For other places with the same name, see Berlin (disambiguation).

Brandenburg Gate and Pariser Platz

The Berliner Flag

Berlin [1] is the capital city of Germany and one of the 16 constituent states (Länder) of the Federal Republic of Germany. Berlin is the largest city in Germany and has a population of approximately 4.2 million within its metropolitan area (3.4 million people within the city limits). Berlin is best known for its historical associations as the German capital, for its lively nightlife, for its many cafes, clubs, and bars, and for its numerous museums, palaces, and other sites of historic interest. Berlin's architecture is quite varied: though badly damaged in the final years of World War II (in which Berlin formed the backdrop to Nazi Germany's downfall), Berlin has reconstructed itself greatly, and it is now possible to see representatives of many different historic periods in a short time within the compact city center, from a few surviving medieval buildings near Alexanderplatz, to the ultramodern glass and steel structures in Potsdamer Platz.

Districts

Since Berlin was a divided city for such a long time, there is not really one city center. Berlin has many districts or boroughs, called Bezirke, and each district has its unique style. Each Bezirk is composed of several Kieze - a Berlin term referring to "neighborhood", with their unique style. Some districts of Berlin are more worthy of the traveller's attention than others.

Districts of Berlin

Following are the districts of greatest interest:

• Mitte - the historical center of Berlin and the nucleus of the former East Berlin. Many cafes, restaurants, museums, galleries and clubs throughout the district, along with many sites of historic interest.
• Charlottenburg - heart of City West and centered around the Schloss Charlottenburg
• Schöneberg - cosy area for ageing hippies and young families. Famous are the markets on Saturdays, the street cafes (e.g. Akazienstrasse) and the laissez-faire life style.
• Kreuzberg - associated with the left wing youth culture and Turkish immigrants, this district is somewhat noisier than most
• Prenzlauer Berg - a trendy area undergoing gentrification, north of the city center. Popular with students, artists and media professionals, lots of cafes and bars
• Neukölln Working class borough in the south with big contrasts

Areas of interest that are not districts but known rather by name than by district

• Ku'Damm - the lively Kurfürstendamm district, the nucleus of West Berlin, has many shops (from Gucci to C&A), restaurants and just starts reviewing. The main interest points lay between U-Bahn stations Wittenbergplatz and Kurfürstendamm
• Potsdamer Platz - once divided in two by the Berlin Wall, this area has been newly developed since reunification in a modern style. It has a large shopping center and two movie theatre complexes (3D IMAX and a multiplex showing only original English versions of first-run films). On fine days, the piazza under the spectacular dome of the Sony Center (designed by Helmut Jahn), has become a mecca for both Berliners and tourists.

Berlin has been officially divided into 12 large districts (Bezirke) since January 2001, a simplification of the previous 23 smaller districts (Stadtteile, Bezirke) that was undertaken purely for administrative efficiency. The smaller districts remain foremost in popular conceptions of the city, however, and are generally of a more practical size and cultural division for the purposes of the traveller. New names are usually compounded from the old names (e.g. Charlottenburg and Wilmersdorf merged to Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf)

Understand

The foundation of Berlin was very multicultural. The surrounding area was populated by Germanic Swabian and Burgundian tribes, as well as Slavic Wends in prechristian times, and the Wends have stuck around. Their modern descendants are the Sorbian Slavic-language minority who live in villages near the Havel and Spree rivers.

In the beginning of the 13th century two towns (Berlin and Cölln) developed on each side of the river Spree. As the population grew, the towns merged and Berlin became a center for commerce and the region's agriculture.

Since the 1600s, when large numbers of French Huguenots fled religious persecution, Berlin has welcomed asylum seekers, religious, economic or otherwise. In the second half of the 20th century, large numbers of immigrants from Turkey and communist countries, including the former Yugoslavia and Vietnam, not to mention Soviet soldiers who refused to return home, have helped to make Berlin more multicultural than ever.

Berlin is also a youth-oriented city. Before German unification, West Berliners were exempt from the West German civil/military service requirement. Social activists, pacifists and anarchists of all stripes moved to Berlin for that reason alone. Musicians and artists were given state subsidies. It was easy to stay out all night thanks to liberal bar licensing laws, and staying at university for years without ever getting a degree was a great way to kill time. In constrast with most of Germany, Prenzlauer Berg is said to have the highest per-capita birth rate in Europe.

Berlin is a relatively young city by European standards, dating only to the thirteenth century, and it has always had a reputation as a place filled with people from elsewhere. Someone who has lived in Berlin for ten years will see themselves as a "true Berliner," looking down on the person who has only been there for five. It's sometimes tough to find someone born and raised here! This is part of Berlin's charm: it never gets stuck in a rut.

But it's not all beer bashes and café-sitting. One of the most important "products" produced in Berlin by both academic and company-sponsored institutes is research. That research is exported around the world just like tangible goods. German labor is highly efficient but comes at high cost. Strong trade unions, the end of West Berlin's pre-reunification subsidies and Germany's dense regulatory environment forced industry to cencentrate on high quality and expensive products. Students went on strike in Berlin to oppose tuition fees in recent years. The universities have grown to their limits and most schools do not get sufficient funding. Students, housewives and self-employed people are not included in Berlin's official unemployment rate, currently standing at a whopping 18 percent.

Some famous artists of the region and their best-known works include Lucas Cranach the Elder, Lucas Cranach the Younger, Johann Gottfried Schadow, Marlene Dietrich (The Blue Angel), Leni Riefenstahl (Triumph of the Will), Bertold Brecht (Threepenny Opera), Käthe Kollwitz, Kurt Tucholsky, Thomas and Heinrich Mann, Walter Gropius, Paul Klee, FW Murnau (Nosferatu), Fritz Lang (Metropolis), Volker Schlöndorff, Wim Wenders (Wings of Desire (German: Der Himmel über Berlin)), Blixa Bargeld/Einstürzende Neubauten, Christopher Isherwood, Gunter Grass (The Tin Drum), members of the Bauhaus architectural movement.

A certain uneasy detente still exists between some former residents of East and West Berlin (and Germany). Wessi evolved as a derogatory nickname for a West German; its corollary is Ossi. The implication here is that after reunification, the West Germans automatically assumed the way they do things is the right way, and the way the Easterners should start doing it, too. Westerners got a reputation for being arrogant. They saw the Easterners as stubborn Communist holdouts only interested in a handout from the "rich West". Consider a shirt for sale in a shop inside the Alexanderplatz Deutsche Bahn station: Gott, schütze mich vor Sturm und Wind/und Wessies die im Osten sind ("God, protect me from the storm and wind, and Wessies who are in the East").

Berlin, especially the former East, has evolved into a cultural mecca since the reunification. Artists and other creative souls flocked to the city in swarms after the wall fell, primarily due to the extremely low cost of living in the East. Despite the increased prices and gentrification as a result, Berlin has become a center for art, multimedia, electronic music, and fashion among other things. The particularly high number of students and young people in the city has only helped this cause. Just stroll down a street in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, or Mitte to get a glimpse of the new East Berlin.

Berlin is a beautiful city so allow enough time to get to see the sights. A good map, such as the Rough Guide Berlin map, is highly recommended. While the public transport system is superb, it can be confusing, due to a lack of signs in some of the larger stations, so a good rail map is also essential. Roads into Berlin can also be confusing, so plan your route and drive carefully. Signs point to city districts rather than indicating compass directions, so it's a good idea to get to know where the various districts lie in relation to each other. This also applies to cyclists.

Berlin's Tourist Information Office is an excellent resource for finding out more about Berlin, providing a wealth of practical information and useful links.

Get in

As the city was divided into two during the Cold War, many major parts of Berlin's infrastructure — such as airports — were built on both the east and west side. After the demolition of the Wall the challenge has been to merge these formerly independent systems into one that serves all people in the metropolitan Berlin area.

By air

Berlin has three airports [2]:

• Tegel International Airport (ICAO: EDDT, IATA: TXL) - located in the north-west of the city; the main airport for the flagcarriers (Lufthansa, BA, Air France, KLM, Delta etc) and hub for domestic flights as well as those from western Europe and the USA. Buses from Tegel operate to S+U Alexanderplatz (bus TXL) and S+U Zoologischer Garten (buses X9 and 109) for the standard ticket fare.

• Schönefeld (ICAO: EDDB, IATA: SXF) - southeast of the city centre; increasingly the focus for low-cost airlines (e.g. Ryanair, Easyjet and GermanWings) and charter flights in addition to traffic from Asia and eastern Europe. The airport is served by the S-Bahn: the line S9 will take you conveniently to (and through) the city centre via such major stations as U Ostbahnhof, S+U Alexanderplatz, S Hauptbahnhof and S+U Zoologischer Garten.

• Tempelhof (ICAO: EDDI, IATA: THF) - a small relic of the pre-war era due for closure in March 2007, Tempelhof is located immediately south of the city centre but has only a small number of connections serviced mainly by domestic and european flights (Eurowings, DBA, Windrose Air, SN Brussels and numerous minor business carriers).

Construction of the new Airport Berlin Brandenburg International[3] has started at Schönefeld and the new airport is scheduled for opening in 2011. After this, all air traffic in the Berlin-Brandenburg region will be bundled at BBI, and other airports in the region closed down.

Various airlines, such as Lufthansa, British Airways and Air France have direct flight connections between Berlin and major German and European cities. Lufthansa, the German flag carrier airline, has several own counters in Tegel. It can be difficult to find a direct flight to Berlin from outside of Europe. Most airlines will fly to their major hub airports such as Frankfurt and Munich and offer connecting (or code-share) flights to Berlin.

