For other places with the same name, see Bombay (disambiguation).

Mumbai, earlier known as Bombay, is the largest city in India and the capital of Maharashtra state. Mumbai was originally a conglomeration of 7 islands on the Konkan coastline which over time were joined to form the island city of Bombay. The island was in turn joined with the neighbouring island of Salsette to form Greater Bombay. The city has an estimated metropolitan population of 17 million (2005), making it one of the largest cities in the world. Mumbai is also one of India's largest port cities and looms large as the commercial capital of India. Mumbai's nature as the most eclectic and cosmopolitan Indian city is symbolised in the presence of Bollywood within the city, the centre of the globally-influential Hindi film and TV industries.

The Gateway of India is the most recognizable symbol of the city. It was built to commemorate the visit of the British Monarch to India in 1911.

Divisions

Mumbai is a city of many little neighbourhoods. The neighbourhood typically acquires its character from the community that migrated there and retains it even after the immigrants turn into residents settled there for generations. There is no commonly accepted way to group these neighbourhoods into larger districts. Each division here roughly corresponds to an area that was settled and developed in a particular wave of development.

• South Mumbai - Fort, Colaba, Malabar Hill, Nariman Point, Marine Lines, Tardeo.

The oldest areas of Mumbai. Contains Mumbai's downtown area and is considered the commercial capital of India. The richest neighbourhoods in the country are located here which command among the highest rates in the world. This is the primary tourist area of Mumbai and home to most of Mumbai's museums, art galleries, bars, upscale restaurants and the Gateway of India.

• South Central Mumbai - Byculla, Parel, Worli, Prabhadevi, Dadar.

Used to be Mumbai's industrial heartland, but went into decline when the industries did. Now this area has been revamped into a white-collar office location. Home to Mumbai's only zoo, the Worli seaface and the temple to what people consider the city's guardian diety. As you move north, it morphs into a nice middle-class locality.

• North Central Mumbai - Dharavi, Matunga, Vadala, Sion, Mahim.

Primarily an upper middle-class area, except for Dharavi, which contains Asia's largest slum. This area developed immediately after India's independence because of a wave of immigration. Part of the migrants were refugees from the partition.

• Central Line Suburbs - Kurla, Vidyavihar, Ghatkopar, Vikhroli, Kanjur Marg, Bhandup, Mulund. And you have the entire area between Andheri on the west to Ghatkopar in the east which covers Andheri (E), Saki Vihar and Powai.

This is a solidly middle class bastion, Mulund and Ghatkopar are home to predominantly middle and upper middle class populace many from the entrepreneurial Gujarati community. Except Powai, and especially Hiranandani Gardens which has rapidly become the multicultural bastion of the young and upwardly mobile.

• Harbour Line Suburbs - Chembur, Mankhurd, Govandi, Trombay.

Before the development of Navi Mumbai as a satellite town of Bombay, this area used to be known only for the existence of an atomic research centre hereabouts. Now this is known for being on the way to Navi Mumbai.

• Western Line Suburbs - Bandra, Khar, Santa cruz, Juhu, Vile Parle, Andheri, Powai.

Contains Bombay's other downtown and is home to those rich who can't afford South Bombay. It has some beaches, but not very clean. Home to a large Christian community and the city's most famous church. Also this is where the city's two airports are.

• Northwest Mumbai - Jogeshwari, Goregaon, Malad, Kandivali, Borivali, Dahisar.

This is where you go to find beaches that are not dirty. Other than this, it is just another victim of Bombay's vast urban sprawl.

Understand

Carvings at the Elephanta Caves

The official name of the city Mumbai is an eponym derived from Mumba, the name of the local Hindu goddess Mumbadevi, and Aai, meaning "mother" in Marathi. Portuguese explorers named the area "Bom Bahia" in the 16th century, translating as "Good Bay" and obviously referring to the deep water harbour. This designation was gradually corrupted to "Bomaím" and, after the British gained possession, the name was anglicised to Bombay. The name was officially changed from Bombay to Mumbai in 1995, but the former name is still popularly used in the West to refer to the city, and is still used as an alternative by many of the city's inhabitants and famous institutions.

History

Though the seven islands that now make up the city have a long recorded history like any other place in India, their journey to form the city of Bombay really started in 1498, when the Portuguese took them over from the Sultan of Gujarat. They built a settlement, some forts and some churches, (including the strange looking Portuguese Church that stands to this day.) They however, could not make much of their possession and the seven islands were handed over to England in 1661 as part of the dowry of Catherine de Braganza when she married Charles II of England. He wasn't very interested in the islands either, and he leased them to the British East India Company for £10 a year in 1668. The East India Company built the docks, the trading posts and the fort that would form the nerve centre of the city. They also started off the long process of reclaiming land and joining the islands, an activity which went on right up to the 1960s.

The port attracted industries and the entrepreneurial communities like the Parsis, Gujaratis and Marwaris (from Rajasthan) migrated and set up trading companies and factories in the late 19th century. Industries attracted migrant labour from different parts of the country. The successive waves of migration shaped the character of the city and its neighbourhoods.

The city that owes its existence to the efforts of the British was also the birthplace of the Indian National Congress, which played an overwhelmingly important role in the independence movement. The city whose mills were built by industrialists from across the country is the capital of Maharashtra state, which (like most other in India) was carved on linguistic lines for Marathi speakers.

