For other places with the same name, see Los Angeles (disambiguation).

The city of Los Angeles is located in the heart of the second largest metropolitan area in the U.S. The amazingly diverse city is most famous for Hollywood, Downtown, and numerous surrounding communities that serve as home for the rich and famous.

The Los Angeles basin, stretching from Downtown to the Pacific Ocean, viewed from Griffith Park.

Districts

• Downtown
• Eastside
• Harbor Area
• Hollywood
• South Central
• Westside

See also Los Angeles County for destinations in the Los Angeles metropolitan area.

Understand

The sprawl of Los Angeles by night

Even before O.J. drove the Bronco or "The Terminator" became Governor, Frank Lloyd Wright famously said, "Tip the world over on its side and everything loose will land in Los Angeles".

The Los Angeles metro area has been a "boom town" since the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1876, first attracting "the folks" from the Midwest with a blessedly warm and dry climate-- and then becoming a gateway to a magnificent diversity of immigration from throughout the Pacific Rim and Latin America.

L.A. is a huge, sprawling, megalopolis-- you could start in one end of L.A. and drive for more than two hours without leaving the county's influence. The metro area includes smaller cities, such as Santa Monica, Burbank, Pasadena, and Long Beach, which were founded around the end of the nineteenth century and retain distinct identities. Geographically, there is very little rhyme or reason to what is part of the city of LA and what isn't. For example, Hollywood isn't a separate city--it's part of the City of Los Angeles-- but adjacent West Hollywood and Beverly Hills are not part of the city.

The city's primary newspaper is the Los Angeles Times. The free LA Weekly comes out on Thursdays and is a good source for concerts and other local information. Local areas may have their own free papers as well.

Get in

By plane

Los Angeles is served by no less than five major commercial airports, and more than a dozen private airports.

Los Angeles International [1] (IATA: LAX) is the major gateway. The airport is mindbogglingly huge, with no less than nine terminals, and the only way to get from terminal to terminal (other than walking) is to use the free "A" shuttle buses that run in a loop between the terminals.

In LA an automobile is nearly essential, and connections to and from the airport are poor. There is no direct train service, although there are free shuttle buses to Aviation Station on the Metro Green Line, and hourly LAX FlyAway [2] shuttles to Union Station. Taxis to downtown LA cost $30-35 and take 30 minutes in good traffic, but can be far slower in rush hour. On your return to the airport, be sure to show up two hours before your flight as queues for security are often notoriously long and time-consuming.

The others are Long Beach Airport, Bob Hope (Burbank) Airport,Orange County/John Wayne Airport and far flung Ontario airport east of LA. Even though LAX is often cheapest, avoiding LAX will save a lot of hassle because the other airports are small and not as busy (especially Long Beach), but you will typically be farther away from your destination which will entail a lot of driving.

Then again, going anywhere in LA is going to require a lot of driving. If you're going to Disneyland or any of the Orange County beaches (Laguna, Huntington, Newport), consider the Orange County/John Wayne airport. For any of the airports, it is probably best to use the numerous buses and shuttles to get to and from the airport, if you are staying in the area. Locals do this to avoid dealing with the hassles and cost of parking.

Private pilots will prefer smaller general aviation airports such as Santa Monica (ICAO: KSMO), Van Nuys (ICAO: KVNY), or one of the dozens of other small airports in the area. LAX does not cater to small general aviation; Burbank (ICAO: KBUR) does but is high traffic; Long Beach (ICAO: KLGB) does but has a very complicated runway system and high traffic. Much of Los Angeles is Class Bravo or other controlled airspace, but due to the number of airports and the generally good weather Los Angeles makes a fantastic flying destination.

By train

The main Amtrak [3] station is at Union Station, 800 N. Alameda St. next to the Hollywood (US-101) freeway in downtown Los Angeles. The train station also has a Metro Red Line subway station (platforms in station's basement) and Metro Gold Line light rail station (on platforms 1 and 2, parallel to the Amtrak and Metrolink trains), while local city buses stop at various locations around the terminal, including some in the MTA (Patsaouras) bus plaza at the east portal of the station. The train station is patrolled by private security staff and people lingering too long in the seats may be asked to show a ticket. Taxis are available at the west exit and the station is within short walking distance to the Civic Center and Olvera Street. Chinatown and Little Tokyo are also nearby.

Union Station is spectacular (opened 1939), but there are several stops within the County that may be better located to your destination. L.A. is big, make sure you get the right stop. Unfortunately, while Union Station has the best bus and light rail options it may be far from other landmarks. Burbank Amtrak Station is next to the Burbank airport where options include Metrolink, bus and rental cars at the Air Terminal.

Metrolink trains are significantly less expensive than Amtrak; for example, LA to Oceanside $12.50 Metrolink, $19 Amtrak; the Metrolink trains run less frequently; some routes are shared where a ticket allows you to ride either train.