Since end of 2005 Delta and Continental Airlines have established daily direct flights from New York (JFK and Newark).

By bus

As with all major cities, many bus companies offer connections to Berlin, both national and international, from over 350 destinations in Europe. Long distance buses arrive at Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (Central Bus Terminal) in Charlottenburg.

By train

Berlin is served by IC, ICE, EuroCity and InterRegio trains. The German train corporation Deutsche Bahn [4] (DB) offers ICE connections between Berlin and other major German cities. If you arrive in Berlin on a national (non-regional) DB trip, you are entitled to use your ticket to travel by S-Bahn (local commuter trains), but not U-Bahn (the city's underground system), to your destination as the S-Bahn is operated by the DB.

Several night trains from/to Amsterdam, Paris, Zurich and Vienna travel every day. They are popular with backpackers so reservations are recommended. Long-haul trains to Eastern European cities (Warsaw, Kaliningrad and Moscow) mostly use the Bahnhof Lichtenberg in Eastern Berlin. Make sure you have a reservation because these lines are also very popular.

The new Hauptbahnhof

Stations

During the times of its division, Berlin had two main train stations: Zoologischer Garten (Bahnhof Zoo for short) in the West, and Hauptbahnhof in the East. After the fall of the wall the former Hauptbahnhof has been renamed Ostbahnhof.

From 28 May 2006 onwards Berlin has a new train station concept for national and international train connections. The brand new (the building, not the station) Hauptbahnhof (central station), the Südkreuz (southern cross) and the Ostbahnhof (eastern station) -plus minor Gesundbrunnen in the north and Spandau in the north west- are the backbone of all connections. All are connected to either S- or U-Bahn (planned is both). All trains travel through central station and a second major hub (depending on the destination you travel to or arrive from). Trains in the regional area (Berlin and Brandenburg) mostly use these stations. Regional trains stop at several stations within Berlin.

By car

All main roads and motorways join the Berliner Ring, or the A10, from which you can access the inner city. The city motorway is usually very crowded during rush hour.

Get around

Berlin's city centers (in East and West) are compact and most of the major sights and venues can be accessed easily enough on foot. Even so, a traveller can make use of the excellent bus, tram, train and underground services to get around. Taxi services are also easy to use and less expensive than in most European cities. You can hail a cab (the yellow light on the top shows the cab is free), or find a taxi rank (Taxistand). Be sure you get the driver's attention before you get in at a taxi stand, he or she may be asleep. Taxi drivers are in general able to speak English.

Check the Berlin route planner [5] (in English) to get excellent maps and schedules for the U-Bahn, Buses, S-Bahn and Trams, or to print your personal journey planner. The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) have a detailed fare list on their web site [6].

Berlin WelcomeCard

A standard ticket is valid on all the different types of transportation with unlimited changes. Berlin uses a zone system, but you are unlikely to need to go beyond zone A & B, except on trips to Potsdam. This is a very large area, even including Schönefeld airport. If you're going to be traveling a lot by public transport, consider getting a Tageskarte day card (€5.80 for zone A & B) or the Berlin WelcomeCard [7], which gets you unlimited travel in zones A, B and C for €16/22 for 2/3 days plus discounts at many of Berlin's tourist attractions. Weekly passes for all kind of public transport valid inside zone A and B are available for €25,40. (Most of the interesting places reported here are in the A zone, some in the B zone and only Potsdam is in the C zone)

There are vending machines selling all ticket types on the platforms at every station of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn. They offer instructions in many languages including English, but if you need assistance most larger stations have staffed ticket counters where you can ask questions and buy tickets. Before you get on the train you need to validate your ticket using the yellow machines on the platform (or in the bus). You will most likely need to pay a €60 fine if you are caught with an unvalidated ticket.

If you don't know how to get somewhere, or how to get home at night call 030 (for Berlin) 19449, the 24 hour Customer Service of the BVG. There are also facilities in most U-Bahn stations to contact the Customer Service directly. In 2005 the BVG introduced Metro lines (buses and tram) that will run from June 2006 onwards 24 hours a day, seven days a week. All lines are marked with a big orange plate and a white M.

In some places like Zoologischer Garten and Eberswalderstrasse people will try to sell used tickets to you. It is not legal, but generally safe to use (check the validation stamp and be careful as this could also be a pickpocket trick) and widely accepted. Don't pay more than half the price. You might as well want to give your used tickets as a present to those who are going to buy them from the machine instead of encouraging illegal transactions.

It's also worth noting that the house numbers do not necessarily run in one direction (up or down). On a lot of streets, the numbers ascend on one side and descend on the other. Especially on long streets check the numbering scheme first: you can find the name of the street and the numbers on that block at nearly every street corner.

By train

U-Bahn route map

The Berlin U-Bahn (subway/metro) is something to behold; it is so charmingly precise! There are no turnstiles to limit access, so it is technically possible to ride without a ticket, but this can lead to a fine of more than €80. (Most residents claim to see ticket checkers once a month; if you're determined to scam, the morning papers print the lines with controllers for the day - but this is not really helpful as a lot of "undercover" patrols check other lines as well.) All U-bahn stations now have electronic signs that give the time of the next train, and its direction based on sensors along the lines.

Detailed maps can be found in every U-bahn station on the trains. Don't be confused by the alternative tram maps. U-Bahn stations can be seen from far by their big, friendly blue U signs. Together with the S-Bahn (which is administered by Deutsche Bahn and mostly runs aboveground), the U-Bahn provides a transportation network throughout greater Berlin that is extremely efficient and fast. On weekend, as well as during the Christmas and New Year holidays, all U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines (except line U4) run all night, so returning from late night outings is easy, especially given the average start time of most 'parties' in Berlin (10-11 p.m.). Some U- and S-Bahn lines now run 24 hours seven days a week to give the party people a convenient way home. Please check with staff which lines it will be, because the concept has just started.

For a single journey you can buy a cheap Kurzstrecke for €1.20, but this is only for travelling 3 stops. For a longer single journey you must pay €2.10, which valid for anywhere in zone A & B for two hours after validating.

By tram

The trams are mostly in East Berlin, as in the West the tram lines were removed to facilitate more vehicular traffic. If you don't have a ticket already, you can buy one inside the tram.

Two types of tram service are available. Metrotrams are similar to what English-speakers call Light Rail, with stops spaced farther apart than on local access routes, and with traffic priority measures. Tram routes not so identified stop more frequently and may even include picturesque single-track rides through forested areas far east of the Mitte Bezirk (borough).

Perhaps the most picturesque line in the city, known to transit system officials as "the most beloved tram line in Germany" due to its customers' passionate opposition to reducing service, is Line 68. In off-seasons it has more scenery than people, but when hot weather comes its lakeshore meanderings and the tiny, gemütlich village of Alt-Schmöckwitz at the line's outer terminal draw so many customers that extra trams are pressed into service. Line 68 may be best accessed at the Berlin-Grünau S-Bahn station, where all types of convenience food and shopping are available.

Beyond the village center and tram terminal, a large forested area of lakefront parkland offers hiking and bicycling possibilities. This was once the home neighborhood for expatriate American, international music and film star Dean Reed. The Line 68 tram itself had one brief moment of glory, in 1936. In its former incarnation as Line 86 it was the best route to the Olympic rowing events and some structures, street names, etc. still reflect that high point.

By bus

Buses are the easiest way to see the city.

The most famous bus line is 100, which leaves from Zoo Station ("Berlin Zoologischer Garten") or U-Bahn station Alexanderplatz, and crosses most of historic Berlin, including many of the sites listed here. For the price of a city bus ticket or daily pass it's possible to see much of the city from one of these double-decker tour buses. Sit up top as it's easier to see the Reichstag, as well as the many historic buildings on Unter den Linden. If you're lucky, you'll get the legendary bus-driver who delivers a commentary (in Berlin-accented German) on the trip. New bus line 200 takes nearly the same route, but through Potsdamer Platz. Either ride is a must do on any trip to Berlin.

By cycle

Bicycle is another great way to tour Berlin. Berlin offers many bicycle paths (Radwege) throughout the city (although not all are very smooth), and has very few steep hills. Bicycles are a very popular method of transportation among Berlin residents, and there is almost always a certain level of bicycle traffic. Bicycle rentals are available in the city, although the prices vary (usually from €7.50 per day). In addition, the Deutsche Bahn (DB) placed many public bicycles [8] throughout the city in 2003. These can be unlocked by calling a number on the bicycle with a cellphone (called a "handy" in German). Seeing Berlin by bicycle is unquestionably a great way, that will acquaint the traveler with the big tourist sites, and the little Sprees and side streets as well. Although it's good to carry your own map, you can also always check your location at any U-Bahn station and many Bus Stations. Individual arranged cycling maps you can create online, optimized by less busy routes or fewer traffic lights or your favorite paving [9].

See

Museums

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Berlin has a vast array of museums. Most museums and galleries charge admission - usually around €6 for an adult, discounts available (students are required to have a card with photo from their university). However, some of the state run museums, including some of the ones below, are free on the first Sunday of each month, but ask before as this is not a general rule. Some museums also grant free entrance four hours before closing every Thursday.

