The island of Hawaii comprises over half of the area of the state of Hawaii in the United States of America. It is almost universally called the Big Island partly to avoid confusion. It is home to the most active volcano in the world, located in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, as well as the largest mountain in the world in volume (Mauna Loa) and the tallest mountain in the world as measured from its base on the sea floor to its peak(Mauna Kea).

Halema'uma'u Crater at Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii.

Regions

• Ka'u - Between Puna and Kona
• East Coast
• West Coast
• Northwest

Cities

• Hilo -- Located on the east coast, Hilo is the island's capital and largest city. It is the second largest city in the state, after the capital, Honolulu
• Kona -- The largest town on the west coast.
• Hamakua
• Kohala
• Puna
• Waikoloa -- Resort area.
• Waimea -- Ranch town in the Northwest. Home of the Keck Observatory Headquarters.

Get in

By plane

There are two major airports if you are flying into the Big Island, Kona International Airport and Hilo International Airport. There are some direct flights from the mainland, mostly from California, but it is more common to arrive via Honolulu or Kahului. You should try to get a flight direct from the mainland to Kona to save time waiting (and walking) around the Honolulu airport. There is now a direct flight from the mainland to Hilo via ATA Airlines from Oakland, CA.

If you can't find a direct flight, consider that Kona's airport is by far busier and requires a lot of time to pass all checkpoints. Hilo's airport has fewer flights, is smaller, but time between rental drop-off and boarding is much shorter.

Inter-island "hoppers" arrive from all the other islands several times a day. Local flights are available through two main airlines, Hawaiian and Aloha, to the two major airports. In the past these inter-island flights operated like bus services, with frequent, inexpensive flights which did not require reservations. More recently, as a result of increased security after September 11, 2001, and the resulting decline in the airline industry, inter-island flights have become more expensive and less frequent. Calling these airlines, or booking tickets via the Internet, will save travelers an enormous amount of trouble. A third airline, Pacific Wings, began providing lower-cost flights to Hilo, Kona, and Kamuela. It was recently acquired by "West Coast Air." Keep in mind that an inter-island flight will use up almost an entire day, due to the fact that you must pack, check out of hotel, get to the airport, return rental car, go through all the airport procedures, fly, wait for luggage, get rental car, check in, unpack... It's tempting to try and see as many of the islands as you can on one trip, but it's best to spend no less than three nights on an island. In the case of the Big Island, think of the two sides of the island as separate. It's a minimum of over 2 hours to drive from Kona to Hilo.

By boat

Although several cruise ship lines operate in Hawaii, there is currently no dedicated inter-island boat service. Hawaii Superferry, a private company supported by the Hawaii state government, proposes to implement high-capacity catamaran ferry services as soon as 2006.

Get around

Renting a car is really the only way to see the island.

Getting around by local bus, bikes, or on foot work well if you're staying in one area. Many budget travelers are unpleasantly surprised by the lack of public transport on the Big Island. Although there are limited bus services from Hilo to destinations like Volcano or the Kona side, they require reservations, and travel on a minimal set schedule.

If you're thinking about renting a Jeep, Alamo doesn't disable the four wheel drive option in their Jeeps as some other rental agencies do. However, keep in mind that you ARE violating the rental contract by driving on "unpaved roads" (let alone some of the four wheel drive only roads). As long as you are careful and sensible about it though, you'll be fine. Just keep in mind that you are "on your own" if you get in trouble while violating the rental agreement. If you're going to violate the rental contract by driving on unpaved roads, you have less of a chance of getting stuck if you have the ability to shift to four wheel drive.

You may want to check Harper rentals for four wheel drive vehicles that are allowed by contract to drive on unpaved roads. You will pay more for that right.

See

• Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park, 30 miles (48.2 km) SW of Hilo on Hawaii 11, (808) 985-6000 (fax (808) 985-6004). Every day, 24 hours. Kilauea Visitor Center open every day 7:45 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is home to both the world's largest volcano, Mauna Loa (13,677 feet high), and the world's most active, Kilauea (continuously erupting since 1983). $10.00 per vehicle, $5.00 per pedestrian or bicycle, both prices for a 7 day permit. National Park Service passes accepted. http://www.nps.gov/havo/home.htm

• Mauna Kea, 28 miles (45.1 km) W of Hilo on Hawaii 20, then N on the access road to the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, (808) 961-2180. OCIA, named in memory of U.S. astronaut Ellison Onizuka, open daily 9AM - 10PM. Mauna Kea (13,796 feet), the largest mountain in the world (measured from its base) is a dormant volcano which has become an international center for astronomy. Several astronomical observatories are located on its summit. The austere Mars-like landscape dotted with technological marvels is worth a look; if it is clear you might also get a look out to Maui. The elevation is high, and there are few tourist support facilities so hiking and exploring are discouraged. Also keep an eye out for the nene, also known as the Hawaiian goose. The nene is the state bird and an endangered species.

