Denali (Mt. McKinley) from Reflection Pond

Denali National Park [1] is a United States National Park that is home to Mt. McKinley, North America's highest mountain, known to the native Athabascan Indians as Denali. In addition, the park protects an incredible wilderness area that contains grizzly bears, caribou, moose, wolves, and numerous other creatures. It is located in the state of Alaska, 240 miles north of Anchorage and 120 miles south of Fairbanks.

Understand

Denali National Park comprises a massive area of six million acres, slightly more than the entire state of Massachusetts. The park is best known for the 20,320 foot Denali/Mt. McKinley (named after then-senator and future President William McKinley). The tremendous 18,000 foot difference from the mountain's lowlands near Wonder Lake up to its peak is a greater vertical relief than that of Mount Everest.

History

The park was established in 1917 as a wildlife refuge. It was originally named Mount McKinley National Park, but in 1980 the park was renamed and expanded in size by four million acres as part of the Alaska National Lands Interest Conservation Act (ANLICA). Today the park is managed as three separate units: Denali Wilderness is made up of the original Mount McKinley National Park and is managed to retain the undeveloped wilderness with no hunting allowed. The Denali National Park management area includes some of the 1980 additions and allows subsistence hunting. Denali National Preserve includes two areas of the park within which sport and subsistence hunting are allowed on a permit basis.

Landscape

Denali, the "High One," is the name Athabascan native people gave the massive peak that crowns the 600-mile-long Alaska Range. Permafrost ground underlies many areas of the park, where only a thin layer of topsoil is available to support life. After the continental glaciers retreated from most of the park 10,000 to 14,000 years ago, hundreds of years were required to begin building new soils and revegetation. The dynamic glaciated landscape provides large rivers, countless lakes and ponds, and unique landforms which form the foundation of the ecosystems that thrive Denali

Flora and fauna

Dall sheep near Savage River

The terrain of Denali includes "tundra" and "taiga" zones. Taiga zones are made up of the stubby evergreen, spruce and aspen trees that are found in areas around the Arctic Circle. The taiga zone within Denali extends to approximately 2700 feet above sea level, above which few trees are found. The treeless areas of the park can generally be classified as tundra. Within a tundra zone the plants are often miniaturized, including tiny flowers, extensive mosses, and various shrubs. Be aware of the willow thickets in the tundra zone as they can be a major impediment while hiking.

The original reason for creating the park was due to its abundance of large mammals. Today it is common to see grizzly bears, caribou, Dall sheep, moose, and foxes throughout the park. Less common but still regularly seen are the park's many wolves. Black bears are also occasionally seen, and the very lucky visitor might glimpse a wolverine.

Climate

The weather in the park can vary greatly. Snow is possible at any time of year, with summer temperatures generally ranging from 35 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The mountain tends to create its own weather patterns, and is at least partially shrouded in cloud during most of the summer. If the mountain is "out" be sure to take advantage, as it may only be fully visible for a few days each month.

Get in

By car

Denali National Park is accessible by car from the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3), which runs between Fairbanks and Anchorage. The highway is open all year, although the main road through the park may close at any time due to weather conditions.

By train

During the summer the Alaska Railroad provides daily service to the park. Trains depart from both Anchorage and Fairbanks at 8:15 AM, arriving at noon from Fairbanks and at 3:45 from Anchorage. Trains departing from the park arrive at 8:15 PM in both Anchorage and Fairbanks. Fares vary throughout the season, with rates between $43 and $54 for a one-way ticket from Fairbanks to Denali, and between $103 and $129 from Anchorage to Denali. Rail tickets can be booked through Alaska Railroad [2].

By bus

Consult with a travel agent in either Fairbanks or Anchorage about traveling to the park by bus. Several tour operators provide service during the summer.

Fees/Permits

Individuals entering the park must pay a $10 fee, good for seven days. Fees for families is $20, also good for seven days. Those with a National Park Pass ($50, allows entrance to all national park areas for one year) do not need to pay the entrance fee.

Get around

Denali Park Road Map

By car

The main road through the park is open to automobile traffic only as far as Savage River (mile 14). Travel beyond this point is allowed only on the park shuttle buses, on foot, or on a bicycle.

For those visiting Denali in mid-September the park service opens the road completely for four days after the shuttle buses stop running. Only 400 vehicles per day are admitted, and each vehicle requires a special permit. To obtain one of these permits contact the park and inquire about the Denali Road Lottery. The park service will ask you to mail your address, preference of dates, and a fee, and at some point in August you will be contacted if you have been selected. If snow has not yet closed the road, once the four-day lottery is complete the road will be opened to private vehicles for travel as far as Teklanika Campground (mile 29) until weather closes it for the season.

