Postcard Perfect : Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu [1] is the site of the ruins of an ancient Inca city. It is near Cuzco, in Peru, and which was discovered in the early 20th century. This is one of the most spectacular sets of ruins in the world; a visit to Peru would not be complete without seeing it.

Understand

These remarkable ruins were only rediscovered in 1911 by the American archaeologist Hiram Bingham. Perched dramatically 1000 ft above the Urubamba river, Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is also the end point of the most popular hike in South America, the Inca Trail.

The story of Machu Picchu is quite a remarkable one; it is still unknown exactly what the site was in terms of its place in Inca life. Current researchers tend to believe that Machu Picchu was a country resort for elite Incans. At any given time, there were not more than 750 people living at Machu Picchu, with far less than that during the rainy season. One thing that is clear is that it was a remarkably well hidden place, and well protected. Located far up in the mountains of Peru, visitors had to travel up long valleys littered with Inca check points and watch towers. Remarkably, the Spanish conquistadors missed the site, and Bingham only discovered the site by chance. On a wet day in 1911, he travelled up the slopes with a few companions from his expedition. On meeting local peasants, they told him about ancient ruins that covered the area. To Bingham's amazement, he had found the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu.

Get in

Visiting Machu Picchu isn't cheap. The entrance fee is 119.00 soles; for students with an ISIC it's 59 soles. Tickets should be bought in advance in Cuzco. With the train ticket to Machu Picchu Pueblo, also formerly known as Aguas Calientes and a night's accommodation it easily adds up to US$100. Doing the Inca Trail is also an alternative to get in.

For the low- to no-budget tourist there is also the possibility of doing an alternative way to Machu Picchu puebloAguas Calientes via two little villages called Santa Maria and Santa Theresa.

From Machu Picchu puebloAguas Calientes you can hop on one of the frequent buses to take you up to the ruins (US$ 6 each way). It's also possible to walk the 8 kilometres. Locals will show you for a tip how to outrun the buses, on your way down, but for the rest of us it's a two hour walk. If you are in a rush, you can also take a helicopter from Cuzco.

It's not allowed to bring big backpacks, but there is a luggage storage at the entrance for Inca Trailers.

Your ticket will tell you that it's not permissible to bring food or water bottles into the site. You will probably feel a bit silly if you don't bring them as everyone else will carry them in with success. Buying them at the site is expensive, and they do not even offer plastic bottles (glass only). Purchase food and plenty of water and bring it with you.

See

Take the time to walk around the site; there are many places to see and explore. Although it is not necessary, taking a guided tour does provide a deeper insight into the ancient city, its uses, and information on the geography of it. Also, be sure to wake up early to miss the thousands of people that visit the site each day, or stay till closing time. The first buses start running at 5:40am, which will give you an hour or two in the pleasant light of dawn but before the full force of the sun begins hammering the mountainside. (If you plan to stay past 10am, sunblock is requisite.)

• Temple of the Sun - Near the summit of the main city, the stonework on the temple is incredible. Look closely and you will see that there are a variety of stone walls throughout the city. Most are rough stones held together with mud, the common stone walls found throughout the world. But many buildings or parts of buildings are done with the more distinctive and impressive closely-fit stonework. The temple is the absolute pinnacle of this technology. Observe it from the side, descending the stone staircase in the main plaza.
• Intiwatana
• Temple of the Tree Windows
• Main Temple
• Condor - The tour guides will try to tell you that this was a temple, but look closely: between the wings of the condor is a chamber with grooves cut in the stone to secure manacles, a walkway behind where a torturer may walk to whip the prisoner's backs, and a scary looking pit to let the blood of prisoners drain. Clearly the condor was a symbol of cruel justice, but a santized version is told for the benefit of middle-aged tourists and their children.

The following sights involve some legwork:

• Walk back up the Inca trail away from the site and up the hill to the Sun Gate (or Inti Punku); from here you can see back down each valley offering a excellent views. It's a gentle walk (probably 45 mins tops round trip) and well worth it. If you stay in Aguas Callientes, it is possible to get here early enough to catch the sunrise from here.

• Walk up Waynapicchu (in Spanish Huayna Picchu); this is the "second" hill seen in the many photos. Its a steep but short walk offering very impressive views over the site. Well worth the effort! Beware the track closes at 4pm and you're not allowed to enter after 1pm. Entry is limited to 400 people per day. On busy tourist days, the limit will be reached by 10-11am. It is recommended you go straight here first thing. They will require you to sign in; remember your number (or the time you signed in) so that you can find yourself in the book to sign out again.

• If you have some time at hand or really longing for a sparkle of soltitude you can also walk to the Moon Temple (Templo de la Luna) and the Great Cave (Gran Caverne). It's a long walk and the sites aren't really rewarding, but unexpected wildlife can be seen (wild spectacled bears have been reported). This hike is also quite interesting because partway through you leave behind the mountain terrain and enter a more conventional forest. The caves can be reached either by hiking down the trail from the peak of Wachupichu (which includes some semi-harrowing but fun near-vertical descents) or by the split from the main Wachupichu trail (look for the sign that says Gran Carvern). Be sure to bring plenty of water for this long hike.

Buy

In Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, prices can be double of what they are in Cuzco.

Eat

It's officially not allowed to bring food into the archeological site. But if you're planning to stay the whole day, bring some snacks or sandwiches and plenty of water (just be sure not to litter). Buy them before leaving Aguas Calientes. The concession stand near the entrance of the site is pitiful in its offerings (where's an old lady selling bananas when you need her?) and gets very busy at lunchtime. Once in the site, it's not possible to buy food or drinks.

There is a cafeteria near the site, where the locals who work there eat. Ask one of them and if you're lucky, you'll be rewarded with a cheap, filling, and unique alternative to the expensive tourist snack-stand.

• Tinkuy Buffet Restaurant, Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, +51 84 21 1039/38, [2]. 11:30am-3:00pm. Casual lunch buffet with nice picture windows.

• Tampu Restaurant Bar (Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge guests only). 5:30am-9:00am, Noon-3:00pm, 6:30pm-9:30pm. Expensive, but it's at the ruins site.

Better food can be found by taking one of the regular buses to Aguas Calientes (the small town on the train stop to Cuzco) and many fine restaurants.

Sleep

• Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, +51 84 21 1039/38, [3] [4]. The only hotel at the site of Machu Picchu, but extraordinarily expensive; you pay a hefty premium for merely "very nice" rooms, because of the location, location, and location. It's difficult to get a reservation unless you already have one at the same company's Hotel Monasterio in Cuzco. US$715 (double) - US$1045 (suite).

Aguas Calientes offers a wide assortment of affordable lodging options.

Tour Operators

• IncaTrailReservations.com

Inca Trail Reservations - the most complete information about The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and other Inka trail treks in Peru. Photos, Trail maps and useful information.

• Peru Travel guide

Peruvian tour operator offers high quality services and programs in Machu Picchu. Inca Trail Tours.

• Explore Cusco Agency

Explore Cusco Travel Agency offers Packages to visit Machupicchu

• InkaNatura Travel Inca trail operator

Offers a complete information about the Inca trail, maps, photos and what to know before you go.

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