Lange Nacht der Museen – a large cultural event in August with museums open until 2 a.m. and extra events around the city. For details refer to the website[10] or call the InfoLine 90 26 99 444

• Museuminsel. Literally "Museum Island", this district is best known for the vast Pergamonmuseum, which houses an extensive collection of ancient Greek, ancient Middle-Eastern and Islamic art and architecture. See Berlin/Mitte for more details. As of August 2006, the monumental market door of Milet is under restauration
• Alte Nationalgalerie, Bodestraße 1-3, tel. 2090 5577, [11]. Art up to the 19th century with some masterpieces by Adolph von Menzel, Edouard Manet, Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir, Edgar Degas, Paul Cézanne.
• Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, tel. 20 30 40, [12]. German historical museum.
• Jüdisches Museum, Lindenstraße 9-14, tel. +39 30 25993 300, [13]. 10AM-8PM. Jewish Museum. Learn about the history of jews in Berlin. Exhibitions of art and impressive modern architecture.
• Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, [14]. A recently opened abstract artwork covering an entire block near the Brandenburg Gate, including an underground museum with extensive details on the Holocaust and the Jews who died during it. 3.5 million visitors in the first year make it one of the most visited memorials in Berlin.
• Brücke-Museum, Bussardsteig 9, tel. 831 2029, [15]. Works from the Dresden art collaborative called "Die Brücke".
• Gemäldegalerie, Matthäikirchplatz, tel. 266 2951, [16]. About 2700 European paintings from the 13th to the 18th century. Works from Dürer, Raffael, Tizian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt and Rubens.
• Neue Nationalgalerie, Potsdamer Straße 50, tel. 266 2951, [17]. Art from the 20th Century; hosts very interesting temporary exibitions. As of August 2006 the permanent collection is temporarily elsewhere
• Hamburger Bahnhof, Invalidenstraße 50-51, tel. 3978 3439, [18]. Modern Art in a very nice building. Currently also included is the Christian Flick collection.
• Museum für Verkehr und Technik, Trebbiner Straße 9, [19]. Interesting museum for science and technology with many interesting objects. The Museum für Verkehr und Technik also has an outdoor area with a windmill.
• Museum für Naturkunde, [20]. Interesting museum with a big collection of fossils and minerals.
• Museum für Post und Kommunikation, [21]. Museum for telecommunication and post with many interesting historical objects.
• Berlinische Galerie, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, [22]. Collection of modern artists nicely organized and well selected, you cannot miss it if you like or are courious about modern art. Note the "Happy Monday" fare: on the first Monday of the month there's a discounted daily ticket for only €2,00.
• Museum Berggruen, Schlossstraße 1, [23]. Also known as "Picasso und sein Zeit", this not so large but precious museum hosts a very good collection of paintings and sculptures signed by Picasso, Klee, Matisse, Giacometti, and others from the first decades of the XX century. The ticket is also valid on the same day at the "Museum fuer Fotografie" (aka Helmuth Newton Stiftung), Aegyptische Museum, Museum fuer Vor- und Fruehgeschicte (Pre- and Protohistory museum).
• Museum fuer Fotografie, Jebenstrasse 2 (just out the Zoologischer Garten Bahnhof), [24]. This museum is dedicated to Helmut Newton ans usually hosts his works in a temporary exibition.
• Deutsche Guggenheim, Unter den Linden 13-15 (U6 Franzoische Strasse), tel. 030 20 20 93, [25]. Compared to New York, Bilbao and Venezia it is a relatively small exhibition place. It usually hosts a temporary exibition and is free on ;onday, with a free guided tour starting at 18:00. Since the place is small and the name "Guggenheim" a very famous one, the place is often very crowded.

Private art galleries

As Berlin is a city of art it is quite easy to find an art gallery on your way. They provide a nice opportunity to have a look at modern artists' work in a not so crowded environment, for free. Moreover, most of the times, these private art galleries are set in very beatiful places.

• Art Center Berlin Friedrichstraße, Friedrichstraße 134, tel. 030 27 87 90 20, [26]. Four floors of exibitions with a relatively good variety of genres and artists. A very nice oasis of calm from the busy Friedrichstrasse.

Churches

• Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche Highly symbolic church, dating back to 1891-95, with two completely new buildings aside the ruins of the World War II. In the square you should easily find crews of punks, people playing percussions and tourist enjoing these shows.

• Marienkirche Located near Alexanderplatz, this is not only the highest church tower in Berlin (90 m), but also one of the oldest churches left in the (once) historical center of berlin. Entrance is free and inside the church are many treasures from the old days.

• Nikolaikirche The oldest church in Berlin, dating back to the beginning of 13th century (at least the stones next to the ground...). Changing exhibitions inside, entrance free.

• St. Hedwigs Kathedrale Domed Church located at Bebelplatz/Unter den Linden, the oldest (mid 18th century) and one of the biggest catholic churches in Berlin, interior was redesigned in a modern style in the 1950s - but still many treasure chambers in the basement.

• Berliner Dom Easily the biggest and most impressive church, built at the turn of the century (19th/20th) as an expression of imperial power. Located next to the museum island. Entrance normally 5 Euro.

• Friedrichswerdersche Kirche Nice church located near Unter den Linden/Museum Island, finished 1830 by Schinkel - english neogothic style. Nice Exhibition inside (neoclassical statues and an exhibition about Schinkel's life and work upstairs), entrance free!

Landmarks with observation decks

Glass dome of the Reichstag

While Berlin has relatively few high-rise buildings, there are several monuments with observation decks. Of special interest is the Fernsehturm, the tallest tower in Germany and second largest in Europe, which has a rotating café at the top spinning 360 degrees in just 30 minutes! 40 seconds is all it takes to reach the top by lift. Another, the Funkturm, is an old lattice steel tower which is the only observation tower standing on insulators. Another famous landmark with observation deck is the victory column (Siegessäule). The Siegessäule is a historic momument and therefore it has no elevator but the beautiful view on the Tiergarten and the historic center is worth climbing up.

Siegessäule

• Reichstag - the German parliament near the Brandenburg gate building has a large glass construction on top with a great view of Berlin. Be prepared for long lines and an extensive security check.
• Berliner Funkturm - 150 meter high lattice tower, with open-air observation deck 124 meter above ground. Only observation tower on insulators! Located in the Western fair district, out of city center.
• Berliner Fernsehturm on the Alexanderplatz - Germany's tallest construction, 368 meters high. Observation deck 204 metres above ground.
• Park Inn Alexanderplatz - the tallest multistory building in Berlin at 132 meters. There is a panorama restaurant in the upmost floor.

• Siegessäule (Victory Column) - An old (1865-1873), 60 meters high monument with panoramic view in the very center of the city. Unfortunately no elevator so be prepared for 285 steps. The statue of Victoria on the top is the place where the angels congregate in the famous film "Der Himmel über Berlin" by Wim Wenders. It has also become something of a symbol for the annual Love Parade techno music festival.

• Grunewaldturm - historic observation tower
• Glockenturm Olympic stadium
• Bierpinsel - a small tower restaurant in Berlin-Steglitz
• Müggelturm - an observation tower without elevator in Southeast Berlin, from which you can see that there is a great deal of forest around Berlin

History

Berlin does not attempt to hide the less savoury parts of its history: a visit to the Topography of Terror (Mitte), for example, provides interesting but sobering insights into the activities of the Gestapo in Berlin during the Nazi years (1933-1945). Many of the walking tours also discuss scenes both of Nazi activity and Cold War tension and terror.

• Berlin Wall A large stretch of intact Wall can be found to the east of the city centre along the River Spree in Mühlenstraße near the Oberbaumbrücke. Known as the East Side Gallery, it is a section of the wall that is preserved as a gallery. This can be easily reached from Ostbanhof or Warschauer Strasse. It has many beautiful murals, politically motivated and otherwise. Another place to try is near the Martin Gropius Bau museum, currently under reconstruction. Two small pices are also in Potsamer Plaz and in its neighbourhood at the corner between Eberrtstraße and Bellevuestraße).

• Berlin Wall Memorial (Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer). (U-Bahn Bernauerstrasse U8 or S-Bahn Nordbahnhof S1, 2, or 25, follow the signs in the stations - wall is Mauer in German). Often missed by tourists but an absolute must for anyone interested in this part of the city's history. It's a memorial to those who died crossing so you won't, fortunately, get the tackiness of the Checkpoint Charlie area; instead you will be left with a haunting feeling of what life with the wall may have been really like. The monument itself is a gigantic wasted opportunity, blank and featureless. The inscription on the outside, declaring it a monument to the victims of the "communist reign of violence", has sparked emotional debates and angered many local residents. The documentation center across the street on Bernauer Str. is excellent although most of the documentation is in German. The viewing platform gives you a tiny hint of the true scale of the Wall and how terrifying the "no man's land" between the two sections of walls must have been.

The Memorial is on Bernauer Strasse which itself is a street with a great deal of Wall history: the first recorded Wall related death of the notorious Peter Fechter was here, as was one of the famous tunnels and that famous photograph of the GDR border guard leaping over the barbed wire. Various monuments can be found along the entire length of the street, documenting nearby escape attempts and tunnels; captions are in German, English, French, and Russian. The Memorial itself is a complete section of 4th generation wall - both inside and outside sections, and you can peer through from the east side to see the remains of the electric fence and anti-tank devices in the death strip. It really helps you understand what an incredible feat it was to get from one side to the other -- and why so many died doing it.

Checkpoint Charlie 1982 [Photo: Rolf Palmberg]

• Checkpoint Charlie. Checkpoint Charlie, a crossing point between East and West Germany during the Cold War, is no more. Formerly, it was the only border crossing between East and West Germany that permitted foreigners passage. Residents of East and West Berlin were not allowed to use it. This contributed to Checkpoint Charlie's mythological status as a meeting place for spies and other shady individuals. Now the remains of the Berlin Wall have been moved to permit building, including construction of the American Business Center and other institutions not given to flights of John Le Carré-inspired fancy.

