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Calcutta (known officially as Kolkata since the first of January 2001) is the capital of West Bengal and the second largest city in India (after Bombay).
UnderstandAncient and Pre-British HistoryHistoryCalcutta's history is intimately related to the British East India Company, which first arrived in 1690, and to British India, which Calcutta became the capital of in 1772. Job Charnock is widely known as the founder of Calcutta. Job desgined, with his Indian wife, the first plans for this great city by collating seven existing villages in the area. One of these seven Kolikata leant its name to the city. In the nineteenth century Calcutta was the epicentre of activity in the early stages of the national movement of independence. Calcutta remained in the forefront of Indian prosperity up to independence and for some more years afterwards before the population pressure on infrastructure and political disturbances led to a gradual decline. A violent and bloody Marxist Maoist movement known as the Naxal movement (after Naxalbari, the place where it first started) in the 1970s left the city badly bruised. Modern CalcuttaCalcutta is the main business, commercial and financial hub of eastern India. Calcutta witnessed an economic decline from the late sixties till the late nineties. The city's economic fortunes turned the tide as the early nineties economic liberalization in India reached Calcutta's shores during late nineties. Calcutta is a multicultural, cosmopolitan city. Apart from the diversity of India, the cultures represented are that of the Europeans (Including Germans, Armenians, and others), and other Asians (Including Chinese, Sinhalese, and Tibetans). Since 1977, a "Left Front" coalition of communist and Marxist parties has continuously ruled the state. The coalition at one time renamed the street the American Consulate is on "Ho Chi Minh Street", in protest of American foreign policy at that time. The Left Front regained control of the Municipal Corporation of Calcutta from the Trinamul Congress in the 2005 civic elections. EconomyThanks to the forward-looking leadership of the Left front, Calcutta is fast developing into a modern infotech city with various private sector setting up shop here. The landscape of the city is also fast changing with flyovers, gardens and newer commercial establishments. The Calcutta city itself has expanded into its suburbs, with the Greater Calcutta stretching from Kalyani (in Nadia District) in North to Diamond Harbour in South (in the South 24 Parganas District). The city's fortunes have looked up since the early nineties, coinciding with the liberalization of the Indian economy. Its economy has been amongst the fastest growing in the country. The New Metro city is characterised by popular spots like Inox Multiplexes, Nandan, Tantra, Barista Coffee Shops, Sourav's Pavilion and Science City. Calcutta is home to many industrial units, of large Indian corporations, whose product range is varied and includes - engineering products, electronics, electrical equipment, cables, steel, leather, textiles, jewellery, frigates, automobiles, railway coaches, wagons. Several industrial estates like Taratolla, Kalyani, Uluberia, Dankuni, Kasba, Howrah are spread throughout the urban agglomeration. A huge leather complex has come up at Bantolla. An export processing zone has been set up in Falta. Specialized setups like the country's first Toy Park, and a Gem and Jewellery Park have also been established. Calcutta is also starting to become a major hub for the IT (Information Technology) industry. With the formation of New Town at Rajarhat and extension of Salt Lake's Sector-V, Calcutta is rapidly turning into a pro-IT town. More and more businesses are coming to Calcutta to set up their offices. GeographyCalcutta is located in the eastern part of India at 22°82′ N 88°20′ E. It has spread linearly along the banks of the river Hooghly. The Calcutta Municipal Corporation has an area of 185 square kilometres. The city proper today can be roughly divided into two sections along Mother Teresa Sarani (Park Street). North of Park Street is the more congested part of the city. South of Park Street is the slightly better planned section of the city. The old Calcutta Business District (CBD) is where the seat of the West Bengal Government is located, along with many other government offices. Several banks have their corporate (Allahabad Bank, United Bank of India, UCO Bank) or regional headquarters (Reserve Bank of India, State Bank of India, Bank of India, Central Bank of India amongst many others) around the Bagh area. Many of Calcutta's older business groups have their main offices here. The area is a mix of multi-storeyed office blocks and colonial buildings. The newer CBD is around the south of Park Street, Camac Street and AJC Bose Road. Several high-rise office blocks including some of Calcutta's tallest commercial buildings - like the Chatterjee International Centre, Tata Centre, Everest House, Industry House, CGO Building - are located here. Maidan (open field) is situated between the river Ganges and J.L.Nehru Road (or Chowringhee).It is said to be the lungs of Calcutta.The lush green meadow also houses Victoria Memorial, Eden Gardens, and several other sporting clubs. Calcuttans simply love to stroll in the Maidan. In an effort to relieve congestion in the main city, many government offices have shifted to high-rise office buildings lining Bidhan Nagar's (Salt Lake) Central Park. The residential buildings are mainly lowrise and comprise of older colonial buildings and numerous new four storey apartment blocks. Ten to twelve storey apartment blocks have come up in large numbers in south Calcutta. The city has relaxed its rules on high-rise construction recently and twenty storey buildings are becoming more common. The tallest residential towers of eastern India - the four thirty-five-storey towers of South City are under construction on Prince Anwar Shah Road. Huge construction activity along the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass is changing the face of the city. Luxury hotels, a convention centre, speciality hospitals, condominium complexes, malls and multiplexes are coming up at a rapid pace. The city's expansion in the eastern side is spearheaded by the construction of a huge new city called New Town adjacent to the well planned Bidhan Nagar. Located in Rajarhat, it is one of the largest planned urban developments in India. The neglected western side of the urban agglomeration has got a boost recently with the signing of an agreement with an Indonesian company to build the West Kolkata International Township. Another huge new township is in the proposal state in Dankuni. Slums and dilapidated structures exist in many pockets of the city proper and house over 25% of the city's population (Census 2001). Slum redevelopment schemes have helped improve living conditions to a slight extent but there is huge scope for improvement in this area. Efforts to shift slum dwellers to newer developments have often met with resistance and failure because many of the slums are in prime areas of the city and the slum dwellers who are integrated in the social structure of the neighbourhood do not want to shift. Get inBy planeNetaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport [1] (CCU) connects Calcutta with South East Asia, but is surprisingly small for a city of this size and hasn't been refurbished since the 1950s. The domestic terminal, on the other hand, is among the best in India. It is undergoing a major facelift and expansion to cope with the expanding bulk of air traffic and new airline companies popping up almost every month. Take a prepaid taxi from the airport to the city. It is about 20 km from the city. Expect to pay about Rs. 150-250 depending on your destination. Alternatively, adventurous souls can try out the new rail link to Dum Dum, where you can board the Metro. By trainThere are two major railway stations in Calcutta. These are Howrah ( not in Calcutta actually, its in the next city Howrah) and Sealdah. A new terminus station called 'Kolkata' has also started functioning since 2005, but presently it accomodated very few pairs of trains. Also Calcutta boasts of the first metro railway in India. The metro is surprisingly clean and a the best way to beat the crowd. But in office time it becomes too much crowded. NB: Although the staff are very helpful at the main stations, they are hindered by the lack of modern equipment. By carBy busIf there is something you cannot miss in Calcutta, it is the ubiquitous bus. They ply from every nook and corner of the city. The fare is very nominal, though the comfort level leaves a lot to be desired. Overcrowding is a serious problem. Poor quality of maintenance is yet another issue. But at present, the CSTC (Calcutta State Transport Corporation) and WBSTC (West Bengal Surface Transport Corporation) have come up with spacious and quite well maintained buses. Even air conditioned buses have been inducted in some important routes. The state government under Shri Buddhadev Bhattacharya, honourable Chief Minister of West Bengal is making all efforts to further improve bus service in Kolkata. By boatThe river Hooghly that runs through the west of the city offered one of the first reasons to the foundation of the British commercial settlement. The river continues to offer one of the less crowded but slow traffic medium. There are several points (popularly called Ghats and jetties) on the bank of the river from where you can board several regular routes of ferry services. Ferries can be fairly large launchs to small improveized motorized boats. They are extrememly safe though. Even if you don't get any exotic manual boats like you get in Varanasi, the river transport of the city lets you go to several old spots near the bank in a hassle-free manner with an additional dash of the view of decadent river front of the city. Get aroundBy trainThe two major railway stations of the city are at Howrah and Sealdah. The Eastern and South Eastern Railways are headquartered in the city. The electrified suburban rail network of the SER and the ER is extensive and includes the Circular Rail. The city also has South Asia's oldest underground metro