Jinju [1](진주, 晋州), formerly Chinju, is in South Gyeongsang province, South Korea.

Jinju and the Nam River from the fortress

Understand

Orienting yourself in Jinju is easy. The town is cut in half by the Nam River (Namgang), with the Jinju Fortress, most hotels and the intercity bus station all on the north bank. The train station, the express bus station and commercial-residential sprawl lie on the south bank.

Get in

By plane

Jinju's Sacheon Airport (HIN), 20 km away from the city, fields half a dozen flights daily to Seoul's Gimpo Airport. Buses to the city center take 25 minutes and cost W3000.

By bus

Bus is the easiest way of reaching Jinju. There are departures every ten minutes from Busan's Seobu terminal (1.5h, W6900) and from Masan (1h, W4000), as well as every 20-30 min from Seoul (4h).

By train

There are 5 services daily to Seoul (6.5h) and 4 to Busan (3h).

Get around

Jinju is a small city, so if you have a detailed street map, you can simply get around on foot. Buses are available but you'll find it hard to use it unless you speak Korean, since bus stop signs are almost exclusively in Korean and your average bus driver won't speak English. Taxi is a good option as well, it's unlikely that you pay more than 5 USD.

See

Most sights in Jinju are located on the grounds of the Jinju Fortress (진주성 Jinjuseong), at the west end of the north bank. Jinju's moment of glory came in 1592 during the Imjin War, when a force of just 3,800 Koreans held off an invading army of 20,000 Japanese. Unfortunately, the Japanese came back the next year with an army of 70,000 — Jinju was finally crushed and all defenders were killed or committed suicide. Admission to the fortress grounds costs W1000, open 9 AM to 10 PM daily.

• Chokseongnu Pavilion, at the east end of the fortress. The command base during the battles of Jinju, this beautiful pavilion is next to the cliff with commanding views across the river. During days of peace, civil service exams were held here.

• Jinju National Museum, at west end of fortress, [2]. A small but well-presented branch of the National Museum specializing in the Imjin War. Labeling in English is a little spotty but mostly sufficient. At time of writing, an interesting (if rather propagandistic) 3D film on the First Battle of Jinju is being screened hourly for free. Admission W1000/free adults/children, open daily except Monday from 9 AM to 5 PM or later.

• Nongae Shrine, next to Chokseongnu. Commemorates the gisaeng (courtesan) Nongae, who seduced a Japanese general after their victory in the second battle, and with her arms wrapped around him plunged from the cliff to her — and his — death. The yearly Nongae Festival commemorates the event.

A few sights of minor interest are scattered elsewhere around town.

• Eunyeolsa Shrine. The birthplace of Confucian scholar Gang Mincheom, the shrine is small but picture-perfect.

Do

Buy

There´s an excellent silk outlet across the street from the fortress towards the main bridge. The prices are good and the quality and selection are excellent.

Eat

Bibimbap at Kwan Namgaek Sikdang

Jinju is famous for its bibimbap (비빔밥), which is rice topped with all sorts of goodies: add in your desired amount of gochujang paste, stir it up and enjoy. Another local delicacy is broiled eel (장어구이 jangeo-gui), eaten bulgogi-style with a dab of gochujang paste and wrapped in a sesame leaf.

• Kwan Namgaek Sikdang, next to National Museum. Coffee, drinks and pretty decent bibimbap sets (W5000). There's a bizarre collection of totem poles outside to stare at while you wait for your order.

• Yujeongjangeo (유정장어), north bank (just west of bridge) tel. +82-55-742-3113. Specializes in grilled eel. No English sign but easily spotted (it's the ornate traditional house), English menu on the wall. W15000 for a saltwater eel and the works, W13000 for freshwater, serves two if you order rice on the side (an extra W1000).

Drink

It is okay to drink the tap water in Jinju. Bottled waters are easily available as well.

I lived in Chinju in 1996, and at that time it was not wise to drink the tap water.

Sleep

Mid-range

There are lots of gaudy love hotels/yeogwan along the riverfront on both sides of the bus terminal. Rooms from W25,000 up.

Splurge

• Asia Lakeside Hotel, [3]. A business style hotel with marvellous views over a reservoir — the downside is the location 20 minutes from the city center by taxi. Both ondol and Western-style rooms from 120,000W.

• Dongbang Tourist Hotel, east end of north bank, tel. +82-55-743-0131, [4]. Jinju's premier city centre hotel, getting older but still in good shape. Spa/sauna complex and a number of rooftop restaurants and bars. Ondol/Western rooms from 106,000W plus taxes. English spoken.

Get out