The Westside Cliffs

Ko Samet (เกาะเสม็ด) is a small island in Rayong Province, within easy reach of Bangkok.

(there's also a smaller Ko Samet in Chumphon Province)

Understand

Ko Samet is not overly renowned for its parties (unlike Ko Pha Ngan) or its diving (unlike Ko Tao), but it has both convenience and quietness in its favor. It's a popular tourist destination for Thais as well as foreigners for its proximity to Bangkok.

Get in

Ko Samet, including all of the good parts, is a national park and has an entry fee. Thais pay 20 baht, foreigners 200 baht - a classic example of Thai dual pricing. If your ferry arrives at the main pier and you take a songthaew to the beaches, there will be a stop at the main ticket checkpoint. If your ferry arrives at one of the beaches, an officer will collect the fee as you step out of the surf. Note that there is plenty of foot traffic in and out of the park to the 7-Eleven, ATM or other shops and restaurants and if you have no bags you can nonchalantly walk into the park without anyone checking your ticket. (There is a road via the temple, take that and you won't get near the checkpoint.

The 1st class bus from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai) to Ban Phe usually takes just over 3 hours, costs 276 baht, and terminates opposite the ferry piers (there's no direct service to Ban Phe from Moh Chit - nearest alternative is to Rayong, from there you can take a Song Thaew to Ban Phe). If you take a regular bus from Pattaya or Sattahip, you'll need to take a songthaew or charter a tuk-tuk to the ferry piers. Minibus services go straight to the piers.

Ferries from Ban Phe to Ko Samet take around 30 to 45 minutes. Only buy a one-way ticket, as there's no discount on round-trip tickets and you won't have to worry about losing it. The ticket sellers may also offer to sell you the national park ticket - don't bother.

The nearest airport fielding commercial flights is U-Tapao, just east of Sattahip - about 45 km from Ban Phe.

Get Around

There are two methods to get around the island. The first is by songthaew, this is just a pickup truck with the passengers sitting in the back. It costs 200 baht for a private trip, or between 20 and 60 baht per person for a full car, depending on which beach you are going to. This is a rather expensive method to get around the island, and the dusty roads can make it an uncomfortable trip. The second way is by renting a motorcycle. Signs advertise 300 baht per day or 100 baht per hour, but when you go to enquire about renting they will often say 400 or 500 baht per day. Insist on paying 300 baht. You will usually be able to rent it from the hotel you are staying at. Leaving your passport or a deposit is not necessary or advisable.

See

• Catch the sunset from dramatic cliffside locations along the south-west coastline.
• A fireshow at the renowned Silver Sand Bar on Ao Phai Beach. They are usually held around 10pm, and are biggest later in the week and on weekends when the party crowds come in.

Do

• Hiking

• Boat trips

A boat trip with any of the number of companies should cost around 600B and can include snorkelling, fishing, a visit to the fish farms and floating restaurant, or a tour around the island.

• Snorkeling/Diving

• Traditional on almost every South-East Asia beach, Ko Samet has started featuring "Full/Half/Dark Moon" nights. These should not be confused with the massive Full Moon Parties on Ko Pha Ngan or other parts of Southern Thailand - here they are simply an excuse for drink specials, which are present every night of the year anyway.

• Drink the local speciality, a SangSom bucket, which is a toxic mix of Thai whiskey, red bull and coke, served in a kids sandbucket with lots of straws.

Buy

Ko Samet doesn't have much in the way of shopping beyond basic beach accessories (sarongs, T-shirts, etc).

Most hotels have some books to trade or rent, and there are a growing number of hawkers selling books as too.

Eat

Seafood, seafood, and seafood, some of the best barbeques are found along Ao Phai and Haat Sai Kaew beaches. But there's also meat and veggie curries as well as Western favorites like pizza, and a bakery that makes fresh bread at the Naga Bar and Bungalows on Ao Hin Khok. Almost every hotel and bungalow operation has its own restaurant but it's only the movies that differentiate them. Many also set up tables and chairs at night for dining on the beach.

Budget

In town (Na Dan), there are two smallish, more traditional Thai eateries that serve good quality Thai food at fairly cheap prices. One is located across the road from the 7/11 near the national park entrance, and the other is just a few shops down from the same 7/11. Both have menus in English.

If you've jonesing for some sticky rice and other country fare head down to Ao Wong Duan.

Mid-range

Gecko Bar, located at the end of Ao Phai beach next to Silversand Resort, does an excellent barbeque with chicken steaks smothered in mushroom sauce and sizzling beef and chicken hotplates. Between 100 and 200 baht, these meals are definately good value, try the fries.

Splurge

• Ao Prao Resort, [1]. Very posh resort on the west side of the island. You might even see some of the Thai glitterati lounging about - if only you could recognize them.

