using Taxis, try using the Circular Coonatra (there are various routes);

See

• Pueblito Paisa is a reconstruction of a typical Antioquia village. It's located on top of el Cerro Nutibara and has a breathtaking view over the city. It's within walking distance from the metrostation "Industriales".

• Museo de Antioquia [1], Cra 52 #52-43, displays a collection of contemporary art including work of Botero. Open: Mon through Fri 9:30am-5:00pm and Sun and Hollidays 10am-4pm. Entrance COP$8 000 and students COP$4 000.

• Prado neighborhood, formerly it was the wealthy neigbourhood of the city so many huge houses were built there, it still has some of these beautiful old houses, though it should be visited with caution as it's near the center of the city.

• The Boston Park is an attractive area that leads down to the main promenade La Playa where people can be found gathering at night to see street acts.

• The "Parque de los Deseos" (Dream Park) near Antioquia's University, has an Indian context, beautifully enmarqued with the planetarium, and science experiements.

• The "Plaza de Cisneros" is in the heart of the city, it borders some beautiful buildings from the 20's, the EPM bibliothec, and a sector that was full of drug and poverty many years ago, but is now a place to visit and have a great time.

• The Metropolitan cathedral, which holds the record as one of the building on the world with more bricks, located along the Bolivar park in the city heart.

• The Parque Periodista is a parque (square) right in the center of the city. It is where the 'bohemian' and 'alternative' people meet. The bars play music varying from reggae and old salsa to alternative rock. You will find the majority of the people on the street, instead of in the bars though.

• Los Alumbrados, the christmas lights decorating Medellin, make it the most beautiful Latin American city in December. The lights stay put from the beginning of December to the beginning of January. The most impressive parts are centered around the Rio Medellin at the 'puente de Guayaquil'. Large statues made of lights can be found throughout the city.

Do

• Take the metro to Acevedo station and from there take the Metrocable up to Santo Domingo for a nice view over the city. The cablecar is included in your metroticket. Go during the day and walk around to see what working class people live like. The area at the top sees tourists so there are little stands set up and people selling empanadas and other things. You can stop at a little bar and have a beer. Don't stray too far or off the beaten path in this neighborhood, though. For those so inclined, there were young people that give tours waiting at the top wearing t-shirts that said "guia" (guide).

• Visit the city the first days on August for the local festival "Feria de las flores" (Flowers fair). There are all kind of events during one week including the "Desfile de Silleteros" (Parade of flower carriers).

Buy

Coffee: Medellin is known for its proximity to the zone where coffee is cultivated; you can find everything from Coffee Ice Cream to Arequipe de Cafe -- anything you can imagine with a coffee flavor.

Aguardiente Antioqueño: Schnaps with a special flavor, much like black licorice.

Ron de Medellin: The local Rum, excellent!

Eat

Colombia is well known for its coffee, and Medellin is no exception. As with any large city, there are the usual chain restaurants, however the American "fast-food culture" has not made a huge splash in the country.

One treat that will leave anyone stuffed is the "Tipico Antioqueño"; arepa con queso (small flatbreads with cheese on top), beans, chicken, rice, eggs, chicharron (salted meat), and patacon (deep-fried plantain pancakes). Topping that off with a Colombian beer and a cup of "chocolate" (pronounced the Spanish way - it's milky, sweet hot chocolate) makes for an excellent meal. An excelent place to eat typical food is Hatoviejo.

Medellin also has a few ethnic restaurants - around town, you can find Greek and Thai restaurants (there is a Thai restaurant in Parque Lleras). East Asian restaurants (Chinese, Japanese, and Korean) aren't in high demand, so there aren't that many around the city. Sushi may be found at larger supermarkets that are more "international."

You have to go to los Verdes de la 80, they have the best burgers, salchipapas, hot dogs, etc... if you ask any taxi driver they will know exactly where to take you, believe me you won't regret!!! Delicious...

Drink

Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the main days to party in Medellín, the rest of the week the mainstream nightlife isn't really exciting. Most bars and clubs close at 3am.

• El Blue is a popular place with cross-over muic (a mix of rock and local music). It's popular with gringos and 'gringo hunters'.

• Republica opposite of El Blue offers electronic music and local music.

• Mangos is the most famous of clubs here in Medellín and has a reputation of being visited by rich mafia-related Colombians but is also usually full of incredibly hot women (proceed with caution, some women are paid for).

• Universal is a relatively new club which rivals Mangos for size and popularity but generally has a much younger clientele.

• Palmaia is the newest, biggest and arguably best club in Medellin and has a capacity of 3000 people. Standard crossover music with a boxing ring for girl-fights!

• B-Lounge is an electronic disco with rich, beautiful women as is...

• La Kasa which are both good on Thursday nights as it's Ladies Night.

• Circus is a new venue with great views over Medellin. Very popular with the beautiful, in-crowd and normally plays cross-over music.

• Es La Bon is a great place to watch, or if you can, dance salsa. It's located in the centre so some precaution is necessary.

