Lombok is an island in the West Nusa Tenggara province of Indonesia.

Lush Balinese resort garden, Senggigi

Cities

• Bangsal — little harbor servicing the Gili Islands
• Kuta — a surfing mecca like its Bali namesake, but that's where the similarities end
• Lembar — for boats to Bali
• Mataram — the largest city by far
• Senggigi — the main tourist strip, including the neighboring beach of Mangsit

Other destinations

• Gili Islands — three islands off the west coast, popular with backpackers
• Mount Rinjani — large, active volcano looming over the island

Understand

Located just east of Bali, Lombok has been promoted as "an unspoiled Bali" for quite some time, with beautiful beaches and the large, looming volcano of Mount Rinjani. However, an impending tourism boom was severely disrupted by riots in 2000, when mobs of Muslims and ethnic Sasak people, ostensibly protesting sectarian violence in Maluku, attacked and looted churches as well as homes and businesses owned by Christians and ethnic Chinese. The ensuing years have been quieter, but tourists have continued to stay away.

The more Islamic culture in Lombok compared than Bali may explain the reason why Lombok is quieter than Bali in terms of parties and nightlife, which can be either a positive or a negative depending on your point of view. Lombok is also becoming increasingly popular for honeymooners.

Culture

Lombok's people are 85% Sasak, culturally and linguistically closely related to the Balinese, but unlike Bali's Hindu they are Muslims. A notable non-orthodox Islamic group found only on Lombok are the Wektu Telu ("Three Prayers"), who as the name suggests pray only three times daily, instead of the five times required in the Quran.

Climate

While tropical, hot and humid, Lombok is drier than neighboring Bali, which makes it a particularly attractive option during the October-December rainy season. (It rains on Lombok too, but rarely for more than an hour.) The peak of the tourist season, though, is May through August.

Talk

The main local language is Sasak. Bahasa Indonesia is universally spoken and English is common in the resort areas.

Get in

By plane

Lombok's only airport is Mataram's Selaparang Airport (AMI), which occasionally also shows up in flight schedules as "Ampenan" (hence the seemingly odd airport code). There are frequent connections to Denpasar on Bali (30 min) and Surabaya (1 hour) on Garuda, Merpati and Germania Trisakti ("GT Air"), but only a single flight per day to Jakarta or Yogyakarta (both on Garuda). International flights are limited to Kuala Lumpur daily on Merpati and Singapore thrice weekly on Silk Air, with visas available on arrival. Lombok Network maintains a useful, mostly-updated flight schedule listing all flights to the island.

By boat

Slow boats from Padangbai on Bali leave every two hours for the four-hour trip to Lembar (Rp 7,100).

Fast ferries run from Benoa on Bali to Lembar on Lombok twice daily in season, one daily in the off season. The trip takes just 2 hours but costs US$25/30 depending on class. Perama Tour also runs daily cruises from Padangbai directly to Senggigi for Rp120,000.

Get around

Perahu fishing boats, Gili Trawangan

By bemo

Bemos (converted passenger-carrying minivans) are the main means of long-distance transport on Lombok. They can be hailed down on all larger streets, and will happily take you even short hops around Senggigi. Fares are cheap: for example, as of November 2005 the official fare from Mataram to Senggigi is Rp. 1500/person, but tourists tend to get charged a bit extra and empty bemos will expect you to charter them for a higher price yet. Travel agents can also get you on semi-regular shuttle services, which connect Senggigi, the airport, and the harbors of Lembar (for Bali) and Bangsal (for the Gilis).

By taxi

Metered taxis are a fairly new development on Lombok, but they have become quite common in Mataram and Senggigi. The largest operator is Blue Bird, although there are a few other companies competing for your custom. As of November 2005, flag fall is Rp3,850 and the meter ticks up a few hundred rupiah for every hundred meters past 2 km. Figure on Rp10,000 for hops around town and around Rp30,000 from Senggigi to Mataram.

By horse cart

Horse-pulled carts known as cidomo are very common on Lombok, and while a bit touristy in Senggigi and the Gilis, they're still a serious method of transportation elsewhere.