Culture and attitudes

Mumbai is the most cosmopolitan city in India. Compared to the rest of the country, attitudes are quite liberal, though that is not saying much. Because almost everyone is an immigrant, the citizens have learnt to tolerate and even like one another. But this tolerance has sometimes broken down. Between the 60s and 80s, there was resentment about the non-Marathi speakers taking away jobs. There were riots in 1991 and 1993 between Hindus and Muslims. Sometimes the city is subject to periodic fits of morality and the policemen go after couples displaying affection. But the city mostly manages to recover from these.

Climate

Mumbai has three main seasons - Summer, Monsoon and Winter (milder summer). November-February, winter time, is the best time to visit. March-May is the summer with another hot spell late September. June to September is the monsoon season when the city is lashed by heavy rain. The city gets flooded 2 or 3 times and normal life gets disrupted during this season. Climate is humid pretty much throughout the year because it is on the coast.

Get in

By plane

The domestic terminal 1A of Chattrapati Shivaji International Airport.

Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport [1] (BOM) is India's busiest airport is the primary international gateway to the country.

The airport consists of two terminals : International Terminal (Terminal 2, Sahar) and a Domestic Terminal (Terminal 1, Santacruz). Both terminals use the same airspace but are physically separated on land. There is a free (in theory) shuttle bus connecting them.

The Domestic Terminal is further divided into Terminals 1A and 1B. Terminal 1A serves Indian Airlines, its subsidiary Alliance Air and Kingfisher Airlines. Terminal 1B serves the various private airlines such as Jet Airways, Air Sahara etc. The International Terminal is divided into Terminal 2C (Air India and its partner airlines) and Terminal 2A (which serves most of the other International Airlines. Terminal 2B is unoperational at present. Terminal 2C is considerably better than the others. The domestic terminals are undergoing a long overdue upgrade. Terminal 1B now meets international standards and work is going on on Terminal 1A

Paid parking is available at the airport. The charges are Rs. 50 per 4-hour block for cars. Longer term parking is available in a "premium" area, but it is hideously expensive, amounting to Rs. 600 per day.

Travellers' opinions of the Mumbai's airport haven't been that great. Unfortunately, it's a bit of a fleapit and immigration is quite slow, although it is improving. The Government appoints corrupt officials in the airport, which means that they hang around for bribes.

The airport is 28 km from downtown. Take a prepaid coupon taxi to minimize hassle. Go to the taxi office and purchase a coupon to take to the driver. The coupon will have the taxi registration number written on it. Make sure that you get into that very taxi. Do not accept a lift from someone claiming to be a taxi driver as they may also charge much higher prices designed to target tourists. The charges will depend on the general area you need to get to, and will include all tolls to be paid. Most premium hotels will organise their own cars which is a much better alternative.

You can also take a bus/taxi to Vile Parle Station and take a local train from there. Travel 1st class to avoid hassle. Do not try this during the morning rush. It's a good option in the evening, since it's off-peak direction then. Vile Parle - Churchgate is Rs 21 (50 US cents) in 1st class.

By train

Trains arrive in Mumbai from all over India. The two major lines and one minor line serve different parts of the country. The Central line serves South India, Eastern India and parts of North India. The key stations are Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus, known just as VT), Dadar Terminus and Kurla Terminus. The Western line connects to the Western states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and some parts of North India. The main terminii are Mumbai Central and Bandra. The Konkan Railway (which is a separately administered and newly built line ) travels through the picturesque Konkan coast of Maharastra and is a good way to travel to Goa and coastal Karnataka. The main reservation offices are at Churchgate, Mumbai Central and Bandra on the Western line and CST and Dadar on Central line. There are special ticket windows and quotas for foreign tourists.

• Mumbai CST (Local Stn. CST)
• Mumbai Central (Local Stn. Mumbai Cenral)
• Dadar Terminus (Loal Stn. Dadar)
• Bandra Terminus (Local Stn. Bandra)
• Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Local Stn. Kurla)
• Belapur (Local Stn. Belapur CBD)
• Panvel (Local Stn. Panvel)

By bus

Mumbai is well served by buses from destinations inside India.

• The MSRTC (Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation), commonly known as ST, operates services to Mumbai from various cities in Maharashtra. Mumbai Central is most important Terminus in the city. All major cities in Maharashtra and nearby states are connected through Mumbai Central Terminus. The other important ST depots are at Parel, Nehru Nagar-Kurla and Borivali. You can get buses for all over Maharashtra from these depots. But from Mumbai Central you would get buses any time as well as other State Transport buses.

• There also exist numerous private bus operators who operate a large number of services from/to Mumbai from all the major cities of the country.

Get around

It is a good idea to equip yourself with the Eicher Mumbai City Map, the best and the most detailed map of Mumbai available. The book costs Rs. 250 and is available at most bookstores. It is updated quite frequently.

By car

Travel Agents and Hotels can arrange private chauffeur driven cars to provide services. Expensive by comparison with taxis, they are the most trusted, secure and comfortable way to travel around the city. Driving in India is an uphill task with the poor driver discipline and chauffeur services are very reasonable. These can be arranged by travel companies or online from the countries of origin.

There are specialist car dealers who rent cars for hire. Autoriders [2], Car hirers [3] and Ketan cars [4] are some of the more well-known.

By taxi

Taxis are cheap and plentiful ($50 would be worth a lot of taxi rides). Taxis in Mumbai are small-medium sized cars. The now defunct Premier Padmini ("Fiat"), Fiat Uno and Tata Indica models are most common.