At the intersection of Zimmerstrasse and Friedrichstrasse is the famous "You Are Leaving the American Sector" sign. The actual guardhouse from Checkpoint Charlie is now housed at the Allied Museum on Clayallee. For a more interesting exhibit go to the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. This is a private museum with kitschy memorabilia from the Wall as well as the devices GDR residents used to escape the East (including a tiny submarine!).

Checkpoint Charlie gained its name from the phonetic alphabet; checkpoints "Alpha" and "Bravo" were at the autobahn checkpoints Helmstedt and Dreilinden respectively. Checkpoint Charlie's atmosphere was not improved at all on 27 October 1961 when the two Cold War superpowers chose to face each other down for a day. Soviet and American tanks stood approximately 200 meters apart, making an already tense situation worse.

• Hugenottenmuseum, in Französischer Dom, Platz der Akademie. The Hugenottenmuseum represents the ongoing influence on Berlin by the Huguenots who emigrated from France after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Crown Prince Friedrich William encouraged them to settle here because most of them were skilled workers or otherwise useful to the kingdom. One memorable artwork, in room nine of the museum, pictures Crown Princess Dorothea exclaiming "But he's a refugee!" upon being presented a very valuable set of jewels by Pierre Fromery. The generally agreed-upon view of refugees as poor, without resources let alone diamonds, was blown apart by the talented French Protestants forced to leave their country due to religion.

One of the most notable effects of having such a large French population was their influence on the infamous Berlin dialect. Berlinerisch words such as Kinkerlitzchen (from French "quincaillerie" - kitchen equipment) and Muckefuck (from French "mocca faux" - artificial coffee) are unique to the area.

The Französischen Dom (cathedral) itself was built to resemble the main church of the Huguenots in Charenton, France, destroyed in 1688. It has housed the museum since 1929.

• Käthe Kollwitz Museum. Käthe Kollwitz's reputation as a social activist who used art as a means to express her support of pacifism was hard-won. Her son was killed in the first World War, after which her art took a turn for the morose. When her grandson was killed in World War II, her art became even darker and more brooding as she contemplated the huge loss of life Germany had suffered. Both her own personal losses and those of the nation affected her art. After the war ever-present artistic themes for Kollwitz - death, violence, war, misery, guilt and suffering - took shape as the drawings, prints, sculptures, original posters and woodcuts housed in this museum.

• Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium). Built by Hitler for the 1936 Olympic Games, the Olympic Stadium is already crumbling! (So much for 1000-Year-Reich architecture lasting that long). It is one of the better examples of Nazi-era neoclassical architecture and is still used for sporting events. It is the home of the most successful soccer/football team of Berlin, Hertha BSC, and between 2000 and 2004 was renovated for the FIFA World Cup in 2006. A visit to a Bundesliga football match can be safely recommended, as football is a main ingredient of German public life (matches start Saturday 3:30PM or Sunday 5:00PM; be there at least half an hour earlier). The Olympic Stadium is where African-American athlete Jesse Owens won four gold medals and disproving Hitler's Aryan superiority theory.

The neoclassical architecture is supposed to remind the viewer of the splendors of Greece or Rome and of the universally-acclaimed great civilizations; it was thus intended as another part of Nazi propaganda. By reusing time-tested architectural components, such as columns, instead of pushing forward with a genuinely modern twentieth-century, entirely new architectural concept, did they think their designs would garner more positive attention? To the west of the Stadium itself is the Maifeld with the Langemarck hall and the Olympic Stadium Bell Tower, Glockenturm [27], (with observation deck), both of which can be visited.

For a glimpse at the Olympiastadion in its original state, rent Leni Riefenstahl's movie Olympia. Riefenstahl has been accused of purposefully producing propaganda for the Nazis, though in her autobiography she denies it. There is no argument, however, that she is an excellent filmmaker. Though the Nazis may have helped fund some of her productions, Riefenstahl's artistic vision is undeniable.

• Tempelhof airport was used in the Berlin Airlift (Berliner Luftbrücke) in 1948 and 1949, and featured in movies like Billy Wilders "One Two Three" with James Cagney, Horst Buchholz and Lilo Pulver. The terminal building is still fascinating: the halls and neighbouring buildings, intended to become the gateway to Europe, are still known as the largest built entities worldwide, and have been described by British architect Sir Norman Foster as "the mother of all airports".

Zoo

Berlin has two Zoos and one Aquarium. The Berlin Zoo in the City West is the historic Zoo that has been a listed company since its foundation. It's an oasis in the city and very popular with families and schools.

• The Berlin Zoo is the zoo with the largest range of species in the world. It lies directly in the heart of the City West (opposite Bahnhof Zoo at Hardenbergplatz) and is especially famous for its Panda bears. The Elephant Gate (Budapester Straße) is the second entrance next to the Aquarium and a traditional photo stop for most visitors because of the architecture.
• The Tierpark Berlin is located in Friedrichsfelde and is spacier than the historic Berlin Zoo but has only 50 years of existence.
• The Aquarium is part of the Berlin Zoo and is located at Budapester Straße in an historic building. Still the biggest Aquarium in Germany and hosts an amazing variety of fishes, crocodiles etc. One of the best places on a rainy day with children.

Do

Explore

• Go on a Walking Tour of Berlin - the Mitte and surrounding districts are sufficiently compact to allow a number of excellent walking tours through its history-filled streets. You'll see amazing things you would otherwise miss. Details are usually available from the reception desks of hostels and hotels. Some options include:

• Insider Tours, [28]. English language walking tours with no reservation required. Simply show up at the pre-designated time and place. Choose the tour that interests you most. The classic 'Insider Tour' and 'Red Star' tours are both excellent. They also have a good Pub Crawl, where you get to see the coolest pubs in Berlin!
• New Berlin Tours, [29]. Runs on a tips-only basis. English and Spanish tours starting at 11am and 1pm and 4pm some of the year outside Starbucks at the Brandenburg Gate. Entertaining and performed by young people living in Berlin and interested in its history.
• The Original Berlin Walks, [30]
• Brewer's Best Of Berlin Walking Tours, [31]
• Humboldt Tours Berlin, [32]. High quality tours. All guides are local PhD and graduate students in German history or American Fulbright exchange students. Comprehensive and entertaining general tours as well as various more detailed tours such as Architecture, Jewish History, bike tours and a Wild East Pub Crawl.

• If you prefer a private tour, there are several possibilities, such as:

• Berlin Tour Guide, [33]. In Hebrew and English.
• Berlin Trails, [34]. Offers several unusual guided tours ending in a beer tasting at a typical, authentic German brewery or pub. Sights include the hidden Bunkers of Berlin, the Stasi prison and city sightseeing tour although individual tours are also available.

• Jewish Tours

• Milk & Honey Tours, [35]. This Jewish-owned and run tour company works with 16 guides, specialists of Jewish History, and provides individuals and groups with high quality tours of "Jewish Berlin".

• Berlin is also great for cycling due to its many bike paths and flat geography.

• New Berlin Free Bike Tour, [36]
• Fat Tire Bike Tours, [37]. Non-strenuous and entertaining city bike tours of Berlin. Tours start daily at the TV Tower at Alexanderplatz at 11am (and 4pm in summer months) and stop every couple hundred meters to discuss the sights as well as at a traditional beer garden in the park.
• Berlin On Bike, [38]. Offers "Berlin's Best" and "Berlin Wall Tours" on alternating days. Tours are 4 hours long and start at the Kulturbrauerei at 3pm.

Recreation

Pick up a copy of Exberliner [39], the monthly English-language paper for Berlin to find out what's on, when and where. It provides high quality journalism and up-to-date listings. If you understand German, the activity planners for the city, zitty [40] and tip [41], are available at every kiosk. Be prepared to choose among a huge amount of options.

• Parks

Berlin has many great parks which are very popular in the summer. Green Berlin [42] operates the biggest three public parks:

• Tiergarten is Berlin's largest park and hosts the Love Parade in July. In the summer and on weekends you will see loads of families with their barbeques.
• Britzer Garten, the 1984 national floral show garden with an amazing variety of plants. Playgrounds for children, small beach on the lake, very popular with families and seniors on weekends.
• Viktoriapark offers superb panoramic views across south Berlin.
• Volkspark Mariendorf is favoured by young people and students and boasts an open-air cinema.
• Charlottenburg is inside the area of the Castle of Charlottenburg [43], but the green area of the park is free, so you can go there to have a walk even if you are not interested in the Castle. It covers a really large area and you can get in from the entrace just near the "New Pavillon" (Neuer Pavillon a.k.a. Schinkelpavillon) placed on the right of Luisenplatz. The nearest station is Sophie-Charlotte Platz on the U2.
• World's Garden (Gärten der Welt) in Marzahn. Inside you can find a quite large and well established Chinese garden, a Korean garden, a small Bali's Garden/Glasshouse, an Oriental Garden with nice fountains and a cloister and a Japanese garden which is a project by the city partnership of Berlin and Tokyo. The latter has been built by Zen priests. Guided tours on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays every 30 min from 10:30 until 12:30. The park is open from 1st April until 29th October. Although quite crowded at times, there are not that many tourists so here's a chance to brush your German skills. Entrance is 2 €. As the journey to this park will be around an hour from the city centre, don't miss this opportunity to complete your picture of Berlin by seeing some of Berlin's clean and quiet suburbs. Eisenacher Strasse, 99 - Berlin-Marzahn - S7 Marzhan (Zone B) + Bus 195 (before the departure ask to the driver for the right stop). Notice that another Eisenacher Strasse exists in Schöneberg, so don't be mislead by the U7 Station Eisenacher Strasse.

