For other places with the same name, see Bethlehem (disambiguation).

Monk in the Franciscan Church of St Catherine

Bethlehem (Arabic: بيت لحم, Beit Lachem Hebrew: בית לחם Beit Lechem)[1] is a small city located some 10 km (6 miles) south of the Old City of Jerusalem within the West Bank territory occupied by Israel, in an "Area A" zone administered by the Palestinian Authority.

The "little town" of Bethlehem, mentioned in any number of Christmas carols, attracts pilgrims worldwide on account of its description in the New Testament (and particularly the Gospels) as the birthplace of Jesus, whom Christians believe to be Messiah and Son of God. The Church of the Nativity is the focus of Christian veneration within the city.

In somewhat related circumstances, although no longer a Jewish city, Bethlehem is revered by Jews as the birthplace and home town of David, King of Israel, as well as the traditional site of Rachel's Tomb (on the outskirts of the town).

Although also home to many Muslims, Bethlehem remains home to one of the largest Arab Christian communities in the Middle East (despite significant emigration in recent years, resulting in a growing Muslim majority) and one of the chief cultural and tourism drawcards for the Palestinian community. The Bethlehem agglomeration also includes the small towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour, the latter also having biblical significance.

Understand

Orientation

A long snake of a town, the main thoroughfare of Bethlehem is Manger Street which stretches from Rachel's Tomb (and the road to Jerusalem) all the way to Manger Square, the focal point of the city. Manger Square is flanked by the Church of the Nativity on one side and the Mosque of Omar on the other. The Old Town and the souq (market), which are best navigated on foot, stretch up the hill from Manger Square.

The name means "The House of Bread" in Hebrew, and "The House of Meat" in Arabic. However, it seems likely that both meanings have been retrofitted onto what was originally the House of Lachma, the Mesopotamian god of fertility. The area has been settled since 50,000 BC and there is some evidence that the town is mentioned in the Egyptian Amarna letters (1400 BC). The Old Testament Book of Ruth (c. 1150 BC) has the first certain reference to Bethlehem; it tells the story of Elimelech and Naomi, purportedly Bethlehem's first settlers. Still, Bethlehem remained a small town in the shadow of mighty Jerusalem, and according to most estimates it had some 300 to 1000 inhabitants at the time of the event that gave Bethlehem its fame, namely the birth of Jesus.

Somewhat surprisingly, aside from noting that the Nativity indeed took place there, the New Testament virtually ignores Bethlehem. And things didn't change immediately afterwards: wrecked during the Bar-Kochba revolt (132-135 AD), the Romans set up a shrine to Adonis on the site of the Nativity. Only in 326 was the first Christian church constructed, when Helen, the mother of the first Christian emperor, Constantine, visited Bethlehem. Afterwards it grew slowly but steadily, achieving its pinnacle as a strong fortified city during the Crusader era, but the Ottomans razed the fortifications and reduced Bethlehem back into the village it was 2000 years earlier.

The setback proved only temporary, and despite the turbulence of the 20th century the town has (as of 2000) grown to an estimated 184,000 inhabitants. On December 21, 1995, Bethlehem became one of the areas under the full control of the Palestinian Authority. In the city itself, 41% of the population is Christian, while 59% is Muslim.

Get in

Nearly all travellers arrive via Jerusalem. Since Bethlehem is administered by the Palestinian Authority, an Israeli military checkpoint stands on the road connecting the two locations. All travelers are subject to rigorous questioning and searches. If checkpoint security is stepped up (usually owing to local disturbances or tension), buses and service taxis may be delayed or cancelled entirely.

By bus

Arab bus 22 runs from East Jerusalem to Bethlehem, the average trip length is 40 minutes, but the trip may take longer depending upon the security situation.

By shared taxi

Shared taxis (sherut/servees) leave from Damascus Gate and manage the trip in 20 minutes.

On foot

Devoted pilgrims often prefer to walk (and in happier times there has been a large procession at Christmas), at a brisk pace the trip is doable in 2 hours but there are plenty of ups and downs along the way and the summer heat is fearsome.

Get around

See

• the Church of the Nativity, Manger Square - undoubtedly the top attraction in Bethlehem, a veritable citadel built fortress-like on top of the cave where Jesus was allegedly born to Mary. The first incarnation of the building was erected on the orders of the Roman Emperor Constantine I (the Great) in 330 CE. While the layout largely corresponds to Emperor Justinian's plans from 540 CE (the first building haveing been destroyed in a 536 riot), the church was first heavily fortified by the Crusaders and then degraded (mostly through neglect) under Mamluk rule. An earthquake in 1834 and a fire in 1869 didn't help. Today, the structure is mostly sound but somewhat dark and gloomy in appearance, only the adjoining Franciscan Church of St Catherine (dated 1881 and the site of the yearly December 24 midnight mass broadcast around the world) being in excellent shape. The actual alleged site of Jesus' birth, the Grotto of the Nativity, is accessible from inside the church. (The tomb of famed theologian and Bethlehem resident St. Jerome is also in the Grotto.) Entrance to the entire complex is free, but in the high season be prepared for massive crowds and hour-long waits for entry into the Grotto.

• Rachel's Tomb, the burial place of the matriarch Rachel, wife of Jacob and mother of Joseph and Benjamin is the second most important historical site in Bethlehem. (Genesis 35:19-20). Holy to all three faiths, the Tomb has been the site of several Arab terrorist attacks against Israeli civilians. As a result of the security situation, the Tomb's original structure has been sorrounded by an Israeli fortress, barricading it off from Bethlehem. While the original tomb can still be seen in its entirety from within the fortress, access to the tomb is now restricted to those travelling by Egged bus from Jerusalem.

• the Shepherds' Fields - "While shepherds watched their flocks by night..." - rival locations claim to be the site of the angel's visitation to the shepherds mentioned in the Gospels:
  • the Orthodox Shepherds' Fields
  • the Catholic Shepherds' Fields

• Minor sights include the Milk Grotto Chapel, where Mary supposedly spilled a few drops of breast milk while feeding Jesus, turning the cavern milky white.

• the Mosque of Omar is in active use, so no entry unless you're Muslim, but it is probably the prettiest building in the center.

• the Old Town is also good for a stroll if you haven't seen an Arab city before.

Do

Buy

While Bethlehem's souq is no match for Jerusalem's, it is much less touristy and the sellers are less aggressive.

In peaceful times, Bethlehem's traders do a roaring trade in souvenirs for pilgrims to the town.

Eat

Drink

Sleep

Get out

Bethlehem is a good base for visits to nearby Herodion, a fortress built by Herod the Great and located some 6 km to the south-east of the town. Herodium can be reached by sherut from Beit Sahour, while a taxi from Bethlehem costs about US$20 for a round trip.