Minar-e-Pakistan

Understand

With 6.5 million people, Lahore is Pakistan's second-largest city after Karachi. According to legend it was founded in mythical times by Lavva, the son of the epic hero Rama. After Islam came to South Asia, it became a centre of learning, and attracted some of the region's greatest mystics, writers and artists. It has been a capital for various regimes:

• The Mughal emperors (Muslims who invaded from Persia but were descended from Mongols) lived and built here extensively.
• Lahore was the capital of the Sikh-ruled state of Punjab until the British take-over in the late 19th century.
• Under the British Lahore was the capital of Punjab.
• When British India was partitioned in 1947, to create the modern states of India and Pakistan, the Punjab was also partioned. Lahore was the site of many bloody riots between Hindus, Muslims and Sikhs. Since 1947 the city has been predominantly Muslim.

A good place to pick up city guides is the Ferozesons book store on the Mall.

Get in

By plane

The Allama Iqbal International Airport is located about 20-30 minutes from the city centre. Taxis and shuttles are available to take passengers from the city to the airport -- with unmetred taxis it is advisable to set the rate beforehand. The new proposed Lahore Mass Rapid Transit System will be linked from different parts of the city to the airport.

The airport is a major hub for Pakistan International Airlines with daily departures to the rest of Pakistan, Middle East, Europe, North America, and South East Asia.

Other airlines operating in and out of Lahore are Thai Airways, Emirates, Gulf Air, Qatar Airways, Kuwait Airways, Etihad Airways, Shaheen Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Air Blue, Aero Asia, Saudi Arabian Airlines, Indian Airlines, and many more.

By train

Lahore Train Station

The main railway station is located near the city centre. There are routes from all major Pakistani cities. The Samjhauta Express briefly ran between Lahore and Amritsar, across the border in India, but was suspended in 2002. It is scheduled to resume service in 2007.

By car

A motorway connects Lahore to Islamabad and points further north. Note that while Pakistani traffic is generally chaotic and highly dangerous, the motorway is one of the few places traffic laws are somewhat enforced.

By bus

The Daewoo Bus Station. It is nicer on the inside than it looks from the front.

Get around

Pedestrian travel is possible, and advisable in the Inner City -- try locating a guidebook on historical walks in the area. Due to the traffic, distances, extreme heat, and hordes of goggling locals, however, most tourists will prefer to use other means of transport.

Rickshaws are the cheapest and, for women, the safest individual forms of public transport. Haggle thoroughly with the driver; if you do not speak Punjabi or Urdu or are clearly a foreigner, try to get a Lahori friend to ensure you don't get ripped off. Try to find a rickshaw with a well-padded seat, otherwise you will come out bruised and aching.

Motorcycle rickshaws or 'Qingqi'(pronounced chingchi) are open rickshaws with (narrow) rear-facing seats, or with two seats facing forward and two backward. They are handy for moving around in the Inner City, since it's easier to see where you're going. Tourists used to average western road etiquette might be horrified by the chaos on the roads - but it seems to work. Qingqi drivers have an unbelievable sense of space, speed and angles and you will soon learn to trust them.

Taxis are often unmetered and often privately operated. Most taxidrivers and, indeed, rickshaw drivers, carry mobile phones; it may be useful to take a number down if you find someone especially reliable. Do not take taxis in the Inner City, as the streets are narrow and very crowded. Either walk or take a qingqi.

Miniwagons are probably the most dangerous form of public transport, with very rash drivers. Women will find these especially uncomfortable, as they are very crowded. Often women must sit in an undersized cubicle or with the driver, to prevent harassment.

Buses are usually cleaner and more comfortable than miniwagons. There is usually a separate seating area for women. The Daewoo buses having segregated sitting areas and being airconditioned during the scorching heat of Lahore are particularly recommended.

Talk

The most common languages are Punjabi and Urdu. Education is geneally high in Lahore and the majority of residents understand and speak English.

See

Lahore Fort from the Elephant Gate. Some say it is named because an elephant can enter but my guide said the name came from the elephant foot shaped pillars.

The Badshahi Masjid is next to Lahore Fort.

