Krasnoyarsk (Красноярск) is a city in Eastern Siberia, Russia. It's located on both banks of the Enisei river.

Krasnoyarsk Chapel is a symbol of the city

Understand

Like in most cities of ex-USSR, it's quite difficult to go without some knowledge of Russian. However, people under the age of 40 with higher education are capable of speaking some English. But don't expect English from hotel workers or maintenance staff in tourist places, policemen, salesmen and taxi drivers.

Krasnoyarsk, a view from paraplan

Get in

It's not very easy to get into Kasnoyarsk from abroad, so one is adviced to fly to Moscow, Novosibirsk or Irkutsk first.

By plane

There are several planes every day from/to Moscow (airp. Domodedovo) to the local airport Emelianovo (Емельяново). Also there is air connection with most largest Russian cities, and a few regular flights from abroad - Beijing, Tianjin, Harbin, major cities of nearest ex-USSR countries (Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan). KrasAir is a monopolist in the region, so you should check it's web-site www.krasair.ru for currently available directions.

Krasnoyarsk, Railway Station

Second Krasnoyarsk airport Tcheremshanka (Черемшанка) serves regional flights only, usually between Krasnoyarsk and northern parts of Krasnoyarsk region.

By train

Krasnoyarsk is located on the Trans-Siberian Railway, so every day dozens of trains pass the Krasnoyarsk railway station. It takes about 12-14 hours to get to Krasnoyarsk from Novosibirsk and Irkutsk, minimum 60 hours from Moscow and Vladivostok.

By car

There is a road connecting Vladivostok and Moscow, which passes through Krasnoyarsk. However, Russian automobile roads are not very suitable for long-distance travels - no motels, no eateries, quality of roadbed does not allow to drive fast.

By bus

Buses are available only from nearest region cities, and the neighbouring Khakassia region. They arrive to the City Bus Station (Avtovokzal or Автовокзал) located in the Northern part of the city called Vzletka (Взлетка). To date you're unlikely to obtain any information about avaiable directions and current time-table on-line. Usual price for trip up to 400 km is about 200-300 rubles (8-12USD).

By boat

During summer there are 1 and 2 weeks-long cruises to the Northern part of the Krasnoyarsk region to the Enisei mouth. Everyday connection is only with the Divnogorsk city located 40km West, near the Krasnoyarsk Hydroelectric Power Station.

Get around

There is a good network of public buses, which are indeed very cheap (6-10 rubles, or less than 50 US cents, per trip, and it does not depend on the distance; paid inside to the driver - in case of small buses called 'marshrootka' - or to the conductor). However, without a local consultant it's very difficult to plan a way, because no maps of routes on-line or on the bus stops are usually available. Numerous taxi carriers have appeared during the last years, phone booking is available (but unlikely your English will be understood) as well as hitching on the streets. In Russia it's a very common case when any driver who wants to earn some money stops near your risen hand, but in Krasnoyarsk you're strongly adviced to use only authorized carriers (it's a very safe city, but do not risk without necessity - many licensed drivers are available there), their cars must be marked with chess-board-like ornament on the top, and usually have some advertisement on the doors. Usually taxies are cheap as well (even if not using a meter) and honest, however seeing a foreigner some drivers can try to make you pay through the nose. Half-a-city drive should not be more than 150 rubles (6USD), if you suspect cheating - show your intent to complain to the driver's bosses.

See

Krasnoyarsk is a very old beautiful city, established by Russian Cossaks (military servants) in 1628. It's name consists of two words - Krasnyi (red, because of clay reddish soil) and Yar (steep bank). Views of Enisei river and nearest Sayan mountains covered by taiga forest are very pictorial.

