Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан, formally the Kyrgyz Republic (Кыргыз Республикасы) is a Central Asian country of incredible natural beauty and proud nomadic traditions. Annexed by Russia in 1876; it achieved independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Current concerns include: privatization of state-owned enterprises, expansion of democracy and political freedoms, interethnic relations, and combating terrorism.
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UnderstandHistoryThe Kyrgyz are descendants of tribes from the Tuva region of Russia, which migrated to the area now known as Kyrgyzstan in the 13th century, during the rise of the Mongol empire. In 1876 the area was incorporated into the Russian empire and later the Soviet Union. When that union disolved in 1991, Kyrgyzstan became independent. In March, 2005 a popular uprising known as the Tulip Revolution forced Soviet-era president Askar Akayev to flee the country. He was replaced by president Kurmanbek Bakiev. ClimateDry continental to polar in high Tien Shan; subtropical in southwest (Fergana Valley); temperate in northern foothill zone. LandscapeEntirely mountainous, dominated by the Tien Shan range; many tall peaks, glaciers, and high-altitude lakes. Highest point: Jengish Chokusu (Pik Pobedy) 7,439 m. Get inBy planeBy trainBy carDriving in Kyrgyzstan is, by my european standards, dangerous. Obviously locals have become used to missing road drain covers, dry dusty roads (where water tankers sometimes sprinkle water to keep dust down) and generally bad roads that are not effectivly maintained. Interesting usage of main and large roads: If your side is too damaged to drive fast then is quite normal to use the other side of the road. If you get stopped by the police its likely to cost some money. Watch out for mini buses pulling out too. By busGet InBy planeTurkish Airlines and Aeroflot offer direct flights to Manas International Airport in Bishkek (approx. 30km northwest of the city) from Istanbul and Moscow respectively. Additionally, British Airways offers a service (operated by BMed) from London to Bishkek, with a brief refueling stop at Yerevan. Get AroundBishkekKyrgyzstan's capital, like many places in the former Soviet Union, has an extensive network of minibuses, known as Marshrutkas. They typically have around 14 seats, with standing room for around ten extra people during busy periods. Marshrutkas are easily identifiable and display their number and basic route information (in Russian) on the front. To flag one down, simply hold out your right hand, parallel to the ground. Once you get on, pay the fare to the driver (typically five som; sometimes seven som for longer journeys). When you want to get off say, "asta naveetsa." Note that although there are bus stops Marshrutkas can be hailed anywhere and will drop you off at any point on their route. Bishkek also has a trolley bus system which is less extensive and generally slower. These only stop at designated bus stops. Travellers enter at the back door and leave at the front, paying the four som fare on the way out. As in Russia you may try to hail private cars who will easily, on negotiation, serve as taxis. Please do not antagonize taxi drivers and avoid boarding a taxi while intoxicated or under the influence of drugs. Drivers are generally decent folk but easily stirred to ire and even violence. Single women should under NO CIRCUMSTANCES board taxis at night. TalkThe languages of Kyrgyzstan are Russian and Kyrgyz, a Turkic language related to Uzbek, Kazakh, and, of course, Turkish. Kyrgyz is more common in rural areas whereas Russian is the urban language of choice (in fact it's not uncommon to meet ethnic Kyrgyz people in Bishkek who cannot speak Kyrgyz). English, while becoming more popular, is still rarely spoken so in order to effectively communicate one must at the very least learn a few basic words (yes, no, please, thank you, etc.) in Russian or Kyrgyz, depending on the location. Like the rest of the former Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan uses the Cyrillic alphabet, which can present a problem for Western travellers. However, the characters are not too hard to learn and once that is done you'll find that many of the words are familiar. For example, "ресторан" is pronounced, "rest-o-ran," which means, "restaurant." See the Wikitravel Russian phrasebook for more information. BuyCashThe official currency in Kyrgyzstan is the Som (abbreviated 'c' in Cyrillic). It comes in 0.1, 0.5, 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 som notes. There are no coins. Exchange rates, as of May 11, 2005, are as follows:
