Ko Samui [1] is an island in the Gulf of Thailand, some 700 km south-east of Bangkok and about 80 km from the eastern coastline of southern Thailand.

Choeng Mon beach

Districts

Ko Samui is Thailand's second largest island (229 km² - only Phuket covers a greater area) and all in all a fairly big place. The most popular and commercialised beaches are Chaweng and Lamai, while the northern beaches and their adjacent villages of Mae Nam, Bophut, Bang Ruk (Big Buddha) and Choeng Mon are more peaceful choices, and the west coast beaches are still (comparatively) quiet.

Clockwise from Nathon on the west coast, the main beaches are:

• Nathon - Samui's port and administrative center, but with little to attract the tourist

• Mae Nam - a quiet and beautiful beach on the northern coast

• Bophut - known for its Fisherman's Village, laid-back but growing fast

• Bang Ruk - at the northeastern tip, home of the Big Buddha

• Choeng Mon - quiet North shore beach

• Chaweng - the largest and most-developed beach, with a curious mix of luxury hotels and backpacker guesthouses and a hopping nightlife

• Lamai - Samui's "second" beach south of Chaweng, more backpackery than Chaweng

• South Coast - the small beaches of Ban Hua Thanon, Na Khai, Laem Set, Bang Kao and Thong Krut

Understand

An island of great natural beauty and variety, Samui is home to about 40,000 full-time inhabitants, 90% of whom are Buddhist. The palm fringed shoreline and coconut and fruit cultivation of the coastal lowlands rise to a central granite massive, the slopes of which are cloaked in virgin rainforest.

At 247 sq.km., Samui is the largest island in an archipelago of over 80, mainly uninhabited, islands which form the Ang Thong National Marine Park, a kayaking and snorkeling paradise. At 25km long and 21km wide, Samui is big enough for serious exploration by the adventurous and fit, but can be circumnavigated in just a couple of hours by motorbike or car.

Tourism has long since overtaken coconut farming and fishing as the main sources of income. The latter are still practiced though to a lesser extent and the pleasant aroma of charring coconuts can still be smelled on many parts of the island. Many of the fish on local restaurant and hotel dining room tables come from the surrounding Gulf of Thailand’s warm waters, although increasing amounts are imported from elsewhere as demand outstrips supply.

Get in

By plane

Bangkok Airways and (Berjaya Air) are the only public airlines currently serving Ko Samui Airport (USM) - private planes are accepted with advance notice. Bangkok Air has near-hourly departures to/from Bangkok; tickets are expensive by Thai standards, but advance bookings can be tolerable (around 2000B), which a walk-in booking may be twice as much. There are also daily flights to/from Phuket for 2200 baht, U-Tapao, and Singapore; four direct flights a week from Chiang Mai (but no direct flights in the opposite direction); and twice weekly flights to/from Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur (Berjaya Air). Air cargo services from both airlines is also available.

Ko Samui's outdoor airport terminal

Visa-on-Arrival is available at Samui Airport for passport holders of 14 nations, see Thailand for more about entry.

Ground transportation from the airport is readily available. A seat in a minibus for the 20-minute ride to Chaweng costing 100 baht/person; a faster taxi will cost 150-300 baht. Be sure to negotiate the rate to your destination before you get into the taxi since many drivers refuse to use their meters.

A cheaper but less convenient option is to fly to Surat Thani or Chumpon and connect by road and then ferry.

By boat

Numerous ferry services direct from mainland Surat Thani include an express boat (3 departures daily, taking around 3 hours and costing 150 baht) and slow night boats (taking 6-7 hours). Call operator Songserm Travel (252 9654 in Bangkok) for the latest schedules, which vary according to the season.

There are also regular speedboats and ferries to Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao.

Lomprayah offers a combined bus/high speed catamaran ferry service from Bangkok to Ko Samui which takes about 11 hours and costs around 850 baht (1000 baht in the opposite direction). The bus pauses in Hua Hin and then stops at Chumphon where it connects with the ferry, which calls at Ko Nang Yuan, Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan on its way to Ko Samui. The buses and ferry are air-con and very comfortable.

Get around

As on many islands in Thailand, small motorbikes are available for rental. Compared to other nearby islands, Samui's road systems is very developed and there are plenty of taxis cruising about, although it's a challenge to get them to use their meters.

Pickup trucks (songthaews) also serve as group taxis. Hail one on any major road with a wave or yell, negotiate a fare, and sit down on the bench in the back.

See

The reason why people come to Samui is, quite simply, the beaches which remain stunning after decades of development, helped in no small part by a height restriction on new buildings.

Other than lying on the beach with a cold beer in hand and ogling at the babes and hunks sauntering past, there isn't all that much to see on the island. A certain pair of rocks on Lamai amuses some visitors, Bang Rak has a large but nondescript Buddha statue, and there are some waterfalls (notably Na Muang) of minor interest.

Do

The usual panoply of watersports are available, including plenty of dive shops, but most diving is done either in the nearby Angthong Marine National Park or Ko Tao as the visibility around Samui's sandy beaches tends to be poor. You can book diving day trips at dive shops, most of which are based in Chaweng. The dive boats tend to leave from the pier at Bophut.

Santiburi Samui Country Club boasts the only 18 hole golf course on the island. Located inland from Mae Nam, the neighbouring town to Bophut, the challenging mountain-side and high valley fairways offer stunning views of the bay area and distant Ko Pha Ngan. Golf carts are compulsory, to prevent the exhaustion of players otherwise following the steeply rising and falling fairways. Large greens offer some compensation to players distracted by the fabulous views and lush tropical setting. The clubhouse includes locker rooms, dining, conferencing rooms as well as a driving range, practice green and shop.

Kayaking is a great way to see the Angthong Marine National Park. Look for a credible tour operator when on the island.

Eat

Samui is well known for its coconuts, which are available everywhere and quite tasty. Being an island, seafood is generally a good choice, although in high season demand often exceeds local supply. The larger beaches have a number of international restaurants as well (often run by Thai-farang couples), with Bophut having a particularly good reputation.

Dual pricing is regrettably common: some restaurants have two menus, one for farangs and the other for Thai people, at about 1/4 of the farang prices. Main courses in a standard, low-key Thai restaurant should be under 100 baht (except some seafood dishes), so if prices seem unreasonably steep, head elsewhere.

Drink

There are innumerable options for a drink, ranging from the load and brash backpacker pubs and girlie bars of Chaweng to the candle-lit romantic bars of Bophut. Figure on 80 baht for a beer.

Sleep

With an estimated 60,000 rooms accommodation is basically not a problem, and the most difficult decision will be picking a suitable beach. Head for Chaweng or Lamai if you want nightlife, Mae Nam or the South Coast for a quieter beach experience, or Bophut for a good compromise.

Buy

• Tailor-made suit for next-to-nothing (60EUR+, for good quality).

• Sarongs and other tropical souvenirs.

Stay safe

Motorbikes are somewhat risky, but jeeps, trucks, and other cars for rent are readily available at very reasonable rates, and are considerably safer. After a good time drinking in the party areas of Chaweng, Bophut, and Mae Nam, taxis are readily available to take you home.

Get out

• Ang Thong National Marine Park, scuba and snorkeling within striking distance

• Ko Pha Ngan, home of the infamous Full Moon Party

• Ko Tao, among the best places in Thailand to learn to dive

• Pattaya & Phuket - Bangkok Airways operates direct flights to both