Krasnoyarsk, Forest Reserve Stolby. Peria (Feathers) rock

Forest Reserve Stolby (Заповедник Столбы, or Pillars in English ) is a very famous place among alpinists all over the world. Stolby covers an area of 470 km² (181 mile²) with numerous giant granite rocks formations up to 100 meters high, many of very extraordinary shapes - Ded (Grandfather or Дед), Babka (Grandmother or Бабка), Slon (Elephant or Слон), Peria (Feathers or Перья). The last one is the most dangerous rock, which has already taken tens of climbers' lives. Stolby is a major rock climbing location, many local climbers intentionally do not use any belaying equipment and call their extreme sport "stolbizm", which is known around the world as solo climbing. You should take a bus to the 'Bazaikha' (Базаиха) or 'Turbaza' (Турбаза) - currently it's number is 50a - and then walk 7 km through the forest to the First Pillar (Pervyi Stolb or Первый Столб). Most of the distance goes upwards, the last 400m are extremely steep and because of that are called Pykhtun (Panter or Пыхтун). There is also a cable car way to the Reserve. Check the web-site for more details: http://www.stolby.ru/eng/.

Divnogorsk city (Дивногорск, means "Wonderful Mountains") - 40 km West, half an hour by river (only in summer) or by train from Main Railway Station (железнодорожный вокзал). The views to the river and mountains are excellent. Hydroelectric Dam is located there, during water discharge in summer it looks fantastic.

Karaulnaya Gora (Караульная гора) hill with the Paraskeva Pyatnitsa Chapel is a symbol of the city, it is depicted on the 10 rubles note. The surrounding areas are local Harlem (populated with criminals and drug-trafficers), so you should not try to walk there.

Vasily Surikov Museum is a museum of the most famous local historic painter, where he had lived before moved to Moscow to become a member of the National Academy of Arts. It's a two-storey wooden house build by the painter's father. The house is located on the Lenin (Ленина) street in the Central district.

Krasnoyarsk Regional Museum is Egypt-style ex-private building

Krasnoyarks Regional Museum has been restored recently. It has very good expositions on the history of the Siberian region, and many archeological findings.

Andrey Dubensky monument is located near the Enisey river spit on the top of hill. The leader of Cossaks Andrey Dubensky founded the stackaded town by order of the Tsar Mikhail Romanov during Siberia development process in 17th century. The monument was established in 2003 by 375th anniversary of the city.

Flower monuments are located all over the city. Large figures (2-5m) made of flowers can be seen only in summer. The first figure is Bear, it stands near the City Hall or Мэрия (city goverment building famous for its adopted Big Ben). Also there are Giraffes (a family of, stand on the Lenin street behind the Regional Government building - the Grey House or Серый дом), Rooster (near the Theatre of Musical Comedy or Театр Музыкальной Комедии), Elephants (a family of, on the Kopylov - Копылова - street).

Zoological park Roev Ruchey (зоопарк Роев ручей) is located near the entrance to Stolby Reserve (you should alight one bus stop after). It is a very good zoo, where animals stay in good conditions and gladden children and adults as well during the whole year. Animal collection is one of the richest in Russia. The most famous inhabitant is a polar bear Sedov, presented by Krasnoyarsk Region governor Alexander Khloponin in 2003.

Do

Krasnoyarsk Hydroelectric Power Station

Summer of 2006 have been very interesting due to overflow of water in Enisey river. On the Hydroelectric Power Station Dam there was a huge waterfall, really exciting view! If you're lucky to arrive to the city at the time of water discharge - you're strongly adviced to travel to Divnogorsk (Дивногорск) and see it.

The Night of Ad(vertisement) Eaters is shown every year in June in the local Opera Theatre. The collection advertisement trailers by Jean-Mari Boursicot is presented to the local elite. The tickets are usually quite expensive (100+USD), but the event is worth it.

City day is in June. A very exciting Carnival is arranged with different topics each year.