• Lakes, Beaches

• Wannsee is called Berlin's "bath tub". The Strandbad Wannsee is the most famous bathing area with locals. Take the S-Bahn lines S1 or S7 to the station Nikolassee and follow the crowd!
• Sunbathing on the banks of the Havel and Spree Rivers is popular
• Müggelsee in the south east of Berlin is a popular swimming spot

• Boat trips

• Stern und Kreisschiffahrt [44] is by far the biggest boat company in Berlin. They offer tours on most lakes.

Festivals

• The Berlin Film Festival / Berlinale [45]. The city's largest cultural event and an important fixture in the global film industry's calendar (up there with Cannes and Venice). 150,000 tickets sold, 500 films screened and a host of associated parties and events every year. In contrast to e.g. Cannes, most screenings at the Berlinale are open to the public. Tickets are inexpensive and relatively easy to get for the "International Forum of Young Film" screenings and the "Berlinale Panorama" (movies which are not in the competition).

• In August (check the exact dates) you can find the nice Oberbaumbrücke Festival near the East Side Gallery, just under the Oberbaumbrücke. Artists are selling their works, amateur tango dancers are giving public performances and you can contribute to a collaborative painting on a very long canvas spread on the street along the festival.

Parades

• Loveparade [46] - This massive techno parade takes place every summer. It is back on 15 July 2006 after a two year hiatus and opens at 12PM (Noon) with an underground talent show at Siegessäule. The actual parade will begin at the "Grossen Stern" (surrounding streets of the Siegessäule) on the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) at 2 PM and will return to the Brandenburg Tor at 6 PM. Post-parade events will wrap up around 11 PM.

Some notes about the Love Parade:

• The trucks with the DJs move down the Strasse des 17. Juni. This means that if you like the DJ, you should move and dance along with the truck.
• If you make it down to the Brandenburger Tor, be attentive. Trucks and people are all on the same road and very few are sober, so there is a risk of getting injured in the crowd. Emergency crews are in place but better stay out of the mass because only limited access control.
• Not as many fun or freaky costumes as in the early years, quite a few bad dressers.
• 90% of participants are German

• Fuck/Hate Parade The Fuckparade is at the same time as the Loveparade but with a big difference: the Fuckparade is political. The general motto of the Fuckparade is "against the destruction of the club scene". The other difference is the music played: underground club, goa, gabber, gothic, speedcore, terror ...

• Hanf Parade End of August. The Hanfparade is the biggest European political demonstration for the legalization of hemp for use in agriculture and as a stimulant.

• Christopher Street Day - as the Germans name their gay prides - is a well-known annual political demonstration for the rights of the gay culture organized in all major German cities. Even if you are indifferent about the issue, the Christopher Street Day is usually a worthwhile sight as many participants show up in wild costumes.

• Fête de la Musique [47] In June. Everywhere in Berlin there is different music on this day, which co-ordinates with a similar day in several French cities.

• Karneval der Kulturen [48] In May or June (usually at Whit Sunday). The idea of the "Carnival of Cultures" is a parade of the various ethnic groups of the city showing traditional music, costumes and dances. Other more modern, alternative and political groups also participate. Similar events are also held in Hamburg and Frankfurt.

Theatre, Opera, Concerts, Cinema

Berlin has a lot of theater houses, cinemas, concerts and other cultural events going on all the time.

Theater

• Deutsches Theater. Classical theater with impressive line up of actors and directors.
• Volksbühne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz. Sometimes controversial, modern theater.
• Schaubühne am Leniner Platz, [49]. Modern theater.
• Schillertheater. Former theater now stage for stand-up comedians or musicals.
• Theater am Kurfürstendamm, [50]. Popular theater with tv celebrities in modern plays.
• Theater des Westens, [51]. A historic theater tn the former West Berlin, only musicals today.
• Grips Theather, [52]. Famous children theater with a light political touch, European recognition for the musical Linie 1.
• Friedrichstadtpalast, [53]. Cabaret shows and revues with actresses from the former East German ballet.
• Kabaret Theater Distel, [54]. Cabaret and comedy, political satire in German.
• Maxim Gorki Theater, [55]. Sometimes plays the 3 Pennys Opera by Brecht.
• Berliner Esemble, [56]. Contemporary theater.

Opera

• Komische Oper, [57]. Modern operas.
• Deutsche Oper, [58]. Classic opera house of West Berlin.
• Staatsoper Unter den Linden, [59]. The impressive building and royal history make the building alone worth a visit.
• Neuköllner Oper, [60]. Voted several times best off-opera house and known for its modern and contemporary pieces. Most in German as usually relating to developments in Germany. Very creative and innovative.

Cinema

• Movimiento. Independent movies, some in English.
• Cinemaxx. Have English program.
• Cinestar, [61]. The "Cinestar Original" Cinema located inside the Sony Center at the Potsdamerplatz shows only movies in English.

It should be noted that all movies which need translation to German are released later in Germany.

Concert Houses

• Philharmonie, [62]. Berlin Philharmonic orchestra is one of the best in the world. Famous building and outstanding musicians make a reservation essential. Cheaper tickets usually available 2-4 hours before the concert if not sold out.
• Konzerthaus

Sport

In Berlin you can do virtually all sorts of sports

• The most popular sport is soccer, which is played all over the city. The Berlin FA lists all the clubs. Not to be missed is the Olympic Stadium, which hosted the 2006 world cup final. Hertha Berlin, Berlin´s highest professional football team, plays there during the bundesliga season in the winter.
• Public swimming pools can be found around the city. Check out BBB for pool listings and opening times.
• Sailing on one of the many lakes is also popular. You can find sailing clubs and most universities have ships as well.
• Golf is popular as well: at U-Bahnstation Gleisdreieck, for instance, there is a driving range with an amazing view on Potsdamer Platz. You can find golf clubs all around Berlin, although for non-members Motzen has one of the best.

Spa

Spas are very trendy.

• Day Spa, [63]. In Riverside hotel next to the Friedrichstadtpalast.
• Club Olympus Spa. In Grand Hyatt Hotel at Potsdamer Platz.

Learn

Berlin has three major universities:

• Freie Universität, [64]. Founded after World War II in West Berlin and today the city's largest university by number of students, the Freie Universität has an impressive range of faculties and outstanding professors.
• Humboldt Universität, [65]. The oldest university in Berlin with an impressive record of alumni and professors – Albert Einstein, G.W.F. Hegel, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, to name but a few. During the Cold War it was the main university in East Berlin and after reunification there have been efforts to reinstate its former glory.
• Technische Universität, [66]. Technical university founded in West Berlin after World War II with a good reputation for its research.

There are several smaller universities and colleges in Berlin but the current restruction of the university makes it difficult to give an overview. The responsible senator of the City of Berlin has a good overview page.[67]

For children, technical interested people and on rainy days the Deutsches Technikmuseum Berlin [68] is worth a day visit with almost indefinite possiblities to explore the industrial and mechanical explorations of the last 150 years. Original steam trains, planes and oldtimer cars. Furthermore, there's a splendid science centre in the nearby SPECTRUM [69] where you can spend hours on end with more than 250 hands-on experiments on the fundamental laws of science that govern the world.

Work

The current economic climate is getting better but work is still not easy to find in Berlin. If you don't have a sound level of German it's unlikely that you will find work easily. Any kind of skills (especially languages) that separates you from the mass will defintely improve your chances for a job.

If you are an EU citizen, a student or have a work permit you may be able to scrape by teaching English (Spanish, French, Latin are good, too) or working in a bar but it'll be tough, there's not much work around. Chances are better when big trade fairs or conventions are in town, so apply at temp agencies. Hospitality and call centers are constantly hiring but the illegal workforce is keeping wages low.

Berlin has a growing media, modelling and film industry. For daily soaps, telenovelas and movies most companies are looking for extras with something specific. Apply at the bigger casting and acting agencies.

For English-language jobs, if might be worth checking out the classfied ads of the monthly magazine for English-speakers Exberliner (http://www.exberliner.com)

Buy

Shopping hours are until 8pm on Saturdays in most places. Sunday opening is still limited to a dozen weekends in one year, though if you have time to queue you can go to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten, Friedrichstrasse, Innsbrucker Platz or Ostbahnhof stations for the supermarkets there on Sundays - they are open every evening till about 10pm. Some bakeries and small food stores are open on Sundays in busier neighbourhoods. The city of Berlin intends to liberalise the shop opening hours by the end of 2006. It's not fully clear what will be the outcome so follow the media or stick to the current valid opening hours.

The May 2006 opening of the new Hauptbahnhof (central station) has introduced a whole new dimension to both weekday and Sunday shopping in Berlin: a small supermarket, fashion, gift and accessories shops with long opening hours, also on Sundays.

Ku'damm remains the main shopping street even now that the Wall has come down. KaDeWe (Kaufhaus Des Westens) at Wittenbergplatz is a must visit even if just for the vast food dept at the 6th floor. There you can find almost every kind of food from every part of the world, but the task is to find where it is, as the floor is indeed very large and the layout a bit confusing. You can find anything from a baked chicken to take away to a Champagne brand bar if you fancy an expensive aperitif. It's reputedly the biggest department store on Continental Europe and still has an old world charm, with very helpful and friendly staff. Be aware that on a Saturday this shop can be very busy with rich and arrogant customers plus a bunch of coach tourists, so it's best to go during the week if you can.