• Cool Cabs are Blue/Grey in colour and have electronic meters. You pay the amount on the meter. These cabs charge 40% higher than the ordinary taxis. Contact:
  • City Cool Cabs +91 22 2216 4466, +91 22 2218 9620, +91 22 5688 4466
  • Cool Cab +91 22 2490 5151, +91 22 2490 5152

• The standard Yellow and Black Taxi is not air-conditioned and generally uses mechanical meters. Calculating the fare is done by matching the meter reading with a tariff card to arrive at the final payable fare. The minimum fare is Rs. 13. Prepaid plans have the fare collected at the start and thus the meter reading is not applicable. Night charges apply from midnight to 5 a.m. when the fare is marked up by 25%.

Large items of luggage are chargeable at approximately Rs.10 per piece. Refer to the tariff card. If you have extra pieces of luggage, the boot (i.e. trunk) of the taxi will not provide sufficient space - one large suitcase is all that will fit there. Hiring a taxi with a top carrier will be better - top carriers can accommodate upto three large suitcases. Before starting the journey, ensure that the luggage is securely fastened to the carrier.

Generally the only way to call for the standard taxi is to hail one on the street. This will not be a problem if you are inside city limits (i.e. North Central Bombay and below), but if you are in the suburbs, you will be hard put to find a taxi as here they have been outcompeted by the cheaper auto-rickshaws. If you don't want to hire an auto, you will have to ask around and find a way to call for a taxi.

Follow the queue system to board a taxi. Quite frequently, tourists and new visitors are mobbed by unscrupulous taxi drivers. Most taximen are honest, but the dishonest ones tend to cluster around railway stations and airports where they can more easily find suckers. Unless you are taking a prepaid taxi, always ask taxis to go by the meter. At the start of the journey, ensure that the meter is visible and shows the flag-down fare/meter reading.

The maximum number of passengers allowed for a trip officially is four - three on the back seat and one in the front. However an additional person or a few kids can squeeze in. Seat belts are not mandatory for taxi passengers, and most taxis will not have them installed. The maximum speed that a taxi takes is 100 km/h.

By autorickshaw

Within the city limits, taxis are the only means of travel. However in the suburbs, the 3 wheeler autorickshaw (open taxi) is cheaper and more popular. In fact, autorickshaws are only allowed beyond Bandra in the western suburbs and beyond Sion in the central suburbs. The driver sits in the front and the three adult passengers in the rear. Space for luggage is minimal - a few handbags or briefcases can be accommodated. Most of the autorickshaws use CNG in Mumbai.

Like taxis, at the start of the journey, ensure the meter is visible and shows the flag-down and reading shows 1.00. If you are not sure that it was flagged down just then, ask the driver to flag it down once again. The minimum fare is Rs. 9. The meter remains at 1.00 for the first 2 km and every 0.10 movement indicates approx 200 meters (ie 1.00 for every 0.2 kms). The fare is Rs. 5 for every km, except for the first two kms for which it is Rs. 9. A simple way to calculate the fare is to multiply the reading by 10 and subtract 1 to get the fare in rupees. So if the meter shows 2.20, then the fare payable is Rs. 21. (and its 4.4 km). Similarly a reading of 4.90 would mean you have to pay Rs. 48 (and you travelled approximately about 9.8 km). The meter also keeps ticking if you are waiting and/or are stuck in traffic.

Autorickshaws are slower than cars (they are modified scooters in reality) and have terrible suspensions. Pregnant ladies are most strongly advised not to travel by autorickshaws since the combination of rash driving, poor suspensions and horrible road conditions have quite often led to serious complications. The autorickshaw is a slow vehicle and not recommended for very long distances.

By train

Mumbai suburban railway route map

Most people travel in Mumbai using the Suburban Rail Network commonly referred to as Locals. Mumbai has an extensive network, with three lines, the Western Line, the Central Main Line and the Harbour Line. Mumbai is a linear city and the Western Line travels from Churchgate to Virar via Mumbai's Western Suburbs. The Central Main Line travels from Mumbai CST (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) aka VT Victoria Terminus to Kalyan via Mumbai's Central Suburbs and Thane, with some services running beyond to Karjat, Khopoli and Kasara. The interchange point for these two lines is Dadar.

The Harbour Line has a common stretch between Mumbai CST (aka VT Victoria Terminus) and Vadala. The harbour line splits into two spurs, the main one running to Mumbai's Eastern Suburbs and Navi Mumbai, upto Panvel. The Interchange point of this line with the Central Main Line is at Kurla. The other spur of the Harbour Line runs upto Mahim on the Western Line and runs parallel upto Andheri. The interchange stations with the Western line are Bandra and Andheri.

Trains on all lines start operations after 4 am and close operations between midnight and 1 am. Second class travel is very cheap. However it is advisable to buy first class tickets as the economy class is extremely crowded. First Class can be quite expensive and if 4 people are travelling together a taxi might be better. Also avoid using local trains during rush hour, first class or otherwise. Rush hour is between 8:30 am and 10:30 am towards CST (VT) and Churchgate and between 5:30 pm and 8:30 pm in the opposite direction.

There are special coaches for women on both classes. These are generally less crowded and safer. But very late in the night, it might actually be safer to travel by the general coach than the first-class women's coach, as the latter may be absolutely empty except for you. Sometimes they have a cop guarding the coaches, but sometimes they won't. Use your judgement.

By bus

Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport (known as BEST) [5] provides efficient and comprehensive services connecting up all places of the city and the suburbs. Some services also link the city with the extended suburbs like Navi Mumbai, Thane and Mira-Bhayanadar areas. The services are well patronised and they would always have most of all seats occupied. There are bus stops all over the city. There is usually a crowd and sometimes there is a queue too. You have to get in through the rear entrance and off at the front. Tickets are issued by a uniformed "conductor" after you get in. Special seats are marked for Ladies, Senior Citizens, Handicapped, Expectant Women and Women with infants. They can get in from the front.