By boat

Traditional fishing boats known as perahu ply the waters around Lombok, and are instantly recognizable due to their rather unusual feature of having two logs attached by bars on both sides like a catamaran, for greater stability in heavy swells. They can also be chartered, either directly from owners (in which case some knowledge of Bahasa will come in handy) or via any travel agent, who will of course take their cut. Some prices to aim for are Rp.100,000 from Bangsal to the Gilis or Rp.400,000 for a full day.

By Bicycle

Traffic is relatively light throughout the island so travel by bicycle is quite possible, and provides a very different cultural experience to other means of transport. You should bring your own touring bike, as local bikes are of a very basic quality. For a full “Fact Sheet” on cycle touring in Lombok see : http://users.chariot.net.au/~gloria/indonesia.htm

See

The pepper-like sand, Tanjung Aan

• Tanjung Aan, a beautiful area near the Kuta Beach. The sand is very unique that it looks like pepper. Come early as the beach guards will be there by then. Otherwise you may get bugged by lots of hawkers (mainly children) trying to sell everything.

Weaving process

• See the local handicraft and weaving process in Desa (village) Sukarare. The price should be cheaper than in Sengigi shops.

Do

• Traditional massage. There will be a lot of women offering the massage service. For more professional service, ask the hotel staffs.

• Snorkelling. There are several good sites between the Gili Islands. If lucky, you can spot and swim with turtles.

Eat

Given that the very word lombok means "chili pepper" in Bahasa Indonesia, the local cuisine isn't quite as spicy as you might expect. Probably the best known local dish is is ayam taliwang, chicken stewed in a rich sauce of galangal, turmeric and (of course) chili.

Budget

A meal in a tourist-oriented restaurant will be around Rp. 15-20k per person. In a local restoran the same meal might be about Rp. 12k or less. On the road, simple warungs sell “nasi bunkus”, a pyramid shaped parcel of about 400gm of rice with several tasty extras for as little as Rp. 2. One very reliable option is nasi campur ( rice with several options, chosen by the purchaser) for about Rp. 5k or so. Note that rice is often served at ambient tempreature.

Drink

Indonesia's national beer, Bintang, is a pilsner that can be found in the larger centres, but usually not in Muslim areas. Note that beer is relatively expensive : a small bottle costs at least the same as a full meal in a “local” eatery.

Sleep

Nearly all of Lombok's better-quality accommodation can be found in Senggigi, while backpackers tend to make a beeline for the Gili Islands. See those articles for details; the following covers only accommodation elsewhere in Lombok.

Mid-range

• Nusa Bunga, Klui, Central Lombok, tel: +62 0370 693035 fax: +62 370 693036 web: www.nusabunga.com . Very friendly staff and superb photo gallery on the website. As described in Lonely Planet: "A well-run place, is one of the better ones. It has a splendid, idyllic beachfront position, a pool and thatched bungalows in a pretty garden". The hotel is located 4 kilometers north of Senggigi. Rates:US$35-45/night including generous breakfast.

• Novotel Lombok, Mandalika Resort Pantai Putri Nyale Pujut, Central Lombok, tel. +62-370-653333, Fax +62-370-653555, email: hotel@novotel-lombok.com. Might be a good choice If travelling with children, as the resort was apparently built with children's needs in mind -- with interesting swimming pool design, good playing and sport areas for kids. The resort is located approx. 1h drive from Mataram. Rates: US$66-77/night.

Splurge

• The Oberoi Lombok, Medana Beach, Tanjung West Lombok, Tel. +62-370-638444, Fax +62-370-632496, email: gm@theoberoi-lombok.com, [1]. The most expensive hotel in Lombok. An ideal hideaway due to its 'secluded' area. Rates: US$270-952/night (discounts available).

Stay safe

Although Lombok is a safe and stable place, these tips may help you along the way:

1. There is no written curfew, but when travelling in villages or non-tourist areas you are best to stay indoors after dark.

2. Always have locks on the zips of your bags. Not only do they keep thieving hands out they also prevent people slipping prohibited substances in.

3. Dress modestly in villages and religious sites; long pants or sarongs are suggested and a blouse that covers the woman's bust and shoulders should do the trick. This is not so much a safety measure, but it does save you and onlookers from embarrassment.

Get out

• Bali