Alice Springs embodies the hardy outback of the Northern Territory's Red Centre, and is a travel hub for sights and hikes in the region, such as Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock), Kata Tjuta (formerly known as the Olgas) and Kings Canyon. Since the start of the tourist boom in the early eighties, the population has substantially grown to about 24,000. Water is a rare source in this desert area so water restrictions are a common thing.

Get in

By plane

There is an airport in Alice Springs and Qantas is doing most of the flights and connects Alice with Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Cairns and Perth. There is a flying shuttle to Uluru but Uluru has an airport (Yulara) too, so if you're just flying in to see the rock, you don't have to stop off at Alice.

By train

The Ghan is as infamous as the Orient Express, a long train ride over a large land area, and got even longer in 2004 with an extension right through to Darwin. Don't expect complete luxury on the Ghan, however. The rolling stock is rather dated, and while adequate, it was purchased used, and has not been highly refurbished.

By car

The Stuart Highway from Adelaide is well-maintained and goes right through Coober Pedy, an underground city famous also for being the opal capital of the world (and therefore well worth stopping off for a visit on the way). It continues through Tennant Creek and Katherine all the way up to Darwin.

See

Alice Springs has quite a few interesting things to see.

• Wildlife Park located outside of town is truly memorable in its examples of local flora and fauna. They give a number of interesting lectures, such as aboriginal use of local plants for food.
• Royal Flying Doctor Service [1] with School of the Air
• Alice Springs Telegraph Station
• Reptile Center
• Aviation Museum
• Alice Springs Markets, Todd Mall, 08 8952 9299. Fresh foods, jewelry, other merchandise.

Drink

Probably the most popular joint for a beer is the Bojangles. Every night people coming or leaving for a tour have some fun here. At the weekend it can get a little bit rowdy.

Todd Street is the main street (partly pedestrian only). You will find a couple of options here to get drunk.

Sleep

• Pioneer YHA is convenient located near Todd St in a former cinema. Clean, has a pool but no aircon in the rooms, T:(08) 8952 8855

Get out

You've got to see Uluru and Kata Tjuta (the two most prominent features of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park), Watarrka National Park with Kings Canyon and Coober Pedy. There is plenty to see in this area, and if you've headed out this far, you probably enjoy a good 4WD and hike.