Learn

Krasnoyarsk, Communalnyi bridge (Коммунальный мост) is the main bridge over the Enisei river

Next to Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk is a very prominent scientific and educational center of Siberia with more than 30 higher education facilities, many of which are the branches of the Russian Academy of Science, and about 200 high schools. The most notable higher education institutes are:

- Krasnoyarsk State University (Russian abbreviation is KGU), founded in 1963 as a division of Novosibirsk State University, became standalone university in 1969

- Krasnoyarsk State Technical University (Russian abbreviation is KGTU), founded in 1956

- Krasnoyarsk State University of Education (Russian abbreviation is KGPU), founded in 1932

- Siberian State Technological University (Russian abbreviation is SibGTU), the oldest in the city, founded in 1930 as the Siberian Institute of Forest

- Siberian State Aerospace University (Russian abbreviation is SibGAU), founded in 1960

- Krasnoyarsk State Medical Academy (Russian abbreviation is KrasGMA), founded in 1942

Similarly to Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk has the special city district called Akademgorodok (Academic Town in Russian) where many of the institutes are located. There, in the Institute of Biophysics, the experiment on ecological isolation of human beings called "Bios", similar to the US experiment Biosphere 2, has been successfully held in 1973-1985.

Work

Like any industrial center, Krasnoyarsk has a large number of employment opportunities. However, the salaries are not very high (up to 500 USD/month is 'good', 1000+USD/month is 'very good', higher salaries are availble for top-managers or business owners only).

Buy

The only unique thing you're adviced to buy is cedar nuts, because Siberia region is the only region authentic for this delicacy. All over the world it is extermely expensive.

Other goods are the same as all over Russia. Chinese clothes could be slightly cheaper on the Chinese market.

Eat

Well, it's difficult to stay hungry in Krasnoyarsk. However, you'll hardly find any known food brands, like McDonald's or KFC there. The only places you're strongly adviced NOT to visit - any restaurants near the Railroad Station, and the local Market-Place ('Колхозный рынок', which is located at the end of Diktatury - Диктатуры - street), because they are traditionally occupied by local and guest criminals.

Budget

A number of cheap bars with sandwiches served are spread all over the city. Just come to any - and you'll find hospitable people (however, in some places you can come across some difficulties if not speaking Russian).

• Venezia, Mira (Мира) street crossing Surikova - Сурикова - street. One of the best restaurants with Italian cuisine. To the left of a large shopping mall called Dom Byta - 'Дом быта'). Don't miss a small hidden door.

Mid-range

• 100 Povarov (100 поваров), on Mira (Мира) street. Russian for "100 Cooks", this is the place to eat a lot for an average price.

Also there are a number of excellent Chinese restaurants on Mira street near the Theatre of Musical Comedy, where real Northern Chinese Cuisine can be found.

Splurge

• Center (Центр), Mira street (near the Technological University campus). Serves European food.
• Bavaria' (Бавария), on the Square near the Opera Theatre. German cuisine.
• Balkan Grill (Балкан Гриль) is behind Krasnoyarsk Opera theatre, serves delicious authentic! cuisine of South-Eastern Europe.

Drink

Numerous night clubs can be found in all parts of Krasnoyarsk, but it's better to avoid those located in suburbs (because of not always well-educated and not always sober aboriginals), or very expensive luxury clubs and restaurants (they are usually occupied by local criminals).

Night club Oxygen (Оксиген) is located near the Railway station, so if you leave at night it's better to phone for taxi first, but not walk around.

The most famous (and actually the largest) night club is Planet Krasnoyarsk (Планета Красноярск) on Predmostnaya Ploshchad'.

Club Nirvana (Нирвана) is to date the best night club with famous DJs and pop-star visitors. It is located 15 min drive from the downtown - 15 Kirenskogo str (ул. Киренского 15), and surrounding areas may not be very pleasant to walk at night.

Most cinemas have night clubs as well. Actually, it quite difficult to find several adjacent blocks without at least one night club or disco.

NOTE: if you get in any night club, either luxury or villagish - take care of drug traffickers! They can be found in ALL night clubs, but usually don't disturb those who don't want to contact them.