By bus

The Greyhound [4] terminal is at 1716 E 7th St, near I-10 along S. Alameda Ave. You may be approached by panhandlers around the terminal. Friendly strangers who offer you advice are likely to also ask you for money. At least two Wikitravellers have encountered friendly or helpful, but needy, Vietnam veterans here. If you need to spend time at the terminal and want to avoid panhandlers it is suggested that you stay inside the terminal. The terminal was being given some needed renovation in 2003.

The terminal is in a dodgy area, and not located conveniently near anything, so walking to other locations is not a good idea. Take a taxi or catch the Metro bus. The Metro bus stop is a short way down the street from the Greyhound terminal exit eastward. You may want to ask for directions before leaving the Greyhound station. While there are private patrols (funded by the local Business Improvement District) during the day (purple shirts, on bicycles), those patrols are not present in the evening.

Fortunately, other terminals are in far safer areas and have better access to public transportation. From the north, the North Hollywood station is located at 11239 Magnolia Bl. and is one quarter mile south of the Metro Red Line North Hollywood station. The Hollywood station is at 1715 N. Cahuenga Bl. and is one quarter mile west of the Metro Red Line Hollywood/Vine station.

Of note for passengers coming from the east is the El Monte station, at 3501 N. Santa Anita Ave. The station is co-located with a MTA and Foothill Transit bus station, and frequent express bus service to Downtown Los Angeles is available upstairs. The El Monte station also houses a substation of the local county sheriff. Also, from the east, the Pasadena Greyhound station, located one quarter mile west of the Lake Avenue Metro Gold Line station, is an option.

From the south, Greyhound passengers should use either the East Los Angeles station, located at 1241 S. Soto St., or the Compton Station, located at 305 N. Tamarind Ave. The East Los Angeles station has multiple lines operating to downtown nearby, while the Compton station is across the street from a Metro Blue Line station.

Get around

Los Angeles' massive sprawl and dysfunctional public transportation makes getting around rather painful. The only rational way of getting around is to rent a car, in which case you'll get a crash course in the complex freeway system and spend hours stewing in traffic jams.

By bus

The L.A. bus system is extensive but slow. Many Angelenos rely on the bus as their primary mode of transportation. Within the central area (from Downtown to the coast, below Sunset Blvd and above Interstate 10) the buses are frequent and ubiquitous enough to get around without a schedule. The drawback is that they are stuck in traffic just like cars. This means you may experience delays waiting for a bus, but during the morning and afternoon hours bus travel is only slightly slower than car travel once you board. Check out the MTA website and download maps and route schedules. The best routes for getting across town (east-west) are the #2 or #302(limited) on Sunset Blvd, #720 "Rapid" express service on Wilshire Blvd, and #33 or #333(limited) on Venice Blvd. Be sure to check night schedules; bus service (but not rail service) runs 24 hours but many routes change and have extremely reduced frequency in the late hours. Fares are currently $1.25 per boarding (no transfers) or $3.00 for a day pass (also good on Metro Rail); you can buy both from any Metro station or Metro bus driver. Bring a street map, as MTA buses sometimes change their routes unpredictably in order to make up lost time.

By rail

While originally designed as a Kafkaesque pork-barrel project to reward politically-connected construction companies rather than something with actual use for travelers, the Metro Rail [5] subway and light-rail system is becoming more-useful over time. A $3/day pass (good until 3am) or $56/month equals unlimited access. Be aware that the light rail system stops at 1am and starts again at 4am.

Rail lines were designed with commuters in mind, so tourists may find the five line route structure to be a bit bizarre, with many popular tourist destinations requiring multiple transfers, often involving buses. For example, a twenty-five mile trip from Pasadena to LAX airport involves travel on four lines and a shuttle bus and takes well over two hours. For other routes the subway can be a good option with travel from North Hollywood to Long Beach possible in about 45 minutes. Additionally, despite its shortfalls public transportation is often preferable to the gridlock that occurs on LA-area streets and highways.

The rail is operated by the same agency as the bus system, so their maps include the rail lines. The fare structure is also the same as for the bus system. The Metro works on a 'trust' system: you buy your tickets from machines, then get on and ride... no checking, no gates, no nothing. There are, however, Metro police that are part of the LA Sheriffs Dept. who may check for tickets on the trains or platforms, and the fines for not paying are expensive. If you ride several times chances are you will be asked to show your ticket at least once. Be careful; if your trip involves more than one line, you have to either buy separate tickets for each line or use the Day Pass.