Buses run from 5 am to midnight. Selected routes run beyond these timings, even all night but with very reduced frequency. Average frequency between buses ranges from 5 to 30 minutes depending on the route. Fares are reasonable and buses can be travelled in even in peak hours, unlike trains which are far too crowded. Some trunk routes do get extremely crowded however. Peak hours also have traffic snarls which may depend on the area traversed and the state of the roads.

Buses are numbered, and the final destination is marked on the front in Marathi and on the side in English. Generally, buses around the city and trunk routes would be in the 1-199 series. Buses in the western suburbs would be the 200 series while those plying in the central and eastern suburbs would be in the 300 and 400 series. Services to Navi Mumbai are in the 500 series and buses to the Mira-Bhayander area are in the 700 series. The BEST website has a nifty tool [6] that will help you plan your journey.

Currently BEST has introduced the DayPass, a ticket valid all day on all buses except LTD and EXP services.

By ferry

These are a few intra-city ferry services

• Gateway of India - Elephanta caves - Fast boats and Catamarans operated by private operators. These are moderately priced. This is the only way to get to Elephanta Caves.
• Marve Jetty (Malad) - Manori Jetty - Cheap ferry (by BEST) connecting Manori and Gorai. Also services for Esselworld (Amusement Park)
• Versova (Andheri) - Madh Jetty - Cheap ferry connecting Madh/Erangal/Aksa/Marve.
• Gorai (Borivali) - Cheap ferry connecting Gorai Beach/Esselworld.

Talk

Many languages are spoken here, but Hindi, Marathi and English are the most prominent. At most places you will be able to get by with English, as most people you will encounter can communicate in broken English at the very least.

See

• Gateway of India(Local Stn. CST) This was built in 1911 to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India. This arch is the most recognizable symbol of the city.
• Elephanta Caves Elephanta Island, Mumbai [7] Check out these fine examples of rock sculptures dedicated to Shiva. Even though many of them have been vandalised by Portuguese invaders, their grandeur is hardly diminished. Every year around February, the Elephanta Festival [8] of music and dance takes place on this island in the backdrop of the sculptures. Take a ferry from the Gateway of India. The round trip costs Rs. 100 and will take 45 minutes one way.
• Prince of Wales Museum (Local Stn. Churchgate) 159-161, M.G. Road, Fort, Mumbai - 400 023. +91 22 2284 44 84, +91 22 2284 45 19 (fax: +91 22 2204 54 30 crescent@giasbm01.vsnl.net.in) [9] Now known as the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, the Prince of Wales museum is located near The Gateway of India next to Jehangir Art Gallery. Tue-Sun 10:15am. - 5:45pm.
• Jehangir Art Gallery (Local Stn. Churchgate) M.G.Road,Mumbai 400 023 +91 22 2204 4058 Entrance Free 11 a.m. - 7 p.m.
• Art Galleries There are several other art galleries in the "Kala Ghoda" district, walking distance from Colaba. Most notable being the Museum Gallery and the NGMA.
• Nehru Science Centre (Local Stn. Mahalaxmi) Dr. Edwin Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai 400 018 +91 22 2493 2667, +91 22 2493 4520, +91 22 24926042(fax: 91 22 2493 2668 nscm@vsnl.com, nscm@giasbm01.vsnl.net.in, Additional Contact[10] ) [11] A science museum, also contains the Discovery of India - a show on India's History named for Jawaharlal Nehru's book. It is spread over a relatively large area and surrounded by greenery. Check the website for prices and timings of different shows.
• Nehru Planetarium (Local Stn. Mahalaxmi) Dr. Edwin Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai 400 018 +91 22 2492 0510 (planetarium@nehrucentremumbai.com) [12] This is located next door to the Nehru Science Centre, has some interesting shows. Adult Rs. 35. Children Rs. 20 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
• Sanjay Gandhi National Park (Local Stn. Borivali) Borivali, Mumbai +91 22 2842 1174 Check out this relatively unknown national park, situated in north Mumbai. It's in Borivali, and serves as the lungs of Mumbai. It's quite famous for its leopards and the caves inside the park. 7:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
• Kanheri Caves (;;Local Stn. Borivali) Borivali, Mumbai is a nice place to visit for history enthusiasts. This is a complex of Buddhist temples cut out of the rock. 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.
• Veermata Jijabai Udyan (Local Stn. Byculla) - Mumbai's zoo, popularly known as Rani Baug ("Queen's garden" - The queen in question could be Victoria or Jijabai. See infobox.) or Byculla zoo, because it is in Byculla. This is a sad little zoo, mentioned here only because a guide is expected to mention it. Go there for the garden, not to look at the animals.
• Marine Drive Chowpatty (Local Stn. Marine Lines or Charni Rd) is the city's most famous beach. Situated at one end of Marine Drive, Mumbai's most famous promenade. This is not a place to sunbathe, however. Go here to watch the crowds enjoying themselves, and have Bhel puri, as a moderately famous Hindi song asks you to. Note that Chowpatty in Marathi means "beach". So you may hear people referring to other beaches suffixed with Chowpatty (For example "Juhu Chowpatty"). But if they say "Chowpatty" without qualification, they are referring to this place.
• Aarey milk colony is another green pocket of Mumbai. You can take a tour of the milk production plant and have a picnic outside.

There's more to see in Mumbai of course. The minor ones have been covered in the district pages. See South Bombay.