The area around Parque Lleras, (la Zona Rosa), has a concentration of restaurants and bars and great people watching. It is active on most nights and a must visit for those looking for Colombian night life. The major restaurants on the corner, El Rojo and Basilica are great for food, drinks and people watching. Occasionally they have live music or big screens when important football matches are played.

Parque Lleras is interesting any night of the week although admitedly Thursday, Friday and Saturday are far more lively. There are places, mostly electronic music venues open till 6 or 7am outside of the city limits as the laws forbid any bar to remain open after 3pm. People however gather around Parque Poblado until dawn drinking, smoking and chating. You can buy cigarettes, alcohol and anything else you could wish for from the street vendors until the last man standing.

Just outside of Medellin, there are many venues in Sabaneta, and a very interesting, unusual and fun art-museum/bar called Vinacure in Caldas. It's truly unique. Entry is about US$4. To get there, take a taxi to the beginning of Caldas (carrera 50 No 100D Sur 07, Caldas). Or you can take a bus.

Sleep

There are several hostels in Medellín. The following two are located in El Poblado, the safe upscale residential area, close to the nightlive.

Medellin Vacation Apartments www.medellinvacationapartments.com

• Blacksheep hostel [2], Transversal 5A #45-133 (Patio Bonito), Tel 4 311 1586, Cel 311 341 30 48. New hostel with a "staying by friends" atmosfere. The hostel offers kitchen use, two TV/DVD rooms, 3 BBQ per week, laundry facilities and internet facilities. Price for dormbed COP$15 000

• Casa Kiwi, Cra 36 #7-10, Tel: 4 268 2668, Cel: 300 740 7244. For more info see http://www.motoadventures.org

Or for a hostel nearer the centre of town try...

• Palm Tree Hostel [3], Cra 67 #48D-63, Tel: 4 260 2805.

For Apartment acccommodation try:

• The Apartment Medellin [4], Cra 42#7ASur-92 Tel: 4 321 2832

Single room rental in a luxury 3-bedroom apartment in El Poblado, close to the Zona Rosa and public transport. It is also easy walking distance to a large supermarket and one of the best shopping centers in Medellin. It is fully furnished, has free internet, cable TV and one of the best views in Medellin. The apartment complex also contains a pool, squash court, gym and 24 hour security.

• Colombia Home Apartments[5] Calle 57 41-24 Medellin we offer fully furnished Medellin Apartments with fast Internet and more Call Ana +57 3108829556 or with Skype r01636913433 or Miami +1 3054073879 and visit our page

Although there is no Hilton in Medellin, you can find hotels such as the Intercontinental, Sheraton and the Dann.

The Poblado Plaza Hotel, Cra 43A No.4Sur-75, is also very good and to a similar standard as the major chain hotels. It has a pleasant garden where meals can be taken and has free wireless internet connection in the rooms.

• Hotel Intercontinental Medellín (Calle 16 No.28-51)

• Four Points by Sheraton Medellín (Cra 43C No.6Sur-100)

• Hotel Dann Carlton Medellín (Cra 43A No.7-50 Av. El Poblado)

• Hotel Belfort (Calle 17 No.40B-30

• Hotel Las Lomas (Route: Medellín - Airport José María Córdoba Km. 26)

• Sauces del Estadio (Cra 69 No.49A-30)

• Hotel Portón Medellín (Cra 43A No.9Sur-51 Av.El Poblado)

• Hotel Casa Laureles (Calle 35 No.78-66)

• Hotel Park 10 (Cra 36B No.11-12)

• Hotel Laureles 70 (Circular 5a No.70-15)

Stay safe

Staying safe in Medellin comes down to common sense.

Women shouldn't travel alone after dark; if you must, travel with a few friends. As Colombia is still a country with a "macho man" mindset, women might be the subject of lewd comments, cat-calling, or whistling. Women shouldn't take this personally - although women have the same rights as women in the US and elsewhere, it's just the culture.

Do not, under any circumstances, make any jokes about the use of cocaine or bombs. The Colombian police take jokes as threats, and you may find yourself in a police station explaining yourself to unsympathetic police officers. Under normal circumstances, police officers are usually kind and helpful towards tourists.

The age of majority in Colombia is 18. Minors are not allowed to be in possession of alcohol at any time, and they may not enter night clubs of any kind. If a minor is found to be in a night club, the entire club will be immediately closed for violating a national law.

Always change your money at a bank (Conavi or Bancolombia are the two national banks) or at "Moneygramm".- "street changers" offer tempting rates for your dollar, but be on guard. "Street Changers" palm several of the biggest bills for themselves. Do not flaunt large amounts of money around.

Get out

• To Guatape to see La Piedra del Peñol (a.k.a. Peñon de Guatape) is a 200m high rock dominating the landscape. A climb to the top will cost you a few thousand pesos, but the view is breathtaking. There are busses going about every hour from the Medellín north bus terminal.

• To Santa Fe de Antioquia, is nice, warm and full of pretty young girls with swimsuit. It`s one of the best places in Colombia to rest and have a lot of fun.