By shuttle bus

Shuttle buses are allowed past Savage River (mile 15) on the park road, as far as Kantishna (the end of the road). Passengers may disembark from the buses at any point west of mile 20, and then re-board any bus on a space-available basis. Anyone disembarking should be aware of the bus schedule, and plan for at least a one hour wait for a bus with seats available to arrive.

Shuttle bus reservations can be made either by following the instructions at the National Park Service web site [3] or in person at the reservation desk in the visitor center. Be aware that buses may fill several days in advance, especially during the height of the summer visitor season.

2005 Shuttle Bus Prices (including reservation fee):

• Savage River Shuttle (Mile 14). 2 hour round-trip, leaving hourly during the summer. No charge.
• Riley Creek Shuttle. Travels between the Railroad/Visitor complex and Riley Creek mercantile, leaving approximately every 30 minutes. No charge.
• Sled Dog Demonstration Shuttle. Provides transportation from the Railroad/Visitor Complex to the demonstration site. Boarding begins 40 minutes before each 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm demonstration on a space-available basis. Departures will be no later than 20 minutes prior to demonstration time; there are no late departures for this service. No charge.
• Toklat (Mile 53). 6 hour round-trip, $19.00 per person (Youth price $9.50).
• Eielson (Mile 66). 8 hour round-trip, $24.25 per person (Youth price $12.00).
• Wonder Lake (Mile 86). 11 hour round-trip, $33.25 per person (Youth price $16.50).
• Kantishna (Mile 91). 13 hour round-trip, $36.25 per person (Youth price $18.00).

Youth prices are for individuals age 15 to 17. There is no charge on any of the shuttle buses for children age 14 and under. Fees for camper/backpacker dropoff is $24.25 for all destinations (Youth price $12.00).

By foot

There are few trails within the park, but visitors are allowed (and often encouraged) to choose their own paths across the tundra. The less-adventurous may choose to simply amble along the park road after Savage River; keep an eye out for buses and wildlife when traveling on the road.

By bike

A mountain bike is a great option for traveling on the park road. Many bikers arrange backcountry permits at the visitor center that allow them to spend a few days traveling out to Wonder Lake and back. If planning a trip by bike along the park road be prepared for travel on a dirt road with several major mountain passes and few guard rails.

See

The park is enormous, and the vast majority of it is accessible only on foot or (in winter) by dog sled. The first fourteen miles of the park road are open to vehicle travel, and park buses are available to take visitors further. At a minimum, visitors should try to catch a bus to at least Eilson Visitor Center for the incredible views of the mountain (when it's out). Slightly more adventurous visitors should plan to spend a few nights camping at the Wonder Lake campground. For the serious outdoorsmen, several days backpacking in the backcountry is far and away the best way to enjoy the Denali experience.

• Visitor Center (Mile 1.5). A new visitor center, located near the railroad depot, opened in May 2005. The visitor center provides a slide show and interpretative programs about the park, and is also where shuttle bus reservations and backcountry permits can be arranged.
• Savage River (Mile 14). Nearly everyone who drives to Denali will stop at Savage River because traffic beyond this point is not permitted for private vehicles. There are several trails on both sides of the river that leave from the parking lot, and the more adventurous can attempt to seek out Dall sheep on the top of Mount Margaret, which rises across the river from the parking lot.
• Eielson Visitor Center (Mile 66). Eielson is most easily reached by shuttle bus and provides one of the most dramatic views of the mountain, if you are lucky enough to visit on a day when it isn't shrouded in clouds. There are several short trails around the visitor center, and displays inside of the visitor center provide info on the natural history of the area.
• Wonder Lake (Mile 86). Forever immortalized by the photos of Ansel Adams, Wonder Lake is a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. Reflection Pond, along the park road on the east side of the lake, is a favorite of photographers when the mountain is out. A trail to the heavily braided McKinley River is also worthwhile for a glimpse of a large glacial river.
• Sled Dog Demonstrations. The park service keeps sled dogs for use in the winter, and during the summer offers daily demonstrations for visitors. Demonstrations are at 10:00 AM, 2:00 PM, and 4:00 PM and last for thirty minutes. There is no parking at the demonstration site; you must take a shuttle.

Do

Caribou near Savage River

The park is an outdoor paradise, and offers activities for visitors of all ages and experience levels.