Do

Marine Drive

• Harbour Cruise, Gateway of India, +91 22 2202 3585. Cruises leave at 30 minutes frequency every day except during the monsoon season (June-September). Rs. 40.
• Heritage walks, Navyug Niketan, 185 Walkeshwar Road, Teenbatti, Mumbai 400 006 +91 22 2683 5856 +91 22 2369 0992 (Contact Brinda Gaitonde or Abha Bahl heritagewalks@hotmail.com) Organized by two architects, these walks take you around various historic and architecturally significant areas of the city. Walks are organized on the third sunday of every month (with a break in June and August for the monsoons) and the route varies each time. The walks last around 90 minutes. Rs. 100 (Discounted rates for students and the physically challenged)
• Enjoy the Mumbai Festival[13], held in January every year. In 2006, it took place between January 14-26. Sample the vibrant culture of the city. The festival covers theatre, sports, fashion, food and shopping.
• Elephanta Festival, Elephanta Island, Mumbai ( MTDC Reservation Division: +91 22 2202 6713, +91 22 2202 7762; Dadar, Near. Pritam Hotel: +91 22 2414 3200; Gateway of India: +91 22 2284 1877; Churchgate: +91 22 2209 3229; Rhythm House +91 222284 2835; Archies Gallery, Churchgate +91 22 2202 7511 Extn. 113, +9193246 35505) [14] of music and dance takes place around February every year. In 2006, it took place on February 11 and 12. The festival saw performances by renowned artists like Alarmel Valli, Sanjeev Abhyankar and Ananda Shankar. There will be traditional Koli dances and traditional food. 7:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. (both days. Ferries start 4 p.m. onwards), Rs. 300 (per day, includes to and fro journey by ferry from Gateway of India to Elephanta Island)
• It is a beautiful sight and experience to drive on Marine Drive.
• Also a very good place to hang out and take in the sea without the menacing crowds is Carter road and Bandstand in Mumbai's poshest suburb, Bandra .
• The Rock scene is very good in Mumbai, as compared to the rest of the country . These are very safe to go to and are recommended for rock fans. Most bands cover heavy metal acts like pantera, six feet under, slipknot etc. but at places like Not just jazz by the bay, there are treats for Jazz fans, as well. To try to find places with specific music tastes try asking students outside Mumbai's colleges.
• Rave Parties, (Local Stn. Karjat) a place outside Mumbai is known for its "rave" parties. Many international underground and electronic Djs like. Infected Mushroom, Skazi , Astral Projection , and others have played here . These parties are not well publicised and are often held on the quiet,so finding one might be tough. Note that this might be illegal, so caution is advised.
• If you can afford it, at $300/hour(including drinks & meals), rent the Taj's private yatch(has 2 sun decks and 3 bedrooms) for a cruise around the Mumbai harbour.

Learn

Yoga

• Iyengar Yogashraya (Local Stn. Lower Parel) Elmac House, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai +91 22 2494 8416 [15] This is the institute run by the renowned B K S Iyengar. Mon, Tue, Thurs, Sat: 6:30 p.m.-8 p.m. Rs. 111 per day
• The Yoga Institute (Local Stn. SantaCruz) Prabhat Colony, Yogendra Marg, Santa Cruz East, Mumbai +91 22 2611 0506 [16] This is the more famous of the Yoga institutes in the city. It is also probably more conveniently located if you are staying in the Western Suburbs. The Institute was founded in 1918 by Shri Yogendra as a research and educational organization and today is directed by his son Jayadeva Yogendra, Ph.D., who is also the editor of the quarterly magazine Yoga and Total Health.
• Kaivalyadham 43, (Local Stn. Marine Lines) Netaji Subhash Rd, Marine Drive, +91 22 2281 8417 [17]
• Free Yoga with Nikhamjiat various hubs like borivali , Mira road ( Jehangid Complex) various suburbs in Mumbai ever sunday early morning at 7 am by Nikam Guruji Followers.

Universities

• Indian Institute of Technology, Bombay [18] Ranks among the best technological institutes in India and has a worldwide reputation. The institute has quotas for children of Non-Resident Indians (people of Indian origin settled abroad) and also for foreign students.
• University of Mumbai [19] - The oldest university in India.
• VJTI [20] A reputable technological institute.
• SNDT University A reputable university for women, with main campus in Juhu and smaller campuses in Marine Lines and Ghatkopar.
• Sardar Patel College of Engineering [21] A reputable technological institute. Hub of Mechanical Engineering Department [22] of Mumbai University.
• Tata Institute of Social Sciences [23]
• Tata Institute of Fundamental Research [24]
• Jamnalal Bajaj Institute of Management Studies [25]

Work

Nariman Point aand Fort are the commercial hubs of the city and the most sought after destinations. Bandra-kurla has come up in recent years too, but remains less desirable. A good idea to make quick money is to work part-time in a BPO or a call center. A part-time job can pay you as much as $350 a month for just 6 hrs a day for 5 days in a week .note : only good for english speaking travellers. Foreigners can also earn a quick buck by doing cameos in Hindi movies.