The Metro Rail system is composed of 5 lines:

• Red Line, a subway that runs from Downtown (Union Station) through the near west side to the Hollywood area then into the San Fernando Valley. From there (North Hollywood Station) you can take the Orange Line (Busway system) to the west end of the valley.
• Orange Line, uses special sleek articulated "bus-trains" on rubber tires.
• Blue Line, runs from a subway connection with the Red Line Downtown at 7th and Figueroa Streets at street level or higher (with some interesting views) through south Los Angeles, southward to Long Beach.
• Gold Line light rail, runs from Downtown (Union Station) north to East side of Pasadena.
• Green Line runs from LAX east to the city of Norwalk along Interstate 105, connecting with the Blue Line at Rosa Parks Station in Watts. It runs west to a location just south of LAX, then on to a remote part of Redondo Beach.

Attractions that are easily reached via the rail system, for those with plenty of time to spend on the train, include: Universal Studios, Hollywood, Thai Town, the Griffith Observatory (via a brief bus transfer on Vermont), Koreatown, the Wiltern theater, Westlake, Downtown (including the Financial District, Disney Hall, City Hall, Broadway, Little Tokyo, Chinatown, the Convention Center, and the Staples Center), Old Town Pasadena, the Watts Towers, LAX (via a free shuttle bus at Aviation Station), downtown Long Beach, and, via a frequent shuttle bus from downtown Long Beach, the Queen Mary and the Aquarium of the Pacific.

Distinct from the Metro is the Metrolink [6] commuter railroad system, whose city terminus is Union Station. This commuter rail system reaches as far as Ventura, Lancaster, San Bernardino, and Oceanside (northern San Diego County), but has several severe limitations for the visitor — most notably, most lines are shut down on week-ends, and stops service to the suburbs very early in the evenings during the week, although very limited Amtrak services run on the Orange County and Ventura County Lines even when regular Metrolink trains don't. Last but not least, your Metro Day Pass isn't valid on Metrolink, so you'll need to buy separate tickets, which aren't cheap either: a one-way from Union Station to Anaheim will set you back $6.75, although return and weekend discounts are available.

By car

While many attractions are easily served by rail, and others are adequately served by bus, you will need a car to fully enjoy your visit. Yes, traffic is bad, but if you want to experience L.A., you need to get a car. Some of the most interesting parts of town can be very exhausting and time-consuming to reach via public transportation. For example, if you want to visit Malibu, any beach cities other than Santa Monica and Venice, the Korean Friendship Bell (with views of the port), the Chinese communities in the San Gabriel Valley, or any part of Orange County, you are strongly advised to travel by car. There are also many spectacular natural areas surrounding the L.A. metropolitan area that you can only reach by car. See the article about Driving in Los Angeles County for more information. If you are mostly going to be between the ocean and downtown, drive on arterial streets such as Wilshire Blvd. and Sunset Blvd. to get around instead of the freeways. This not a way of avoiding traffic but a way to see more of the city's sights and lessen the chance of getting lost by taking the wrong exits on the freeway.

If you are going to be driving around, make sure you have access to extensive street and freeway maps, a Thomas Bros Guide (a large spiral-bound street atlas), AAA offers good free maps to members from any state, or a car with an onboard navigation system. (One map in particular from AAA that even locals find useful is a pocket guide to the area's extensive freeway system.)

The freeways in L.A. can be confusing and overwhelming, and typically the speed of the freeway during the non-rush hours is much higher than the speed limit. If you have two or more people in your vehicle, regardless of your purpose, you may use the "Carpool Only" lanes (some require 3 people, but these will be clearly marked). There's also lots of construction work going around since the beginning of 2004 (especially late at night), so watch out for that too. Listening to a radio station is helpful for any long trip through L.A. since most stations regularly disseminate traffic information during the daylight hours. KNX 1070 AM and KFWB 980 AM are the most frequent and cover the metropolitan area, including Orange and Ventura counties and the Inland Empire. Note that freeways are sometimes broadcast by the segment name (i.e. Santa Monica Freeway) in addition to their route number (I-10). Proper freeway names can also change depending on these segments (I-10, for example, contains both the Santa Monica and San Bernardino Freeways.) Be wary of certain interchanges, especially the East L.A. Interchange and the loops in Downtown L.A. Although these are well signed, they can still be confusing. When receiving directions or traffic reports, keep in mind that both locals and traffic reports will refer to highway numbers with the definitive article (e.g. "the 10" instead of "I-10").

Although L.A.'s traffic is legendary, the freeway grid provides for an effective movement of traffic and a variety of alternatives. Be sure to have an alternate route planned out in advance; many freeways run parallel to each other and serve as viable alternatives, especially in long-distance trips! Traffic accident reports on the radio will give the name of the freeway interchange or cross-street. Traffic is often so far away that you won't be affected even on the same freeway and direction. If possible, use a passenger as your navigator. You may also check SigAlert for current traffic information before your trip. If you are traveling more than 10 or 15 miles on the freeway network, ask a local for the best route at that time of day.