Friedrichstrasse is the upmarket shopping street in the former East Berlin with Galerie Lafayettes and the other Quartiers (204 to 207) as main areas to be impressed with wealthy shoppers. The renovated Galeria Kaufhof department stores in Alexanderplatz are also worth a visit. For some more affordable but still very fashionable shopping there is Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain with a lot of young designers opening shops. Constant changes make it hard to recommend a place, but shopping guides in the bi-weekly papers Tip or Zitty can help.

If are looking for books (also cheap) a nice choice is Jokers Restseller in Friedrischstrasse 148 (Tel 030 20 45 84 23) where you can find many interesting remainders. For souvenirs, have a look just in front of the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche and the shops near there. These shops sells almost the same item of others, but are quite cheap, but not all the staff speaks english. You can find also cheap postcards ( from 0,30€ while the average price for normal postcard is from 0,50 to 0,80 € ). For collectible stamps go to Goethe Strasse 2 (Ernst Reuter Plaz, U2), where you can find a Philatelic Post Office from the Deutsche Post. They generally speak English.

Flea markets

• Strasse des 17. Juni, in front of Ernst-Reuter-Haus, take the S-bahn to Tiergarten Station, Saturdays and Sundays 10.00 to 17.00
• Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg/Mitte, Sundays 10.00-17.00
• Am Kupfergraben/Museumsinsel, Saturdays and Sundays 10.00 -16.00
• Boxhagener Platz, Friedrichshain, Sundays 10.00-18.00
• Treptow, Eichenstraße 4 , Sundays

Fashion

Fashion from Berlin is getting popular. Most shops are located in Prenzlauer Berg. Best access is U-station Eberswalder Strasse.

• Flagshipstore, Oderberger Strasse 53, Prenzlauer Berg. Mon-Sat 12 - 20
• Hit In TV, Oderberger Strasse, near "Mauer Park". Tue-Fri 12 - 19, Sat 12 - 18.
• Berlinomat, Frankfurter Allee 89 (Friedrichshain, U/S Frankfurter Allee). Mon - Fri 11 – 20, Sat 10 – 18.

Record shops

Berlin is known for its vast number of record stores. Especially techno record shops can be found at many places in the centre (Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg, Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain). If you want to get the latest techno and house productions from around the world, Berlin is the place to shop.

• Rotation, Weinbergsweg 3, Mitte, [70]. Mon-Sat 12.00-20.00; offers vast range of Techno, House and Electronica; weekly news
• Hardwax, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a, Kreuzberg, [71]. Mon-Sat 12.00-20.00; THE techno record shop in Berlin; huge back catalogue and weekly news from around the world; also Reggae 7" and Drum&Bass

Eat

Eating out in Berlin is ridiculously cheap compared to any other Western European capital or indeed even most other German cities. The city is very multicultural and most cultures' cuisine is represented here somewhere, although it's often modified to suit German tastes.

For eating out, note that it is best to ask if credit cards are accepted before you sit down - it's not that common to accept credit cards in restaurants in some parts of the city. Most likely to be accepted are Visa or Mastercard, all other cards will be only accepted in some upmarket restaurants.

All prices must include VAT by law. Only in very upmarket restaurants a further service surcharge might apply.

Vegetarians can eat quite well with a little bit of research and menu modification despite it seeming like a meat eaters heaven with all the sausage stands. Kebap restaurants have a lovely selection of roasted veg and salad. The falafel they serve is an unusual processed entity but yummy and meat free.

As restaurants change quite fast, it is recommended to buy the "Speisekarte 2007" (Menu 2007) where about 1000 restaurant are listed with all kind of cuisines in all areas of Berlin.

One of the main tourist areas to eat is Hackescher Markt / Oranienburger Strasse. This area has dramatically changed from what it was even two years ago. Once full of squats and probably not entirely legal bars and restaurants it had some real character and was a great place to be. However, it is rapidly becoming developed and corporatized, even the most famous squat, the former Jewish-owned proto-shopping mall "Tacheles" has had a bit of a face lift. So while there is a now a good selection of restaurants and bars in the area, the food quality is not always worth the price. The "Assel" (Woodlouse) on Oranienburger Strasse furnished with DDR cast off furniture is still relatively authentic and worth a visit, especially on a warm summer night. Oranienburgerstrasse is also an area where prostitutes line up at night, but don't be put off by this. The area is actually very safe because several administrative and religious buildings are there, too.

For cheap and good food (especially from Turkey and the Middle East) you should try Kreuzberg and Neukölln with their abundance of Indian, Pizza and Döner Kebap restaurants (Berlin was the birthplace of the Döner Kebap about 30 years ago). Prices start from 1,50 € for a Kebap or Turkish-made pizza (usually good pizza if you are hungry, but different from the original Italian recipe and ingredients). If you are looking for a quick meal you could try getting off at Görlitzer Bahnhof on the U1 line, where in the range of a few steps you can find a good variety of cheap and good quality places to eat.

Kastanienallee is a good choice too but again not what it used to be since the developers moved in (much less exploited than Hackescher Markt, though). It's a popular area with artists, students and has a certain Bohemian charm. Try Imbiss W, at the corner of Zionskirchstr. and Kastanienallee, where they serve superb Indian-fusion food, mostly vegetarian, at the hands of artist-chef Gordon W. Further up the street is the Prater Garten, Berlin's oldest beer garden and an excellent place in the summer.

Waiters and tipping

The custom in Berlin is to tell the waiter how much you're paying (including the tip!) when you receive the bill - don't leave the money on the table. If there is confusion with the tip, remember to ask for your change, "Wechselgeld" (money back).

Normally a 5-10% tip is OK (or round up to the next Euro) but remember that even if waiters don't get paid much anywhere, in Europe they are not dependent on tips to make a living as they are in the U.S., and it is possible to live on one's hourly wage. Berlin is known for rude service, although it's not necessarily bad per se, just a little cold in some places. If the service has been good and friendly feel free to tip more (especially when they help you with the language!).

Restaurants

All restaurant recommendation are in the corresponding borough articles of

• Kreuzberg & Friedrichshain (young and independent student area with big turkish community in Kreuzberg)
• City West/Charlottenburg (heart of West Berlin with nice and good quality restaurants)
• Mitte (political and new center of East Berlin with upmarket restaurants)
• Schöneberg (city slickers and street cafe feeling)
• Pankow (buzzling Prenzelberg and its lively student scene)

Breakfast

It is very common to go out for breakfast. Here are some tips:

For children

• Charlottchen, Droysenstraße 1, tel. 030-324 47 17. Buffet breakfast and institution for parents and prepared for children of all ages, indoor play room!
• Strandbad Mitte, Kleine Hamburger Straße 16, tel. 030-24 62 89 63. Playground next to the restaurant and good breakfast.

Buffet breakfast

• Gottlob (see Berlin#Restaurants)
• Morgenland (see Berlin#Restaurants)
• Cafe Sarotti-Höfe, Mehringdamm 57, tel. 030-61 62 09 39. Located in a former chocolate factory with buffet for 5 Euros!,
• Operncafé, Unter den Linden 5, tel. 030- 20 26 83. Sundays a Jazz brunch with live music in rococo atmosphere (reservation strongly recommended), all other days nice buffet.
• Grüne Lampe, Uhlandstraße 51, tel. 030-88 71 93 93. Excellent Russian breakfast buffet.

Individual style

• Café Sur, Akazienstraße 7, tel. 030-782 04 39. Part of a deli shop and Mediterrian gourmet breakfast.
• Cream, Schlesische Straße 6, tel. 030-61 07 49 80. Urban coffee house culture with own breakfast creations linked to the film "Herr Lehmann" and own coffee creation!
• Tiki Heart, Wiener Straße 20, tel. 030-61 07 47 03. Innovative and creative Asian, Polynesian and South American breakfast.
• Telecafé, Panoramastraße 1a, tel. 030-242 33 33. Enjoy breakfast and city view right at the top of the Fernsehturm.
• Dachgartenrestaurant Käfer, Platz der Republik 1, tel. 030-22 62 99 0. Breakfast from 9-10:30 am at the top of the Germany's parliament.

In style

• Café im Literaturhaus, Fasanenstraße 23, tel. 030-882 54 14. Classical style, waiters in livreé, excellent food.
• Desbrosses, Potsdamer Platz 3, tel. 030-337 77 64 00. The Ritz Carlton imported a whole French brasserie which freshly bakes bread.
• Fischers Fritz, Charlottenstraße 49, tel. 030-2' 33 63 63. Royal style and offers Japanese breakfast in Regent hotel.

Drink

Pub crawling becomes very popular in Berlin and organised pub crawls are especially famous with backpackers. There are several tour companies but the best known Pub crawl for backpackers is organised by New Berlin Tours.

• At Warschauer Straße (which you can reach via S-Bahn and U-Bahn station Warschauer Straße) and more specifically Simon-Dach-Straße you can find a wide variety of bars, from sport bars to comfy waterpipe bars. It is common for locals to meet at Warschauer to go to a bar there.

• Cafe Einstein is one particular example of a home grown coffee chain which has nice staff, great coffee and is fairly priced. In particular, the Einstein on Unter den Linden is as far from "junk coffee" as it's possible to be.

• There are lots of Irish bars all over the city, as there are in all European cities. If you like off-the-shelf Irish bars or watching the football in English then you won't be disappointed, but in a city with new cool bars opening pretty much daily and a huge range to choose from, you'll find that these cater mostly to the Irish construction workers and Germans attracted by Irish music, which is often played in them. Famous is the Irish pub in the Europacenter at Tauenzien Strasse (prolongation of Ku'damm 250m opposite the KadeWE at Wittenbergplatz). In the basement of this skyscraper you will find a big Irish pub and a rowdy crowd on the weekend.