Buy

• Buy some material and get some clothes made up by a tailor. It's an incredibly cheap way to get quality made-to-measure clothes. Usually only takes a couple of days.
• Also for antiques , see Mumbai's Chor bazaar located in the Grant Road suburb . Be careful as to what you are buying and also bargain a lot. theres nothing like taking a local along to shop for you
• Fashion Street (Mahatama Gandhi Road, Fort, Mumbai - From Chruchgate Station start walking towards Flora Fountain make a left turn and its a block down) - best place in Mumbai to buy cheap clothes. Bargaining/Haggling skills are a must if you want to shop here! Offer to pay 1/4 of the asking price or less and then work your way upwards!
• Burlingtons in the Taj is a tailor specializing in Indian outfits. The Oberoi shopping arcade (in the Oberoi hotel) has a variety of shops offering Indian leather, silks and handicrafts. The Colaba area bylands also have many shops selling antiques, carpets and chandelliars. Afgan Carpets (in Colaba, near Salvation Army) stocks vegetable dyed carpets.
• Crossroads Mall The largest shopping Mall in Mumbai, located on Tardeo Road, Tardeo.
• Atria Mall- Near Nehru Planetarium,Worli. One of the best malls in Mumbai. It is not as big as Inorbit Mall at Malad but the atmosphere is good. Well known brands are available. Avoid taking your car as the traffic can be bad in evenings and weekends.

• Phoenix Mills This is another great place for shopping. It is a mega center formed by converting an old cotton mill into a shopping center. It is home to numerous different things including lots and lots of shops, great restaurants, nightclubs, and a bowling alley. On weekends this area can get quite crowded, but in general this is a very safe place, with all the food clean and hygenic. There is also almost no chance of being scammed as all stores have price tags on their products
• Inorbit Mall Great Place for shopping.Situated at Malad linking Road.Auto Riksha would cost 25 -30 Rs from Goregaon. There are movie theatres in the mall with various international brand stores.Avoid going on weekends and holidays especially in the evening
• Infinity Mall Good place for shopping at Andheri (West) Linking Road. Includes movie theatres as well as one of the best book stores in Mumbai Landmark
• Colaba Causeway is filled with tourists and locals. It is located very close to the Gateway of India. It is a place where you will be able to find many authentic Indian souvenir. But foreigners will have to be very careful, as all these stores are road-side stalls. What may seem a good price that the person has quoted to you, it will actually be a rip off. Do not settle for anything more than one-fourth the quoted price.. If they refuse a price just walk away, and they will call you back quoting a lower price. Normally, the more you buy, the less you will have to pay for each individual item.
• Sarees - the best place to buy them is Dadar. The place is buzzing 12 months a year. On sundays the crowd can be maddening for outsiders. Good shops to buy Sarees are Dadar Emporium, Lazaree, RoopSangam. On N C Kelkar Road and Ranade Road you can buy almost everything a woman needs. Bargain Hard.

Eat

The dining experience at an upscale restaurant in Mumbai is more or less the same as anywhere else in the world. If you search hard enough, you will find cuisine from practically every part of the world represented in the city. But to get a real flavour of what's unique to Mumbai, you will have to go a little lower down the scale, and experience its street food and Irani cafes. That is what is described here. For individual restaurants and other places to eat, go to the individual district pages.

Speciality Restaurants

• Sea Food- Mahesh Lunch Home (near Fountain and in Juhu) and Trishna (Kala Ghoda)are the usual suspects and have been famous for their coastal cuisine. The latter is of course good, but had become too touristy by nature.
• Italian- Giovanni's (Juhu), Mezzo Mezzo (at the JW Marriott), Vetor (at the Hilton Towers, Celini (at the Grand Hyatt)
• North Western- Peshawari (at Maratha Sheraton, Andheri). Its sister restaurant Bukhara in Delhi has been recognized as the best Indian restaurant across the world. Try tandoori jhinga, the kebab platter, sikandari raan (leg of lamb) and mangoes and ice cream (only during summers). Kandahar (Oberoi) and Khybar (Kala Ghoda).
• Regional Indian- Dakshin (Maratha Sheraton) and Woodlands (Juhu) for south Indian, Oh! Calcutta for Bengali (at Tardeo), Poush (Andheri) for Kashmiri, Preetam's Dhaba (Dadar) and Urban Tadka (Mulund)for Punjabi food, Chetana (Kala Ghoda), Thacker's (Marine Drive) and Rajdhani (multiple locations) for Gujarati Thalis.
• General Indian - Sheetal Bukhara, Great Punjab (both in Bandra)
• Chinese- Mainland China ( Saki Naka) Ling's Pavillion (Colaba), Golden Dragon (Taj Mahal Hotel), Great Wall (Renaissance), Spices (JW Marriott), China Gate (Bandra), China White (Bandra). Royal China at VT (behind Sterling Cinema serves some of the best DimSum the city has to offer)
• Japanese- Wasabi by Morimoto (Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba) is Mumbai's most expensive restaurant, but Japanese food is on the menus of most Pan asian restaurants like Pan Asian (Maratha Sheraton), India Jones (The Oberoi) and Spices (JW Marriott), Japengo ( Atria Mall Worli).
• Combination Oriental- Pan Asian (at Maratha Sheraton), Seijo and Soul (Bandra), Joss (Kala Ghoda) has some of the best East Asian food in the country and at moderate prices (compared to hotels).
• Fusion - Zenzi (Waterfield Road, Bandra), Out of the Blue ( Pali Hill, Bandra)
• Lounge - Olive (Bandra), Rain (Juhu), Indigo
• Speciality Deli - Indigo Deli (Colaba), Moshe's (Cuffe Parade), Cafe Basilico
• Cafe - Leopold, Cafe Mondegar (both near Regal Cinema, Colaba) are great places to while away time, eat cheap and swig a beer or five.
• 24X7 Coffee Shops - Vista (Taj Land's End, Bandra), Hornby's Pavilion (ITC Grand Central), Lotus Cafe (JW Marriott), basically all the big hotels have one.
• Goan, Coastal - Goa Portuguesa (Mahim) Near Hinduja Hospital
• Mumbai Street Food - To experience the tastes and flavors of typical Mumbai chaat and yet not expose oneself to the dangers of unhygenic street food, check out Vitthal's Restaurant located on one of the lanes opposite Sterling Cinema (C.S.T.)

