The Khyber Pass is the main route between Pakistan and Afghanistan.

The only alternate route is the Bolan Pass further South, between Kandahar and Quetta. That crosses the same mountain range and has much the same hazards.

Understand

The area is inhabited by Pathans, rather fierce Pushtu-speaking hill tribes. On the map, it is part of Pakistan, but the Pakistani government has never really controlled it. Pathan tribal chiefs run everything. The government plays complex games of bribery, threat and divide-and-rule with those chiefs to maintain its nominal authority.

The Pathans, and the mountain range where they live (60% in Pakistan, 40% in Afghanistan) and which the Khyber crosses, provided most of the adherents of Taliban. Many are still (early 2006) fiercly resisting various efforts by US forces and/or the Pakistani government to control their area. If Osama Bin Laden is alive, this area is where he is most likely hiding.

Crossing the Khyber has always been something of an adventure. Going there today would be spectacularly risky.

Some history

The Pathans have at least twice defeated the greatest armies of their day.

• When Alexander the Great wanted to cross the pass, he could not manage it for several weeks, until he bribed one of the local chieftains into assisting him against the ones who were blocking him.

• At the height of British power in Queen Victoria's reign, the Khyber was the border of the Raj. Britain fought several wars against Pathans and never completely subdued the area. In the first Afghan war, a force of 16,000 went in and one man came out alive. Pathans were also recruited into the British military, where they were excellent soldiers.

Another great conquerer, Genghis Khan, took Afghanistan but did not move South to the riches of India. Was he too busy further West, or too sensible to go against the Pathans on their home ground, or both?

Since 1980, Pathans have been fighting Russians, various other Afghans, each other, American-led invaders, and the Pakistani army. All their opponents take damage.

Talk

The local language is Pushtu, but many people also speak Pakistan's Urdu or Afghanistan's Dari. A few speak English.

Cities

The nearest towns on the route that goes over the pass are Jalalabad in Afghanistan and Peshawar in Pakistan. The major cities connected by the pass are Kabul and Lahore.

At the top of the pass is the town of Landi Kotal.

Get in

Except for trails which only locals can use safely, the only way in or out is via the main road through the pass.

See

At the top of the pass is the town of Landi Kotal, famous for smuggling everything from consumer electronics to cocaine. Attractions for the truly interpid tourist include weapons factories and hasish warehouses.

Itineraries

The pass is on the Istanbul to New Delhi over land itinerary, though the current recommended route avoids it.

Stay safe

This area, as of 2006, is definitely not safe. See War zone safety for suggestions.