railway. Till mid 2005 it was the only underground metro railway in the Indian subcontinent. By tramCalcutta is the only city in India to have a tram network. Though decommissioned in some part of the city, electric trams are still one of the means of traveling between places within the city. They move slow on the laid tracks in traffic jammed streets, but they are environment friendly (no emission). By busThe city has an extensive bus network and taxis, autorickshaws and rickshaws are plenty in number. Do not try to board the buses! These are the cheapest option but not really comfortable. If you really like to board, look for the government run deluxe buses. By autorickshawShared Autorickshaws (Tuktuks in other places of Southeast Asia) are available from different points. They travel in fixed routes and the fare is fixed. They are supposed to take four persons, three in the back seats and one sharing the drivers seat! By taxiAs in rest of India, taxis are easily available and cheap compared to rest of world. The fare structure is cryptic to say the least. If you are confused (you will be) ask the driver for a fare chart. Privately owned rental car places are available throughout the city. Rates depend on the make, model, size and comfort level of the car. Agreements are flexible, for example, cars can be rented even for couple of hours at an hourly rate. Most rental cars are accompanied with a driver from the rental agency. Here are contacts of a few rental car agents:
SeeCITY ORIENTATION (CENTRE) The city sprawls along the eastern bank of the Hooghly River, a tributary of the Ganges, which divides it from Howrah on the western bank. For travellers, the most relevant parts of Kolkata are south of the Howrah Bridge in the areas around BBD Bagh and Chowringhee. BBD Bagh, formerly Dalhousie Square, is built around a manmade lake called Laldighi. Around here among others you will find the Writers Building (the seat of the state government), The General Post Office (GPO) Building, The Reserve Bank of India Building, The Raj Bhavan (the Governor's Residence). In this area you will also find The West Bengal Tourism Office, Lalbazar (headquaters of Calcutta Police), other travel agencies, and other Government offices. A little west towards Strand Road you will find the main Railway Reservation Office at Fairley Place. South of BBD Bagh is the huge, lush green, open parkland known as Maidan. Continuing south from here you will find Eden Gardens (one of the most famous cricket stadium in the world), All India Radio building, Red Road and Fort William, the massive and impregnable British Citadel built in 1773. The fort is still in use and retains its well-guarded grandeur. Visitors are allowed in with special permission only. Along St. George’s Gate Road, on the southern fringe of the Maidan, you will find Calcutta's most famous landmark Victoria Memorial, a splendid white marble monument. Around the Eden Gardens you will find most of the football clubs of Calcutta including archrivals Mohan Bagan and East Bengal. Going East from Raj Bhavan at the edge of Maidan is the area known as Chowringhee. Here you'll find most of the hotels, as well as many of the restaurants, banks and airline offices. Sudder Street runs off Chowringhee Rd and is famous for its budget hotels. At the junction of Chowringhee Road and Sudder Street you can find the Indian Museum building one of the best museums in Asia. Further south down Chowringhee Road, which runs along the eastern edge of the Maidan, is Park Street, with it's up market restaurants and shops and a few hotels. Further down you will come across Ho Chi Min Street with American and British embassies. Continuing along you will find Birla Planetarium(second largest in the world, with daily shows in English, Hindi and Bengali), Victoria Memorial, St. Paul's Cathedral (largest catholic church in Calcutta), Nandan (centre hosting international film festivals) and Rabindra Sadan. Turing right from here towards Alipore you will find the Zoological Gardens, Calcutta Race Course and the National Library. Also around here you will find Vidyasagar Setu (popularly known as second hooghly Bridge). you can cross the bridge back towards Howrah and visit The Botanical Gardens at Sibpur. REST OF THE CITY Calcutta's underground called the Metro runs from Dum Dum in the north to Tollygunge in the South traveling through Esplanade (for Chowringhee), Park Street, Maidan (for Victoria Memorial, and Planetarium), Rabindra Sadan and Kalighat. It is quick, efficient, clean lot less crowded than overland transport and is a recommended way to travel whenever and wherever possible. The Northern part of Calcutta houses the old buildings belonging to the Zamindars (Landlords), other rich Bengali people who were trading with the British. It is generally crowded and has some interesting markets including the famous College Street Book market where you can trace many out of print books with a little patience. While in College Street a visit to the College St Coffee Shop is a must. Also around the area are the Calcutta Medical College, the Presidency college and Calcutta University. North