• Bus tour. Since the park road is closed to private vehicle traffic, bus tours are the easiest way to see the park interior. Note that the park service and Denali Park Resorts both offer bus tours, but the Denali Park Resort tours are more expensive and do not allow passengers to disembark and walk around. See the Shuttle bus section for more information.
• Hiking. There are a handful of trails within the park, but the majority of visitors will eventually find themselves picking out their own path. When hiking off trail it is best if groups spread out and avoid hiking single-file in order to minimize damage to the vegetation from being repeatedly trod upon.
• Backpacking. It is not only possible but likely that a backpacker can travel for days without seeing another human. Permits are required for all overnight stays and can be acquired at the visitor center. Strict limits are placed on how many people may camp in any park "zone" at a given time, so permits for popular areas should be reserved in advance. See the National Park Service web site [4] for a description of all backcountry zones in the park.
• Photography. Just about every famous nature photographer will at some point make a visit to Denali for its tremendous landscapes and abundance of wildlife. Amateurs will appreciate the opportunity as well.
• Mountaineering. Denali itself is one of the most challenging climbs in the world, but climbers from all over are drawn to it, as well as to the other peaks of the Alaska Range. Climbers on Denali and Mt. Foraker must register with the park service and pay a $200 fee. Registration must be done at least sixty days prior to climbing. Contact the Talkeetna Ranger Station (Tel: 907-733-2231, [5]) for additional information.
• Whitewater rafting. Whitewater rafting is available on the near-freezing waters of the Nenana River, which parallels the Parks Highway. Two different two hour trips are available for $70 each, or they can be combined into a four hour trip for $95. Contact Denali Raft Adventures [6] or the Denali Outdoor Center [7] for information.

Buy

Meals, gas, camping supplies, and a ridiculous variety of souvenirs can be purchased just outside of the park entrance on the Parks Highway. Within the park, the Riley Creek Mercantile sells basic supplies, including such things as propane for cook stoves, bug repellent, and other necessities.

Eat

There are several cafeterias and restaurants clustered outside of the park entrance along the George Parks Highway. Within the park the Riley Creek Mercantile (located a half mile from the park entrance) offers small food items and supplies. The Morino Grill, located 1.5 miles from the park entrance, is open during the summer and offers prepared meals.

Drink

• Black Bear Coffee House & Cyber Cafe, Mile 238.5 Parks Hwy, Tel: 907-683-1656, [8]. Located just north of the park entrance, this cyber cafe serves coffee, snacks, and also has beer and wine available for purchase. Open from 6:00 AM to 10:30 PM daily.

Sleep

Lodging

Numerous hotels cluster just outside of the park entrance, and a handful of wilderness lodges can be found at the end of the park road in Kantishna or scattered in remote areas just outside of the park's borders.

Inside the Park

• Kantishna Roadhouse, Tel: (800) 942-7240, [9]. Located at the end of the park road, deep within Denali National Park. Log cabin lodging with private bath, meals, guided hiking, and other activities. $360 per person per night, based on double occupancy. Extremely expensive, but one of the only options other than camping that allows visitors to spend time in the interior of the park.
• Denali Backcountry Lodge, Tel: (800) 841-0692, [10]. Located ninety-five miles into the park at the end of the park road. $560 for a single traveller, $375 per person for double occupancy. Costs include all meals, activities, and travel by bus from the park entrance.
• Camp Denali and North Face Lodge, Tel: (907) 683-2290, [11]. Sister camps located in the middle of the park, in the Wonder Lake area. The two lodges accommodate 35-40 guests each and provide an excellent way to see the interior of the park for multiple days without multiple days of bus travel. The minimum stay at either location is three or four days, but there are naturalists on the staff, and their guided tours and knowledge of the park usually make this time too short. Regular nightly programs provide detailed information about the park, and its flora and fauna. $500 for a single traveler, $400 per person based upon double occupancy includes meals, activities and travel by bus from the park entrance.
• Hawks Nest Cabin, Tel: (907) 683-2290, [12]. Associated with Camp Denali and the North Face Lodge, this cabin is set aside for those who want to go it alone within the park. This cabin accommodates a maximum of four people, and goes for approximately $425 per night for the 2006 season. The price includes paperwork for approval of private automobile travel into the park, housekeeping and lodging.