Four wheel drive vehicles are strongly recommended above the OCIA. Several tour companies offer tours to the summit and observatories of Mauna Kea for a fee. Observatory facilities are normally closed to the public. Most rental car companies prohibit travel on Hawaii 20 (Saddle Road). No admission charge. http://www.ifa.hawaii.edu/mko/maunakea.htm

• Kula Kai Caverns

• Coffee Farms

• Black sand beaches formed by volcanic sand. There are currently two well-known and many less known black sand beaches. The former are Kehena Beach in the Puna district, and Punalu`u Beach in Ka`u district.

• Green sand beach at South Point. There is a parking lot and a shack which has been designated as a "visitor's center." If you park in this lot, there is a chance that someone will emerge with a clipboard and ask you to pay for parking. Several guide books make the point that this is public land and that you are allowed to park without paying any fee. While this may be true, this traveller's experience (March 2005) was that after refusing to pay the parking fee, the person asking for the fee became enraged and threatened physical violence unless our party departed immediately. A more promising alternative is to park at the boat launch, adding half a mile to your hike.

• Lava flows. Check the current status of the lava flow here. http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/update/. You can also hear a recording of the latest lava viewing opportunities by calling (808) 985 6000, then pressing "1" and "1". NOTE: 808 is Hawaii's area code, This is not a toll free number .

NEVER WALK OUT ON THE BEACH WHERE LAVA IS FLOWING INTO THE SEA. Read and obey all warnings given by the park. That said, the park rangers are very helpful in telling you where the lava is currently flowing (it changes all the time). Usually they'll let you walk right up to it as long as it's considered safe (no threat of methane explosions or lava bench collapse). The fact that the lava is 2000 degrees F naturally keeps people from getting too close!

• Dolphin and whale watching - seasonal.

• Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park, S of Kailua-Kona on Hawaii 11, then W on Hawaii 160 at Honaunau Post Office. (808) 328-2326. Open MTWTh 6AM - 8PM, FSaSu 6AM-11PM. Visitor center open daily 8AM - 5:30PM. Puuhonua o Honaunau is a great place to visit if you're interested in learning about Hawaiian heritage. Breakers of kapu (taboos) who could make it to this place and performed a series of rituals were granted sanctuary. Tours, traditional craft demos, simulations of the Hukilau (fishing with ti leaf ropes) and other activities can be seen here (schedules vary). Honu (turtles) can frequently be observed swimming in the royal fishpond. May be crowded with other tourists. $5.00 per vehicle or motorcycle with 2 people, $3.00 per pedestrian or bicycle, for 7 days. http://www.nps.gov/puho/

• Waipi`o Valley, a large, verdant valley in the North of the islands. This valley was inhabited for a millennium, until a tsunami washed away all dwellings. Left for good by the native population, it then became the green paradise of counterculture types.

Do

The Big Island has the usual array of sub-tropical island activities. While the Kona side has a number of white sand beaches, the coastline on the Hilo side tends to be rocky. This is due to the relative age of the coastline.

Swimming

The beaches of the Big Island, especially on the Kona side, have been consistently voted amongst the best beaches in the world. Some (like Mauna Kea Beach) front hotel resorts, while others (like Makalawena) remained unencumbered by modern tourism.

The island has one of the few green sand beaches in the world (see above), and several black sand beaches.

Snorkeling

The Big Island has some fantastic snorkeling. Go to Kona Boys to get your gear and some guidance on the best places to jump in. The Kona side has most of the best snorkeling, but Puna also has some excellent sites. Go in the morning on the Kona side, and in the afternoon in Puna, for clear and calm conditions.

• Two Step at Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge). Great for beginners and experts alike. Teeming with fish and turtles.
• Ho'okena Beach Park south of Honaunau is not as spectacular, but getting in and out of the water is incredibly easy: just walk. The enter at the left side of the beach for the best snorkeling. Go during the week, if you can (save the weekends for the locals).
• Kapoho Tide Pools on the southern Puna coast are not to be missed. This is some of the calmest snorkeling you will ever see, and the fish will come right up to you. The pools are spring-fed, and some are volcanically heated. There are no dive shops anywhere near here, so bring your gear with you (although a local may take pity on you and loan you theirs). Again, go during the week if you can. Marine scientists frequent this spot, and are usually happy to share their knowledge to make your visit to the tide pools more fulfilling.

Surfing

Hiking and camping

There are also hiking and camping tours too. Very convenient since humping camping equipment on a plane is difficult.

• Waipi’o Valley - Awe-inspiring volcanic valleys and gorges filled with rain forest vegetation.

Tours

The Big Island has a tour company for every possible tourist endeavor. If you don't see it covered here, search for it. Chances are there will be a tour guide for what you want to do.

• Helicopter tours over the volcano

• Mule/Horseback tours

• Snorkeling. A lot of fish and coral ogling can be done without getting a license, only a snorkel and some flippers are required. There are several good areas, like Cooke's cove and some of the more secluded beaches between Waikaloa and Kawaihi.