• The Lahore Fort is a huge mass of a structure where the Mughals built their imperial quarters, followed by the Sikhs. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is a small museum dedicated to the Sikh period of the 18th century. A friendly museum caretaker might agree to take you into the summer rooms underground. The tomb of Sikh ruler, Ranjit Singh, is also located in Lahore. Entrance fee for non-Pakistanis is Rs. 200.

• The Badshahi Mosque was built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb and was long the largest mosque in the world. Try going late at night, when there are few people there. Do not wear shorts to this or any mosque; women are advised to wear long or half-sleeved clothing, and to carry a shawl so they can cover their heads inside mosques. Entrance is free but you may be asked for a donation.

It is very worthwhile to bargain on the rates tour guides ask.

• The Inner City is full of little shrines and palaces, of which the most impressive are the Imperial Baths and the Asif Jah Haveli (recently restored). Try finding a guidebook detailing walks in the inner city.

• Across the Ravi is the town of Shahdara, where the tomb of the emperor Jehangir and his charismatic wife Nurjehan is located.

• The Daata Darbar is the shrine to Lahore's patron saint, Hazrat Daata Ganj Bakhsh. This vast modern structure is always filled with people praying, collecting or bestowing arms, or eating at the huge charity 'langar' or soup kitchen.

• The Mall has several historic buildings of the British Raj era including the Lahore Museum (which displays the Fasting Buddha of Gandhara), the General Post Office, and the National College of Arts of which Rudyard Kipling's father was the principal. Kim's Gun is outside the NCA.

• The National Assembly Building along with the summit memorium are also located in the same locale more commonly known as the charing cross. Few know the presence of a library/ museum below the charing cross roundowabout that is all about the OIC and islamic summit and is a treat to visit.

• Lawrence Gardens, also known as the Bagh-e-Jinnah, is a lovely green patch on the Mall, lying adjacent to the larger, but less pleasant, Racecourse Park, where there are polo grounds as well as a riding club where horse-back riding is taught. Lawrance Garden, just to add, is the official botanical gardens for the Government College Lahore, which is located on the Mall. Further east is Jallo Park, a large park lying near the Sozo Water Park.

• On Lawrence Road is the huge mansion that has been converted into the Lahore Art Gallery. The Lahore Museum also has an art exhibit, including miniature and Pakistani modern art. The National College of Arts has a thesis show every winter. The Croweaters Gallery on The Mall has regular shows and art for sale. Further afield, in Garden Town, is the Shakir Ali Museum, which displays the paintings of Shakir Ali.

Do

• On Thursdays there is a regular Sufi dance at the shrine of Shah Jamal. The renowned drummer Pappoo Saein and his disciples perform on the huge two-sided dhol, and devotees of the saint enter trances and dance wildly as hundreds of people watch. There is a separate seating area for women and foreigners; this is very comfortable and has the best view in the enclosure.
• Coming towards the more modern Lahore, we have our very own clean and visit-able movie cinema Sozo World in fortress stadium. Fortress Stadium is also a shopping area if you are a die hard fan of inexpensive linens, clothes etc. It also has the only Joyland (amusement park) of the city as well as Sindbad Amusement centre.
• Go to see some cricket. Pakistanis, like their Indian neighbours, love cricket passionately. The Gadaffi Stadium in Lahore often hosts international matches and is relatively comfortable. If you're brave enough try some of the colourful and apetising snacks brought into the stands by a myriad of sellers of all ages.

Learn

The chief schools of Lahore include the English-style public school Aitchison College (for boys), Lahore Grammar School, the Convent of Jesus and Mary (for girls).

Lahore is the centre of Pakistani higher education. The University of the Punjab is the oldest such institution in the subcontinent, and the library has a fine, if rather faded, collection dating back to Raj times.

The Government College also dates to the Raj, and is ensconced in a magnificent campus of that era. Other old institutions include Kinnaird College and Lahore College (both for women only).

King Edward Medical College is one of the two most presigious medical schools in the country. Other medical schools include Fatima Jinnah, and Allama Iqbal.

The National College of Arts teaches graphic design, fine arts (including the only programme in miniature painting), architecture and music.

The Lahore University of Management Sciences is the most prestigious university in the country. At present it offers courses in economics, computer sciences, social science and law.

The Lahore School of Economics offers an intense and very well-reputed business and economics programme in its cramped city quarters and its vast campus far outside the city.

