Kabul is the capital of Afghanistan. Large parts of the city were completely destroyed during the various wars, particularly the western part. It is also the case that many buildings are so badly built that they have fallen down without any hostile action. Recently, some more modern style tower blocks have started to appear. Previously, any tall building would have been blown to bits.

Eastern Kabul in May 2002

Understand

Get in

By plane

Kabul Airport (KBL) is a short drive east of the city (Tel: 9251-61001). Airport facilities include banking, buffet-bar, car park, post office and restaurant (all very basic). Do not expect a modern international standard airport. This is possibly the dirtiest airport in the world. Taxis are available to the city centre, but it is safest to be met by someone who is known to you.

By car

The road from Kandahar has been rebuilt, but is very dangerous through Zabol. The road from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass is open, although care is needed during winter months. The road from Jalalabad is being rebuilt and is sporadically closed, with a difficult diversion in place.

By bus

The main bus company is Millie Bus and there are also many private buses. They are all best avoided by non-Afghans. Safety is a major problem with frequent accidents. On 19th August 2005, 20 people died on the Kabul - Kandahar road when two buses collided.

Get around

See

• Qargha Reservoir, described as Kabul's lake district is 9km from the city. Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine. Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future.
• Drive north to the Salang Pass for a summer picnic.

Do

Almost all foreigners in Kabul are working. There is little else to do apart from work and eat, so most will take a flight to Dubai for a break from the difficult conditions in Kabul.

Learn

Read about the culture, history and people before your visit. Kabul is a maze of a city with lots of interesting historical places.

Just like every city you should take precautions and find out about the current political climate of the country.

Work

Buy

The Share-e Naw area has some shops.

• Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.
• Kabul City Centre next to the park has some very smart shops.
• Chicken Street is famed for its tourist fare (carpets, carvings, knives etc) and pirate CD/DVD's.

• Supreme Supermarket on the Jalalabad road (near the British military base) has western products including beer. It is not open to Afghans. There is frequently a security alert on the Jalalabad road.

Cash machines are starting to appear in Kabul. The first was in the Standard Chartered Bank in Wazir Akbar Khan. AIB now have some machines around Kabul, including one in the Kabul City Centre shopping mall. They dispense in US dollars and Afghanis, however they are often reluctant to part with any cash and sometimes dispense old, ripped notes.

Eat

Budget

• Cafe in basement of Kabul City Centre, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than $3.

Mid-range

• Lai Thai restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan. Highly recommended for fine Thai food.
• Hotel Inter-Continental offers an excellent and cheap buffet.
• Park Hotel restaurant provides a good Afghan buffet.
• Sufi Afghan restaurant, near Hotel Inter-Continental.
• Popo Lano Italian Restaurant, Charahi Ansari, Share-e Naw. Good pizza and pastas.
• Taverna du Liban, Wazir Akbar Khan. Lebanese restaurant.
• Deutscher Hof, Street No. 3, Kalaih Fatullah. German restaurant.
• Hong Kong Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan. Near Pakistani embassy. Good Chinese food.
• Delhi Darbar, Cinema Zainab Rd, between the park and Flower St, Share-e Naw. +93 (0) 79 32 48 99. Great Indian food including a $6 thali.
• Afghan International Pizza Express, Darul Aman Road, near Ministry of Commerce. Good pizza. Possibly destroyed during riots, May 2006.
• Villa Vellebita, Wazir Akbar Khan. Croatian restaurant good for excellent pizza.
• L'Atmosphère French restaurant in Street 4, Taimani.
• The Grill Restaurant, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan. On junction near British embassy. Quality Lebanese food.
• The Springfield Restaurant & Bar, Wazir Akbar Khan. Offers pizza and assorted Italian / Western fare, and has a weekly quiz night on Mondays.

Splurge

• Kabul Serena Hotel has the best buffet in Afghanistan. A good selection of international food.

Drink

Alcohol used to be available at the Military P/X shops (Supreme, Blue and Ciano's) however recently the sales have stopped to all except pass-carrying members of the Military. Beer can be found sporadically on the black market in local shops on Flower Street. Most expat restaurants offer beer, wine and spirits but it is unknown how long this will last given current conditions.

Sleep

Budget

• SalSal Guesthouse. Shar-e Naw Park. Located between the park and the Chelsea Supermarket, and is signed in English. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly owner speaks English. Single rooms for $10/night include cable tv and fan. Double rooms from $20/night.

Mid-range

• Park Residence Hotel, Share-e Naw - Reasonable rooms with cable TV and Internet access. Internet cafe is now shifted inside the Hotel near the Reception. Located in the heart of Shar-e Naw, On Ansari Square. With Single Double and Triple Rooms. For contact and reservations please send an email to park_residence@hotmail.com or call on +93-79-373780. Rooms start at $55/night including breakfast. Dinner buffet is $6.

Splurge

• Safi Landmark Hotel & Suites is part of the Kabul City Centre Plaza shopping mall. Single rooms from $200 but can be reduced with negotiation. Apartments also available. Located next to Share-e Naw Park. For contact and reservations please send an email to sales_slm@landmarkhotelsdubai.com or call on +93-20-2203131.

• Heetal Plaza Hotel [1]. For contact and reservations please send an email to reservations@heetal.com or call on +93-79-167824.

• Kabul Serena Hotel [2] Froshgah Street. Kabul's 5 star hotel is now open close to many government ministries. The Serena is clean and modern.

• Hotel Continental [3] is fairly old and used to be the best Kabul has to offer.

Contact

Stay safe

There sometimes is a kidnap threat. Westerners are occasionally targeted by criminals or Taliban sympathisers. Riots occasionally happen and are often accompanied by looting. The authorities will respond with lethal force. Travellers should seek out a respectable guide or a tour company in the country.

Cope

Read the Scene magazine for restaurant reviews and all sorts of useful info. It is free, although expect street sellers to charge for it. There are many FM radio stations. However, the only widely available English language broadcast is from the BBC World Service on 101.6MHz.

Get out

Most people take any opportinity they can to leave Kabul. A weekend in Dubai, day trip to the north (Shamali plain, Salang Pass and Jabal os Saraj), Qargha reservoir etc.