Bhaktapur or "the City of Devotees" is located in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal.

Understand

Bhaktapur can feel like a ghost town after the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, but its desolation just adds to the atmosphere of mystery and beauty. Bhaktapur has more temples per square foot than Patan or Kathmandu and is far enough out of town to keep the crowds away. As a World Heritage site listed by the UNESCO, Bhaktapur has been heavily restored since a 1934 earthquake severely damaged the city. To further restoration and preservation there is an entrance free for visitors. In September 2005 this was either 750 NRS or USD $10 for foreigners. Visitors from SAARC member countries (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) pay 50 NRS.

Get in

If you are not arriving as part of a tour group, your only options are the cute but decriptedly slow trolley buses that depart from outside the National Stadium south of Kathmandu's GPO or an equally dilapidated and probably crowded Barhabise-bound buses from Kathmandu's City Bus Park. For those who haven't experienced a public bus in South Asia, it will be a way to (literally!) rub shoulders with locals. In either case the ride takes about 40-60 minutes and drops you off just outside of town. The cost of the fare from Kathmandu to Bhaktapur is approximately 12 NRS (Sept 2005) by bus. According to guest house staff, a taxi from Thamel to Bhaktapur (one way) costs about 300 NRS. You can easily hail a taxi or pick up a return bus to either Patan or Kathmandu just outside of the first main gate that leads into the city.

Get around

Once in Bhaktapur, walking is really the only way to experience the quiet, dusty lanes squares. There are no rickshaws, tuk-tuks, or taxis allowed inside the city-- an inconvenience more than made up for by the quiet and clean air.

See

Insides

• National Art Gallery housed in the 55-Window Palace
• Brass & Bronze Museum
• Taleju Temple Complex

Outsides

• Bhaktapur's Dubar (Royal) Square, one of the best in the valley
• Dattatreya Square
• Pottery Square
• The Peacock Window, one of Nepal's signature sights
• Hanumanghat: a collection of lingams (including Nepal's largest) and riverside cremation ghats (not in use).

Do

Buy

Bhaktapur is all about pottery. You will see it everywhere, drying in the sun, displayed on tables and shelves in front of shops and homes alike. Metalwork and jewelry can also be found, but there's more selection on Patan's backstreets.

Eat

Don't leave Bhaktapur without trying some of their famous yogurt with local honey -- Juju-dhau, literally the "King of all yogurt."

Tourist restaurants can be found in almost every building surrounding Dubar Square. Small local restaurants can be found on the main road into town, but they will probably only serve Dhal Bhat Takari (lenis, rice, and mild vegetable curry) and tea.

Drink

Sleep

There's really no reason to stay the night in Bhaktaphur, and few places to do it. What accommodations there are can be found around Dubar Square.

• Golden Gate Guest House, between the Durbar and Taumadhi Squares. Tel: 610534, 612427; Fax: 977-1-611081, 612607; E-mail: bcci@wlink.com.np
• Pagoda Guesthouse & Cafe
• Shiva Guesthouse, a traditional Newari house. Durbar Square. Tel: 613942; Fax: 977-1-610740; E-mail: dhaubdel@mos.com.np

Get out