The Beaconhouse National University is a new institution and offers a liberal arts education.

Work

King Edward Medical College, which is ranked as best and top Medical College and Universtiy of Pakistan offering knowledge to not only the Pakistanis but also the forigners.

Buy

The traditional bazaars of the inner city are roughly divided according to ware. Bargaining is de rigueur.

The Anarkali bazaar, named after a courtesan who was buried alive for loving a prince, is one of the chief shopping areas.

Trendy types congregate in the Gulberg and Defence suburbs. Liberty Market is a large circular market with hundreds of shops selling clothing, electronics, and so on. A basement shop in Liberty (tell the rickshaw driver it's near H Karim Bakhsh) has good handicrafts, and can be bargained with.

Nearby MM Alam Road is the hippest part of town, with all the most expensive designer shops, including fine furniture and clothing, both Western and Pakistani, and the best restaurants.

Raja Centre in Gulberg has a good selection of handloom 'khadi' fabric, both stitched and unstitched. Higher end khadi can be bought at the Khaadi shop in Mini Market.

Hafeez Centre is one of the continent's biggest computer markets, with inexpensive software, and hardware that can be bargained for.

Fortress Stadium has a huge variety of very inexpensive DVDs.

The Defence equivalent of MM Alam Road is the Sector Z market.

Eat

Lahoris are famed for their food and for their consumption thereof. This is reflected in the array of restaurants in town. In addition, the city of Lahore converted some of its most famous eating areas into pedestrian-only streets. The so-called 'Food Street' of Gowalmandi is a must-visit.

Budget

It is not advisable to eat at roadside dhabas, for fear of food poisoning. Intrepid travellers with informed local guides, however, are in for a treat. Every Lahori food item has an expert attached to it. For nihari, go to Mohammadi Nihari in Mozang, and in the winter, get a rooftop table; for chicken paratha rolls go to Karachi Silver Spoon in Liberty Market. And so on. Visit Gowalmandi at night and you'll find a streetful of shops selling fine Lahori fare, and the setting, amidst traditional jharoka architecture, is lovely.

Mid-range

For a truly amazing Lahore experience, book yourself a table at Cuku's Cafe on the topmost floor. This is in a converted house in the redlight area, owned by the artist Iqbal Hussain. It is separated from the Badshahi Mosque by a single street, and the view at night is staggering. The food is all brought from the neighbouring roadside restaurants, and is pulled up using the pulley system women in the Inner City use for their daily shopping. After dinner, take a walk in the starlit mosque.

Perhaps the best midrange Lahori food (and safe to eat, too!) is at Mirchi on MM Alam Road. Try the tamatar paneer cut and the sheesh tauk.

Chakhara, in Mini Market near MM Alam Road, is also safe to eat, and serves snacky food like samosas, chaat and dahi bhallay.

Bandu Khan Restaurant (Liberty Market, Gulberg III; 575-6108) offers good standard Pakistani food. The mutton karahi at Rs 510 was delicious and easily serves two people while most dishes are half that price. Although the salads were recommended by one local person, one Wikitravel contributor would suggest foreigners avoid them.

Other midrange restaurants are concentrated in Defence and Gulberg. Freddy's, on MM Alam Road, is a family-oriented restaurant which has a safe, vaguely continental menu. Freddy's offers an afternoon high tea buffet which offers a full variety foods and some drinks. for approximately Rs. 500.

Salt n Pepper is a good chain, with both Pakistani and continental food.

Lahore has seen the birth of several cafes recently; the best for cakes, desserts and coffee is Masoom's on MM Alam Road, while the best sandwiches can be had at Coffee, Tea and Company nearby. In Defence Hot Fuzon is a Masoom's franchise.

Chinese food is very popular in Lahore, but be warned that it is very strongly altered to local tastes.

Hsin Kuang, a pagoda-like structure near Mini Market, is very popular, but the quality varies. It is renowned for its strong-flavoured 19-B soup. Dishes are typically in the Rs 200 to 300 range. (9-C-K Gulberg II; Tel: 575-7200)

There are also several foreign chains, including Nando's, McDonald's, KFC, Subway and Dunkin Donuts.

Splurge

The best non-Pakistani food in town is at the pricy Cafe Aylanto. Try the shrimp and avocado salad.