• SCUBA Diving - Kona has some great diving opportunities during the daytime, but the real thing to see here is the Manta Rays. All the dive operators in town do a night dive to see the giant mantas, and this is the best and most reliable place in the world to see them. The manta rays of Kona can be up to 16 feet wide and weigh almost 2000 lbs! On any given night there are 1-20 rays feeding at the dive site, and by bringing lights in the water, plankton (their food) is attracted to feed them. Divers sit in sand on the bottom about 30 feet deep and watch these huge but harmless fishes swim inches from their faces. A must do! Though it's at night, there is so much light in the water and it's so shallow that this is an easy dive for novice divers, as well as a very rewarding dive for even the most seasoned divers. Snorkelers can also get a great up close view of the mantas at the same time. All you have to do is float on the water and hold a light, it's very easy.

Companies to go with to see the mantas: Manta Ray Dives of Hawaii or Big Island Divers

• Sailing

• Fishing

• Biking. The Big Island hosts the Iron Man competition every year. So there is a lot of touring style cycling. Most of that is done on Highway 19 between Kona and Kawaihi. But there are also big trucks on that road, so be careful. Mountain biking is good around Waipi'o valley and in the Volcano park. But it can be technical. Mana road is also good for off-road cycling. But it is very long (65-70 miles around), you will need support or legs of iron to do it in a day.

• Hiking/Camping

Learn

Dance, culture, and traditional crafts classes are available for long or short term students. Many resorts offer 1-3 day classes in hula or lei making.

Work

Hawaii's unemployment rates are among the lowest in the nation, and thus it is impressive that the Big Island boasts one of the lowest unemployment rates in the state. While tourism, military, and agriculture have typically been the largest employers, recent new job growth has resulted primarily from a residential building boom. The astronomical observatories are another important group of employers.

Buy

Eat

• Hawaiian chocolate macadamia nut cookies
• poke (salad of raw fish)
• Ka'u oranges (ugly, but delicious)
• Señor Billy's Cantina in Captain Cook. Get an order of the incredible carnitas to go, and watch the sunset at the beach just past Pu'uhonua O Honaunau.
• The Coffee Shack in Captain Cook. Get an egg sandwich on Luau bread, and sit on the patio with a big mug of their coffee. Pet the house cat (be gentle, she's getting on in years).

Drink

• Kona coffee

Sleep

The Big Island is full of your typical style resorts. But there are great Bed and Breakfast type places and small operator hotels too.

• Mauna Lani Resort on the Kohala Coast. Great coastal views, large beautiful pool. The beach in front of the hotel is somewhat rocky. However, there is a sheltered beach just south of the hotel, very calm and good for little ones. As with many of the resorts on Kohala, the restaurants are quite pricey, and, for Hawaii, somewhat formal.

• Hilton Waikoloa Resort on the Kohala Coast. This gi-mongous resort is the Disneyland of Big Island. There is a monorail as well as a ferry boat to take you between buildings. The pool is like an amusement park, and you can actually swim with the resident dolphins. There is a nearby mall for somewhat less expensive dining options, but the restaurants on site are pretty swanky and not cheap.

• Dragonfly Ranch [1] An "eco-spa treehouse", Pleasures that include communing with friendly wild dolphins, snorkeling, diving, labyrinth, yoga space, organic garden, lomilomi massage, birding, hammock, flower essences, far infra red sauna, wireless high speed internet, hosting honeymoons, families, workshops and individuals.

• Kona Oceanfront Rentals [2] Beautiful oceanfront home and condos in gated communities the Kona Coast in Kauila-Kona.

• Waipio Wayside Inn [3] The historical Waipio Wayside Inn Bed and Breakfast is an old sugar plantation home in Honokaa and is located at the Hamakua coast line close to the Volcanoes National Park. A beautiful location for your Hawaii wedding.

• My Island Inn [4] A lovely B&B housed in a historic plantation house only a few miles from Volcano National Park. The hosts are long-time natives of the Hawaii Islands and are full of fantastic advice on touring the islands, as well as delightful stories of their own adventures here. The grounds are a beautifully kept profusion of flowers and fruit trees, and many of the fruits make their way into the plentiful (really plentiful!) and delicious breakfasts.

Stay safe

• Note that even solidified lava flows can still be very dangerous, as there are hidden flows of molten lava with only an overlying thin crust of rock in many places between Pu'u O'o and the shoreline. And of course there's the threat of methane explosions and lava bench collapses, so do not walk to the edge of the lava bench unless the rangers say it is safe to do so. Be careful, and make sure that your exit route remains open. The park rangers will clearly mark where not to go in the park and follow the signage.

The usual disclaimers about the more active things to do apply. If you have a tour guide, they often have insurance premiums to be beholden to and as such make them more aware of safety issues. But otherwise the island is mostly remote and help can be far away. Know your physical limits.

Cope

Get out