See

• Hollywood Blvd has some of the biggest tourist attractions in the city - The Walk of Fame for it's stars, Grauman's Chinese Theatre for it's hand and foot prints, The Wax Museum and Ripley's Believe it or Not. More info in the Hollywood article.

• Muholland Drive is worth a drive if you have your own transport. It's the setting for endless movies and first kisses, and provides great views over the city. The easiest way to enter is to head north up Highland Ave into the Cahuenga Pass - you'll come to a turnoff to your left that is signed. Beware of speeding cars near this intersection.

Historical

• El Pueblo. Also known as Olvera Street, this is the historic center of LA and the city derives it's name from the mission established here (Mission De La Nuestra Senora La Reina de Los Angeles - the Mission of our Lady the Queen of the Angels). The oldest building in the city lies here and is open to visitors, as are a number of Mexican restaurants and shops; it is across the street from Union Station.

• Union Station. A historic downtown site and the main railway hub for the city.

Museums/Galleries

The Getty Center as seen from the museum's central garden.

THe Japanese American National Museum opened in 1992 in Little Tokyo.

• The Getty Center (aka the J. Paul Getty Museum), [7]. Well worth a visit. Entrance is free though you will pay $8 for parking or is served by Metro Bus 761. Located at the top of the Santa Monica mountains, you have a spectacular view of both the L.A. basin, the Pacific Ocean, as well as the beautiful buildings and the rose gardens. They also have a very extensive arts collection, should that interest you. The old museum, J. Paul Getty Villa [8], in Pacific Palisades, is also worth a visit.

• Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), [9]. Has great permanent and changing exhibitions.

• George C. Page Museum. Located across the street from LACMA.
• La Brea Tar Pits, [10]. An actual tarpit with a museum featuring fossils that have been found in the area. Located across the street from LACMA.

• Museum of Contemporary Art, [11]. Located downtown and hosts excellent changing exhibitions.

• Petersen Automotive Museum, [12]. Has a great display of rare cars, and the intersection outside is the site of Biggie Smalls murder.

• La Brea photo galleries. La Brea Ave has a string of great photo galleries with changing exhibitions - a great place to see excellent photography, and if you can afford it, to buy some.
  • Apex Fine Art, 152 N La Brea Ave, 323-634-7887, [13].
  • Fahey/Klein Gallery, 148 N La Brea Ave, 323-934-2250, [14]. Home of some great photographers such as Herb Ritts.
  • Jan Kessner Gallery, 164 N La Brea Ave, 323-938-6834, [15].
  • Paul Kopeiken Gallery, 138 N La Brea Ave, 323-937-0765, [16].

Ethnic

• Chinatown
• Little Tokyo
• Thaitown

Parks

Griffith Park is the largest park within a city in the whole country (and in LA, where you'd least expect it!), and is a great place for hikes, picnics or hanging around with friends. The hiking trails lead up to Mulholland Drive, and provide great views of the city.

Exposition Park

Do

Exercise

Want to stay in shape during your visit to LA? The city offers more options than perhaps anywhere in the world. Yoga? Yes. Pilates? Yes. Great gyms? Yes. Spinning? Yes. Tai Chi? Yes. If it exists as an exercise then yes. Most gyms offer more mainstream versions of some or all of the above - or most types of Yoga studios can easily be found.

• YogaWorks, [17]. Has several locations around the LA area including the Center for Yoga on Larchmont Blvd, and 2 locations in Santa Monica.

• LA Fitness, [18]. Has multiple locations in the city with tons of facilities.

Pro sports

LA has great opportunities for seeing live pro sports.

• LA Dodgers, Dodger's Stadium, Downtown, [19]. Who wouldn't want to grab a Dodgers Dog and get a nice sunburn watching a nice game of baseball? Don't forget to wait until the 2nd or 3rd inning to show up, as the locals do.

• LA Lakers, Staples Center, Downtown, [20]. Do they need an introduction? Arguably the most popular team in the city. Check to see if prices have dropped since the lineup changed... during their string of championships you'd have to have taken out a second mortgage on your house to pay for the seats.

• LA Clippers, [21]. A cheaper basketball alternative.

• LA Kings, Staples Center, Downtown, [22]. LA's hockey team - they need your support, hockey's not at the top of most people's list in California.

Learn

Work

Buy

Shopping

Los Angeles has a well-known, diverse and unique shopping traditions and destinations. Strip malls and shopping malls will dominate your shopping trip as they are nearly inescapable in many of your destinations. For example, the Hollywood & Highland mall is a popular meeting point for those gazing at the Walk of Fame and Mann's Chinese Theater. Other malls you may bump into are the Grove (next to the Farmer's Market) and the Beverly Center, which is quite unlike other shopping malls as it is multilevel with a nice view of Los Angeles from its food court patio.