Drink

Although Koh Samet is not a renowned party island, Haat Sai Kaew and Ao Phai do get their fair share of backpackers, and therefore have their fair share of parties. Everyday on Ao Phai flyers are handed out from the different bars that advertise the drink specials for that night, and might even give you a free drink. Biggest nights are generally Thursday-Saturday, when more of the backpackers and expats come to the island. The main bars along Haat Sai Kaew are:

• Beach Bar: a small bar with a few pool tables and some of the best cocktails on the island, try the bar's specials. Located right at the end of the main road that runs in from the village and through the national park entrance.
• Ploy Bar: a large, generally Thai-style night spot that often has live acts and some manner of sideshow games. Located in the middle of Haat Sai Kaew, a big establishment, you can't miss it.

and along Ao Hua Khok / Ao Phai are:

• Naga Bar: once 'the' bar on the island, it has gone downhill somewhat in the last few years, but still a good place to hang and enjoy cheap drinks and a few games of pool with locals and tourists alike. Located at the top of 'Naga Hill' between Haat Sai Kaew and Ao Hua Khok.
• Tok's Little Bar: a small thatched hut serves as the main bar for this laid back, chilled out drinking spot. They generally have good drink specials and a different theme for every night, so grab a bucket and chill out on a mat on the beach. Occasionally has some fireshows and special parties. Next door to Naga Bar.
• Silversand Bar: arguably the most popular bar on the island, Silversand brings in the largest backpacker crowd, and is generally where everyone ends up at the end of the night. The bar boasts quite a big dancefloor and generally the best fire shows on the island. Located at the opposite end of Ao Phai to Naga Bar.
• Baywatch bar, AO wong Duan: Popular bar for foreigners and Thai on AO Wong Duan with very relaxed chairs and an extended cocktail list to enjoy those long Thai nights. Currently they are expanding having rented the space from the bar next to them. They have a website: www.baywatchbar.com

The local special can be reproduced as follows:

• one child's sandbucket, small
• one pint Mekong whiskey
• one can Coca-cola or Pepsi
• one scoop ice (optional)
• one to three straws

Place all ingredients in sandbucket and drink via straw. Repeat until the sandy beach rises up to meet you.

There's also the usual assortment of Thai beer - Chang, Tiger, San Miguel, Leo, and Carlsberg. Prices are significantly higher than on the mainland, but most bars have some form of happy hour. Alternatively, there's always the option of buying a 6-pack and sitting on the beach; for non-drinkers there are tropical fruit drinks.

Sleep

But It Looked So Nice In The Brochure!

Most of the accommodation centers around the beaches on the east coast; try to arrive on the island as early as possible to have the best selection to choose from. Tourist season on Samet is generally from November - February and June - August, at which time finding vacant accomadation can be a challenge. Also, beware any public holidays, the island fills up like crazy!

The northern-most beaches of Hat Sai Keaw and Ao Hin Kok have many bugalow operations with typical Thai concrete bunker-style rooms. If your room doesn't have air conditioning it can get a little hot during the day. At the very northern end are a few upscale resorts. At beaches further south you'll find the bungalows ranging from dismal shacks to four-star, air-conditioned mini suites.

Unless you've made the mistake of booking your room with the touts back at the dock you'll find a place by strolling down the beach. As this island becomes more and more popular it's getting harder to find rock-bottom prices. On some beaches you can expect to pay 600 baht for the basics. Most of the accommodation is first-come, first-served and the cheaper bungalows tend to go fastest. High-end establishments usually take reservations by phone, fax, and via the web.

Always ask to see the room before taking it. Many rooms will have minimal bedding so you might want to bring your own sleep sack or sarong. Towels, soaps, toilet paper, etc. may not be provided in basic bungalows but should be for sale cheaply somewhere close-by.

Budget

• Tub Tim Bungalow, Ao Tub Tim (AKA Ao Phudsa), is usually reliable and has rooms in the 600-1300 baht range. It's in a quieter area, although at night you might find the sound of bar music drowns out the lull of the ocean waves.

• Tok's Little Hut, A Hua Khok (sometimes part of Ao Phai), offers fan bungalows with individual bathrooms from between 300 and 800 baht/night, depending on proximity to the beach. The bungalows are necessarily pretty or overly clean, but if you want cheap they're fairly good value.

• Silversand Resort, Ao Phai, though becoming more upmarket everyday, Silversand still offers a few decently priced fan bungalows with attached bathroom for around 600 baht/ night.

• Sea Breeze, Ao Phai (behind Silversand), is a dingy little place offering fan bungalows with attached bathroom from about 400 baht/night, about as cheap as you will get, and in a fairly decent location.

• The Lost Resort, Ao Phai (up the road from Silversand), a new bungalow op owned by a British expat, this resort offers clean, pleasant triple-share rooms with attached bathrooms for about 500-600/night. The small reception/restaurant area does one of the best fried breakfasts for anyone missing home.

• Lung Dam Bungalow, located on Ao Lung Dam (a one-hour walk south on the beach from Na Dan), has very basic bungalows in the 300-500 baht range. It's on a small bay that is excellent for swimming. The restaurant has excellent service and is one of few on the island that is open early for breakfast. This beach is not accessible directly by road; unless you arrive directly by boat, you must walk on the beach for at least part of the way.

Mid-range

Most accomadation operations on Koh Samet offer a variety of different types of rooms, most of which fall in the mid-range category. If you are willing to spend between 600 and 1500 baht/night, you shouldn't have any trouble finding accomodation, no matter what beach you are on. A few such places are:

• Tarn Tawan, located on Ao Cho, is a clean, pleasant spot with decent bungalows, friendly service, and excellent food. The air-con bungalows, at 1000-1200 baht in low-season, are good value.

Splurge

Ao Phai beach. Samed villa at the left (not really visible between the threes).

• Samed Villa Resort, 89/4 Ao Phai; tel. +66-38644094 [2]. Has beautiful new air-con rooms right next to the water at 1900-2100 (low season).

• Ao Prao Resort, [3]. Very posh resort on the west side of the island.

Get out

• Ko Chang

• Ko Si Chang

• Pattaya