Sleep

Generally speaking, the closer to the center - the safer. Although Krasnoyarsk is a very safe place, you're not adviced to look for accomodation in the suburbs - local lumpens won't make your stay pleasant. Thr Right Bank is mostly lumpenized except for the Predmostnaya Ploshchad' (Bridge Square, or Предмостная площадь); on the contrary, the Left Bank is mostly well-furnished except for the most distant districts. You're strongly adviced to book your accomodation beforehand (better by phone, and don't expect to find any English-speaking staff), because there are not many hotels in Krasnoyarsk, most with no on-line booking service and no English-speaking personnel. Don't expect to find Internet and hair-dryers, but be ready to meet insects and come across the lack of hot water, unless you choose the most expensive hotels.

Budget

There is no budget accomodation in the city. The cheapest hotels are from 50USD per night, which is hardly a budget level. On the Railway station, some elderly women can suggest rooms in their own flats for ~10USD per night - it's your own risk whether to accept it or not (elderly women may have young sons).

Mid-range

• Yakhont hotel (гостиница Яхонт), 44-a Telman street (ул.Тельмана 44-а) (located 15 min drive from the Center)
• Ogni Eniseya hotel (гостиница Огни Енисея), 80 Dubrovinskogo (ул.Дубровинского, 80). Located on the Embankment of the Enisei River, near the Regional Museum.
• Tourist hotel (гостиница Турист), on the Predmostnaya Ploshchad' (Предмостная площадь).

Splurge

Krasnoyarsk's two luxury hotels cost from 130USD per night, which is hardly worth it. However, you're safe from insects, and their location is quite convinient.

• Krasnoyarsk hotel (гостиница Красноярск), on the Square at the Opera Theatre.
• Oktyabr'skaya hotel (гостиница Октябрьская), 15 Mira street (ул.Мира, 15). The best hotel of the city.

Contact

The international code for Russia is +7, Krasnoyarsk code is 391-2 (for other cities of the region the last number varies).

Public phones are not very spread. International phones can be found in the post offices, where you pre-pay your talk to a cassier.

Mobile phones are carried by almost everyone, including children. Prepaid SIM cars with Russian federal number are sold for many national and local telecommunication providers - BeeLine (Билайн), MTS (МТС), SibChallenge (Сибчелендж), EniseiTelecom (Енисей Телеком), Megafon-Krasnoyarsk (Мегафон-Красноярск) all aroung the city. The mobile standard is GSM 900/1800, however some operators still provide DAMPS service. SMS usually costs 3-6 USD cents, one minute of talk is 10-20 USD cents. Since July 2006 you cannot be charged for incoming calls (unless you're using roaming), but sometimes you pay for a 'connection' a fixed price of 50 USD cents. Outside the city, all-Russian providers like Beeline, MTS and Megafon, do not have coverage, while local ones usually keep good quality of connection for longer distances.

Internet cafes are not common, but Mobile GPRS in Russia is usually very cheap - up to 0.5 USD per 1Mb.

Stay safe

It's not difficult, because Krasnoyarsk is a very safe city. In the downtown, you should not expect any risks 24 hours, but in suburbs it's better not to walk alone at night. Other places of higher risk are the local Market-Place, and Railway Station - do not demonstrate your cash money there, especially if you see any Asian-looking people nearby.

It's not recommended to ask the Police for help unless it is really necessary. If possible, it's better to communicate with the hotel staff and security first, because communication with local policemen may be unpleasant due to language barrier and usual rudeness, or even dangerous, especially for non-European-looking foreigners (although police in Krasnoyarsk is far from being as dangerous as in Moscow and Saint-Petersburg; it's a national problem is Russia, though - there is no much difference between police and criminals).

Get out

The easiest way to travel from the city is to fly to Moscow first, and then wherever necessary. However, there are some flights from the local airport Emelianovo to China and nearest ex-USSR countries, or through Novosibirsk and Irkutsk which can be easily reached by train.

Neighboring Khakassia region with its major city Abakan is 400km West, reachable by car (M-54 road) and everyday train from the Railway station.