Zouk is one of Lahore's institutions, despite the distressing decor. It serves a mix of Continental and Thai food.

The Village is a vast mud structure on MM Alam Road which has a popular all-you-can-eat buffet with Pakistani food. It's a popular joint to take visiting tourists, as it combines a variety of local foods with good hygiene, but it's not the tastiest. Instead try the Salt n Pepper Grill, owned by the same company, which has a fine ala carte menu. Try their sweet lassi.

The only Japanese restaurant in town is also the most expensive around: Fujiyama in the Avari Hotel.

Pizzerio Uno Chicago Grill (576-3743), on M.M. Alam Road, is a good place for upscale Italian. For Rs. 236 they service a delicious steak and cheese sandwich with 1/2 pound of beef!

Drink

Even though alcohol is illegal in Pakistan, it can easily be found through locals. Don't expect fine wines; Jack Daniels and vodka are the drinks of choice. Holders of foreign passports can have overpriced drinks at hotels.

Sleep

There are many hotels in Lahore that offer great accomodation. The 5-6 star Pearl Continental is one of the greatest hotels in the country as well as the Lahore Holiday Inn. Many other hotels are also coming up soon.

Budget

Regale Internet Inn. It's at Regal Chowk on The Mall. There are a few fakes, so make sure you make it to the real one, which is down an alley and upstairs. The owner, Malik, is a former journalist and a fascinating guy. He can show you some amazing off the wall stuff in the city, including arranging a trip to Shah Jamal. While very costlly by South Asian standerds (the dorm costs as much as a double room in Delhi) it's probublly worth it for security.

Mid-range

• The Sunfort Hotel in Liberty Market.

• The Kashmir Palace Hotel is on 14-Empress Road, not far from the train station. It is conveniently located in the center of the city although not much is located within walking distance. The rooms are large, for the price, and relatively clean. The staff is very helpful and honest. Although services are limited, the hotel manager says there are plans for a business center, roof top cafe and other upgrades. Posted rates are Single Rs. 3,500; Double Rs. 4,500; and Suite Rs. 5,500. Rate paid was Single Rs. 2,500 plus Rs. 605 taxes. 631-6700; hotelkashmir@brain.net.pk

Splurge

The Pearl Continental Hotel (ask for the new wing).

Avari Hotel.

The Holiday Inn.

Contact

• One Wikitravel contributor had a good experience with licensed tour guide Anjum Butt (Mobile: 300 425-0874) at Lahore Fort. He is polite, speaks good English and says he is available for guided tours of other parts of the city.

Stay safe

On the whole, visitors will find the locals very curious, very eager to help, and often eager to relieve tourists of their money, though certainly not of their lives. Even the biggest and most fearsome green-turbaned men will usually be friendly and helpful. The chances of being blown up are quite low. Being friendly and smiling at people goes a long way. If you're a woman, though, it's best to be sparing with smiles lest people get too friendly.

That said, it's wise to follow the norms of the place. Don't wear shorts, avoid striking up conversations with women if you're male. Unless they're much older, or you're in a social situation. If you're a woman, dress appropriately: wear trousers or a long skirt, and avoid sleeveless or very short-sleeved shirts. Try to wear shirts that are baggy -- you might want to go to Raja Centre in Gulberg, which has an excellent variety of inexpensive 'kurti' shirts in handloom fabrics. It's wise to have a dupatta, which is a scarf worn over your shoulders and which can be drawn to cover your head if you enter a mosque.

Avoid travelling at night, especially alone. Trusted friends will probably be very willing to drive you around. Rickshaws are safer than taxis.

Beware of pickpockets when you are in crowded ares like Liberty market, the Airport, Bus stands, the Railway station, Anarkali, Ichra shopping centre, or Mall road. There are also con men looking out for foreigners. Beware of fake policemen or men claiming to belong to the intelligence agencies, even if they show you a business card. See also Common scams. In an emergency you can call police help line 15.

Cope

Medical care is excellent for those who can afford it. Don't go to a public hospital if you can avoid it. The Fatima Memorial Hospital is usually a fair bet, with decent rates, good hygiene, and good care. Remember to get your shots before coming out here.

Get out

The gardens of Shalimar outside town are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.