Lacking any significant public square, Los Angeles funnels its commercial life onto its streets. Among the most popular street is Larchmont Blvd. which caters to the wealthy elite of Hancock Park with one-of-a-kind boutiques. Melrose Avenue, especially in the West Hollywood portion, one-ups Larchmont Blvd. with celebrity presence.

Broadway in Downtown will take you out of the comforts of overly manicured shopping centers and drop you onto its chaos. With merchandise geared towards the city's millions of Latinos, twenty dollars would probably get you a new wardrobe. Broadway once was the city's premier boulevard and looking up above the gritty flea markets and you would see the opulent theaters that defined luxury in early 20th-century Los Angeles.

Celebrities

Celebrities are no different from you and I although they do have more money to spend and would tend to avoid the masses when it comes to shopping. Fred Segal in West Hollywood and Santa Monica is a prime destination for stars. Due to its association with notorious young starlets such as Lindsey Lohan, Kitson in Melrose has attracted celebrity attention.

Specialty

Downtown is the destination for some focused retail therapy. Want flowers? Why there's a Flower District in Downtown! Jewelry? Fashion? Seafood? Toys? Yep, there are entire districts in Downtown dedicated to these particular products. You can buy art in Gallery Row up and down Main Street or see artists at work in the Artist District. They are located mostly just east of the towering Financial District. Beware though as they exist along with the notorious Skid Row.

Music

• Amoeba Music, 6400 Sunset Blvd., (323) 245-6400, [23]. The country's largest independent music store, Amoeba has three locations including Hollywood, Berkeley and San Francisco. Prices are slightly higher than at the discount stores, but the selection is enormous and just about any obscure record you could imagine is to be found somewhere on the shelves.

• Guitar Center, 7425 W Sunset Blvd, 323-874-1060, [24]. Want to buy an instrument, get some equipment for yours, or get something repaired? This is a great place to start.

Eat

The nearby cities of Beverly Hills, West Hollywood and Santa Monica also offer numerous dining options.

Cafes

• La Brea Bakery Cafe, 624 South La Brea Avenue, (323) 939-6813, [25]. Excellent bread, sandwiches, cookies, pastries and coffee.

• Urth Caffe, 8565 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood 90069, 310-659-0628 (also in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills), [26]. Grab a healthy bite to eat at one of three locations and run the chance of spotting a celeb. Great salads, sandwiches, coffee and teas. Very popular.

Breakfast/Brunch

• The Original Pantry Cafe, 877 S Figueroa St. The Pantry boasts it has never closed or been without a customer since it first opened in 1924. (Want proof? The front entrance has no lock on it). Come here on any morning and you will see a line stretching around the block - the wait is worth it, and the fast service will have hot plate of food in front of you within minutes of sitting down.

• Toast, 8221 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, 323-655-5018. Serves traditional American breakfast all day for a reasonable price. Also great lunch food! Popular with famous people.

Diners/Coffee shops

LA is a great place to experience traditional American diner culture... and some not-so-traditional.

• Mel's Drive-In, 8585 W Sunset Blvd (on the Sunset Strip), 310-854-7201,[27]. While it's only been a Mel's for about 10 years or so, this location has been one of the heartbeats of Los Angeles for decades. Formerly "Ben Franks", it's one of the most famous spots in the city, as far as restaurants go. Come here for traditional diner fare - cheeseburgers, french fries, milkshakes. Another location at 1660 N. Highland Ave, Hollywood, 323-465-3111.

• 101 Coffee Shop, 6145 Franklin Ave (at Gower St), Hollywood. Previously known as the Hollywood Hills Coffee Shop, this place has been popular for years, and the new owners have only improved it. Great selection of sandwiches, burgers, sweet potato french fries(!!), coffee and tea. It's not unheard of to spot celebs here.

• Swingers Diner, 8020 Beverly Blvd, (at Laurel Ave), Los Angeles, 323-653-5858. Overly trendy and very popular for an update on diner-style food. Great for breakfast at anytime of the day... and salads, sandwiches, a large menu. Prepare to be assaulted by hipness.

Budget

Los Angeles abounds with inexpensive, authentic food that represents the culinary traditions of L.A.'s many immigrant communities. You have to be willing to do a little legwork, go to neighborhoods you might not otherwise go to and often deal with charmless florescent-lit storefronts in strip malls, but your reward is hype-free, authentic cuisine from around the world served up at bargain prices.

Below are a few favorites, this list can not ever be considered complete -- restaurants open and close with regularity. Spot a restaurant that looks interesting, take a chance, and if it's good, write about it here. This section especially needs tips on Vietnamese, Korean, Iranian, Central/S. American and Japanese restaurants.

• Philippe the Original, 1001 N. Alameda St. Los Angeles, CA 90012, [28]. Aaaah...an LA landmark situated a couple of blocks north of Olvera St. and Union Station is a nostalgic shop with hay and sawdust covered floors. M-F 6am-10pm, free parking.

• Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W 8th St. For the best mole this side of Oaxaca, go to Guelaguetza in Koreatown. The interior of Guelaguetza is actually quite charming, and oftentimes a Mexican band is playing. But the star is the mole. Three types of mole on offer. Try them all, and from then forward when you are stuck eating an everyday lunch, you will dream of Guelaguetza.

• Baja Fresh Mexican Grill, 7917 W Sunset Blvd, 323-436-3844, [29]. Great for fast food that's still made fresh. A healthier alternative to some of the street stand burrito places. This central location is popular in particular, with a parking lot and a Coffee Bean next door. Very busy at lunchtime. Another is located in the heart of Hollywood Blvd near the Mann's Chinese Theatre.

• Zankou Chicken, 1716 South Sepulveda Blvd, [30]. You like Chicken? Singlehandedly giving fast food a good name is this L.A. chain of Armenian restaurants, Zankou Chicken. For instance, for about $8 you can have the chicken tarna platter, which includes a pile of the most succulent, well-roasted chicken you have ever tasted, sliced into bits, pita, salad greens, pickles and peppers, and Zankou's trademark garlic paste. America will not truly taste freedom until every McDonalds in the land is replaced by a Zankou. Maybe half a dozen locations around L.A.

• The Thai restaurant behind the 7-11 on Hollywood Boulevard by the 101. By general, learned agreement, the most authentic Thai food in the States can be found at "the Thai restaurant behind the 7-11 on Hollywood Boulevard by the 101." That's how it is known. If you are not from L.A., this can also serve as an introduction to L.A.-style directions. (The cross street, by the way, is Taft Avenue.) The pad Thai here is light and perfumed and the curries hot enough to kill. And by authentic, exactly that is meant... don't expect any catering to farang tastes here.

• Marty's, Shack on the corner of Prosser and Pico Blvd. The only spot in Los Angeles that can out do Pink's chili. Also home of the Combo, which is a hot dog and hamburger all in the form of a hamburger, amazing.

• Taco's Mexico. These ubiquitous small, red & white taco stands serve typical Mexican fast food at very low prices. They can be found almost everywhere but the Westside... probably because of the blaring Mexican polka music from the juke box :)

Superior Fast Food

LA has produced some universally acclaimed fast food joints:

• Original Tommys, (various locations around town), [31]. For cheap chili burgers, since 1946! The original is at Beverly Blvd & Rampart Ave - slightly strange location, but immensely popular (they rent a second lot across the street just for parking!).

• In-n-Out Burger. 7009 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, 90028, 800-786-1000, (several other locations around town), [32]. One of the defining fast-food chains of Southern California, and ranked one of the best in the country. Famous for it's "double-doubles". Long lines can be expected during busy hours, especially due to it's drive-thru style restaurants. A must for anyone who wants to get a taste of real "So-Cal" burgers.

• Roscoe's House of Chicken' n Waffles, 1514 N Gower St, Los Angeles 90028, 323-466-7453, [33]. For those ready to get their grub on, look no further - chicken, waffles, grits and greens. A few more locations scattered around town.

• FatBurger, 7450 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood 90046, 323-436-0862. Famous for hamburgers topped with a fried egg. Also a couple more locations around town.

• Busy Bee Market, 2413 S. Walker Avenue, San Pedro. This has got to be the best sandwich deli in L.A. The sandwiches are relatively inexpensive (±$5 a sandwich) with generous portions of meat, served fast but really long lines during the lunch hour. A little out of the way, but if you find yourself down south...

Mid-range

• Cheebo, 7533 W. Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, 323-850-7070, [34]. Everyone loves the Cheeb! A play on "cibo", Italian for food, this place has great and creative food and a fun atmosphere. All day breakfasts, excellent sandwiches, salads, pizzas by the foot and nice dinners to boot. Eat here for breakfast and you'll be back for lunch.

• Ammo, 1155 N. Highland Ave, Los Angeles 90038, [35]. Great for lunch or dinner, excellent and fashionable food.

• Canter's Deli, 419 N. Fairfax Ave, 323-651-2030, [36]. Awesome Jewish deli on Fairfax, a few blocks north of 3rd. This place has been around for over 70 years and you'll know why if you stop by. It's 24 hours too.

• Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., (east of Highland), Hollywood, 323-467-7788. For a taste of old Hollywood, this is the place. It's been famous for generations.

• Buddha's Belly, 7475 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles 90036. 323-931-8588, [37]. Tasty California style Asian food.

• Sushi Ike, 6051 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles 90028, (in a mini-mall on the corner of Gower), 323-856-9972. A small and moderately priced authentic Japanese restaurant with a great sushi bar and friendly chefs - one of the best this side of the 101.

• Cobras & Matadors, 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-932-6178. Great for Spanish tapas over a glass of Spanish wine, which you must buy from the wine shop next door since C&M don't have a license to sell it at this location, only to serve it. Another branch in Los Feliz.