Street food stalls

Songs have been written about Mumbai's street food, and you will find that the hype is justified. You will find them at every street corner, but they are concentrated in beaches and around railway stations. It is difficult to categorize them, but there are

• Bhelpuri stalls, selling what in the rest of India would be called chaat. In Mumbai itself, the term chaat is rarely used.
• Vada pav stands, developed to provide nourishment to mill-workers in Mumbai's burgeoning mills. Now they are found everywhere, particularly in the railway stations.
• Sandwich stands - try them. Uniquely developed in Mumbai, you won't find anything like it anywhere else in India or the world.
• Chinese food stalls - you'll find them at many places, but they are particularly concentrated near Dadar railway station. They all have a typical Indian twist added to it, which is why it is frequetly called "Indian Chinese". Although it is great tasting, the hygiene of these places leaves a lot to be desired.

A tip: cheap and tasty food stalls are concentrated around the city's colleges.

One should only have the food that is cooked fresh in front of you. During the monsoons, it is advisable that all street food be avoided, due to the numerous flies which are always on the food.

Udupi restaurants

"Udupi" restaurants (or "hotels") are everywhere. They bear the name of the town of Udupi in Karnataka, but do not be misled into thinking that they specialize in the cuisine of Udupi. They serve pretty much everything, and that is their speciality.

Usually strictly vegetarian, these restaurants were started off by migrants from the district of Dakshina Kannada in Karnataka (of which Udupi is a part), to satisfy the palates of other migrants from the district. Over time, they gained popularity as places to have South Indian food. As the tastes of their customers evolved, their menus too evolved, so much that now you can find Mughlai, Indian Chinese, Bhelpuri and other chaats in addition to South Indian stuff. Amazingly, some places serve imitations of pizzas, burgers and sandwiches too!

They are fast food joints and sit-down restaurants combined. The reason to visit them is not to experience fine gourmet dining, but to have cheap, passably tasty and fairly hygienic food. There is no easy way to identify an Udupi restaurant - they are not a chain of restaurants and they may not have "Udupi" in their name - so you will have to ask.

Though present all over the city, they started in the Matunga area. Madras Cafe is one of the oldest Udipi Restaurants in King's Circle (Maheshwari Udyan)

Irani cafes

Absolutely the best for "Chai" and "Makhan-Pau (bread and butter). Also for assorted snacks, like Kheema-na-Patice, samosas, mava-na-cakes, etc. The best dish which is always on the menu is Kheema Pav. Kheema ( prepared from ground meat) & pav ( bread). One of the best places to eat is Cafe Military which is in the Fort area ( near the Bombay Stock Exchange). Majority of their customers are upscale like lawyers, bankers & stock brokers because of which the quality is good. Inspite of that the prices are very low, average entree would cost around US $ 1 or 40 Indian Rupees.

Thalis

If you order a thali (lit: "plate"), you will get a complete meal arranged on your plate, with a roti or chappati, rice and many different varieties of curries and curd. Ordering a thali is a popular option when you are hungry and in a hurry as it will usually be served blazingly fast. Most mid-level restaurants will have a thali on the menu, at least during lunch hours. Occasionally, they will be "unlimited", which means that some of the items are all-you-can-eat. The waiters will actually serve them at your table.

Of course, you will find many varieties of them, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. There is the South Indian thali. The "North Indian" thali translates to Mughlai, i.e. Punjabi. Do try the Gujarati or Rajasthani thalis if you can find them. They are sinfully filling and tasty. Rajdhani (At Crawford Market) serves up thalis in the Rajasthani style while Aram (near Mahim Church, Mahim) and Shree Thakker Bhojanalaya (off Kalbadevi Road) do filling and fabulous Gujarati thalis.

Fast food chains

Surprisingly, there is no fast-food chain in Mumbai serving Indian cuisine. But Western chains like McDonalds, Subway, Pizza hut, Dominos etc. have many outlets all over the city. But if you are a weary westerner looking for the taste of the familiar, be warned that all of them have rather heavily Indianized their menus, so you will find the stuff there as exotic as you found Bambaiyya food. However, Barista,[26] Cafe Coffee Day,[27] and Smokin' Joe's[28] are all Indian chains, although they don't serve Indian food. While Barista and Cafe Coffee Day, as there names suggest, serve coffee and pastries, Smokin' Joe's serves decent pizzas and is headquatered in Carmichael Rd, Mumbai.