Changing money is relatively straightforward. Banks will accept a variety of major currencies while the money-changing booths that are ubiquitous in urban areas will typically only deal with US Dollars, Pounds, Euros and the currencies of the neigboring, Central Asian countries. Note, however, that neither banks nor money changers will accept any foreign currency that is torn, marked or defaced in any way, or is excessively crumpled, so be sure to carefully check any notes you intend to bring into the country for defects. Credit Cards & ATMsLike other Central Asian countries, Kyrgyzstan is overwhelmingly a cash economy. Credit cards are rarely used and ATMs are extremely rare. It is therefore advisable to enter the country with an adequate supply of cash in a major foreign currency - US Dollars are the most practical choice since they are more widely accepted. CostsEatAs in any country, food is a multitiered product, with outstanding quality available at western style bistros and questionable quality food available at street corners. In general you do not go wrong if you eat "shashliks" (what westerners know as shish-kebabs) wherever you go. Quality feeding can cost a foreigner between ten and thirday dollars a day. There are no free rides here. It is advisable to invest in quality eating as one might find at the Navigator. Those with health concerns and vegetarian fixations may wish to either revise their habits or be prepared to risk purchasing fresh foods at the Osh Market. While outstanding vegetables are available here the risk of hepatitis remains a concern. Kyrgyz delicacies are based on lamb and these are truly astounding. "Monte" is a steamed dumpling filled with finely cut lamb (lower grade variants are filled with ground beef). Ashlam Fu is a noodle and meat based meal. Plov is a form of risotto. All are excellent and a must for travellers. Somewhat more exotic fare includes boiled sheeps head of which the eyes are considered a particular delicacy. Tradionally the Kyrgyz are a pastoral people so much of their food is based on meat and milk derivatives. There are no McDonalds or KFCs in Kyrgyzstan though some immitators are present. DrinkVery cheap vodka is available for $2 or $3 a 500ml bottle. We advise highly against such drinks as they may be the product of home stills ("samagonka") and of highly dubious quality. Stay with reputed brands. Cognac is actually quite good provided it comes from Armenia. Bottled water is widely available and beer is good to excellent. The Russian "Baltika" brand is reliable. SleepMany private citizens rent out their flats to foreigners and a fairly decent flat can be had for $30 a week. Noting that the average salary is between $20 and $30 you may think you are paying excessively. Look for cable, toilet and bath, and clean quarters. This is the least you should expect for $30 a week. More adventurous visitors may wish to stay in a "yurta." These are boiled wool tents used by nomads. Some tourist agencies in Bishkek will arrange this sort of stay, but be prepared to truly live the lifestyle of the nomad which includes culinary delicacies which may seem foreign to the western tongue. LearnWorkStay safeWhile the US travel advisory tells foreigners that some attacks on Westerners have occured, the view of Kyrgyz people on this is varied. Fights and assaults generally focus around nightclubs and bars, just as in any other large city. There is to date no indication that Bishkek is particularly dangerous to foreigners. As for other cities in the KR little evidence is available. Tourists will of course be drawn by Kyrgyzstan's amazing natural beautry but travel by car through mountain passes and villages is not advisable. Some friction exists between the Kyrgyz people and ethnic Russians and travellers on these lonely passes may be mistaken for Russians and have their cars stoned. Villages are generally safe but are best avoided. Especially avoid driving in a rented car from Kyrgyzstan to Kazakhstan. The border area can be subject to roadblocks where carjackers impersonate security officials. The border zones are somewhat akin to a wild frontier and are best crossed in a tour bus. Even seasoned Kyrgyz travellers approach these areas with extreme caution. On the other hand, lake Issykul is a well developed tourist area as is the nearby Tien Shan mountain range and these may be approached on standard byways with little threat of carjacking or rock attack or ambush. Stay healthyRespectWestern norms of respect are standard. Though nominally a muslim country the Kyrgyz people are highly westernized. No special dress codes are in effect. Evenings can be charged as alcohol intoxication can be quite prevalent at this time. Proceed with caution. Contact
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