• The LuisenBrau next to Schloss Charlottenburg has excellent brewed beer. You can have either a helles (light) or a dunkles (dark). Although the beer is quite excellent, the atmosphere is quite touristy, and clearly not as antique as it strives to be.

• The Ostzone bar near the S-Bahn station "Hackescher Markt" is an Ostalgie themed bar with many relics from Communist-era East Berlin. It is meant to be a refuge for people who are nostalgic about memorabilia from the Communist-era.

• If you want to get some tap water in a bar ask for "Leitungswasser" (if you just say "water" (Wasser), you will receive mineral water), it is common if you drink coffee. They should not charge you for it but you should order some other drink as well...

Clubs

Stylish

• Delicious Doughnuts, Rosenthaler Strasse 9, 10119 Berlin Mitte, U-bahn Rosenthalerplatz. Very cozy venue with a relaxed atmosphere. Definitely non-pretentious with a diverse and friendly crowd. Remember to ring the door bell and wait for the door to be opened before you walk in. There is usually a small entry fee.
• 40 seconds, Potsdamer Straße 58, tel. 030-890 642 41, [72]. Posh club with dinner area and amazing view over the Potsdamer Platz
• Adagio, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1, direct on Potsdamer Platz. A place with chandeliers for the rich and famous.
• Rio, Chausseestrasse 106, [73]. New and already one of the best in electronic music - check opening times before you go if you are not an insider.
• Bungaluu, Invalidenstrasse 30, tel 030-809 690 77, [74]. Stylish club and restaurant (10 course dinner) in a former post office.

Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain

• SO36, Oranienstrasse 190, [75]. Legendary club whose roots are punk, nowadays plays different alternative mainstream concerts. Don't miss the GAYHANE, the Turkish gay party.
• Club der Visionäre, Am Flutgraben 1, [76]. Minimal techno, house and techno-house at this atmospheric venue by the water.
• Rosi's, Revalerstraße 29, [77]. Rosi's features grungy underground - the best club in town if you are into that. Nice grill outside with lots of chairs for the warm days, has one chill out floor and one main stage almost in front of a very nice bar. 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month: drum'n'bass, 2nd and 4th Saturday: house electro and on other days concerts and rock parties.
• Watergate, [78]. Great location with two floors directly at the Spree river. The regular Drum and Bass night is called Hardedged, usually on Fridays. Check the schedule for other nights. Take the U1 to Schlesisches Tor or the Tram 20 from Eberswalder Strasse to Warschauer Strasse (last stop) and then cross the bridge.
• Maria am Ostbahnhof, [79]. Used to be an underground techno club called Deli, they play softer music now but still a very cool location. Lots of live sets. Hosts Tresor im Exil parties. Go to Ostbahnhof with a train, then walk to Schillingbrücke (Map on the website)
• Geburtstagsklub, Am Friedrichshain 33. Best reggae party in town on Mondays, other days vary.
• Insel Berlin, Alt-Treptow 6, [80]. Three floors, music varies from reggae to techno.
• Berghain, [81]. Only Berlin could offer such a huge techno cathedral - the best new techno club in the world? A large venue with a gay majority. Be prepared for a tough door policy. Not for teenagers, no cameras allowed.

Schöneberg

• Goya, [82]. Former theatre turned into a club with excellent bar, 30+ crowd, music from salsa to house. Most nights have special themes. Now bankrupt, check homepage for development.
• KitKatClub, Bessemerstrasse 2/14, [83]. Some say that without the "KITTY" Berlin wouldn't be Berlin. Others think that it's one of the best night clubs in Europe because of its unique concept. A very famous address, a unique clubbing concept mixing techno/electro/trance music with sexual freedom. Be careful and open-minded, and respect the strict dresscode. Nonstop party from Saturday night to Sunday evening. From 2007 in a new location.
• Havanna, Hauptstraße 30, [84]. Largest latin music club in town (4 floors from RnB to Salsa/Merengue and Bacchata). Open on Wed, Fri and Sat.

Mitte

• WMF, Stralauer Strasse 58, [85]. Electronic music. U Klosterstrasse, S+U Jannowitzbrücke.
• Kinzo, [86]. Situated under the TV tower at Alexanderplatz.
• Sophienclub, Sophienstr. 6. Tuesdays is Britpop, Disco on Thursdays and Funk & Soul on Saturdays.
• Fate Club, Hochstr. 46. Techno, trance and house; houses an after hour (5am) gay and lesbian lounge.
• Russendisko, Torstrasse 60, tel 030-280 464 95. Every second Saturday in the Kaffe Burger performed by author Wladimir Kaminer live music (Polka).
• Club der polnischen Versager, Torstrasse 66, tel. 030-280 937 79, [87]. From Polish films to country music, everything to make our neighbours feel like home.
• White Trash, Schönhauser Allee 6-7, tel. 0179 473 26 39. Cowboy hats, beards and 70's style - if those are your things then you have a new home.
• Week-End, Am Alexanderplatz 5, [88]. During the day an office complex, from Thu-Sat from midnight onwards at the 12th floor amazing views over the city in classical club style for people under 40. Parties till the dawn.

Prenzlauer Berg

• Dunckerclub, Dunckerstr. 64. Alternative, Hardrock, Independent.
• Magnet, Greifswalder Str. 212/213, [89]. Alternative. Some indie concerts and club nights. Take care, there is also a FC Magnet Bar in Veteranenstrasse, which is a cool place, too.
• Icon, Cantianstrasse 15, [90]. DnB every Saturday, some Hip Hop and a monthly Ninja Tune night. Walking distance from Eberswalder Strasse Station.
• Dr Pong, Eberswalder Strasse 21. A typically Berlin style club where you can play table tennis and drink cheap beer, very friendly place.
• NBI, Schönhauser Allee 36, [91]. Nice small club, not really for dancing, with nice people and live sets.
• Bastard, Kastanienallee, next to Prater Beergarden.
• Knaack, Greifswalder Straße 224, [92]. Three floors with different music.
• Grüner und Roter Salon, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2. On weekends hiphop, electro, 80s and indie with freestyle DJs.
• H2O-Club, Dircksenstr./Ecke Karl-Liebknecht-Str. Mainly hiphop with a younger crowd. Excellent DJs.
• Lime Club, Dircksenstr. 105. For the "dark side" of music: morbid but comfy.

Bars

Berliners love to drink cocktails, and it's a main socialising point for young people. Many people like to meet their friends in a cocktail bar before clubbing. Prenzelberg (Eberswalder- & Danzigerstrasse, Kulturbrauerei), Kreuzberg (close to Görlitzer Park), Schöneberg (Bergmannstrasse) and Friedrichshain (Simon-Dach-Strasse) are the main areas. There aren't as many illegal bars as there was in the 90s but bars open and close faster than you can keep up with - check out the bar and cocktail guides in the bi-weekly magazines Tip or Zitty. Kneipen Suche can help you track down places when you know some names.

Some places worth checking out:

• Victoria Bar, Potsdamer Straße 102, tel. 030-25 75 99 77, [93]. Excellent bar with a huge variety of cocktails.
• Kulturbrauerei, [94]. Close to U-Station Eberswalder Strasse in a former brewery are located several bars. Most famous is the Soda Club with an excellent bar.
• Haifischbar, Arndtstr. 25, tel. 030-691 13 52, [95]. Bar with sushi and excellent cocktail and whiskey selection.
• Orient Lounge, Oranienstr. 13, tel. 030 - 69 56 67 62. Relaxing lounge with good drinks.
• Train at U-Bahn station Kleistpark and just opposite the headquarters of the public transport company is a bar in an old S-Bahn car.
• Coma, Detmolder Str. 61, near U-/S-Bahn station Bundesplatz. Made up with sand on the floor and two pool tables. XL-Cocktails will kick you faster than you would think.
• Newton Bar, Charlottenstr. 57 (direct at Gendarmenmarkt), tel. 030-20 61 29 90. Poshest bar in town and a must hang-out place for the beautiful, the famous and the rich. Excellent cigar and whiskey selection.
• Habermayer, Gärtnerstr. 6, tel. 030-29 77 18 87, [96]. Nice relaxing bar in Friedrichshain with laid back people.
• Reingold, Novalisstrasse 11, tel. 030 217 516 45. Lounge in a former locomotive construction hall (1930s style), mix of after work crowd and normal scene.
• Freischwimmer, Schlesischen Tor 2, tel 030-61 07 43 09. Bar directly located at the river on a ponton with good food and drinks, good for chilling.
• Cafe Moskau, Karl-Marx-Allee 34.
• Tabou Tiki Room, Maybachufer 39 cnr Nansenstrasse. Tuesday until Sunday from 8pm.

Sleep

After the end of the Cold War Berlin witnessed a construction boom of hotels and offices. Today there are lots of hotels which results in comparatively cheap prices even in the 5 star category. If you travel over the weekend most hotels offer substantial discounts. In the week you still get discounts but prices will not be as low as on weekends. Best place to check out hotel rates is the German Internet hotel agency HRS which offers hotels and hostels for all budgets.

• Berlin Hotel Maps Easy-to-use map to find Berlin Hotels

Budget

• Citystay Hostel Berlin-Mitte, Rosenstraße 16, tel. +49 30 2362 4031, fax +49 30 2790 7170, info@citystay.de, [97]. Citystay is THE modern city hostel, opened in April 2005. Unconventional ambience and low prices. Located in the heart of (downtown) Berlin, just minutes on foot from all the diverse culture and nightlife that the city has to offer. Citystay is the perfect place for all backpackers, individuals and families.