• Alegria on Sunset, 3510 Sunset Blvd., Silverlake. 323-913-1422, [38]. Excellent, thoughtful, modern take on Mexican classics. A bit out of the way but worth it.

• Langer’s Deli, 704 S. Alvarado Street (across the street from MacArthur Park), (213) 483-8050, [39]. Their devoted patrons swear they make the best pastrami sandwiches in Los Angeles.

• El Arco Iris, 5684 York Boulevard (in Highland Park), [40]. For good Mexican food and margaritas in one of L.A.’s oldest neighborhoods, visit this family restaurant.

Splurge

• Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., 323-938-1447, [41]. It's been around for years, and it's Italian menu just keeps getting better.

• The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd, 310-274-8303. Fantastic food, but known even more for it's endlessly famous clientele. Many a power deal has been made over a bowl of corn soup.

• Grace, 7360 Beverly Blvd., 323-934-4400. French-inspired, but unique and delicious.

• Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd., 323-655-6566. Popular for yummy steaks and an inventive menu.

• Koi, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-659-9449. An indescribably trendy Japanese restaurant, popular with young hot celebs and those who want to be them or at least catch a glimpse. Reservations are recommended, as is dressing the part.

Dessert

• Sweet Lady Jane, 8360 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, 323-653-7145, [42]. The best dessert place in the entire world, and on the tongue of every Angeleno. If it's your birthday party, your wish is to have the biggest 3-berry cake that your host can afford. But try them all. Coffee as well for those dining in.
• Gelato Paradiso, 6922 Hollywood Blvd #107, Hollywood CA 90028. 323-464-9256, [43]. Right across the street from Grauman's Chinese Theatre you'll find one of LA's best stops for authentic house-made Italian gelato. After tasting a scoop of this stuff, you'll never want regular American ice cream again. Choose from at least a dozen traditional flavors ranging from Sicilian Pistachio, to Tiramisu, to Limoncello. The fruit flavors are usually the best. Prices are roughly $2 for one large scoop/flavor in a gourmet waffle cone, $3 for two, $4 for three, etc.

Vegetarian

The cultural diversity of Los Angeles is an evident influence on the local vegetarian food restaurant industry. Where else but L.A. can you find strictly vegan and vegetarian dining, be it Chinese, Ethiopian, Mexican, Thai, American, International Fusion, Vegan Macrobiotic, and Raw Gourmet restaurants? Vegetarian food can be as creative and diverse as the city's inhabitants. Finding 100% vegetarian restaurants in Los Angeles can still be difficult. Some of the top vegetarian picks include:

• Real Food Daily, 414 N. La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood, 310-289-9910, [44]. Vegetarians and vegans from the world over swear by Real Food Daily. Watch your favorite health and eco-conscious celebrity seal a deal over a seitan stir fry before darting off in their Mercedes SUV. Branches in Santa Monica and West Hollywood.

• Paru's, 5140 W Sunset Blvd. (just west of Normandie Ave.), [45]. Head here for excellent south Indian vegetarian food in a charming garden. Especially wonderful masala dosas.

• The Flowering Tree, 8253 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood 90046, 323-654-4332, (a couple blocks west of Crescent Heights). Another great vegetarian restaurant popular at lunchtime. Great soups, sandwiches, and veggie tacos, washed down with free cucumber water.

• Vegan Glory, 8393 Beverly Blvd., [46]. Offers a variety of soy meat-substitutes & tofu choices in the entrees. Also veggie burgers, salads, soups, and noodles. Recommend the papaya salad, spring rolls, spicy eggplant, and yummy carrot cake. The lunch specials are good bargains (soup, salad, spring roll, brown rice, and choice of entree). Friendly service in a casual, clean setting. Open daily 11am-10pm. Parking available in the lot and on the street.

• Jade Cafe 1521 Griffith Park Blvd. A small, casual yet elegant space decorated in simple modern decor. Raw Fusion cuisine is carefully prepared and beautifully presented. Unique flavors. Menu is small but interesting.

• Native Foods, 1110 Gayley Ave. (Westwood), [47]. Innvoative variety of vegan foods, featuring salads, veggie burgers, rice and noodle bowls, pizzas, and desserts. Uses an original recipes for tempeh and seitan. Indoor & outdoor seating. Accept credit cards. Open daily.

Grocery Stores/Markets

• Trader Joes, a reputable grocery store with multiple locations (the original is in Pasadena), selling many organic products with no preservatives. They normally give out great samples to the public and sell their acclaimed Charles Shaw wine, also known as "Two Buck Chuck."

• Whole Foods, [48]. A market with multiple locations and a favorite amoung the health conscious -- but also a little pricey. Their salad bar is fully stocked, they have huge fresh burritos, sushi, hot dishes ready to go, and a comprehensive selections of premade, delicious salads. This is a great place to buy food for a picnic!