of Chowringhee you will find the the Nakhoda Mosque (the largest mosque in Calcutta) and the Marble Palace where you will find The oldest zoo in Calcutta and a wide collection of art inside a palacial old Calcutta building. Further along you will find Jorasanko Thakur Bari (Tagore Family residence). From the Belgachia metro station you can visit the Pareshnath Jain Temple. From the Sovabazar Metro station you can visit the other less travelled Pareshnath Jain Temple at Gouribari (take an auto rickshaw). Travelling further east towards Ultadanga past the VIP Road you can go to Salt Lake City. It is an Satellite city of Calcutta housing the IT hub of Eastern India, some shopping Emporiums and the amusement park by the name of Nicco Park. There is also Nalban Boating Complex and Aquatica Water Park here. Across the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass road you will find The Swabhumi Heritage Park where one can sample local arts and crafts as well as some of the food from its various stalls. Travelling further along the Bypass you can visit the Science City at the junction of Park Circus Connector. From here you can easily reach Chowringhee area. Around Park circus is also the China Town housing some of the finest Chinese eateries. Kalighat Temple (housing Calcutta's patron deity) lies just south of Maidan. Right next to the temple is Mother Teresa's Hospital for the destitute. Southern Calcutta is less congested and more modern. You will find more apartment blocks, more green spaces and more affluent homes housing the cream of the modern society. Here you will find among others The Tollygunge Club (one of the oldest clubs and the most famous colonial relic housing a golf course, horse riding facilities, accommodation etc.), Rabindra Sarovar (big open lake and park area housing boating clubs, open air theatre and eateries), Birla Industrial & Technological Museum, and Royal Calcutta Golf Club (the oldest golf club in the world after St. Andrews, Scotland). Tollygunge also houses Tollywood (the home of Bengali Films), Television centre among others. Jadavpore houses The Jadapore University. The Indian Institute of Management is in Joka. Golpark houses Ramkrishna Mission Institute. Gariahat has a good market to buy Saris and other clothing items. Birla Temple is the largest temple in Calcutta and is worth a visit. In Kidherpore you will find the Calcutta port.
Museums and GalleriesIndian Museum Town Hall, Calcutta [1], [2], [3] and [4] Marble Palace Gurusaday Museum, Diamond Harbour Road Jawahar Shishu Bhawan Birla Industrial and Technological Museum Science City Day trips
except Monday (check the rate & timings Ph: 22825813). The bus departs from 4, Shakespeare Sarani.
Help Tourism offers interesting Wildlife Trip packages for Sunderbans,mainly for small groups.They have their own set up Sunderbans Jungle Camp on Bali Island.Call:+91-33-24550917,24854584,+91-0-98310 31980. or write to: kalighat@vsnl.net;helptourismkolkata@gmail.com.
DoFootball (soccer) is a passion for many Calcuttans with the national clubs, Mohun Bagan Athletic Club and East Bengal Club being the best known teams.
LearnEat phuchkas only if you are a native. Vistors will surely get serious stomach ailments unless they try this delicacy at star hotels which unfortunately cannot match the taste of the street variety. WorkThis city has been ruled by Communists for long, due to which it has significantly suffered economically. However, it boasts of very highly qualified professionals. IT is one of the industries the present government is trying very hard to tap. Buy
EatNot to be missed: Bengali sweets like Rasagolla (cheese balls fried and dipped in a sugary syrups), Mishti Doi (sweet yogurt), Sandesh (A large variety and types are available). Try some shops like K.C. Das, Bhim Nag, Nakur, Sen Mahasoy, Ganguram. These are not costly but should be eaten fresh. Budget
Mid-rangeAll the place on Park Street SplurgeDrink
SleepMany budget hotels are located on or around Sudder Street and Howrah Station area. Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
Contact
Stay safeCalcutta is reasonably safe, though around Sudder street you may be approached to buy Hashish or other drugs, by some dubious looking fellows. The area is also becoming known for its heroin addicts as well and one can occasionally see people 'chasing the dragon' in the side streets. Having said that in general the people of Calcutta are remarkably friendly and welcoming, more so than many other Indian cities. CopeGet outTake a trip to historical town of Vishnupur famous for the Terracotta Temples,Clay Sculptures,and Silk Sarees.One can visit Shantiniketan,famous for the Ashramik School,University founded by Nobel Lauriet poet Rabindra Nath Tagore,Leather Crafts,Kantha Stich Sarees. You can also take a few days of and travel to see the scenic beauty of North Bengal, visiting places like Darjiling, Jalpaiguri etc. For those who prefer the sea over the mountains, a visit to Digha, or Shankarpur can be advocated. Digha is a journey of 4-5 hrs form Kolkata, and can be reached by bus or train.
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