• Alcatraz Backpacker Hostel, Schönhauser Allee 133a (U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.), tel. +49 30 4849 6815, fax +49 30 4849 68 17, [98]. Double Rooms start at €21 per person, Dormitory starts at €12, Centrally located in Prenzlauer Berg, the most interesting district with a lot of bars, clubs, stores and cafes. Really good atmosphere!

• Amstel House Berlin, Waldenserstr. 31, tel. +49 30 395 4072, info@amstelhouse.de, [99]. A newly refurbished guest house a art nouveau style building. Four-bedded dorms from €15/person/night. Single and twin rooms en-suite also available. 7 mins. away from the central station, 15 mins. from Tegel airport, 2 stops with the U-Bahn from the Zoo station.

• Jugendgästehaus Berlin International, Kluckstr. 3, tel. +49 30 261 1097, service@jugendherberge.de, [100]. Four-bed rooms start at 21 € (depending on age), ten-person-dormitories start at €15, all overnights including breakfast and bedsheets. Central location near Potsdam Square thus quiet surrounding! HI-Hostel-membership required, international guests may also pay €3.10 extra for an overnight membership.

• BaxPax Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Straße 104, tel. +49 30 6951 8322, [101]. This hostel is supercentral located in an area that boasts excellent nightlife.

• A&O, Boxhagener Str. 73 (S-Bahn: Ostkreuz), tel. 297 7810, fax 2900 7366, hostel@web.de, [102]. Double Rooms start at €24 per person, Sleeping hall starts at €10.

• Helter Skelter Hostel Berlin (former Clubhouse Hostel), Kalkscheunenstr. 4-5 (U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor, S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse), tel. 280 44 997, fax 290 44 717, e-mail: info@helterskelterhostel.com, [103]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €46/room, big dorms start at €13.

• Heart of Gold Hostel Berlin, Johannisstr. 11 (U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor, S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse/Oranienburger Straße), tel. 2900 3300, fax 290 44 717, e-mail: bridge@heartofgold-hostel.de, [104]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €48/room, big dorms start at €13.

• Corner, Driesener Str. 17 (U-/S-Bahn: Schönhauser Allee), tel. 4373 4353, fax 4373 4206, corner-hostel@t-online.de, [105]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €20 per person,Sleeping hall starts at €14.

• Mitte's Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chausseestr 102, tel. +49 30 2839 0965, [106]. The first Backpacker Hostel in Germany since 1994. If you are looking for an central and original backpacker Hostel, here's your place. Dorms from 14 Euros.

• Die Fabrik, Schlesische Str. 18 (U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor), tel. 611 7116, Fax 618 2974, info@diefabrik.com, [107]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €49/room, Sleeping hall starts at €18.

• Generator, Storkower Str. 160 (S-Bahn: Landsberger Allee), tel. 417 240 0, fax 417 240 80, hello@generatorhotels.com, [108]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €23 per person, Sleeping hall starts at €10.

• Jet Pak, Pücklerstr. 54 (Bus X 10), tel. 832 5011, fax 832 279 05, hostel@jetpak.de, [109]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €19, Sleeping hall starts at €12 per person.

• Meininger 10, Meininger Straße 10 (U-Bahn: Bayerischer Platz), tel. 7871 7414, fax 7871 7412, welcome@meiningerhostels.de, [110]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €23 per person, Sleeping hall starts at €12.50. The staff is very kind and they speak english very (also a bit of french). Before placing a reservation ask for their linen and towel changing policy - indeed it looks like you will have one single towel for your whole stay, and the same applies for bedlinen. Moreover ask carefully for the kind of bathroom facilities your room has: only sink; sink and water closet; sink, water closet and shower. Consider as a plus for this place you can have an "all you can eat" breakfast included in the price, but remember taking away food is strictly forbidden. Also Meininger 12, Hallesches Ufer 30, 10963 Berlin (Kreuzberg) is part of this hostel chain.

• Odyssee, Grünberger Str. 23 (U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor), tel. 2900 0081, fax 2900 3311, odyssee@globetrotterhostel.de, [111]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €45/room, Mehrbett ab €13, . Also Sunflower, Helsingforser Str. 17, 12243 Berlin (Friedrichshain) is part of this hostel chain.

• Pegasus, Straße der Pariser Kommune 35 (U-Bahn: Weberwiese), tel. 2935 1810, fax 2935 1166, hostel@pegasushostel.de, [112]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €19 per person, Sleeping hall starts at €13.

• The Circus, Weinbergsweg 1a (U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz), tel. 2839 1433, fax 2839 1484, info@circus-berlin.de, [113]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €21 per person, Sleeping hall starts at €13. Also Circus, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 39, 10178 Berlin (Mitte) is part of this hostel chain.

• Transit Loft, Immanuelkirchstr. 14 (U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz), tel. 4849 3773, fax 4405 1074, loft@hotel-transit.de, [114]. 2-Bed Rooms start at €71.50/room, Sleeping hall starts at €15 per person. Also Transit, Hagelberger Str. 53-54. 10965 Berlin (Kreuzberg) is part of this hostel chain.

• Blockhaus-Rehbrücke, Thomas-Mann-Str. 19, tel. 033200-81413, NorbertAlbrecht@blockhaus-rehbruecke.de, [115]. Your fully equipped holiday-apartment with own kitchen situated between Berlin and Potsdam for 2 (€49) up to 4 persons (€69). Travellers are welcome to wash their laundry in the washing machine.

• Gasteiner Hof, Gasteiner Str. 8, tel. +49 30 8620 170, [116]. Rooms from €20, breakfast included. The staff are friendly and helpful, and the breakfasts are good. Some rooms have shared bathrooms, which can be quite cold at night.

Mid range

• NH Berlin City West, Bundesallee 36/37, tel. +49 30 86 00 40, [117]. Good location in the City West, has lots of rooms.
• Ramada Plaza Berlin, Prager Strasse 12, tel. +49 30 236 2500, [118]. Located in inner city living area with own boarding house.
• City Guesthouse Pension Berlin, Gleimstrasse 24, tel. +49 30 4480792, [119]. Located centrally near the Alexander Place in Berlin Prenzlauer Berg, all guest rooms (en suite) are equipped to a consistently high standard. Rooms from 32,50€.

Splurge

• Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, tel. +49 30 2261-0, fax +49 30 2261-2222, [120]. Managed by the Kempinski chain, this hotel is one of the best and most expensive hotels in Germany. The Adlon is their flagship hotel in Berlin (the place where Michael Jackson almost dropped his baby out of the window) and try to establish it as the number 1 address in town.
• InterContinental Berlin Hotel, [121]. Located in the heart of the government quarter and host to most visiting presidents, close to the historical center and just a few steps away from the renowned shopping district of Kurfürstendamm. Excellent restaurant and benchmark for all hotels in town.
• Hyatt, [122]. Located direct at the Potsdamer Platz within walking distance to major attractions. One of the best business hotels in town. During the Berlinale film festival the hotel to stay because all locations are in walking distance.
• The Regent, [123]. Former Four Seasons hotel now managed by Radisson SAS. Located next to Gendarmenmarkt and in the heart of the City East.
• Maritim pro arte, [124]. Good location at the corner of Friedrichstrasse und Unter den Linden. One of the best breakfasts and popular with wealthy tourists. Has a good spa and nice pool. Internet and discounted rates start from 110 Euro per night.
• Swissotel, [125]. Brand new and stylish design hotel direct at the Ku'Damm. Just a step away from anything in the City West and offers good weekend rates.

Apartments

Another great solution is to rent an apartment. Many companies, including Old Town Apartments [126], offer high quality apartments in various locations around Berlin. These are great for families, as a four person apartment will cost 65-100€ - it may be cheaper than a hostel, and is a lot cosier. Be sure to check the map when reserving an apartment, some of them are not in the city center.

If you like to choose the bigest portal vor Apartments in Berlin [127] MOWITANIA is ok.

Talk

Most people under 40 in Berlin are able to speak English in a varying degree of fluency, but it might not be as widely spoken as you might expect, so a few key German phrases are worth having, especially in the suburbs and generally in non touristic places.

Some people are afraid of speaking English due to their limited experience in talking to foreigners. So a lot of people pretend not to speak English but might understand your intention if you explain your desire with some gestures. Basic French and Russian is partly spoken because French in the West Berlin and Russian in East Berlin were taught in schools.

There are some words in Berlin that differ from regular German, especially in the former East Berlin the language preserved a certain level of dialect.

Schrippe: Roll

Stulle: Sandwich

Broiler: grilled chicken

Pfannkuchen: doughnut (without a hole in the middle but with filling)

Contact

In all parts of the city you will find internet cafes and telephone shops where you can call with low fares. Shop around for the telephone shops because most have a focus region in the world.

A lot of bars, restaurants and cafes offer free W-Lan for their guests. The mobile network covers although the U- und S-Bahn but all is on GSM. So if you are a visitor from a non-GSM standard country (eg. North America) you will need a triband mobile.

There is a free wireless network covering parts of Berlin, but it requires special software on your computer. For more information and maps of Berlin with coverage, see http://www.olsrexperiment.de/

Stay safe

Berlin is a safe place compared to most other cities of similar size but it has its share of problems as well. No specific rules apply with the exception of public transportation and tourist areas where pickpockets are a problem. Watch your bags during rush hours and at larger train stations. No borough of Berlin would be much of a comparison to American "ghettos" in terms of crime, though.

Since the 1980s there have been localized riots on Labour Day (1st of May). These normally take place in Kreuzberg