Drink

Coffee & Tea

• Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, multiple locations citywide, 213-689-8087, [49]. Invented the Original Ice Blended coffee drinks that are now ubiquitous throughout the country.

• Elixir, Melrose Avenue (and sold at various locations and restaurants around town, including a branch at Hollywood & Highland), 877-4-ELIXIR, [50]. An excellent selection of teas and tonics, and a great garden out back to drink them in at the flagship Melrose Ave store. Hit the ATM first.

Alcohol

The hotel bars are generally considered by Angelenos to be the best places to have drinks.

Sleep

It's hard to summarize the plethora of hotel options in L.A. From some of the most opulent (and expensive) hotels in the world to budget hostels to apartment-hotel crash pads, there's something for everyone. Deciding where to stay will have a lot to do with what areas you plan on visiting, and how you're going to get there. As usual in Southern California, a car opens up a world of options, but be sure to check the parking arrangement at your accommodations before you arrive.

For a wider selection of options see the individual articles for Hollywood, Downtown, and the nearby towns of Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Santa Monica and Venice.

Near the airport

• Comfort Inn & Suites LAX Airport Hotel, 4922 West Century Boulevard, (310) 671-7213, [51]. Just half a mile from Los Angeles Airport with a 24-hour shuttle.

• Best Western Airpark LAX Hotel, 640 West Manchester Boulevard, (310) 677-7378, [52].

• Best Western Airport Plaza Inn LAX Airport Hotel, 1730 Centinela Avenue, (310) 568-0071, [53].

• Best Western Suites LAX Airport Hotel, 5005 West Century Boulevard, (310) 677-7733, [54].

• Days Inn LAX Airport Hotel Center, 901 West Manchester Boulevard, (310) 649-0800, [55]. Two miles from the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) and only a block away from the San Diego Freeway.

• Holiday Inn LAX Airport Hotel, 9901 La Cienega Blvd, (310) 694-5151, [56]. Located within a mile of the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX). Offers free 24-hour airport shuttle.

Downtown

• The Standard, 550 South Flower St, (213) 892-8080, [57]. This is an upscale hotel with designer rooms and a bar and swimming pool on the roof. Price starts at US$99/night. There is also a Hollywood location.

Contact

Landlines

• Pay phones are still scattered around town but slowly being removed since mobile phones are quickly making them irrelavent.

• Try your hotel or ask at the shop or restaurant you're in if you need to make a local call.

Mobile phones

It is possible to get a prepaid sim-card account, but they aren't cheap. Some companies include:

• T-mobile, [58].

• Cingular Wireless, [59].

Internet

Internet cafes are spread around town and most easily found in heavily touristed spots such as Hollywood Blvd and Melrose Ave.

• Cyber-Dog, 7801 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles 90046.

• Zen Internet Cafe, 7264 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles 90046, (near Poinsettia Ave). $2/hour.

Stay safe

Los Angeles is similar to other major metropolitan areas in that travel within certain parts of the city at night should be conducted with caution and only in groups. As with any large city, do not walk alone at night, male or female. Most areas are safe in the daytime, but traveling in groups is still a prudent precaution. Most homeless individuals are harmless and if you are asked for money a polite refusal will typically be adequate. Certain areas of Downtown where much of the homeless population spends the night are known as Skid Row. These areas can be violent and should be avoided at night even by groups. Other than that most areas are safe for groups (who pay attention) after dark. Gangs should not be a major concern. They do persist throughout the region (not only in South Central Los Angeles) but they have no reason to be interested in you.

In the unlikely (although not as unlikely as in the rest of the country) event of a major earthquake, duck and cover and stay where you are during the shaking, then go outside once the shaking stops. Buildings and other structures are unlikely to collapse. Your largest threats come from breaking windows and falling objects such as ceiling tiles and bookshelves. Try to get under a table, desk, or doorjam to reduce your exposure to these threats. You are more likely to be injured if you try to run during the shaking.

Get out

Visit the Theodore Payne Foundation for Wild Flowers and Native Plants tucked away in Sun Valley, a community in the eastern portion of the San Fernando Valley. The non-profit organization has the only nursery devoted exclusively to California native plants in Los Angeles County, with more than 400 native species and a seed store with more than 200 species available. For more information, call (818) 768-1802 or visit www.theodorepayne.org. The organization operates an annual wildflower hotline by phone and web that lists wildflower sites throughout California and hosts an annual Fall Festival with speakers, exhibits and a plant sale.

• San Fernando Valley

• San Gabriel Valley

• Santa Monica

• South Bay

• Universal City

• Catalina Island

• Venice. Home to Venice Beach and host to some of the most colorful characters in LA. Make sure to check out Gold's Gym to see some heavy lifters, the basketball games for some great action, and the skaters.