Outside the Park

• Denali Cabins, Mile 229 Parks Hwy, Tel: (877) 233-6254, (907) 376-1992, Fax: (907) 376-1999, info@denali-cabins.com, [13]. 45 cedar cabins located near the park entrance along the George Parks Highway. Facilities include private baths, cable television, outdoor hot tubs, and full tour services. $99 - $299 per night (prices vary by season).
• Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge, Mile 238.5 Parks Hwy. A high-end lodge located just outside of the park entrance along the George Parks Highway. Facilities include restaurants, private baths, cable television, outdoor hot tubs, meeting facilities, and full tour services. $99 - $249 per night (prices vary by season).
• Grande Denali Lodge, Mile 238.2 Parks Hwy, Tel: (907) 683-8500, Fax: (907) 683-8599, info@denalialaska.com, [14]. 150 guest rooms with queen beds, as well as a selection of cabins. Shuttle service into the park is provided. $180-$330 per night (prices vary by season).
• Denali Mountain Morning Hostel, Mile 224.5 Parks Hwy, Tel: (907) 683-7503, Fax: (907) 683-7504, akhostel@hotmail.com, [15]. Located thirteen miles south of the park entrance, this hostel provides a free shuttle into the park, high speed internet access, a full kitchen, and gear rental. Open from May through September. Beds are $25 per person, rooms for two people are $65, and cabins are available from $75-$130 (maximum four people).

Camping

For those not quite ready for the backcountry experience, the park offers several campgrounds. Be aware that reservations are highly recommended during the summer months as campgrounds fill quickly (see the National Parks web site [16] for reservation information).

• Riley Creek Campground (Year round). Located near the park entrance, this campground offers 150 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $12/night for a walk-in site, and $19/night for a drive-in site during the summer; fees are waived in the off-season.
• Savage River Campground (Summer only). Located 13 miles from the park entrance near Savage River, this campground offers 33 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $18/night.
• Sanctuary River Campground (Summer only). Located 23 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 7 tent-only sites. There is no water available, and toilets are chemical. Costs are $9/night.
• Teklanika River Campground (Summer only). Located 29 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 53 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $16/night with a three night minimum. THIS CAMPGROUND IS CURRENTLY CLOSED TO TENT CAMPING - HARDSIDE CAMPERS ONLY.
• Igloo Creek Campground. THIS CAMPGROUND IS CLOSED TO PROTECT LOCAL WOLF PACKS.
• Wonder Lake Campground (Summer only). Located 85 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 28 tent-only sites. Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $16/night plus a one-time reservation fee of $4. When the weather is clear and the mountain comes out from the clouds this is one of the most scenic places in the world.

Backcountry

For backcountry camping in Denali, a permit – as well as experience in backcountry camping – is required. If you get into trouble there will not be anyone within miles to go to for help, and rangers will not come looking for you unless you are more than a day late in returning. You will encounter large animals and vicious swarms of bugs, you will probably have to deal with weather that can change from sun to freezing rain in short periods, and you will most likely have to ford freezing streams and navigate dense willow thickets. With that warning, Denali is a magnificent place for experienced campers to go backpacking, and the nature experience is truly awe-inspiring.

Stay safe

Be prepared for massive hordes of blood-thirsty, man-eating, baby-snatching insects that will do their best to drive you from the park. Depending on winds and the time of year you may be lucky enough to avoid the bugs, but when they are out, the mosquitoes and black flies will do their utmost to test your sanity. Bug repellent is not sufficient; even if they don't land and bite, they will still buzz into your ears and eyes. Buy a mosquito-netting headcovering, and wear clothing that is capable of covering every millimeter of exposed skin.

The most advertised danger within the park are the bears. Grizzly bears are large, unpredictable, and can be dangerous, especially if they are with young. However, the same can be said of moose, caribou, wolves, and several other park animals. Keep a safe distance from all animals, make some noise while hiking to allow animals to identify you and avoid surprise encounters, and properly store all food, toiletries, and garbage to avoid attracting wildlife.

There are few trails within the park, so be aware of where you are when hiking. The tundra is fairly open, so in general it is not easy to get lost. If you have to ford a stream be very careful, as the water will be very cold and the currents are almost always stronger than they look. If you are pulled under there is a great danger of spraining or breaking bones, and hypothermia can set in if you can't quickly get out of wet clothes and into dry ones.

Should problems be encountered, there is a small medical center located 13 miles north of the park entrance in Healy. Fairbanks, located 120 miles north of the park entrance, is the nearest large hospital facility. Rangers can respond to emergency situations and can be contacted using the 911 emergency service.

Get out

• Fairbanks.