What to eat

• Vada Pav, The vada is a mashed potato patty. Pav is a kind of bread that has its roots in Mumbai. (The word comes from the Portugese word "pão", for bread). The potato patty is sandwiched in the bread. Liberal helpings of three kinds of chutneys (sauces) are also added to the sandwich to make a seriously tasty snack. It is widely available on the streets and most folks price it Rs. 4 a piece. If you feel uncomfortable with the hygiene of a particular stall, avoid it. The Jumbo Vada Pav outlets at almost all train stations in the city are hygienic and its not risky to have Vada Pav from there.
• Pav bhaji. Again part of the street food culture - this is mashed vegetables cooked in spices, topped with butter and served piping hot with pav. Widely available.
• Bhel puri and sev puri. Again a classic Mumbai concoction, bhel-puri or bhel in short comprises mostly of puffed rice and assorted spices with a few chutneys. You can specify whether you want it spicy or bland and the vendor will make it for you. It is quite tasty and again ought to be had off the streets to get the real flavour. Most people though, like to flock to Juhu beach to try this out.
• Pani puri. For first timers, this can be seriously intriguing. The vendor hands you a plate. Next he takes a puri (it looks like a golf ball, but brown in color), makes a small hole in it, and dips the puri into two jars. These jars contain water - one tangy on a tamarind base, the other spicy on a mint base. He tops it off with some condiments and places the puri on your plate. You got to pick it with your hand and pop the whole thing into your mouth. The outcome is an explosion. Awesome. A word of caution here though. Make sure you don't have your pani puri from any vendor. The best vendors use only packaged water. Stick to that and enjoy the taste.
• Indian-Chinese, nothing like regular Chinese. For a typical Bambaiyya flavour, try the Chinese Bhelpuri!.
• Variations of world cuisine such as Tandoori Chicken Pizzas or McAloo Tikki burgers
• If you happen to be in Mumbai in summer, try eating some Hapus (Alphonso) mangoes.

Drink

Coffeeshops

There many coffeeshops in and around Mumbai. Try the Cafe Coffee Day and Barista chains of coffee shops there are the best around town and also serve some pretty neat coffee for cheap. There's the Cafe Mocha chain of coffee shops which also serve fruit flavoured hookas- South asian smoking pipes. If a small coffee and cookies place is what you are looking for, try Theobroma, it has an outlet at Cusrow Baug in Colaba. Those looking for a more native form of coffee can try the filter coffee, a milky coffee with origins from South India, from any Udipi restaurant.

Alcohol

• Toto's Garage Pub, 30, Lourdes Haven Pali Junction, Bandra West 400 050. (Off Pali Market) +91 22 2600 5494. Toto's is the closest you will ever come to a Western bar. The place fires up every single night throughout the week, the beer is great and the place is packed with locals and the occasional tourist. But don't go in expecting a seat. The tables are hard to get even if they're empty. They are parked with 'reserved' signs unless you are a party of 4 or 6. 6 p.m.-12 midnight. Rs. 250 (average per person)

• Indigo, An exclusive lounge & bar located at Colaba causeway behind Hotel Taj Mahal in South Mumbai is a not to miss destination. +91 22 56368980. On the expensive side with an average drink costing Rs. 250 upwards. Boasts of a large wine collection & also serves superb fusion food.

• Head to the nightclubs in Phoenix Mills: Ra & Lush. Jazz by the Bay (opposite Ambassador Hotel) is a small bar with live performances on most nights.

• The newly opened "Dome" in the Intercontinetal Hotel provides a great view of the city.

• Zenzi at Bandra sees a lot of the expatriate crowd apart from models and filmmakers. Drinks aren't chap and the service is slow but the place is always buzzing.

==Sleep== You can also find for-pay Wi-fi at the airport, provided by Tata Indicom.

Stay safe

One of the safest and economical place to stay in Mumbai is the YMCA. Reasonably priced accomodation are available at the Colaba, Bombay Central, Andheri and CBD Belapur Branches. For more details log on to www.ymcabombay.com

For a city of its size and global importance, Mumbai is quite safe. Though many people seem to think that Mumbai is full of underworld gangs and pickpocets, Mumbai is probably the safest city in the world with over 15 million inhabitants. However, there are a few basic safety tips -

• Keep your money, credit card, passport and important documents safely with you at all times.
• Do not display 500 and 1000 rupee notes in public.
• Beware of pickpockets on BEST buses.
• In case of danger, call 100 from your cell phone or the nearest phone booth.

Although violent crime in Mumbai is much less than in Delhi or in a large American city, it does sometimes occur.

Emergency numbers

• Police: 100
• Fire: 101
• Ambulance: 102

The services have improved quite a bit but they are more likely to respond to a phone call from a house/office etc rather than a public phone.

Cope

Get out

• Mumbai Metropolitan Region: The Mumbai Metropolitan Region around Mumbai is fast developing into a major conurbation. If you need to get to the surrounding cities of Thane, Navi Mumbai or Kalyan, bus services are available
  • TMT (Thane Municipal Transport) operates services in the Thane city and areas around it.
  • The MSRTC (Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation), commonly known as ST, operates services from selected points in the city to the extended suburbs. From Dadar, services to Navi Mumbai and Panvel and from Borivali to Thane being the most prominent. Numerous other important routes are also covered in the MMR (Mumbai Metropolitan Region) by the MSRTC.
  • NMMT (Navi Mumbai Municipal Transport) operates services in Navi Mumbai Area, and a few points around. They also have services from Mulund in Greater Mumbai.
  • KDMT (Kalyan Dombivali Municipal Transport) operates in the Kalyan-Dombivali Area with a few connections to Navi Mumbai.

The suburban train service, mentioned above, does a good job of connecting the surrounding cities.

• Raigad district of Maharashtra lies just south of Mumbai. It is famous for its beaches and forts. You can get there by road or by ferry from Mumbai. The important ferry routes are:
  • Ferry Wharf, Mazagaon - Mora (Uran)
  • Ferry Wharf, Mazagaon - Rewas (near Mandwa) -These are in the budget range.
  • Gateway of India - Rewas Fast boats and Catamarans operated by private operators. Service approximately every 2 hours, suspended during the monsoon season, i.e. May-October. From Rewas, take a bus or car to Alibag.

• Hillstations - Matheran, Lonavala, Khandala,Mount Abu.